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Square Nosed Scraper

R

Randy Heinemann

Joined
Jul 19, 2017
Messages
507
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474
Location
Roscoe, Illinois
I assume square nose scrapers are used to make bottoms flat or cut a square interface with the sides of a piece. However, given the shape it seems as if there is a high likelihood that it would catch easily.

1. What are the uses for a square nose scraper?
2. Are square nose scrapers prone to catches?
3. Will turning them into a NR scraper prevent catches?
 
The catch problem with a square nose scraper would mostly be on the inside of a box or hollow form. I consider them to be a good tool if you want a square corner inside a box. Technically the ones I use are not at 90 degrees to the shaft or side. They are closer to 80 or 85 degrees. This makes it so that you can sweep across the bottom all the way into the corner, keeping the front edge flat on the bottom of the box, and when you get to the corner, the side edge will not be in contact with the wood. This is the catch place if the square edge scraper is 90/90, because you end up getting all of both edges into the wood at one time, so double the pressure on the cutting tool. Turning it into a NRS would lessen the resistance, but not eliminate it. I never use square edge scrapers when turning bowls. Side note, if you are sweeping across the bottom of a box, go very gently!

robo hippy
 
I have used square nose scraper as John said. Only on outside finishing cuts on outside of bowl or hf. Outside
 
I'm with Emiliano. A square nose scraper is just extremely hard to use without disastrous results inside projects. I use one, ground at a little less than 90 degrees as seen from on top and with the end of the left side ground like the front of the nose, to cut the side wall of boxes, but I stop before I get to the bottom of the box. A big flat edge with end grain hammering down on it just isn't a fun experience. Or successful. The Hunter tool (also a #5 Badger) is just the tool for cutting the bottom and corner. A hook tool or Oneway Termite tool can also be used, but in my hands the Hunter tool works better. If you have to have a perfectly sharp corner, a negative rake scraper with a less than 90 degree angle would be a much safer choice. Just my 3 cents.
 
As for angles, the side stays square, and/or parallel to the lathe bed. The bottom would angle back to the tailstock, 5 or so degrees. I probably should get some of Mike Hunter's tools....

robo hippy
 
I noticed an inexpensive one on sale and was thinking about it because it isn’t something I would use much and it was cheap. I’ll just pass. No sense spending money on something that’s likely to give me problems especially since it wouldn’t be used much. Thanks for the info.
 
If it is a high speed steel one, you can always grind it to a different shape... Carbide ones, no...

robo hippy
 
It is high speed steel and I could grind it I know, but seems like I have so many other things I want to try and do with bowls and hollow forms I’m just going to pass. I think I can better use my time improving some more basic skills.
 
Charlie Knighton said:
I have used square nose scraper as John said. Only on outside finishing cuts on outside of bowl or hf. Outside
Click to expand...
straight scrappers can be used on outside of vases BUT look at Tom DeWinters vase, the straight scrapper can only be used on bottom portion of vase...the inward curve is a inside bowl curve.
 
I Shear scrape on the outside of a vessel orienting the edge of the tool at 45 degrees or higher to the rotation of the wood ans the bevel at near 90 degrees to the wood. I scrape form low to high.
The bottom of a cove is difficult.
The top of a curve I can both back and forth.

I often use my bowl gouge for this using the wing on the down hill side.
A straight scraper works well for this A pair of John Jordan scrapers work better.
An Al Stirt scraper is my favorite where it can be used. This tool has a slight radius and a small straight spot.
 
I familiar with John Jordan scraper but not AL Stir's. Do u have pic of Al's srapper.
 
Most of the time, I prefer a radius edge to my shear scrapers, not a straight one. I guess this is mostly because straight ones won't fit into all the places that the curved ones do. I did dedicate one entire video to shear scraping.

robo hippy
 
I made one almost 20 years ago from some HCS and have never used it after I blew up a bowl doing some outside scraping. Bowl was almost done and sat overnight in shavings and moved of course. May make it into a left grind negative rake scraper. I did grind a 3/4” scraper into the box bottom scraper just under 90°with left edge sharpened up about 3/4”. Very useful if you want a square wall and flat bottom box interior. Used it the other day to finish sizing the opening in an urn for an ABS fitting.
 
Charlie Knighton said:
I familiar with John Jordan scraper but not AL Stir's. Do u have pic of Al's srapper.
Click to expand...

Al tells me I have too much radius the last time he was here.
The right side has a tiny straight part then the radius.
This is terrific for relative flat platter rims and will work on slightly concave platter rims.
The little flat refines corners on details

0FCDD1CD-FF1B-412A-9182-B93DEF69047D.jpeg
 
Al, that is very similar to my standard bowl scraper. Kind of a flat near the nose, but I use more sweep to the left for getting into the transition area on bowls.

robo hippy
 
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