I think I'd like to try a bit of texturing on some of my vessels. I've combed through the discussion archives and I don't see anything that leads me to a decision on what might be the best texture tool(s) I need to consider. Anybody got a recommendation? I spend my energy on doing what I can to bring out the natural beauty of whatever wood I'm working with...so I'm not a blooming embellishment diehard. Maybe try some spiraling or some checkered work. Thanks!
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Texture Tools
- Thread starter Donovan Bailey
- Start date
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I use 2 tools the most. I use a Dremel engraver. I round over the sharp point into a polished tip and then just sort of scribble on the wood. Works best if you outline an area but I've also done entire vessels. The other tool I use most is the Sorby spriraling tool but I rarely use the spiral. I mostly use the texturing cutter to do small areas I have other tools but those 2 get the most use.
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For off the lathe l use a Foredom and a micromotor carver (Mastercarver). For texturing on the lathe my two go tools are an old leather texturing wheel and the Crown spiriling tool. The Crown is very similar to the Sorby but not quite as pricey.
You don't have to buy tools to texture though, you probably have things laying around that you can use. An old butter knife, jig saw blade or paint scraper can all be used as a chatter tool. Chuck up a piece of wood and practice to see if they give you the results you are looking for. Other things I've done to texture is to hold a bolt or screw on its side and lightly tap into the wood. Experiment and have fun!
You don't have to buy tools to texture though, you probably have things laying around that you can use. An old butter knife, jig saw blade or paint scraper can all be used as a chatter tool. Chuck up a piece of wood and practice to see if they give you the results you are looking for. Other things I've done to texture is to hold a bolt or screw on its side and lightly tap into the wood. Experiment and have fun!
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Ditto what Damon said. what ever you have around the shop that will either color or put a dent in the wood work. A dremel with various cutters I use a lot. I pick a cutter and using scrap wood see how many different things I can do with it. poke it, scatch with it, dig in with it, draw lines, draw arcs. Anything just use your imagination. I also use leather stamps to texture the back ground areas. Pyrography is a great way to add texture to turnings. I do test boards to try out ideas.
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A needle scaler is one of my favorites. I bought several sets of needles then modified them. rounded the tip, fine pointed the tip, angle ground for a long sharp edge, then a spherical hollow grind so it makes a ring. Also use an old fashion star wheel dresser and reground the stars to sharp points.
course you could just move the tool rest away from the form......
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In addition to texturing you can also use pyrography and coloring.
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I did a series of videos on the various texturing tools you might want to check out.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJ5xgEHSuJU&list=PLG3S-gdoXeXX3cklwHAzFOwucSXAU8d_b
Is the Sorby Sovereign Texturing and Spiraling set a needlessly expensive tool set? It looks as if it would give all the possible tools for texturing and spiraling. However, it is also $350. Seems like a lot of money. Are there other, less expensive texturing tools which are just as good?
The Sorby Micro texturing/spiraling tool will do most (all?) of the same things well, for a quarter of the price. I have both, but never use the large/expensive one. The small [Micro] is easier to handle and effective. Works well even on fairly large things. I keep thinking of selling the big/expensive one since it remains unused.
@R Henrickson In your opinion, why isn't the larger tool more suitable for larger pieces? Based on the videos online (admittedly at least one is put out by Sorby), it appears that the larger tool creates a different type of pattern compared to the micro tool.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
It all depends on the diameter of the piece and how many teeth are on the tools. With the big tool you have fewer teeth on some wheels and many more teeth per inch on the smaller wheels so you can figure they will give different patterns on on diameter of weed. That's if you just stick them straight in. If you tilt the tool it will produce a spiral and that varies depending on wood diameter and wheel diameter as well. So what it boils down to is you just gotta play. I've been making tool holder to hold the other wheels.so I can instantly change from one tool.to another. That gives me lots of options.
So, to start out, since I turn mostly smaller bowls, it might make sense to invest a lesser amount in a mini-texturing tool set like the Sorby, which has interchangeable wheels and one handle? Experiment with that and see where it goes?
Mike: Great series of videos on texturing that I found extremely useful. I ordered both the Wagner tools plus the micro Sorby set...and I look forward to playing with them. Thank you.
Question for Richard C. Do you shorten the pins on your scaler for texturing? If so any advice on doing so? I assume they are hardened so you might want to avoid overheating.and softenening the metal. Any advice on shaping the needles? Thanks in advance.
Barry W. Larson
Calgary, Alberta, Canada eh!
Tom Gall
TOTW Team
As I recall, I chucked up the needle in a drill and shaped the tip on a sanding belt (or grinder). You might want to wear a leather glove to hold the needle near the end for more control - or, a small tube to act as a sleeve will also work. I believe I also used the same method on a leather wheel with buffing compound to polish the tips, but that's probably overkill and unnecessary. I also use a short length of PVC pipe (1/2"ø ?) over the needles to control the splaying.
Thanks Tom. The PVC pipe is a good idea. I was going to use a thick rubber band.
Cheers.
Barry
I use the Sorbey Texturing system, both large & small. These wheels do a nice job of texturing and spiraling with many different patterns. Check out the itube’s on these tools.
Thanks Tim. I have the smaller Sorby tool, but I'm looking at ways of making different texture patterns and texturing areas that aren't circular.
Cheers.
Barry
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If you're focused on the beauty of the wood and figure, I would suggest focusing on tools to "frame" portions of your form rather than compete with them. While I like the Sorby spiraling tool, I find grooves (v cuts), beads, and coves (in varying combinations) can do a great deal to focus attention where you want it. I would suggest adding a D-way beading tool to your bag of tricks.