for anyone interested, i've got a couple tips for turning those nice wooden travel mugs you see in the turners catalogs for about $9.95 just for the stainless inserts.
first, go to hobby lobby if you have one nearby, if not go online to hobbylobby.com they sell a complete plastic/stainless cup for about $4.00 just disasemble it and you have the same insert, some have a screw in the bottom under the price tag, unscrew it and you have the same insert you'd have paid 9.95 for. i've had to put some on the lathe and cut the plastic then break out the lip, but most come apart by taking the screw out. great savings!
next tip, if you really want to keep your drinks hot or cold, make your mug a little bigger than what is suggested, then taper it down to fit the rim, but open up the inside diameter of your turning more than usual, 1/8th to 1/4 is ok or more. now before you install the stainless insert and before you finish, fit it up as usual, then get some of that non expanding spray foam insulation to use around doors and windows and fill your wooden cavity about 1/2 full, you'll have to experiment a little here to see what comes to the top, but be aware, it does expand,don't overfill, you have some time to fit and refit, but dont fill it too far, and with porous wood it will actually come through the wood. foam it about 1/2 to 3/4 full and stick the stainless insert in it but wear gloves and be sure to put it in your lathe with a tenon to insert into the mug from the tailstock to keep it all in place, otherwise it'll blow out!! you might have foam beading out for a few hours but dont worry, tomorrow, just scratch off the yellow foam, sand lightly and finish. the other thing is just have some acetone on hand, it will clean up the wood after the yellow bubbles are scratched off and also your hands and fingers. i like to wipe off the leaks for an hour or so before it sets up with the acetone, it doesn't affect the final finish on the wood at all. now you really have an insulated travel mug that works and you can appreciate!!!!
first, go to hobby lobby if you have one nearby, if not go online to hobbylobby.com they sell a complete plastic/stainless cup for about $4.00 just disasemble it and you have the same insert, some have a screw in the bottom under the price tag, unscrew it and you have the same insert you'd have paid 9.95 for. i've had to put some on the lathe and cut the plastic then break out the lip, but most come apart by taking the screw out. great savings!
next tip, if you really want to keep your drinks hot or cold, make your mug a little bigger than what is suggested, then taper it down to fit the rim, but open up the inside diameter of your turning more than usual, 1/8th to 1/4 is ok or more. now before you install the stainless insert and before you finish, fit it up as usual, then get some of that non expanding spray foam insulation to use around doors and windows and fill your wooden cavity about 1/2 full, you'll have to experiment a little here to see what comes to the top, but be aware, it does expand,don't overfill, you have some time to fit and refit, but dont fill it too far, and with porous wood it will actually come through the wood. foam it about 1/2 to 3/4 full and stick the stainless insert in it but wear gloves and be sure to put it in your lathe with a tenon to insert into the mug from the tailstock to keep it all in place, otherwise it'll blow out!! you might have foam beading out for a few hours but dont worry, tomorrow, just scratch off the yellow foam, sand lightly and finish. the other thing is just have some acetone on hand, it will clean up the wood after the yellow bubbles are scratched off and also your hands and fingers. i like to wipe off the leaks for an hour or so before it sets up with the acetone, it doesn't affect the final finish on the wood at all. now you really have an insulated travel mug that works and you can appreciate!!!!