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Sorby Proedge vs grinder

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I have used a Sorby Pro edge for about a year now. Since I like spending money on stuff I don't need; I bought a Rikon 1hp and a wolverine system to go with it. I'll have to say that for me, the proedge is much easier to use, and seems to give me a better edge on my gouges and scrapers; so as with many tools that I just had to have; It just sits there. The original wheels that came with the grinder are ok, but I'd like to try some norton wheels. I'm not going to get a cbn wheel because I don't think they actually sharpen any better and the quality is all over the place.
I like the flat grind verses the hollow grind of the round wheels. Am I missing something??
 

hockenbery

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use what works for you!

For me a flat grind is better on gouges. I sharpen spindle gouges by hand and usually have a slight convex because it’s the what I get Because I usually miss flat. Bow gouges I use the Ellsworth jig and get a concave which works fine. Flat would be a bit better

I like a concave grind on skews because it makes it easier for me to hone.

I liked using the Norton 3x wheels 120 & 60 until I replaced them with CBNs 80 & 180from Ken Rizzo
i sharpened my bowl gouges with the 60 Norton and now with the 80 CBN
CBNs are so smooth, no dressing required
 
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If you are used to it, then keep it. I can't say that I have ever turned with a flat bevel on anything. All of my gouges have a very small cutting bevel because I have ground most of the heel off of all of them, which is necessary for turning the inside of bowls.

robo hippy
 
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I am curious why you are skeptical on CBN wheels. I have come across dozens if not 100's of turners who have switched to CBN and not one has complained.
Ditto ... I have had my CBN wheels a little over 7 years now. I would never consider going back to friable wheels.
 
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Yeah. Less mess, less heat, no dressing. Cbn's were worth it for me. If you're going to dump more money into the grinder you don't really need i would just skip the nortons and go straight to cbn. As for the hollow vs flat going I'm not sure it makes much difference other than honing by hand is a little easier on a hollow grind, but I rarely do that.
 
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You can set yourself up with a 1 hp grinder and 2 CBN wheels for less than the Pro Edge sharpening system, and you will never have to replace the abrasive belts.... A CBN wheel is good for about 5 years in the shop of a production turner.

robo hippy
 

odie

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@John Hicks.....

Modern technology has made cbn wheels available, and they have their purpose. The great majority of turners these days, want to go directly from the grinder to the lathe, so the cbn wheel is a natural choice. Will it cut?.....sure it will! Can it be sharper?..... sure it can!

If you want to know what the old boys knew, you might consider thinking of the grinder as nothing but a way of shaping, and removing metal fast......and, then concentrate on honing for a super keen edge. It's not that hard to do......but, many turners will spend major bucks to save a few minutes of time.....and in the end, settle for "almost as good" as someone sharpening on an Arkansas stone 100 years ago.

There are many components to getting a tooled surface on the most difficult of woods. How would you like to get a tooled surface that you could start sanding with 320 grit, on something like rock hard, bone dry Jarrah burl, or the like? I'm telling you this is possible, but it won't be a matter of my telling you how to do it.....I can't because it involves some level of spirituality......you must make your own discoveries with a plethora of theorems and practical applications. When it all comes together, the result is a finely crafted surface that requires a bare minimum of fine hand sanding.

Getting back to the subject, a major component of that equation, is a mega-sharp edge that can only be had with careful and consciensosly applied honing. That mega-sharp edge won't last very long, but the "old boys", spent the time and effort to keep it that way.

We have been here before, and I expect there will be an uproar of disagreement with my statements above........however, I'm only giving an opinion of what truths I believe are there for anyone willing to do the time, the experimenting.....and make their own discoveries.

-----odie-----
 
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Interesting. I won't post it again but the video of the Moroccan bow lathe has the fellow sharpening his skew, the only tool he used, with a file.
 

odie

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Which old boys?

I was just looking at a man-powered lathe here on the forums, and I think I'd rule that out as being too far back. Probably the real technological benefit started with powered lathes, and the ability to adjust to "speed ranges". Modern lathes with infinitely variable speeds make things even more applicable to what is possible. I believe those "old boys" I refer to are very limited in how many there were, but it's certain those I'm speaking of had plenty of time to make the necessary discoveries in finding what works to eliminate sanding. It definitely involved the "spiritual" element.

We, in current times have advantages the "old boys" didn't have, with the wide variety of lathe tools and tooling, but the basic concepts of the lathe are pretty much the same as what they had to deal with a hundred years ago. As well, there is no advantage we have over the ability to observe and learn from our experiences.

The one true advantage we have over the "old boys", is power sanding, and this was a game changer. Just take a look at what others are producing, and you'll see designs and shapes that are particularly applicable to what our power sanders are capable of dealing with. The element of eliminating sanding is much less of an obstacle to a reasonably finished bowl, because power sanding can eliminate the need for a finely crafted tooled surface. Without power sanding, the "old boys" had a whole different set of priorities in dealing with what the modern turner doesn't have to deal with......and, in this regard, the modern turner has lost something very valuable that the "old boys" gained with a great deal of effort.

-----odie-----
 
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@odie I cannot agree with all of the “old boy” comments. The “old boys” didn’t have the modern steels we have today. Honing steel vs V10 steel is a totally different thing. I doubt that they honed every time it was sharpened on a stone. Of course that is speculation. Rather it was done for final cuts only. I also believe they were highly skilled. A turner may be “spiritual”, but they also need to be skilled. Not sure what your push back to CBN Wheels really is.
Yes, I want and do go from the grinder to the lathe. What is important to me, did I make the best use of this wood, not if I can start sanding at 320. The “old boys” used the technology available to them. I also use the technology available to me.
 

john lucas

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The quality of the edge depends on what grit you use. Not what machine. There are subtle differences between say 600 grit sandpaper vs 600 grit CBN but I dont think the wood can tell.the difference. When i did my sharpening test the first experiment was to use my Tormek ,1000 grit strip.sander and a 1000 grit CBN wheel. I could. Ot tell the difference in cut. Under 400.times.magnification there were subtle differences. That's what led me to go up to higher grits and electron microscope to.see the differences. I really feel.its.much more important how the wood crosses the edge of the tool and the shape of the tool.edge than what you sharpen with.
There is still an argument about a course sawtooth edge cutting green wood better. I dont turn a lot of green wood so cant answer that question. On dry wood I have no doubts that in dry wood turning with a more acute edge and a finer grit leaves a cleaner cut. Now it does matter what wood. I can leave a.polished piece of wood using pine a d a course grind. That same tool.will leave tool Mark's in check chen and some other exotics. On those a more.polished edge is required.
 

odie

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We have been here before, and I expect there will be an uproar of disagreement with my statements above........however, I'm only giving an opinion of what truths I believe are there for anyone willing to do the time, the experimenting.....and make their own discoveries.

Good morning......:)

Disagreement is good. It leads to discussion.

@William Rogers, I have some comments about modern tool steels, and how I believe they lead turners to a disadvantage over steels that were available years ago.

.....However, I'm getting ready for Church right now, and don't have the time for a reasoned, thoughtful response.

-----odie-----
 
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Which edge you need, compared to which edge you have can vary a lot. I went through some bowls recently of some silver maple that had almost gotten to the too soft point. So, ever the experimenter, I went through sharpening on the 600 grit wheel, sharpening on the 600 grit wheel, then honing on my Tormek, and shear scraping with scrapers where I had honed off the burr, both on 1000 grit diamond plate and the Tormek and then burnished a burr. I got the best and cleanest cuts from the gouge that was honed on the Tormek. I had thought that a very light shear scrape with the burnished burr would be comparable. It was not. I do have a 1000 grit wheel, but it wasn't mounted. Still could not get all the tear out gone. Will save that test for another day...

robo hippy
 

odie

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Which edge you need, compared to which edge you have can vary a lot.
Ain't that the truth, Robo.......! :)

This is exactly why it's imperative to keep the cutting edge closer to the edge "you need" at all times, rather than further from it, with the edge "you have". There is only one way to do that......sharpen/hone much more often than most turners are willing to do. I'm just like the rest of turners, and I'm just as anxious to get back to the lathe as everyone else, but the sharpening delays become more an accustomed part of turning, once it becomes more habitual. ;)

I remember reading somewhere in the forums that the freshly sharpened edge will last about 10-15 seconds......and, I agree with that wholeheartedly. Here's the thing about that, though......if the entire cutting edge is say.....about 3/4" in length for one wing of a gouge, the edge will last longer with light delicate cuts, than it will for heavy aggressive cuts. That 3/4" length isn't entirely used up with a single cut, so that usable length will dull over the entire surface a little less with the light cuts.....because you're using a smaller portion of the total edge that is available. Just where along that total length is more usable than less usable, is more apparent when "spiritual" turning plays a more significant part of the turner's total awareness.

@William Rogers , I haven't forgotten about explaining myself with my statements regarding tool steels......but, for now, I have other obligations to attend to. Hope to get back to you on that a little later on today......:)

-----odie-----
 
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odie

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@William Rogers , I haven't forgotten about explaining myself with my statements regarding tool steels......but, for now, I have other obligations to attend to. Hope to get back to you on that a little later on today......:)
I have no doubts that in dry wood turning with a more acute edge and a finer grit leaves a cleaner cut.

Absolutely, @john lucas , and your statement applies more to bowl turning than any other type of turning, specifically because bowl turning has the unique problematic physical aspects of requiring the cut to alternate between long grain and end grain, both for interior and exterior applications.

@William Rogers , Many of the modern premium tool steels are marketed with the promise of edge holding ability.....the cutting edge will simply last longer. Who wouldn't want that....right?

While I would agree that the edge does indeed last longer, I've come to an alternative POV on the usefulness of the above (in bold) proposition, as applied to the value it has in the act of woodturning. Let's consider this for the moment: After a tool is sharpened, it's at the most acute level of sharpness during it's entire useful life-span while turning. This initial starting point is the point where, if all other pieces of the puzzle are at the optimum, will leave the cleanest cut with the least tear-out, requiring the least amount of sanding that is possible. THIS, the elimination of the need for aggressive sanding, is what we all strive to achieve, but it's a very high bar......and, as stated, sharpness is only one small piece of the overall puzzle required to achieve that goal. ;)

Now, let's consider the entire useful life-span of a sharpened tool. When freshly sharpened, it's at it's sharpest. At the end of that life-span, it's at it's least acceptable level of sharpness. There is a difference between the extremes in that life-span, and that difference is the ability to leave the cleanest possible surface under the worst of circumstances.....Bone dry, hard, dense, directly opposed end-grain, and very resistant to cutting cleanly.

Since the more modern tool steels are much harder, and resistant to dulling, they will cut cleanly at the beginning of their edge life-span, and at an acceptable level of clean cutting ability at the end of that life span. Still, that sounds great, doesn't it? Well, it is.......until you consider the end of that life-span will linger, and last a long time before the turner decides to re-sharpen......now, that is the problem right there......that lingering for a long time before the turner's senses tells him he needs to re-sharpen. Because of that, the turner will stay in that zone of not quite-as-sharp-as-it-could-be......and specifically because of that, he continues at the lathe for far longer with a tool that is what he has, but isn't as good as he needs it to be. (ala: robo) :)

For a long long time, the standard was carbon steel. In the very beginning, I bought a cheap set of carbon steel turning tools, and I still have one or two of them stashed away somewhere. What I can tell you, is you can get just as sharp an edge with carbon steel, as you can with the modern techno-advanced steels available to us these days. The difference between the old fashioned carbon steel tools, and the modern hybrid steels, is the length of time they will stay "in the zone". These days, my preferred tool steel is M2 HSS. It will stay in the zone longer than carbon steel, but not nearly as long as the more modern steels. This is a great advantage because it dulls much quicker than the hybrid steels, and slower than the old carbon steel tools.....thus, still giving the much needed early indication of where in the zone you are.....and that faster pace of the "early warning" is much more perceptive to our humanly senses than the hybrid steels can provide for our evaluation. (The term "perceptive" here, is one more thing that requires some level of "spiritual" involvement to function at the highest level of outcome any one individual can achieve.....and we, as a group, are not all the same in that regard!)

The hybrid steels are like boiling the frog......the rate at which they will dull, is such a slow process that the turner doesn't realize he'd be better off to re-sharpen long after it would have been prudent to do so.......even though he's still technically "in the zone"! :eek:

-----odie-----
 
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@John Hicks John, I really don’t understand your desire for a grinder and a wolverine system. I have the wolverine system with CBN Wheels. I use the Vector grind with that system for years. Even though I am happy with this system, the Sorby is interesting. If I had the Sorby I wouldn’t think of going to a CBN grinder setup. I used the OneWay vari-grind for years and it is a good system. I now use the Vector grind for bowl gouges and spindle gouges. It does put a different profile on the wings of bowl gouges and spindle gouges. I like this profile much better than the profile of the OneWay. The Sorby appears to be somewhat similar in putting a similar profile. If I didn't have so much invested, The Sorby would be my choice.
 
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@odie I don’t quite see things the same as you. My take on your post (and correct me if I am wrong) is that a turner using M2 steels vs the more modern steels is likely to sharpen his tool more often and a turner using the modern steels is likely to go past the point of needing to sharpen. I have M2 and V10 steels for bowl gouges. We agree that the V10 will last longer. Where I disagree is that I use the V10 beyond its life and don’t use the M2 beyond its life. What that life is is something decided by the individual turner. There are no set number of passes before a tool is considered dull. And for me, it doesn’t matter the steel in determining a dull tool. My “dull” and your “dull” may be very different, but neither is wrong. I don’t see a problem with how long a turner stays at the lathe before sharpening. Experience will eventually lead him to find the optimum point of needing to re-sharpen. That said the only time really necessary to sharpen (IMO) is before final cut(s). It doesn’t matter on any cut prior to that as I’m not sanding or looking for a 320 finish every cut. Now the wood plays a part in the sharpening. Punky wood will take sharper tools more often before the final cuts because of excessive tearout. The other thing for me is when I switched to the Vector grind vs the Vari-grind. It does produce a different profile especially on the wings of my gouges. My cuts are better since switching. I think it is something overlooked and just as important as the grit of the wheels. I’m not sure where this falsehood of turners not sharpening because they use modern steels originated, but it does not apply to me. I have been turning for 5 years. The first 4 1/2 were mainly just figuring out what equipment to use. I think I’m past the equipment phase and now beginning to really concentrate on other aspects of turning.
 
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@John Hicks John, I really don’t understand your desire for a grinder and a wolverine system. I have the wolverine system with CBN Wheels. I use the Vector grind with that system for years. Even though I am happy with this system, the Sorby is interesting. If I had the Sorby I wouldn’t think of going to a CBN grinder setup. I used the OneWay vari-grind for years and it is a good system. I now use the Vector grind for bowl gouges and spindle gouges. It does put a different profile on the wings of bowl gouges and spindle gouges. I like this profile much better than the profile of the OneWay. The Sorby appears to be somewhat similar in putting a similar profile. If I didn't have so much invested, The Sorby would be my choice.

I like to buy stuff I don't need or use! It does come in handy for sharpening those tiny Bosch hollowing cutters, and the oneway coring cutters.
 

odie

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@odie I don’t quite see things the same as you. My take on your post (and correct me if I am wrong) is that a turner using M2 steels vs the more modern steels is likely to sharpen his tool more often and a turner using the modern steels is likely to go past the point of needing to sharpen. I have M2 and V10 steels for bowl gouges. We agree that the V10 will last longer. Where I disagree is that I use the V10 beyond its life and don’t use the M2 beyond its life. What that life is is something decided by the individual turner. There are no set number of passes before a tool is considered dull. And for me, it doesn’t matter the steel in determining a dull tool. My “dull” and your “dull” may be very different, but neither is wrong. I don’t see a problem with how long a turner stays at the lathe before sharpening. Experience will eventually lead him to find the optimum point of needing to re-sharpen. That said the only time really necessary to sharpen (IMO) is before final cut(s). It doesn’t matter on any cut prior to that as I’m not sanding or looking for a 320 finish every cut. Now the wood plays a part in the sharpening. Punky wood will take sharper tools more often before the final cuts because of excessive tearout. The other thing for me is when I switched to the Vector grind vs the Vari-grind. It does produce a different profile especially on the wings of my gouges. My cuts are better since switching. I think it is something overlooked and just as important as the grit of the wheels. I’m not sure where this falsehood of turners not sharpening because they use modern steels originated, but it does not apply to me. I have been turning for 5 years. The first 4 1/2 were mainly just figuring out what equipment to use. I think I’m past the equipment phase and now beginning to really concentrate on other aspects of turning.

Hello William....... :)

Well, I think it's obvious you are not grasping what I had to say......and, right from the beginning, I knew that would be so for some. It all leans heavily on one's "spiritual" awareness, and that's something that may, or may not be a part of everyone's mental state. That spiritual awareness is often a condition of how well all the input data is processed, and guides your actions. Some of that processed data is done while in the act of turning, as well as evaluation of your work while the lathe is stopped.

I feel that, after 39 years of turning, things are finally coming together for me. I'm anxious to convey some of the changes that's come about with my work in the recent past, and discuss these things with anyone who has made some, or any of the things that has been key points in allowing whatever progress made, to happen. That's why I'm on these forums. It's been several years since I used any method of power sanding on bowl exteriors.....zip, zero, nada! There, I've only needed fine hand sanding to complete the exteriors, ready for applying the finish. I'm now doing more detail work on my bowl exteriors than I've ever successfully done before. Back then, I couldn't do it like I do now, because I never was able to get the details without aggressive sanding.....and, that's a big problem!

If you've read some of my previous posts over the years, you should be aware that aggressive power sanding is what destroys geometric integrity, and geometric integrity is exactly what makes multiple finely executed details possible to do, without them looking faulty.......If it's perfectly circular and concentric, the details will look outstanding, and the eye will subconsciously detect this. You just know when something looks right, or wrong. If it looks right, the aesthetic appeal is spring boarded to great appreciation levels.....this all happens without consciously thinking about it. Have you ever looked at a great work of art, but can't explain why it looks good to you.......well, that's what I'm talking about, William. ;)

I suppose I should state that I still do use power sanding on interiors every time, mainly because it's much faster.....much, much faster.....and I don't care much about geometric integrity there. I hate sanding, just as much as most of those reading this do......

Bottom line.....keep at it, William. Since you've been turning for awhile, you've probably noticed that the great majority of new turners come and go like a "flash in the pan". They get all excited after making one or two simple things, and then most of them inevitably lose interest. I think this is because most of them never get past doing very basic work......and, that's just not enough to keep inspiring you. They just don't stick with it long enough to let the experience dwell on their sense of total awareness.....

The good in that, is there are a lot of barely used lathes, lathe tools and accessories that will eventually be sold for cheap! ;)

-----odie-----
 
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These modern metals are a wonder to turn with. I may have one carbon steel tool. The biggest difference in the 'lasts 10 times longer' metals is that you can hog off a lot more material before you need to go to the sharpener. I was really surprised the first time I had one and had used it non stop for a couple of months and went back to one of my old M2HSS tools. The edge dulled much more quickly on it. No matter what though, I always use a fresh edge for a finish cut. It can save sanding time.

robo hippy
 

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These modern metals are a wonder to turn with. I may have one carbon steel tool. The biggest difference in the 'lasts 10 times longer' metals is that you can hog off a lot more material before you need to go to the sharpener. I was really surprised the first time I had one and had used it non stop for a couple of months and went back to one of my old M2HSS tools. The edge dulled much more quickly on it. No matter what though, I always use a fresh edge for a finish cut. It can save sanding time.

robo hippy

Yes I agree, robo......

The useful life of the cutting edge for modern steels do last longer........I stated that in my posts, but it wasn't the point. :)

-----odie-----
 
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@odie Odie, I am appreciative of you knowledge and respect your ability of the bowls you turn. They are “expertly” made. Your experience far exceeds mine. From your previous post, my take was turners go too long before sharpening and use of modern steels. That may be the wrong impression, but was mine. I would like every cut to be a finish cut, but roughing cuts are not that important to me. I’m just getting rid of wood at that point. I usually start finish cuts well before the final cut and may sharpen several times even if the tool doesn’t feel dull. Yes, I want to achieve the optimum profile without sanding if I can. I don’t want a bowl to have dips and high spots that you can get from sanding. My take is that can only be done with the final cut(s). I realize sanding can change the profile of a piece. I’m not sure this meets your definition of “spiritual”. I know when I feel I have it right.
 

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From your previous post, my take was turners go too long before sharpening and use of modern steels.
Yes, you are correct, William.......the point here was: 'What are the reasons why a turner will tend to go too long?' The ultimate answer to that is more of a recognition of the sensual input data while in the act of turning. I suppose one could make a cut, then stop the lathe and analyze the results, then do another cut, and stop the lathe.......and, so forth.......but, who realistically does that?
I would like every cut to be a finish cut, but roughing cuts are not that important to me. I’m just getting rid of wood at that point.
I think maybe you and @robo hippy have something in common about roughing cuts and hybrid steels.......and, maybe that's where the real advantage of the modern steels, are. I do have one gouge, and a couple of scrapers made from hybrid steels, and maybe I should consider designating them for roughing purposes. Once they're used up, though, I'll probably just continue to use my M2 gouges and scrapers for roughing purposes. Sharpening often is part of my evolved "routine" now.....and I often sharpen "just because"! :)

As for finish turning.....I want that edge to dull more quickly.......for the specific reasons I've mentioned previously.
I usually start finish cuts well before the final cut and may sharpen several times even if the tool doesn’t feel dull. Yes, I want to achieve the optimum profile without sanding if I can. I don’t want a bowl to have dips and high spots that you can get from sanding. My take is that can only be done with the final cut(s). I realize sanding can change the profile of a piece.
I agree with all of this ^^^^^, and wish you well in your turning efforts. :D

-----odie-----
 
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I think maybe you and @robo hippy have something in common about roughing cuts and hybrid steels.......and, maybe that's where the real advantage of the modern steels, are. I do have one gouge, and a couple of scrapers made from hybrid steels, and maybe I should consider designating them for roughing purposes. Once they're used up, though, I'll probably just continue to use my M2 gouges and scrapers for roughing purposes. Sharpening often is part of my evolved "routine" now.....and I often sharpen "just because"! :)
Maybe if you get a CBN wheel you won’t use up your hybrid steel (and M2) steels
 

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Maybe if you get a CBN wheel you won’t use up your hybrid steel (and M2) steels

Hopefully, someday you'll understand what I've been trying to convey......but, I believe not very many turners ever will. :(

If that ever happens, it will open up whole new frontiers for you.......:)

-----odie-----
 
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@odie I’m an engineer. I think engineer’s brains are wired different. I know I am colorblind as only seeing black and white. Maybe I have figured out what you are conveying, only in an engineer’s form.
 

odie

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@odie I’m an engineer. I think engineer’s brains are wired different. I know I am colorblind as only seeing black and white. Maybe I have figured out what you are conveying, only in an engineer’s form.

Heh,heh,heh.......Yep, we all bring different thoughts and experiences to the table, William........ :)

I think what you bring is more in tune with the majority, but me.......I call myself "the eccentric old guy" for a reason. I've had that handle for quite a long time among those who know me. What I bring, is probably not too understandable to many others, but it's very real to me! :rolleyes:


-----odie-----

keep on turnin'.jpg
 
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HUH?? Why does it have to get so complicated. It's a hunk of steel with a edge that is either sharp, dull, or somewhere in between. There are far more important things than turning......I'm not sure what they are, but I'm sure there's something.
 

odie

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You can set yourself up with a 1 hp grinder and 2 CBN wheels for less than the Pro Edge sharpening system, and you will never have to replace the abrasive belts.... A CBN wheel is good for about 5 years in the shop of a production turner.

robo hippy
You have to consider the total cost of grinding in woodturning. That means all your jigs, wheel balancing including diamond dressers, spherical washers, etc.
I did a grinder cost study for my club several years ago and the Proedge with its all-inclusive jig package was the cheapest to own. Non-proedge brand Ceramic replacement belts are around 3-4 bucks each. The stone wheel grinding system with Norton wheels was the second cheapest and swapping out for CBN wheels was the most expensive option. You have to cost in the wolverine and varigrind and other accessories needed sharpening in woodturning.
The Proedge is $404. delivered to your door from Amazon with no setup time.
Do the math.
 
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As a new turner, I did the same analysis. The Pro Edge was still a few bucks more than a Rikon grinder/CBN set-up but after watching numerous videos on both options, I went with the Pro Edge and have had no issues getting a repeatable grind on my tools within seconds (no learning curve). If you already owned a grinder - probably no need to go the Pro Edge route.

It sits right next to my lathe and since it is so easy to use - I sharpen often.
 
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I have used a Sorby Pro edge for about a year now. Since I like spending money on stuff I don't need; I bought a Rikon 1hp and a wolverine system to go with it. I'll have to say that for me, the proedge is much easier to use, and seems to give me a better edge on my gouges and scrapers; so as with many tools that I just had to have; It just sits there. The original wheels that came with the grinder are ok, but I'd like to try some norton wheels. I'm not going to get a cbn wheel because I don't think they actually sharpen any better and the quality is all over the place.
I like the flat grind verses the hollow grind of the round wheels. Am I missing something??
Yes, you are missing something.
I converted over to belt sander sharpening of all my turning tools and I am a big fan of the flat grind. I also enjoy the ease of changing belts to obtain different levels of sharpness depending on the tool's requirements.

Recently I obtained A 10V bowl gouge which didn't quite sharpen as well on the belt as compared to a CBN. As I bought more tools, I realized that I needed CBN for obtaining the maximum sharpness that the newer tool metals promise. (There are diamond belts that in theory will obtain that fine CBN edge but I didn't want to purchase to verify)

With that being said, I bought a variable speed Tradesman which has both belt and CBN to solve my evolving sharpening requirements. I also found that variable speed belt sanding is advantageous in certain situations.
 
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I have a couple Thompson gouges, and I've not had any issues getting a razor edge with a ceramic belt on the Proedge; I have been using the same belt for several months and it still cuts like it did the first time I put it on. It was 4.35. I had a Tormek (even bought their diamond wheel), it worked well but was useless for re shaping anything. I'll stick with the proedge. Grinders are better for those that production turn I believe.
Of course if someone wants to use an old tire with sandpaper glued to it, it probably is the best thing in the world to that person; and they can use complex mathematical calculations to show it's the best thing on the planet.
 
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Yes, you are missing something.
I converted over to belt sander sharpening of all my turning tools and I am a big fan of the flat grind. I also enjoy the ease of changing belts to obtain different levels of sharpness depending on the tool's requirements.

Recently I obtained A 10V bowl gouge which didn't quite sharpen as well on the belt as compared to a CBN. As I bought more tools, I realized that I needed CBN for obtaining the maximum sharpness that the newer tool metals promise. (There are diamond belts that in theory will obtain that fine CBN edge but I didn't want to purchase to verify)

With that being said, I bought a variable speed Tradesman which has both belt and CBN to solve my evolving sharpening requirements. I also found that variable speed belt sanding is advantageous in certain situations.
That Tradesman is a thing of beauty. If I owned one, I would keep it inside where I could look at it everyday!!!!
 
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