I'm a relatively new turner to spindle turning. Most of my work has been bowls, hollow forms, boxes, etc. I recently acquired a Jet 1642 EVS lathe to compliment my trusty Jet 1220 midi lathe. The larger lathe has allowed me to begin to turn longer pieces for projects like table legs, stairrail spindles, and baseball bats. The problem I keep running into is that I get a lot of vibration in the center of pieces approx 36" long. I don't have much knowledge turning between centers in this length. What is the trick to keeping the stock spinning true and not vibrating around causing a mess of work for sandpaper? I usually run between 500-800 RPM and use good quality chisels properly sharpened. Any suggestions as to what I might be missing or setting up wrong? Thanks!
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Spindle turning vibrations
- Thread starter Marc
- Start date
How thick is your stock?
I get this symptom too when I'm turning long spindles (baseball bats) and figure it is due to the centers not being perfectly aligned at that distance.
You might also check the basics, make sure your headstock is tightly locked down to the lathe, the same with the tail stock.
If all looks good and your turning fairly thin stock, you might try a center steady which basically is a set of rollers that you can put between the headstock and the tail stock to support your spindle.
I get this symptom too when I'm turning long spindles (baseball bats) and figure it is due to the centers not being perfectly aligned at that distance.
You might also check the basics, make sure your headstock is tightly locked down to the lathe, the same with the tail stock.
If all looks good and your turning fairly thin stock, you might try a center steady which basically is a set of rollers that you can put between the headstock and the tail stock to support your spindle.
Spindle vibrations
1. Check the basics as suggested by Jimbo.
2. Use a steady rest if needed. I have two of them both wooden home-made jobs. I suggest a heavy metal one if you can afford it.
3. Avoid too much pressure from the tailstock.
4. Super sharp tools are a must.
5. There is a lot of variation in density in many woods that long. That in itself can throw you off on vibration. Use John Jordans axiom, good wood only, no junk.
6. I have been turning pieces 44 to 50 inches long 2 1/2 inches square when starting for wall sculptures. Each piece seems to have has its own natural rpm setting but I am not sure, more of a feeling I have.
7. If possible turn shorter pieces and then join together. I know this will not work for baseball bats.
Some turners with super lathes like the Powermatics may respond and their comments will be interesting.
1. Check the basics as suggested by Jimbo.
2. Use a steady rest if needed. I have two of them both wooden home-made jobs. I suggest a heavy metal one if you can afford it.
3. Avoid too much pressure from the tailstock.
4. Super sharp tools are a must.
5. There is a lot of variation in density in many woods that long. That in itself can throw you off on vibration. Use John Jordans axiom, good wood only, no junk.
6. I have been turning pieces 44 to 50 inches long 2 1/2 inches square when starting for wall sculptures. Each piece seems to have has its own natural rpm setting but I am not sure, more of a feeling I have.
7. If possible turn shorter pieces and then join together. I know this will not work for baseball bats.
Some turners with super lathes like the Powermatics may respond and their comments will be interesting.
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It all comes down to tool control.
You have to learn to be soft with your hands and not push the tool into the wood. Have a sharp tool and allow it to cut on its own.
What is happening is you are pushing too hard and the timber is flexing as other have suggested use a steady rest but for something this short it would get in the way more often than not.
One way to overcome the flex is to learn to turn one handed and use the other hand as a temporary steady.
You put your thumb over the toolrest and your hand over the timber to stop the flexing then you use the tool normally but keep close to your hand, if you apply too much pressure you will feel it in your hand, your hand is only there to stop the flex .With some timbers I use a gym glove to stop abrading my hand but the fingers are exposed so if they get hot you know to back of.
Your thumb on the toolrest also acts as a stop and support for your tool.
Try and get more speed on the peice as well, we turn 45mm sq balusters at around 1000 rpm with this method, it makes the cut cleaner
You have to learn to be soft with your hands and not push the tool into the wood. Have a sharp tool and allow it to cut on its own.
What is happening is you are pushing too hard and the timber is flexing as other have suggested use a steady rest but for something this short it would get in the way more often than not.
One way to overcome the flex is to learn to turn one handed and use the other hand as a temporary steady.
You put your thumb over the toolrest and your hand over the timber to stop the flexing then you use the tool normally but keep close to your hand, if you apply too much pressure you will feel it in your hand, your hand is only there to stop the flex .With some timbers I use a gym glove to stop abrading my hand but the fingers are exposed so if they get hot you know to back of.
Your thumb on the toolrest also acts as a stop and support for your tool.
Try and get more speed on the peice as well, we turn 45mm sq balusters at around 1000 rpm with this method, it makes the cut cleaner
Chiming in to add that you should be working from the tailstock end first. You may initially round to a cylinder overall, but the idea is to keep as much wood (and mass) as possible between the tool tip and driven end back at the headstock. If necessary, work a section at a time, stair-stepping down to final diameters where transitioning from one section to the next. You may also want to sand and apply sealer and/or finish as you go, rather than wait 'til the end or off-lathe.
Thanks for the input. I've considered a steady in the center, but with stock approx 36" long, I believe it would be in the way more than I would benefit. I guess it boils down to more practice in this style turning. Turning bowls from green wood with a Ellsworth gouge allows me to remove large amounts of material in a reasonably short amount of time. Working with dry stock of longer lengths is a new trick for me. I was just wondering if there might be something set up wrong, a issue with my lathe or something. I will work on 'lighter hands' and get the hang of taking less material with more speed and see what happens.