Submersion of Bowls

[JDaniels]

I use a lot of tung oil and some of the woods seem to drink the stuff. Has anyone done any submersion of bowls in any oils and letting them "drip dry", particularly tung oil. I realize there would be a lot of expense to get that much tung oil initially, but I think that it would be a lot easier and perhaps give a more even and smooth finish. Does anyone have any ideas, comments, experience? Please advise.
Thanks,
Jay

 

[Dario]

I know some who submerge their bowls in Danish Oil (Tung oil mix)...some ever repeatedly but not on Tung oil alone. Tung oil also reacts with air so it might get costly if the entire batch starts curing on you.

 

[SMarlow]

Jay:
I've done the "submersion" thing for my Norfolk Island Pine turnings using Danish Oil.
1) 12 hours in
2) drip dry
3) wipe off exess
4) 12 hours out
5) #### steel wool buff
6) repeat 1-5 for 12-15 times.

You end up with a transluscent piece with a beautiful finish.
Final step is a 2-week final cure and a beall buff.

Not sure if the photo will show up, but you can link to it at:
Link to picture

 

[JDaniels]

Czar,
Thanks for the recipe/methodology and I'll try the Danish oil. This is probably a stupid question, but I assume it takes 12 hours to cure. I am fine with that if my bowls turn out like yours. Any other recommendations you can offer would be greatly appreciated as I really am interested in doing it.

Dario,
I had wondered about how it would react once I got it in a "vat". I assume that the same problem does not occur with Danish oil. Is this correct? Please advise.

Thanks,
Jay

 

[SMarlow]

Jay:
It takes longer than 12 hours to "cure," but 12 hours is more than emough for the surface to "Dry".
I use the steel wool to rub out any varnish "boogers" that can form on the bowl, and to even up the build.

I do mine in a 5-gallon lidded bucket. Bought about 12 quarts of danish oil from Lowes. The generic brand is the same as WATCO and is $7.50 a quart versus $12+ for the WATCO.
I drilled a small hole in the middle of the bucket lid, and push in a long 1/4" dowel through it to hold the piece down since the bowls will float.
When I am all done, I strain the unused oil through a paint strainer and funnel it back into their original containers.

good luck.

 

[Dario]

Since Danish oil is a mixture (oils and thinners) it dries faster than pure Tung oil. Both will eventually cure, how fast depends on how much air pocket is left on the container be it a vat or a bottle. That is why some advocate collapsible containers or putting marbles in the container so it is always "full" reducing the exposed surface area as well as volume of air.

Tung oil also has a very poor penetration...Danish oil being thinner goes much deeper in the wood.

In an open container, both will be wasted in a few days...not sure if you can save it by thinning further (probably only to a degree).

I am not an expert...most of these are from my limited experience and readings but I can attest to them.

 

[dkulze]

Look up Ron Kent out of Hawai. He uses this method with his work. Gets really cool formations from the dripping finish also.

Dietrich