I've never worked with stabilized wood before. I purchased a 1.5" x 1.5" piece for a handle. Is there anything different about turning, and/or finishing stabilized wood? TIA.
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Stabilized Wood
- Thread starter Ed Weingarden
- Start date
It should be dry & dusty--so dust collectiom/capture while turning is important. Won't be shavings. Also, since the stabilizing process leaves it dry, expect the material to be brittle, so keep a light tough.
Earl - thanks for the info. Any issues with applying a polyurethane finish that you're aware of?
The stabilizing process imparts some degree of 'finish' to the stock. You might decide you don't need any other finish, depending on the use of the finished product.
Dean - the piece will be used as a handle for a pizza cutter. Thus, it needs a fairly durable finish. I suppose I could apply some polyurethane on it before it's turned to it's final diameter and see what happens. If it's not good, I can turn the less than desirable finish off.
Melamine might be another option?
chestnutproducts.co.uk
Melamine Lacquer | Chestnut Products - First for Finishes
Quick drying, hard wearing full gloss lacquer.
chestnutproducts.co.uk
Bill - thanks for the link. I've never used Melamine Lacquer before, but I like the description of it. May have to give it a try.
@Bill Alston - do you need to use a sanding sealer prior to the melamine lacquer? If so, what kind? Thanks.
Called the manufacture and ask. I've worked with Dymondwood (rip) and WSSI stabilized wood. It's a resin impregnating process. Most of it can be sanded with 600 grit and buffed if you choose to a high shine. No finish required and it lasts well. I have a knife or two with Dymond wood scales made years ago that still look great. Of course not all woods stabilize the same way and some use a different process. That's why I suggested a call.
Good point, I must admit I don’t know.
Edit: There is a download on this page about using Melamine as a pen finish.
Never used polyurethane on stabilized wood. Have used cyano-acrylate glue a lot with success--but i'd use a flexible version like MercuryFlex or Glu-Boost as they are less brittle than most "Super Glues". For kitchen use (wok handles, honey dippers, jar openers, etc.) i typically just use boiled linseed oil (BLO) or BLO-beeswax mix. It's all going to get wet and used--kind of like my favorite pans!!
Thanks for the link.