Signing your work

[Zach LaPerriere]

Thanks for the thoughts on the beeswax. I suspect you all are probably right.

I'll try my next batch of bowls with straight Danish Oil. I prefer it, but I did the last big round of bowls with the T&T General finish just to see how it faired.

 

[Charlie Knighton]

As Joe says earlier, I NEVER leave a totally flat bottom but a 1/4 inch ring foot and concave bottom. I have done that for years and never had a problem.

It is mostly flat but cupped very very slightly......

 

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Of course there is the other thing on how is the piece set to have the finish cure, most likely on its foot, and that way it will take forever to cure, as the Air/Oxygen can not get at it.

My pieces, and I do only use the Polymerized Tung Oil as the finish, are set on pencils or thin dowels to make sure the oxygen can get to it, it will cure in less than a day.

Then the “Danish Oil” is what ????, looking at the MSDS sheets and I get this, BTW it seems Watco is Minwax or the other way around.


Then the ingredients that are mostly mineral spirits and other volatiles, at a rate of 60% + 5% + 5% + 5% for a total of 75%


And then the other products, Raw Linseed oil, vegetable oil, Resin and Gilsonite (Tar ?) and of course heavy metals, as the raw linseed and vegetable oil will not polymerize by itself.

 

[Charlie Knighton]

had not thought of pencils....

 

[John Torchick]

One could put turnings on a piece of wood with sheetrock screws through it. Put the turning on it and allows air circulation all around. I have heard of WWers using kid's jacks. Remember them?