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Swapping jaws mounted on slides

Joined
Oct 17, 2025
Messages
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Location
Konsmo, Agder, Norway
Ive been thinking about mounting the jaws that i dont use to often on ekstra jaw slides and just pop out the jawslides with the jaws mounted. I almost always use a tenon for mounting and prefer the dovetail profile on the vicmarc jaws over the straight jaws of the oneway profiled jaws. To do this the safety pin does have to be removed but as long as one doesent open the jaws all the way this shud not pose any risk as far as i know.

So just wondering if anyone has experience ore any thought about this?

André
 
No experience with the jaw slide attached to a jaw but I have removed the slides on my Stronghold chuck a few times. No reason it won’t work. Thought about doing it myself but with the cost of the jaw slides I decided to buy another stronghold chuck. For that chuck I use the #2 or #3 profile tower jaws 95% of the time so it cut my jaw changes considerably.

Are you aware Oneway does have std height dovetail jaws? Also, the top ~1/4” of the inside of the tower jaws is a dovetail, then the rest of the depth (~1”) are the serrated ribs. I use the dt portion for bowls and then the deeper part for taller hf’s and vases. The tower jaws provide a lot easier access to the lower part of the form without allowing vibration.
 
Yes i am aware that they offer smooth jaws as they call it but i happening to have a couple of vicmarc chucks as well as some from Oneway and i like to keep the jaws i use most freequently on a chuck.
That being said i have more jaw sets than chucks and i figured it might be a good solution for the ekstra jawsets. Atleast i wont have to fear stripping the screws swapping jaws.
 
Axminster chucks basically feature changing out jaw with slides. I have several jaws mounted on slides that I change when necessary. If you don’t have a stop you just need to be carefull not extending the jaws too far out My first Axminster did not have a stop at all. The last two Axminster chucks now have a screw on the interior bottom one one slide that is a stop and need to remove before changing jaws. It sure easier than removing the jaws from the slides and much faster.
This link where the OP asked Vicmarc about this and was told there was no technical reason it would not work, with the caution of over extending the jaws.

 
That being said i have more jaw sets than chucks

My goal is to have enough chucks so I don't have to change jaws. I hate to change jaws. I had about 20 chucks until I gave some to friends but am slowly rebuilding my stash.

As for swapping slides, I haven't experimented with that. I wonder about slides/scroll plates from different production runs having minor differences in the the normal clearance needed to prevent binding. (The chuck brand, and model might make a difference.)

If precision is important, might be worth a few tests.
 
John, I have about 6-7 different slide sets I use between my SK100 (4”) chuck and my SK114 (4.5”) chucks. I haven’t noticed any problems. I think with CNC machining they are all close to being equal. I have been using these chucks for about 5 years.

Doug, I haven’t had any jaws screws come loose, but have had a few heads strip out attributing this to wet wood. And it is a a pain to me to remove the screws just to change jaws.
 
Doug, I haven’t had any jaws screws come loose, but have had a few heads strip out attributing this to wet wood. And it is a a pain to me to remove the screws just to change jaws.
Most of what I turn is wet wood, so that ain’t it. The screws just need a snug. I do agree changing jaws is a pita, but I only have so much room and $’s for chucks - 5 currently and might add more if the right kind at the right price come along.
 
John, I have about 6-7 different slide sets I use between my SK100 (4”) chuck and my SK114 (4.5”) chucks. I haven’t noticed any problems. I think with CNC machining they are all close to being equal. I have been using these chucks for about 5 years.

Doug, I haven’t had any jaws screws come loose, but have had a few heads strip out attributing this to wet wood. And it is a a pain to me to remove the screws just to change jaws.

Agreed. CNC machining of Axminster’s Chuck Jaws (Slides) means they are in my experience manufactured to tight tolerances. Just today I fitted some eight or nine year old ones bought for my SK100 to a brand new GK88. As expected they were a perfect fit.

Some other brands of chuck have, according to their literature, cast slides rather than CNC machined.
 
As for jaw screws, I've never had one loosen and never had one break. Since I primarily turn dry wood, I wonder if the resins and extractives in slopping wet wood might glue improperly tightened screws to the slides. More likely, is using more force than needed.

One thing people who work often with wet, sticky wood might try is lubricating the threads before installing. It's a common misconception that lubrication can lead to screws loosening. Laboratory tests have proven this not the case. There is much info about this from reliable sources. A google search gave me a bunch, this is one:
I lubricate most screw threads, including lug nuts on vehicles and heavy trailers and do the final tightening with a torque wrench. Replace the lug nuts and/or studs if they have been abused and damaged. I had to do that on a horse trailer I bought - the nuts were in horrible shape.

Torquing to spec after lubrication would be ideal until one develops and good feel for tightening. One way to develop the feel is torque, loosen and manually retighten, then recheck the torque.

All my chucks are Novas and I always follow their printed instructions with installing jaws. That may help. Having developed a calibrated wrist for torquing might help. Have enough chucks so jaws rarely need changing, probably helps the most. For example, for several good reasons I keep 4-5 SN2 chucks with the std 50mm jaws that haven't been removed in years.

JKJ
 
I also have never had a screw come loose on a jaw. I too follow the instructions that I read with my first Nova chuck and use it on all chucks. If you run across a stuck screw take an allen wrench of the correct size and cut off the L. Now you have a drift that fits the top of the screw and a light tap with a hammer is usually enough to be able to break it free.
 
I use Hex Socket screws a lot on projects but I’m not a fan of the *smaller sizes, particularly on Countersunk screws which can self tighten if subjected to vibration.
Nova now use Torx screws on their chucks which are much better in my view,

* It’s not difficult to round off the socket making removal of the screw difficult. I had to drill out a couple of M4 countersunk screws in the past.
 
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