What do you prefer for sandpaper when sanding on the lathe? Do you get sheets or rolls? Is there a good place on Amazon to get an assortment of grits? Any other good advice before I buy?
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Sandpaper question
- Thread starter Tom Gibbons
- Start date
Dave Landers
Beta Tester
You're going to get a bunch of valid opinions. My contribution:
For power (or inertia) sanding, I prefer the Mirka gold disks from turningwood.com. Good sandpaper, and each disk is marked with the grit, so they don't get mixed up if I ... um... mix them up. I use his orange interface pads on a set of Roloc mandrels from woodturnerswonders.com (trying this out vs swapping sandpaper on a single mandrel to save velcro).
For non-power, I either use those disks on some backing like old mouse pad. I also like the Color Grit rolls from Craft Supplies - easy to rip off a bit the size you need, and the colors keep the grits separated.
For power (or inertia) sanding, I prefer the Mirka gold disks from turningwood.com. Good sandpaper, and each disk is marked with the grit, so they don't get mixed up if I ... um... mix them up. I use his orange interface pads on a set of Roloc mandrels from woodturnerswonders.com (trying this out vs swapping sandpaper on a single mandrel to save velcro).
For non-power, I either use those disks on some backing like old mouse pad. I also like the Color Grit rolls from Craft Supplies - easy to rip off a bit the size you need, and the colors keep the grits separated.
Like Dave I use Mirka Gold from Turning Wood as my Velcro and please don't forget to get plenty of the interface pads as well as the foam pads. I use the foam on 220 and up. Have tried some others and they just don't cut as well for me.
As to other I prefer sheets of Norton 3X but it is getting kinda costly. I get boxes of 50 to cut cost . I cut into quarters and fold in thirds. To not confuse the grits I number the ones in use . As to using one side before another I use a dash. no dash is side 1, - is side 2 and = is side 3.It is suggested to use the same paper thru all the grits as the use of assorted ones may leave an uneven scratch pattern.
As to other I prefer sheets of Norton 3X but it is getting kinda costly. I get boxes of 50 to cut cost . I cut into quarters and fold in thirds. To not confuse the grits I number the ones in use . As to using one side before another I use a dash. no dash is side 1, - is side 2 and = is side 3.It is suggested to use the same paper thru all the grits as the use of assorted ones may leave an uneven scratch pattern.
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I also recommend Steve Worcester at turningwood.com. I like Mirka Abranet sanding mesh. You can get it in either rolls, sheets, and disks.
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The abranet velcro backed rolls are terrific. Cut into squares they can be used like a 3” disc.
Cut in lengths great for sanding spheres.
Also abranet is the best for sanding wet wood if that needs to be done.
That's for sure, Dave......
For myself, I'm using sheet sandpaper from Japan called Finkat. I use this on bowl exteriors. (note: There is no power sanding on my bowl exteriors.
For bowl interiors, I'm using Merit powerlock discs for power sanding, and transition to the Finkat paper at 150gt.
-o-
Blue Flex discs from Vinces WoodnWonders were all the rage in the on line woodturning community when I was starting out. I still use them for most power sanding.
Abranet works well on wet wood; when it gets clogged with wet sanding dust, blow air through it and it's ready to go again. Coarse grits last a long time. Higher grits (220+) seem to wear out quickly.
I use Norton 3X (now called ProSand) for hand sanding up to 400 grit and Mirka Gold for the higher grits. I'm happy with both. I cut each sheet into 8 sections using a utility knife and hold a small piece of router pad behind the paper when using it. Lee Valley has a great sale on the Norton about once per year, 20 packs of 5 different grits for a great price. USPaintSupply.com has good prices too and I think free shipping if you buy enough.
Both the Blue Flex discs and the cut up Norton paper are insufficiently labeled. I check and write the grit on the back of the unmarked ones using a sharpie marker.
Lots of people like the RocLoc quick change discs. One thing to keep in mind is that they can only be used in one direction of rotation. If you spin them the opposite direction, they will come off of the sanding mandrel; that's how they are designed. I like to run my sander in both forward and reverse directions, depending on what I'm doing. So RocLoc doesn't work for me.
Abranet works well on wet wood; when it gets clogged with wet sanding dust, blow air through it and it's ready to go again. Coarse grits last a long time. Higher grits (220+) seem to wear out quickly.
I use Norton 3X (now called ProSand) for hand sanding up to 400 grit and Mirka Gold for the higher grits. I'm happy with both. I cut each sheet into 8 sections using a utility knife and hold a small piece of router pad behind the paper when using it. Lee Valley has a great sale on the Norton about once per year, 20 packs of 5 different grits for a great price. USPaintSupply.com has good prices too and I think free shipping if you buy enough.
Both the Blue Flex discs and the cut up Norton paper are insufficiently labeled. I check and write the grit on the back of the unmarked ones using a sharpie marker.
Lots of people like the RocLoc quick change discs. One thing to keep in mind is that they can only be used in one direction of rotation. If you spin them the opposite direction, they will come off of the sanding mandrel; that's how they are designed. I like to run my sander in both forward and reverse directions, depending on what I'm doing. So RocLoc doesn't work for me.
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Dave Landers
Beta Tester
I avoided using them for a long time because of this. But then I noticed that I dropped into a habit of changing the lathe direction but not the drill. So I'm giving them a try to see if they save velcro.
I power sand all my bowls. For best value, I like the blue discs from Vince. I can get several bowls out of each disc, and they cut very fast. I have tried just about everything out there. The Abranet works fine, I guess. For me, the coarser grits cut far slower than the standard discs, up to about 180 or 220, then they cut about the same. One I don't have, and can't fine are the Cubitron discs from 3M. Mike Mahoney told me he gets the discs oversized, but I never got the source from him. He commented that it really does last '5 times longer' than other abrasives. Wish I could find belts and strips for my drum sander! I do prefer the hook and loop, particularly with Vince's discs since they are good for a couple of bowls, while PSA is only good till you take it off. For sanding, slow speed cuts faster than high speed. I keep my drill trigger at about half speed. This also greatly extends the life of my drills. I still have lots of sheets of Norton abrasives that they don't make any more. I don't hand sand much....
robo hippy
robo hippy
I do no power sanding--all hand held, and mostly with the lathe motor off. I like the 3" mesh disks. Easy to knock or blow out the dust, velcro loop backing is comfy to hold, and just the right size for my 3 fingers. The WW knock off comes in p grits 60 to 3000.
I also use 1.5" rolls from lingspor.
I also use 1.5" rolls from lingspor.
Tom Gall
TOTW Team
I totally agree. Absolutely necessary to run in reverse for some situations. I always power sand on or below center for comfort and safety. Reverse is especially necessary when power sanding the bowl exterior near the foot (headstock) or even the entire exterior if the shape/design allows. That being said, I agree with Odie ... I mostly hand sand the exterior and only power sand the interior when necessary.
For power sanding with a pneumatic sander, I like the Mirka gold discs from Turningwood.com. Otherwise, I'm a fan of Klingspor J-flex cloth-backed aluminum oxide. Klingspor is a German company that has been making abrasives for over 100 years. When living in NC I was able to go to one of their few retail stores in the US and buy scraps by the pound, which was dirt cheap. Now that we live in Oregon I buy the 3" Gold rolls online.
I use the flex discs from Vince's for power sanding and Norton paper cut into strips for spindle work and spot sanding. For hand sanding inside bowls, I've started using Abranet with good results. That being said, I don't have a lot of experience with many products and cant tell you that they're better or worse than much else. I did try some Industrial Abrasives Rhynalox sheets and they are WAY too stiff for use on turned projects.
I take colored markers and run two squiggly lines down the back of paper sheets so when I cut or tear them into bite sized pieces and the grit number is gone, I still know what I've got. Each grit gets its own color. Works slick and takes just a few seconds to to a half dozen sheets.
I take colored markers and run two squiggly lines down the back of paper sheets so when I cut or tear them into bite sized pieces and the grit number is gone, I still know what I've got. Each grit gets its own color. Works slick and takes just a few seconds to to a half dozen sheets.
I use the Blue Discs from Vince for both my faceplate and spindle work. I know it is unusual to use discs for spindle work, but the size and cost is worth it...
Power sanding - vince’s blue or green oversized discs (2-3/8 for me), his interface pads, mandrels
Hand - 3M 216U Fre-Cut Gold, sleeves of 50 sheets, cut into sections with paper cutter
As Ellsworth says, “cool sanding”, low lathe rpm, low drill rpm- heat is the enemy of the media and the foam holder
Hand - 3M 216U Fre-Cut Gold, sleeves of 50 sheets, cut into sections with paper cutter
As Ellsworth says, “cool sanding”, low lathe rpm, low drill rpm- heat is the enemy of the media and the foam holder
I have been using the Noritake ultra dot for several years with good success
I too have mostly used various products from Steve at turningwood.com, Mirka Gold, Abranet, etc., and gotten great products and great service. But I just got a 3" mandrel, pads and all the disk grits from https://www.thesandingglove.com/Norton-Dry-Ice-Ceramic-Discs.asp for sanding the bigger bowls I'm doing now, and I am really loving the Norton Dry Ice disks I got. They give a consistent cut, and just last and last. When it loads up a little (which it is very slow to load up, even when wet sanding, I just hit it with the eraser stick, and keep right on sanding. I am seriously thinking of using Dry Ice exclusively when I use up my other sanding products. Anybody else try it?
To enable me to use pieces of sand paper in order I write the date on the back of the sandpaper
This allows me to use the older used piecs of sand paper first
This allows me to use the older used piecs of sand paper first
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
They don't import that product into the US
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
send me your address and I will send you a sample of Mirka Galaxy
Done, and thanks!
just ordered and thanks for the tip.
It seems to me that people are generally happy with the sanding material they are using, but, ironically, also always looking for something better. Since the forum members use a very wide array of abrasives to get good results, we really need to hire Project Farm to do a Consumer Reports style comparison of the most popular options. Let's settle this once and for all! Til next year, any way.
Sounds about right. I'll bet most of you know the saying about opinions and a certain body part.
Seems like it applies to everything I've ever been involved with: guitar playing, smoking barbecue, straight razor honing, flyfishing, etc. So with this issue put to rest, can we now talk about bowl gouge grinds? 
Here's a systematic test of 5" abrasive discs. sandpaper test Skip to results from about 12:30 to 16:00 in. Doesn't include a lot of options mentioned here for turning like Vince's 2" & 3" discs but worth considering. Makes 3M Cubitron look pretty good.
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Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
(sandpaper test) His methodology was pretty solid, but I'm not sure the end results were actually correct. Some of the products may be using a different grading system for the grit # (CAMI vs FEPA) so 120 grit in CAMI (US grading) is not the same as 120 in FEPA (Euro grading) and I can't confirm that was done. When I saw this, we sent out a bunch of Cubitraon (xtract?) samples and tested a lot in house. In really hard materials, it worked great, but wasn't that stellar and loaded up more than I expected on oilyier woods and cutting film finishes (like sanding down lacquer). It seemed to tear easier than you would think, but that was also in 2" or 3". It is a good product though as are several in that test.
Distinguishing CAMI from FEPA (p grits) used to be a pet peeve, but I've given up. I realized that FEPA is overwhelming the most commonly sold. In fact I would find it difficult to buy CAMI grit products without resorting to a special order/vendor. Unless someone specifies otherwise, I assume it's a p grit.
I would like to find a source for the cubitron discs from 3M. Was chatting with Mike Mahoney at the Oregon Woodturning Symposium, and he said they were available, but not where. Apparently, they do outlast others by several times. Other than that, I use the blue discs from Vince. Firm pad for grits up to 180 or 220, medium pad up to 400, and if I go over that, which is almost never, I go to a soft pad. Love the firm pads from Vince with the 1/4 round profile on the edge. Perfect for sanding out the transition area.
robo hippy
robo hippy
I've used Cubitron a bit and like it, but it's hard to quantify performance w/o a test like the one I linked to and that may not test some of the characteristics we are interested in. I agree it is not made for sanding finishes. I have used Abranet fairly successfully for that as it doesn't load so much.
Steve-I got the 2 and 3" sample packs of Mirka Galaxy. I'm actually going to go try this now, as today is a sanding day! Thank you so much!! I will report back. If this is good as Norton Dry Ice, I will truly be amazed.
Just got my dry ice discs and will do some hated sanding this week.
When I get out a new sheet of sandpaper to use I color code it with a series of stripes in various color. 100 grit has no color, 120- black, 150 green, 180 red, 220 blue. Then I cut the strip to the size I want and I will always, well almost always, what grit I have there in the pile.
Bought on your recommendation. They cut really well and are excellent. I’m happy. Thanks.
Agreed, Alan. I also love how long they last while resisting loading, and don't seem to "dig-in" as much as some other brands. That said, they appear to top out at 400 grit. I am in the process of sanding a really stunning piece of curly ambrosia maple that I'm turning into a shallow bowl/platter. So yesterday for the bottom, I used Dry Ice up to 400, and then switched to the Mirka Galaxy disks Steve sent me from 600 up to 1500 grit. Also a very impressive abrasive that gave me a near-flawless 1500-grit finish. I plan to do the same for the interior today. Thanks again, Steve! I will definitely use the Mirka Galaxy disks when I want to "go for it" to a higher polish.
I power sand. I buy these from Woodturners Wonders. They are 3-3/8” which works great for sanding inside of bowls. They stay cleaner and last longer than others I tried and for around 14 cents each you can’t go wrong. A friend of mine uses them now instead of the Nortons he used to use. The other picture didn’t work. The sanding disc I use now are green and called smoother finisher sanding discs.
One mistake I have made is I have 2 inch and 3 inch roloc pads for quick change but I bought one brand of sandpaper for the 2 inch and a different brand for the 3 inch and I think the grits don't match really well even though they both say 120 or 320 or whatever. I can't switch back and forth between sizes because of this.
One thing to check is that two sandpapers use the same grit scale: FEPA vs. CAMI. But I think there can still be differences.
The 2 inch is Mirka galaxy and the 3 inch is whatever blue that vinceswoodnwonders sells. They both work pretty well, I just can't jump between them if I run into a spot where I want to change the size. World problem I know......
I just need to pick one good overall brand and stick to it. One piece of sandpaper away from greatness? Isn't that what someone said about tools?
Using Klingspor bargain sheet stock for initial sanding followed by Vinces' .
bargain box https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/BB00095. still have some years in.
bargain box https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/BB00095. still have some years in.
I think they cross at 220 or so.