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The combination of speed, sharpness, presentation.....and sensual awareness....reaching that critical equilibrium.

Odie

Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
Joined
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There is a reason why router and shaper bits are run at super high speeds.....speed makes for a cleaner cut until the sharpness of the cutting edge is the undermining factor. Another consideration is carving tools are used in a extremely slow cutting speed, comparatively speaking. If a carver is getting clean cuts, the sharpness is the most important determining factor, along with direction of cut according to wood grain (presentation). A lathe turner doesn't have the luxury of high rpm, so an equilibrium between speed and sharpness is a critical factor. Most bowls are done "cross grain", and because of that, there is more resistance to the cut with the end grain, than it has with the long grain. There is nothing you can do about this, but you can minimize it's effect on your ability to get the cleanest cut possible.

Another consideration, is the inherent vibration at a given rpm, compounded by the harmonic vibration created by the cutting edge as it cuts the wood. These things must be taken into consideration, as well......because any vibration of the wood at all, will prevent a sharp cutting edge from achieving the cleanest cut that is possible under the most desirable of conditions. You may not achieve the most absolute perfect of conditions, but getting as close to it as possible should be the goal. Generally, the faster the rpm, the more potential for high intensity vibration there is to spoil a cleanly executed cut.....this would be the inherent vibration between spinning wood, and lathe ability to absorb it......while the harmonic vibration can be felt, seen and heard through your senses. One source of vibration can be adjusted through variation of rpm, while the other can be manipulated through adjusting tool presentation while in the act of turning.....(this is the heart of spiritual turning)

As a newbie, I tended to run lathe rpm at speeds that I'd currently consider potentially hazardous.....but, surface speed does allow a cleaner cut with a tool that isn't as sharp as it could be. A newbie might think this is his "eureka" moment, but he still has a few things to learn yet! At the very center of the foot, or very center of a bowl interior, you should be able to get a clean cut right up to the very center. This is the kind of sharpness that carvers expect, and if you can't do that, then you either didn't start with a sharp enough tool, or you have let it get too dull before taking a trip back to the grinder (or re-hone).

The equilibrium is reached when a combination of best rpm, sharp tool, best presentation, along with using your senses to make presentation adjustments as necessary.

-----odie-----
 
Always thought provoking. The other factor not mentioned that absolutely relates to this is the speed of cut - that is how fast one moves the gouge/chisel in relation to the rotating wood. I've been casually playing around with this variable, and am finding that when I slow down - sometimes just a hair, good things happen.
 
Another consideration is carving tools are used in a extremely slow cutting speed, comparatively speaking. If a carver is getting clean cuts, the sharpness is the most important determining factor, along with direction of cut according to wood grain (presentation).

Hand carving is quite slow. Rotary carving can be pretty high rpm.
My foredom runs around 18,000 rpm. Micro motors at 50,000 rpm.
There is an equilibrium speed for carving too. Combinations of wood and bits will work better at different speeds.
High speeds will often burn the wood. High speed in piercing often burns the wood.
 
Early on I would fret over not running my lathe at breakneck speeds like the pros did on youtube and thought faster was always better. It took me a while to understand that RPM is not the only part of the equation. Most all of what I turn starts as a good sized green wet log, often out of round and odd shaped. You start where you can on speed, work it a little, speed up a bit, work it more, reposition the piece, slow back down, etc. You also have to adjust how fast you move the cut, how the wood is responding ( willow vs oak vs mesquite), are you on the outer perimeter or near the center, is your tool sharp, if you spin it faster will the tall sides on the deep natural edge bowl flex too much, etc, etc. I suspect we all learn to watch, listen and feel for the balance. Most all of the time my poor cut issues are a dull tool, not speed.

Net, I seldom even look at my rpm indicator. Thinking on it I listen more than look. If my tool is sharp, the cuts are clean and I'm not fighting the work I don't really care if I'm at 600 RPM or 900 RPM.
 
I have discovered there is no such thing as bad wood. If I am having a bad cut 99% of the time I need to sharpen. Beyond that I do believe "sensual awareness" is a big factor. If it don't feel right something is wrong....speed,sharp, approach.
 
There is a reason why router and shaper bits are run at super high speeds.....speed makes for a cleaner cut until the sharpness of the cutting edge is the undermining factor. Another consideration is carving tools are used in a extremely slow cutting speed, comparatively speaking. If a carver is getting clean cuts, the sharpness is the most important determining factor, along with direction of cut according to wood grain (presentation). A lathe turner doesn't have the luxury of high rpm, so an equilibrium between speed and sharpness is a critical factor. Most bowls are done "cross grain", and because of that, there is more resistance to the cut with the end grain, than it has with the long grain. There is nothing you can do about this, but you can minimize it's effect on your ability to get the cleanest cut possible.

Another consideration, is the inherent vibration at a given rpm, compounded by the harmonic vibration created by the cutting edge as it cuts the wood. These things must be taken into consideration, as well......because any vibration of the wood at all, will prevent a sharp cutting edge from achieving the cleanest cut that is possible under the most desirable of conditions. You may not achieve the most absolute perfect of conditions, but getting as close to it as possible should be the goal. Generally, the faster the rpm, the more potential for high intensity vibration there is to spoil a cleanly executed cut.....this would be the inherent vibration between spinning wood, and lathe ability to absorb it......while the harmonic vibration can be felt, seen and heard through your senses. One source of vibration can be adjusted through variation of rpm, while the other can be manipulated through adjusting tool presentation while in the act of turning.....(this is the heart of spiritual turning)

As a newbie, I tended to run lathe rpm at speeds that I'd currently consider potentially hazardous.....but, surface speed does allow a cleaner cut with a tool that isn't as sharp as it could be. A newbie might think this is his "eureka" moment, but he still has a few things to learn yet! At the very center of the foot, or very center of a bowl interior, you should be able to get a clean cut right up to the very center. This is the kind of sharpness that carvers expect, and if you can't do that, then you either didn't start with a sharp enough tool, or you have let it get too dull before taking a trip back to the grinder (or re-hone).

The equilibrium is reached when a combination of best rpm, sharp tool, best presentation, along with using your senses to make presentation adjustments as necessary.

-----odie-----
Over the years, I got more custom to the sound/vibration of the perfect cut that is taking place. Obviously the speed/angle/tool is extremely important, but I've learned over the years to listen to the cutting sound/vibration that it has a certain pitch that I've become accustomed to. I know this is extremely difficult to explain until you experience it and remember that perfect sound/vibration.
 
I know this is extremely difficult to explain until you experience it

This is very true ^^^^^

.....and, even some very experienced turners never reach this threshold.....while continuing to produce works where it's obvious that power sanding is that which bridges the gap their imprecise tool work leaves to be dealt with.

-----odie-----
 
If a woodturner would wear a blindfold for several days while they turn billets on the lathe they would bring their turning
skills to the next level. A heightened sense of feeling the cutting edge of the tool along with the angle of the tool contacting the
wood billet is what the wood turner needs to fully comprehend. Every tool has a sweet spot that needs to be learned from many hours
of use. If you haven't used a particular tool or grind, it can take time to relearn the skilled technique for the tool. Turning on a daily basis
helps to keep the skill level and techniques progressing.
 
If a woodturner would wear a blindfold for several days while they turn billets on the lathe they would bring their turning
skills to the next level. A heightened sense of feeling the cutting edge of the tool along with the angle of the tool contacting the
wood billet is what the wood turner needs to fully comprehend. Every tool has a sweet spot that needs to be learned from many hours
of use. If you haven't used a particular tool or grind, it can take time to relearn the skilled technique for the tool. Turning on a daily basis
helps to keep the skill level and techniques progressing.

Never thought about the blindfold, but I suspect you are right, Mike.

It would certainly add to the progress in attaining skills......but sight is an element in the total equation, too.

Makes you wonder about how some blind and other handicapped people acquire additional heightened skills with their other senses....and it sometimes seems that a seeing and hearing people tend to be the ones who are actually handicapped!!!!!

-----odie-----
 
I remember the first bowl I ever turned; I was intensely focused on the tool contacting the wood blank with an iron grip on the tool handle. After turning a hundred bowls and learning to properly sharpen the tools, I was more relaxed with holding the tool and not focused on watching the
tool cutting the wood blank. A few more years turning various items you let the tool do the work and let it guide you with feedback from the tool
handle in your hand to your brain. A few more years of turning various materials and products you can visualize the proper geometry of the cutting edge of the tool removing the material from the work piece by the feedback of the tool in your hand. Sooner or later every woodturner will have that Zen moment when it all comes together after years of working the tools.
 
I remember the first bowl I ever turned; I was intensely focused on the tool contacting the wood blank with an iron grip on the tool handle. After turning a hundred bowls and learning to properly sharpen the tools, I was more relaxed with holding the tool and not focused on watching the
tool cutting the wood blank. A few more years turning various items you let the tool do the work and let it guide you with feedback from the tool
handle in your hand to your brain. A few more years of turning various materials and products you can visualize the proper geometry of the cutting edge of the tool removing the material from the work piece by the feedback of the tool in your hand. Sooner or later every woodturner will have that Zen moment when it all comes together after years of working the tools.

I just recently, after a year of turning, realized that I was compensating for poor presentation with brute force. Once that hit me, I have started focusing on using the least possible pressure. If it’s not cutting, I adjust the angle or tool rest until it does.

Im also practicing a lot of tops and mushrooms now. Our club is doing a demo at a local woodworking show, and I will be one of the demonstrators, so I need to be good at something fast &easy.

Between the lighter touch and back to basics I feel like I have improved more in last 2weeks than previous 6months.
 
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