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Update on my Vicmarc 240 lathe

Joined
Feb 15, 2018
Messages
256
Likes
64
Location
Canton, GA
Some of you may have read my thread where I detailed that I had sold my Laguna Revo 24-36 and bought a Vicmarc 240. I detailed there where I had challenges stalling out both of these lathes. This is a follow up to tell you what I discovered--the Revo from Laguna I sold to a fellow who is an industry expert electrician--he works for a firm that maintains and repairs bottling machines for big industry, such as Coca Cola and large dairies, like the one that bottles milk for the Kroger grocery stores--long story short he told me he discovered what the problem was with that lathe--that the contacts for the input voltage to the VFD were not solid--he told me he re-did these connections and it cleared up the problem with the digital readout not being stable, and he hasn't stalled the lathe in any of his work on it.
Now to my Vicmarc--first off my distributor, Woodworkers Emporium and Vicmarc have been great at standing behind the product, and talking things through with me. Long story short, Woodworkers Emporium asked that I check the grub screws on the pulley wheel set on the spindle--these grub screws were not present--I also decided to pull the spindle just to see how everything went together--this is when I discovered what the monkey in the wrench was! There was no key in the spindle key way. I was actually surprised I could do the turning I could without stalling the lathe giving this factor. Fortunately I am a knifemaker and had steel in stock I made a key out of that fit the key slot on the spindle, I haven't stalled the lathe since!
I think this just goes to show any outfit can miss something small like this key, and even if they tested the lathe before they shipped it (not sure if they do or don't) it would likely not be obvious, as it wasn't to me except in extreme turning stress situations. I have turned a good bit on my Vicmarc, and I am really liking it at this point.
The one detail that disappoints me a lot, was one I didn't check into when looking at lathes--this is the shortness of the tailstock quill--it is only 3 inches in travel/length. Thus my post on having a custom tailstock made. I am currently looking into how to get a longer quill/new tailstock for my lathe at this time.
The pivoting headstock works really well, and had helped eliminate back pain from leaning over to hollow bowls over the bed--a real plus--I still wonder if I might should have gone to the bigger swing and 3 HP motor of the Vic 300, but I think I will be satisfied with the 19+ inch swing of the 240, especially since I think I've go my power issues resolved.


Any feedback/questions are welcomed==
Regards--Don
 
Great to hear you sorted out the power issue!
I think the short quill on vicmarc lathes is their achilles heel. Even my VL300 only has 80mm travel. Luckily most of my drilling is around the 60mm mark but having 100mm (4") travel would be better.
 
Be sure that Vicmarc is aware of the missing grub screws and spindle key. I'm assuming this key is between the belt pulley and spindle. I can easily see how this situation could result in major damage to both. Whoever is responsible for the error should be made aware, so that steps can be taken for it to not happen again.

I think you'll find that 19" swing is near perfect, and you probably won't have too much opportunity to turn larger. The swing on my Woodfast is 16", and I rarely have access to wood that is bigger than I can turn on it. You'll find that the horizons of imagination have very little to do with size! :D

-----odie-----
 
Missing parts from a high dollar machine means they need to change the method they use in assembling their machines to avoid these kinds of issues. Missing key-stock is a critical component in a rotating machine, whomever assembled the machine did a poor job of accounting for a proper assembly. Many companies count and lay out all of the components for each machine to assure a proper assembly process. This sounds like a Monday morning assembled piece of equipment or a rookie was being trained to do the assembly.
 
I agree with what you folks have said re: the assembly details--but I have a background in Mfg. and stuff happens--this lathe operated reasonably unless the turning was put under high stress, so as I stated even if a function test was performed this lathe would have likely passed a normal parameters functionality test.
Odie, I appreciate your input--so far I only have one piece of wood ever that would require accommodating with a larger swing--so I'm hoping you are correct.
I have apprised Vicmarc and Woodworkers Emporium of the entire case on this lathe, and must say they have been very supportive in all their communications with me.
I'm looking forward to this lathe serving me well for a long time, but I continue to investigate how I might obtain a Magma Black Titan lathe for a reasonable shipping expense!
 
Stuff does happen in manufacturing... Worst one I ever saw was on a wood stove I got. They ran through all the possibilities about why it wouldn't draw, and having had wood stoves for years, I knew all of them. Well, the technician comes out to check on it. Turns out the blower on the front of the stove and a strip of sheet metal that totally closed off the intake.... Snip off a 3/4 by 6 inch piece of sheet metal and it worked the way it was supposed to.... How that one ever got out the door is a mystery to me.... Just too obvious. With Vicmarc, they have exceptional quality. None better, and right up with Oneway and Robust. Not much experience with the other brands.

robo hippy
 
Just an observation on drilling.....espically drilling green wood......when drilling a depth hole for the hf or bowl I only drill 1 inch....pull out ........clear debris.....drill 1 inch....clear debris.....most of my calabash zia series are about 5 or 6 inches deep.....anyway if I drill the 5 or 6 inches all at once.....the wood will tighten on the drill bit.....next is an hour long struggle to get bit out.....maybe I'm the only one with this green wood phenomenon
 
Just an observation on drilling.....espically drilling green wood......when drilling a depth hole for the hf or bowl I only drill 1 inch....pull out ........clear debris.....drill 1 inch....clear debris.....most of my calabash zia series are about 5 or 6 inches deep.....anyway if I drill the 5 or 6 inches all at once.....the wood will tighten on the drill bit.....next is an hour long struggle to get bit out.....maybe I'm the only one with this green wood phenomenon

Charlie - you are nit the Lone Ranger on this!

A short bit at a time is about the only way to drill green wood or even dry wood with a twist drill.
The depth before clearing will vary with the wood and the current depth of the hole but the drill bit will have to be backed out to clear the shavings.

Compressed air blown in to a hole behind a Forster bit or spade bit will clear the shavings for continuous drilling.

A gun drill used by Trent Bosch has a hollow tube that lets compressed air out near the tip which evacuates the shaving for continuous drilling.
 
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Just an observation on drilling.....espically drilling green wood......when drilling a depth hole for the hf or bowl I only drill 1 inch....pull out ........clear debris.....drill 1 inch....clear debris.....most of my calabash zia series are about 5 or 6 inches deep.....anyway if I drill the 5 or 6 inches all at once.....the wood will tighten on the drill bit.....next is an hour long struggle to get bit out.....maybe I'm the only one with this green wood phenomenon
I agree.

I own a oneway with a four inch travel and over the years every time I attempt to bore in more than 2” without clearing I almost always get into trouble. The oneway Morse taper does not secure any 3mt accessories until about 3/4 inch. Limiting my bore to less than 2 inches with chip clearing allows me safely bore starter holes for deep hollowing. I don’t use the 3 1/4 effective travel that the oneway provides . I’m using 2 3/4 travel so 3 inch travel is more than one needs to get my prehollowing done.
I ve bored in with extenders over 15 inches and once a 24” pepper mill.

I do at times extend the tailstock the full 4 inches to allow for room curtain cuts. This can be further extended by using a Morse taper extender at the tailstock. The disadvantage of this or a longer tailstock with more travel on a short bed lathe is your reducing the maximum size of the wok that could be held between centers. This could be a big trade off.
 
Al, I guess I was still typing when you posted. Yes, there are many variables when boring including grain orientation, moisture content, size of hole, configuration of bit etc. Unlike metal, boring into wood is not as predictable. The deeper you go, the more chance for problems
 
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Advancing the drill bit and extracting the drill bit in small advances helps clear the wood shavings and reduces the wear on the drill bit. Advancing the drill bit too far at a time usually plugs up shavings behind the drill bit and hinders retraction and heats up the wood billet causing other issues. When the shavings on the drill bit catch on fire after retracting you are drilling too fast, too hard and your bit needs sharpening. :) In certain woods when I needed to drill deep holes I would keep a spray bottle of water by the lathe to cool the drill bit down after retracting each time during long drilling sessions. Hot drill bits and hot dry wood dust are not a good mix when a lump of hot coal drops into shavings on the floor.
 
The drilling info is old news to me, but I appreciate the input...there are several operations I perform where I prefer a longer tailstock quill--so the 3 inch quill on the Vicmarc is limiting to me--I continue to see what I can do about this, I'm currently pursuing a different tailstock-im my drilling process I withdraw the bit frequently to discharge swarf--I even keep a stiff bristled brush nearby for cleaning up the bit that I am using-so clearing swarf is good in practice IMO too. My next hurdle to clear is getting the feet on the lathe leveled, I lost the leveling bolts somewhere in the setup/cleanup process, I just got in several replacement bolts from McMaster Carr, so I will be pursuing this once I get some help--bending down to work on floor level is extremely difficult for me with me defective legs :(
Since I replaced the missing key in the spindle slot, this lathe hasn't missed a beat--I'm very pleased in general
 
seems to me a belt slip is not entirely a bad thing.....hopefully I just presented the tool incorrectly.....who me.....better the belt slip than broken arm or blank explode with incalculable injuries.....course the speed is a multiplier in those types of revelations
 
seems to me a belt slip is not entirely a bad thing.....hopefully I just presented the tool incorrectly.....who me.....better the belt slip than broken arm or blank explode with incalculable injuries.....course the speed is a multiplier in those types of revelations

Maybe if it were just the belt, but in this case it was the the pulley spinning on the spindle which is not a good thing.
 
I agree with what you folks have said re: the assembly details--but I have a background in Mfg. and stuff happens--this lathe operated reasonably unless the turning was put under high stress, so as I stated even if a function test was performed this lathe would have likely passed a normal parameters functionality test.
Odie, I appreciate your input--so far I only have one piece of wood ever that would require accommodating with a larger swing--so I'm hoping you are correct.
I have apprised Vicmarc and Woodworkers Emporium of the entire case on this lathe, and must say they have been very supportive in all their communications with me.
I'm looking forward to this lathe serving me well for a long time, but I continue to investigate how I might obtain a Magma Black Titan lathe for a reasonable shipping expense!
Sent you a PM
 
I agree with what you folks have said re: the assembly details--but I have a background in Mfg. and stuff happens--this lathe operated reasonably unless the turning was put under high stress, so as I stated even if a function test was performed this lathe would have likely passed a normal parameters functionality test.
Odie, I appreciate your input--so far I only have one piece of wood ever that would require accommodating with a larger swing--so I'm hoping you are correct.
I have apprised Vicmarc and Woodworkers Emporium of the entire case on this lathe, and must say they have been very supportive in all their communications with me.
I'm looking forward to this lathe serving me well for a long time, but I continue to investigate how I might obtain a Magma Black Titan lathe for a reasonable shipping expense!
Just got a quote for importing A Magma Blackline Titan (my dream). It is $2500.00 for freight excluding duties and broker fees.
 
I knew shipping had gone up but it has more than doubled since I got my Titan 400 in late 2016. Vicmarc lathes are probably seeing comparable increases.
Jim, I did import a Vicmarc 240 ASM HD EVS from Canada. $600.00 shipping and $120.00 import fees. Not a Titan but it is a very nice lathe. Really like the swivel headstock and the way it locks right back in perfect alignment.
 
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