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Vector Grind Fixture

Joined
Apr 20, 2006
Messages
1,586
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1,425
Location
Erie, PA
For those of you who have and use the Vector Grind Fixture JoHannes has a new video on how to sharpen all your tools on the system. Here is the link.

 
Thanks Bill! His video shows me that the fixture is a lot more versatile than I thought. I like the way it is able to sharpen a SRG, but now it looks like I will want to get that thimble tool too. I know others will say that they can sharpen the SRG by hand with one are tied behind their back (and other tools). More power to them; I like the aid of fixtures or jigs and spending more time on turning!
 
I’ve had my positions scribed on my Wolverine arms, like he mentioned for years. When my new CBN wheels arrive and I put my Rikon grinder in service, along with my new Wolverine system, I’m going to put scribe lines on it as well. The only thing I need to make sure I do is to measure the height of the Rikon 1hp grinder vs, the Steel City 3/4 hp grinder I am currently using. I do have the Raptor set up templates, so I have more than one way to make the angle adjustments for set up. I’m getting a new 180 grit wheel, and a 600 grit. Supposed to be shipped on or near Jan. 15th.
 
I tried the scribing of the Wolverine support arms, but - it did not give me an exact return to the distance I had before, without a lot of fiddling and fidgeting. So, I bought some extra support arms and added a stop collar to each one. Then each arm is painted with a color that corresponds to the color of electrical tape wrapped on the ferrule or steel where the steel is set into the handle.

I just ordered the Vector grind fixture and am curious as to how I can get an exact point -of-return...I am considering drilling a small hole at the locations needed, and using an Allen wrench to drop in the hole for a "stop". Make sense?
 
Personally, I like the idea of using a length of aluminum angle or split PVC pipe to mark the distance for the v arm pull out. It's cheap, easy to label in detail and repeatable. It doesn't decrease the resale value, either. And if I were to change grinders, they are easy enough to remake.
 
I would be using cheater sticks if I had this set up. Slide the rest up to which ever stick you are using, and grind. Exactly repeatable every single time. You may need to have different sets for different grinders, but no having to mess with it every time to get it exactly correct.

robo hippy
 
I use a Wolverine system. No need to split the PVC pipe ( a smaller ID can be used) - just put it into the pocket and butt the other end against the tubular frame. For the Vector system you can drill a hole in the PVC for a glued in pin to register onto the plate and butt the other end against the frame. Much more accurate than scribing or drawing lines on the tube. This has all been discussed before if you do a search.
 
Personally, I like the idea of using a length of aluminum angle or split PVC pipe to mark the distance for the v arm pull out. It's cheap, easy to label in detail and repeatable. It doesn't decrease the resale value, either. And if I were to change grinders, they are easy enough to remake.
This is the method I use. I painted the split PVC and wrote on it the gouges it is for. When in use this piece is locked in place so I can easily tell what the arm is set for.
 
I am not really familiar with the vector grind set up. My question about it is does it do anything that I can't do as a platform sharpener?

robo hippy
 
JoHannes used nothing for decades besides his hands and body along with a platform, so yes you don't NEED a vector platform. But the amount of twist and push to get that thin facet at the flute is incredibly hard to learn by hand. The vector platform does it in seconds with very little learning curve. With this grind it is jaw dropping just how flat you can keep the flute and run down the inside of a bowl. I bought two of his gouges at a demo and ended up putting them on a shelf. I just could not duplicate his movement. Now It takes seconds to touch up the bevel.
 
Plus the fact for the ordinary turner that cannot really free hand grind the fixture allows you to sharpen that gouge as long as you have a 1/2" of flute left. Now with his added pieces it's even better.
 
I also use split pieces of PVC pipe marked to show the nose angle. The advantage of the split pipe is that it can remain on the bar until you want to change the angle and gives instant indication of the current setting.

Another tip: If you are using CBN wheels on both ends of the grinder (which will maintain a constant diameter), take the time to adjust the positions of the varigrind bases relative to the wheels such that any given PVC gauge produces the same nose angle for both wheels. This halves the number of PVC sections needed.
 
I attempted to respond to this thread a few minutes ago but can't seem to see my response so maybe it got lost. If I am duplicating here, I apologize in advance. I have a 3/4" bowl gouge and I need to know if it will fit in the Vector Grind Fixture; and if it fits in the gouge holder, will the L plate be necessary for the setting device that comes with the kit? Also, what is the maximum size of gouge that will fit the gouge holder? Also, does anyone use the shaft collars, do they work well and are they useful?
 
I have a 3/4" bowl gouge and I need to know if it will fit in the Vector Grind Fixture; and if it fits in the gouge holder, will the L plate be necessary for the setting device that comes with the kit? Also, what is the maximum size of gouge that will fit the gouge holder? Also, does anyone use the shaft collars, do they work well and are they useful?
A 3/4" bowl gouge will easily fit in the gouge holder. I have a 1 1/4" SRG that will not fit the gouge holder. I don't have any 1" gouges but I do think one would fit. I use a couple of shaft collars, the second one on a wolverine jig, so I find them useful. I don't have the L plate so I don't find it necessary for using the system.
 
A 3/4" bowl gouge will easily fit in the gouge holder. I have a 1 1/4" SRG that will not fit the gouge holder. I don't have any 1" gouges but I do think one would fit. I use a couple of shaft collars, the second one on a wolverine jig, so I find them useful. I don't have the L plate so I don't find it necessary for using the system.
Thanks James, I really appreciate your help on this, although my wife may not $$$$ .
 
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