Saw Blade Type

[teraric]

Hey,

I just have some quick questions about what type of sawblade to use when making angled cuts for segmented work. I use a miter saw for most of my cuts and have been trying to get a clean 'nick free' result.

I currently have a 24 tooth blade, which I understand is useless for what I need. In light of this, I was just given an expensive 10" 40 tooth carbide tipped miter blade, but I'm not sure if I still need more teeth. Do you think I should go into the 60-90 range?

Besides that, does anyone have other tips for getting a clean cut that will make for tighter joints?

Thanks,
Jess

 

[RSetina]

Forest makes a blade for the miter saw that works great for me. The ends are so smooth you think they were sanded. The blades are expensive but I wont buy any other blade from another compnay after using them. I bought one for my compound miter saw and my Shopsmith. $218 but I don't think you can buy a better blade.

I attended a Shopsmith class and the instructor asked the other class members if any of them used Forest blades. Everyone who used them swore by them and had not needed to sharpen them after over a year of use. I can now see why. I bought mine at a woodworking show at a discount from a vendor. I was sold when he cut a paper thin piece of wood from the end grain of oak and maple that were so smooth ....incredible I thought. So I bought them.

 

[spinsdawood]

I use Forest blades on my 12" Dewalt compound miter and 10" table saw. Have used Dewalt, CMT, Freud and Delta blades. The Forst blades are so superior it isn't even close.
Jim

 

[John Trant]

Try a "zero clearance" backer board

In addition to the proper blade. I suggest installing a board across the back (with screws) and bottom (with double stick tape) of your saw so that you can create a "zero clearance insert" like for your table saw. Not only does it stop chip out, it stops the errant cut-off from being deflected by the blade.

John

 

[RSetina]

In addition to the proper blade. I suggest installing a board across the back (with screws) and bottom (with double stick tape) of your saw so that you can create a "zero clearance insert" like for your table saw. Not only does it stop chip out, it stops the errant cut-off from being deflected by the blade.

John

I never thought of dong this. A very good idea. I am building a cradle for my neice who's having a baby in Oct or Nov. I will be using the miter saw allot in the next few days. This addition with the Forest blades will make the work turn out great. Thanks for the idea.