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sharpening a radius edge skew

Joined
May 28, 2004
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I'm having a devil of a time sharpening a Alan Lacer's skew with the radius edge. I have the wolverine system with the flat platform and the skew attachment,
a 1100 rpm grinder with norton 3X K wheels. The ground edge is ugly with many facets. I have been using the platform and my index finger as a pivot.
I would appreciate any help that you may give me. Thanks Peter
 
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Dec 15, 2006
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Joined
Dec 31, 2006
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his video is a big help. also, i did a lot of practice on a cheap skew. i used my wolverine skew attachment once. makes a dandy paperweight.
 

john lucas

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That's only one of the reasons I don't like a curved edge skew. I find the straight edge so much easier to sharpen and don't see any advantage to the cuved edge, at least for the way I turn.
 
Joined
May 30, 2004
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prairie village. kansas
veritas...leevalley catalog pp58 has a grinder attachment for curved skew.not necessarily lacer curve. i use it with the wolverine flat rest by drilling one hole for the attachment. curved skews make good negative rake scrapers.!!!
 
Joined
Aug 17, 2004
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East Machias, ME
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www.almather.com
I sharpen mine on a Tormek, their jig works well for this application. However, it might be a bit pricey just for one application.

I reground my skews to a curve a long time ago. I have wondered once in a while if there really was an advantage. A while ago I had an opportunity to teach a class emphasising the use of the skew. The class was provided straight skews. I found that I like the curved one much better. One example: in turning a spinning top, with the point towards the tail-stock, the straight skew does not provide an angle to smooth the handle as one gets to the finished shape, one has to, almost, use the whole edge; however, with a curved edge one can easily used but a small part of the curve. In my opinion the curve opens up a lot of possibilities for versatility.

By the way, it is very possible to, in this example, to start a cut to smooth the handle of the top with the long point and continue the cut all the way to the short point. The key is to always support the part of the tool with which one is cutting.

I've developed three rules for making a cut with the skew, beyond the basic: tool rest, bevel, lift handle to cut. First think through the specific cut, even stopping the lathe, locking the spindle lock and 'walking' yourself through the cut to make sure you have all the right handle movements. Sometimes as mentioned in this thread and the other active skew thread, they can be complicated. Second, use a slow lathe speed when making the cut. There are several reasons for this. Catches are usually less exciting at slow speeds. The cut can be watched and thought about as it is being made. And a third rule is, somewhat related to the second, don't overfeed your tool into the wood. This is like trying to push a pieces of wood too fast past a router bit, through a saw, a jointer, etc. I think we think just because we have the rpm's cranked up we can move through the cut with lightening speed. A sharp tool should smoothly advance through the cut without a lot of pushing. Make the cut slowly and smoothly. Oh, and lots of practice is encouraged.

I suspect the comment on the lower 25% is in reference to, closest to, the point that one is using. That is a good, but maybe conservative, rule to use a starting guide. in my opinion.

Al
 
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Nov 27, 2004
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Ephrata, Pa
Hi Peter,
You have the right idea, but the platform angle may be wrong. Try coloring the bevel of the skew with a black marker. When you put the skew to the wheel it will grind away some of the black, you need to adjust the platform up or down untill it is correct. You want to be grinding on the center of the bevel. It will also depend on the size of the wheel. A lot tools are preground on an 8 or 10 inch wheel, if your using a 6" wheel it will never match the factory grind and you will need to reshape it.
Hope this helps, Jim
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2007
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Location
San Jose, CA
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web.hypersurf.com
I'm having a devil of a time sharpening a Alan Lacer's skew with the radius edge. I have the wolverine system with the flat platform and the skew attachment,
a 1100 rpm grinder with norton 3X K wheels. The ground edge is ugly with many facets. I have been using the platform and my index finger as a pivot.
I would appreciate any help that you may give me. Thanks Peter

Peter Pipe put a curve on one of my straight skews using a 100 grit paper on a plate on his lathe. Rub the bevel and then rotate it slightly, spendng a little more time towards the heel point and a little less time on the long point.
Flip the tool over and repeat on the other side. When I got home I did the same sort of thing on the side of a Tormek wheel. Worked fine and I use my 1/2" and3/4" curved skews a LOT - almost exclusivlely. The curve took the
skew from my most feared to most favorite. I don't worry about getting the two bevels perfectly symetric and don't worry if one or both bevels aren't flat but I don't want any facets.

Get it close to what works for you and adapt as you go. Isn't really all that hard to do.
 
Joined
May 7, 2004
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American Woodworker

I Think in March 2007 had a nice article by Allan with fine pictures on how to grind and sharpen a skew to his taste
 
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Jan 23, 2007
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Cool , thanks everyone for their input, makes me want to leave work and go home and regrind my 3/4" skew to a curve....and not come back till next week.
 
Joined
Nov 25, 2006
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I put a really good curve on my skew with a version of the wolverine. Funny, you have to tell it where to grind what.
I also have a leather pad on the handwheel side of my lathe with rouge on it. I polish out the edge often during use. Works as good as honing and it's sweet.
 
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