Welcoming advice on designing a woodturning shop

[Larry Zarra]

Hi All, I am looking for advice, recommendations and design/layout suggestions for building a workshop primarily devoted to woodturning. I am new to the forum but not new to woodturning. I have been actively woodturning since 1995, and an AAW member since 1997.
I moved a lot for work, so was always fitting woodturning into a different garage space. My last home had a detached 16' x 30' workshop space with heat, AC, 220, epoxied concrete floor, and drywall finished and painted walls. It was a great space, but we moved one more time, and now I want (need) to build a workshop centered around woodturning. I have looked at lots of woodworker shop layouts and shop tours, mostly in Fine Woodworking, but they are furniture focused, and usually have the lathe shoved into a corner. I mostly turn large to small scale bowls and vessels. Big stuff is turned on a Oneway 2436, and small stuff is done on a Oneway 1018. Other items taking up floor space in the shop include a table saw, 16" bandsaw, 2 large work benches, storage racks, grinders, drill press, dust collector, air compressors, and the typical assortment of workshop tools and accessories.
I would greatly appreciate advice from others who have built a shop primarily for woodturning, and am hoping to learn from other's experience. I'm thinking of building (OK, having built) a new stand-alone shop that is no smaller than the last one. While space to build is more than ample, the new shop should be no bigger than it has to be. Heat and AC are essential, and wood flooring is very important. Shop use will be 95% turning, and 5% carving & miscellaneous projects. New location is in semi-rural Hunterdon County, New Jersey. A sample of my work can be viewed at larryzarra.com Thank You in advance for all replies!

 

[Steve Tiedman]

My first shop was dedicated to turning and I was limited to building a 10x12 shed building. Concrete floor, fully insulated, permanent electric fan heater, and a couple small windows for the summer season. I installed a 240v, 60a sub-panel in it. Inside was my lathe on a short wall, and a 2'x8' workbench on a long wall with a shelf underneath. I had a benchtop drill press and small belt/disc sander on the bench and a portable tablesaw that lived below the bench. Some small tool boxes and other stuff stored under the bench, too. My 14" Delta bandsaw was the only other tool I had on the floor along the other short wall next to the door. I used a 20" square window fan with a high efficiency air filter taped to it behind the lathe for dust control. And there were a few shelves mounted on the other long wall for misc. storage. A small collection of wood was kept outside in the shade, on a pallet, with a tarp over the top. I'd guess all of this left about 30% of my floor open for moving around. And I turned wood.

 

[Larry Zarra]

My first shop was dedicated to turning and I was limited to building a 10x12 shed building. Concrete floor, fully insulated, permanent electric fan heater, and a couple small windows for the summer season. I installed a 240v, 60a sub-panel in it. Inside was my lathe on a short wall, and a 2'x8' workbench on a long wall with a shelf underneath. I had a benchtop drill press and small belt/disc sander on the bench and a portable tablesaw that lived below the bench. Some small tool boxes and other stuff stored under the bench, too. My 14" Delta bandsaw was the only other tool I had on the floor along the other short wall next to the door. I used a 20" square window fan with a high efficiency air filter taped to it behind the lathe for dust control. And there were a few shelves mounted on the other long wall for misc. storage. A small collection of wood was kept outside in the shade, on a pallet, with a tarp over the top. I'd guess all of this left about 30% of my floor open for moving around. And I turned wood.

Steve, Thank you for sharing your story. Larry

 

[Jim Reynolds]

I went to your website. I like your work. I'm facing a similar problem, moved, have to recreate shop space, mine will be in the basement so dust and noise are additional considerations. I suggest sound isolating the compressor and dust collector. I am going to install a wooden floor insulated with 1 1/2" pink board. OSB and plywood on top and then filled and painted. This should make standing more comfortable and feet warmer. Good luck with this endeavor.

 

[Dave Landers]

Had my new 30'x22' shop built this summer, moved in mid-November. Ceiling is 11' to the cross-members, 14' to the peak.
There's 6 8' LED strips, 8000 lumens each, 5000K color temp (adjustable down to 3500K).
Walls painted white (eggshell) for light distribution.
Walls are all OSB so I can attach anything anywhere.
Here's my current rough layout:

I have a 100A service (sub-panel off the house) and it's all 20A outlets. Quad 120v about every 5' and 220v about every 10'.
The lathe is in one corner and I stand between the lathe and the wall (and I can see the mountains the the window on the opposite wall) . All my turning tools are on the wall behind me (some less-used tools are on the short section of wall near the headstock. Other items are in the tool cabinet next to the headstock. Both my grinders are just behind me - one on either side. I can reach everything I need while turning with less than two steps.
Along the long wall (top of the drawing) I ran duct for the dust collector - there's a gate at the lathe, each of the saws and a sanding station (not pictured). I also ran copper pipe along that wall and half way along each of the short walls. Have 5 drops with a filter/regulator spaced around (one has an overhead reel). I capped the ends such that it'd be easy to extend that all the way around someday.
Wood storage (and chainsaw/PPE storage) is next to the garage door (opens out onto the driveway). I left about 4+ feet from the door to the corner so I could put shelves long-way there - sheet goods store against that wall and the shelves are screwed to the wall so I can lean plywood against them if needed.
Desk for carving/finishing/etc near the window (for view plus ventilation in the summer).
Bench right in the middle, with plenty of floor space all around.
Enclosed-combustion heater hanging from the wall over the table saw. Don't need A/C here. Thermostat has an app on my phone so I can warm things up before I head out (or turn it down if I'm not going out).
A coat rack (7-point elk antler screwed to the wall) is next to the door so I can hang my jacket and pick up my smock and safety glasses on the way in.

Here's a panorama photo taken from the door (lower right in the drawing):

 

[Richard Coers]

Seems to me you have plenty of stuff that is not needed for a turning shop. One bench is plenty, a table saw only helps if you do segmented work, dust collector can be installed in a corner or outside, and best of all, you can put things back to back since no long ripping needs to be done. Taunton press put out a great book on workshops. A mini split is definitely the perfect system for a/c and heating, so you really need to go bigger than a 60 amp panel.

 

[hockenbery]

Shop use will be 95% turning, and 5% carving & miscellaneous projects.

A couple of things we enjoy in our shop is light and running water. We have a sink in the work area. And a drying room/ office with a bathroom and stove less kitchen. We run a dehumidifier at 50% year round.

The office is a nice place to do non dusty work.

You know the obvious spacing and workflow. Bandsaw, lathe, grinder, drill press, workbench, cabinet storage. Othe stationary tools
Considerations for dust collector and compressors.


Lighting is high on our list.
We went to a lighting store. Told the guy we wanted to hang the lights at 14 feet off the floor. Told him we moslty worked from 3-4 feet off the floor. The guy plugged our floor plan into a program. It came back with locations for 10 fluorescent fixtures and we had what the guy called daylight or better in the whole work area except for one corner. We rented a scissor jack platform a 1000% better than a ladder. Hung the lights in a weekend. Lighting was great when we flipped the switch.

Flooring is another consideration we have a concrete pad and fatigue mats at every machine except the bandsaw.

 

[Larry Zarra]

I went to your website. I like your work. I'm facing a similar problem, moved, have to recreate shop space, mine will be in the basement so dust and noise are additional considerations. I suggest sound isolating the compressor and dust collector. I am going to install a wooden floor insulated with 1 1/2" pink board. OSB and plywood on top and then filled and painted. This should make standing more comfortable and feet warmer. Good luck with this endeavor.

Jim, Thank you for relating your situation. I definitely want to isolate the dust collectors and air compressors to suppress some of the associated noise. I'm thinking of a narrow closet type of space that will let me move the floor based dust collector for periodic emptying. Even with an inside wall for a closet space, some insulation may help dampen noise and possible vibration. Also need to consider space in closet for air compressors, one small pancake, and one larger. Would also like a shelf with framed inlet to shop for hanging Jet dust collector. Good luck with your basement space. I'll be interested to hear how it develops.

 

[Dean Center]

My turning shop is also 10X12. It's not ideal, but it's adequate for a lathe, band saw, air cleaner, compressor, vacuum, and workbench, with a dust collector on the other side of the wall. All that flat woodworking stuff is what needs lots of space. With that in mind, maybe those Fine Woodworking articles apply after all, as most of your space is not turning related.

Having a reduced dust, properly ventilated, and warm space for embellishment and finishing would be good, either carved out of our current space by moving out the flat wood tools, or in a separate space, if you are going to add a building.

 

[JeffSmith]

When we moved into our retirement home 8 years ago, it needed to have a shop built to accommodate turning primarily, but needed to function for flat work, too. Spent a long time with cutouts of my equipment and a floor plan, moving stuff around until I thought it would work.I wound up with a 20 x 24 main floor, 13 x 22 or rice/guest room loft over. I worked with the retired architect that drew the house we bought to get the exterior similar to our home. The 24’ wide front opens with shop-built bi-fold doors. The lathe is at the front of the shop so, with the doors open the view is of the fir forest we live in and the creek flowing in the ravine next to the shop. Storage and countertops take up 24” along one wall with large windows above. There’s a deck on the back so I can roll equipment on mobile bases out of the way when doing the ocasional flatwork project. The table saw is at my back when turning and a large outfeed table does double duty as an assembly table with storage under.

Led strip lights over the assembly table are nice and bright, recessed led lights over the turning area are augmented with led strip lights directly over the lathe.

Upstairs is an office/guest room when needed. The dust collection and compressors are in the crawl space out of sight and hearing. The shop is located on a slight slope so there is crawl space headroom that goes from 5 to 7 feet - enough for the compressor and dust collector along one wall. I had footers placed so the front section of the shop - the front 12 feet of floor space - could have doubled 2x12 floor joists on 12” centers to dampen vibration. I also added two 6x10 beams jacked up from footings under where the lathe legs fall on the floor. There is very little vibration. The wood floor is foot and back friendly.

Had plenty of outlets installed including two outlets in the floor for both 120 and 220 for the lathe and table saw. Dust collection ducting and compressed air are run under the floor.

The two things I regret not having spluged on are plumbing and a little more floor space. I could have used another 200 feet of space…

 

[Larry Zarra]

Had my new 30'x22' shop built this summer, moved in mid-November. Ceiling is 11' to the cross-members, 14' to the peak.
There's 6 8' LED strips, 8000 lumens each, 5000K color temp (adjustable down to 3500K).
Walls painted white (eggshell) for light distribution.
Walls are all OSB so I can attach anything anywhere.
Here's my current rough layout:
View attachment 59750
I have a 100A service (sub-panel off the house) and it's all 20A outlets. Quad 120v about every 5' and 220v about every 10'.
The lathe is in one corner and I stand between the lathe and the wall (and I can see the mountains the the window on the opposite wall) . All my turning tools are on the wall behind me (some less-used tools are on the short section of wall near the headstock. Other items are in the tool cabinet next to the headstock. Both my grinders are just behind me - one on either side. I can reach everything I need while turning with less than two steps.
Along the long wall (top of the drawing) I ran duct for the dust collector - there's a gate at the lathe, each of the saws and a sanding station (not pictured). I also ran copper pipe along that wall and half way along each of the short walls. Have 5 drops with a filter/regulator spaced around (one has an overhead reel). I capped the ends such that it'd be easy to extend that all the way around someday.
Wood storage (and chainsaw/PPE storage) is next to the garage door (opens out onto the driveway). I left about 4+ feet from the door to the corner so I could put shelves long-way there - sheet goods store against that wall and the shelves are screwed to the wall so I can lean plywood against them if needed.
Desk for carving/finishing/etc near the window (for view plus ventilation in the summer).
Bench right in the middle, with plenty of floor space all around.
Enclosed-combustion heater hanging from the wall over the table saw. Don't need A/C here. Thermostat has an app on my phone so I can warm things up before I head out (or turn it down if I'm not going out).
A coat rack (7-point elk antler screwed to the wall) is next to the door so I can hang my jacket and pick up my smock and safety glasses on the way in.

Here's a panorama photo taken from the door (lower right in the drawing):
View attachment 59751

Hi Dave, I really appreciate your detailed response to my questions. Your 22x30 shop size would certainly have room for everything I would like to put in my new shop. My shop would be a bit more cluttered though. I also like the height of the workspace and the painted OSB walls. I was thinking along similar lines. I'm also glad you mentioned the LED lighting. In my last shop I put up one 4 bulb 4' 5000k color output LED fixture to replace a fluorescent fixture. It was like standing under a sunbeam on a cloudy day. 7 fixtures later, the whole shop was as bright as could be.
Not sure if I want to hard pipe dust collection, or remain flexible. Will need to think more in that. I am really grateful for your shop plan and panorama picture. Exactly what I was looking for as they help me visualize how you work and what parts of that will also work for me. I'm pretty sure I'll want a few more windows. I do not need a view when I'm turning, but would like to have the carving bench with a view and south facing light.
It looks like a great work space, roomy and well thought out. I am curious what you chose for flooring. I am done with standing on concrete.
Thank you so much for the effort you put into your post...it really helps. Larry

 

[Larry Zarra]

Seems to me you have plenty of stuff that is not needed for a turning shop. One bench is plenty, a table saw only helps if you do segmented work, dust collector can be installed in a corner or outside, and best of all, you can put things back to back since no long ripping needs to be done. Taunton press put out a great book on workshops. A mini split is definitely the perfect system for a/c and heating, so you really need to go bigger than a 60 amp panel.

Hi Richard, I appreciate you mentioning the mini-split. I will need to investigate this option as I really know nothing about this type of unit, but have been hearing about it a lot. While the table saw doesn't get much use, I occasionally need to build a display case or such. I also have been known to carve a bowl with an axe and adz, so I do appreciate a bit of extra elbow room. Thanks, Larry

 

[Larry Zarra]

A couple of things we enjoy in our shop is light and running water. We have a sink in the work area. And a drying room/ office with a bathroom and stove less kitchen. We run a dehumidifier at 50% year round.

The office is a nice place to do non dusty work.

You know the obvious spacing and workflow. Bandsaw, lathe, grinder, drill press, workbench, cabinet storage. Othe stationary tools
Considerations for dust collector and compressors.


Lighting is high on our list.
We went to a lighting store. Told the guy we wanted to hang the lights at 14 feet off the floor. Told him we moslty worked from 3-4 feet off the floor. The guy plugged our floor plan into a program. It came back with locations for 10 fluorescent fixtures and we had what the guy called daylight or better in the whole work area except for one corner. We rented a scissor jack platform a 1000% better than a ladder. Hung the lights in a weekend. Lighting was great when we flipped the switch.

Flooring is another consideration we have a concrete pad and fatigue mats at every machine except the bandsaw.

Hi Al, I appreciate the thoughts about light and water. The lighting is critical to me, but I am just going to replicate the use of 4' 4 bulb 5000k color output LED fixtures. The fixtures I had in my last shop are rated for 28 years, so no worries for a while. I will have water available in the house so will pass on that in the shop. Also have decided to keep office/inventory/photo setup/electronics in my basement instead of the shop. Really just need a dust proof sound system. For flooring, I have used anti fatigue mats, but I'm wondering if a wood floor over secured sleepers is going to be worth while. I'm hoping to hear from other's experience on this topic. Thank you for your comments, they are appreciated. Larry

 

[Larry Zarra]

My turning shop is also 10X12. It's not ideal, but it's adequate for a lathe, band saw, air cleaner, compressor, vacuum, and workbench, with a dust collector on the other side of the wall. All that flat woodworking stuff is what needs lots of space. With that in mind, maybe those Fine Woodworking articles apply after all, as most of your space is not turning related.

Having a reduced dust, properly ventilated, and warm space for embellishment and finishing would be good, either carved out of our current space by moving out the flat wood tools, or in a separate space, if you are going to add a building.

Hi Dean, Thank you for your thoughts. One of the work benches is actually a solid core office door on legs, with built in drawers for tool storage. It's a big flat space I mostly use for finishing and occasional flat work (and clutter). I agree that reducing dust is important, but want to try to reduce the associated noise volume. Thanks, Larry

 

[Larry Zarra]

When we moved into our retirement home 8 years ago, it needed to have a shop built to accommodate turning primarily, but needed to function for flat work, too. Spent a long time with cutouts of my equipment and a floor plan, moving stuff around until I thought it would work.I wound up with a 20 x 24 main floor, 13 x 22 or rice/guest room loft over. I worked with the retired architect that drew the house we bought to get the exterior similar to our home. The 24’ wide front opens with shop-built bi-fold doors. The lathe is at the front of the shop so, with the doors open the view is of the fir forest we live in and the creek flowing in the ravine next to the shop. Storage and countertops take up 24” along one wall with large windows above. There’s a deck on the back so I can roll equipment on mobile bases out of the way when doing the ocasional flatwork project. The table saw is at my back when turning and a large outfeed table does double duty as an assembly table with storage under.

Led strip lights over the assembly table are nice and bright, recessed led lights over the turning area are augmented with led strip lights directly over the lathe.

Upstairs is an office/guest room when needed. The dust collection and compressors are in the crawl space out of sight and hearing. The shop is located on a slight slope so there is crawl space headroom that goes from 5 to 7 feet - enough for the compressor and dust collector along one wall. I had footers placed so the front section of the shop - the front 12 feet of floor space - could have doubled 2x12 floor joists on 12” centers to dampen vibration. I also added two 6x10 beams jacked up from footings under where the lathe legs fall on the floor. There is very little vibration. The wood floor is foot and back friendly.

Had plenty of outlets installed including two outlets in the floor for both 120 and 220 for the lathe and table saw. Dust collection ducting and compressed air are run under the floor.

The two things I regret not having spluged on are plumbing and a little more floor space. I could have used another 200 feet of space…
View attachment 59752View attachment 59753

When we moved into our retirement home 8 years ago, it needed to have a shop built to accommodate turning primarily, but needed to function for flat work, too. Spent a long time with cutouts of my equipment and a floor plan, moving stuff around until I thought it would work.I wound up with a 20 x 24 main floor, 13 x 22 or rice/guest room loft over. I worked with the retired architect that drew the house we bought to get the exterior similar to our home. The 24’ wide front opens with shop-built bi-fold doors. The lathe is at the front of the shop so, with the doors open the view is of the fir forest we live in and the creek flowing in the ravine next to the shop. Storage and countertops take up 24” along one wall with large windows above. There’s a deck on the back so I can roll equipment on mobile bases out of the way when doing the ocasional flatwork project. The table saw is at my back when turning and a large outfeed table does double duty as an assembly table with storage under.

Led strip lights over the assembly table are nice and bright, recessed led lights over the turning area are augmented with led strip lights directly over the lathe.

Upstairs is an office/guest room when needed. The dust collection and compressors are in the crawl space out of sight and hearing. The shop is located on a slight slope so there is crawl space headroom that goes from 5 to 7 feet - enough for the compressor and dust collector along one wall. I had footers placed so the front section of the shop - the front 12 feet of floor space - could have doubled 2x12 floor joists on 12” centers to dampen vibration. I also added two 6x10 beams jacked up from footings under where the lathe legs fall on the floor. There is very little vibration. The wood floor is foot and back friendly.

Had plenty of outlets installed including two outlets in the floor for both 120 and 220 for the lathe and table saw. Dust collection ducting and compressed air are run under the floor.

The two things I regret not having spluged on are plumbing and a little more floor space. I could have used another 200 feet of space…
View attachment 59752View attachment 59753

Hi Jeff, Thank you very much for your reply and especially the shop photos. I like the open access to the outdoors, and am envisioning a nice cross breeze on temperate days. Your comments also have me thinking about the view I could have out the back side of the shop. it would be a shame to miss having a view of the hardwood forest out back. I like that you have a flat ceiling with room above. That is what I have in mind for flat mounting lighting fixtures. I will want a kind of steep pitch roof, so there will be some storage above. Maybe a place to dry roughed out bowl blanks. You have a crawl space so the floor is on joists. I will have to start with a concrete slab, and then figure out the most effective wood floor to put on it. I also appreciate you sharing your regret about wanting more floor space. I want to look back and feel that I right-sized the project. I'm only doing this once! Again, I really appreciate the photos. Thank you for sharing them, Larry

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

When we moved into our retirement home 8 years ago, it needed to have a shop built to accommodate turning primarily, but needed to function for flat work, too. Spent a long time with cutouts of my equipment and a floor plan, moving stuff around until I thought it would work.I wound up with a 20 x 24 main floor, 13 x 22 or rice/guest room loft over. I worked with the retired architect that drew the house we bought to get the exterior similar to our home. The 24’ wide front opens with shop-built bi-fold doors. The lathe is at the front of the shop so, with the doors open the view is of the fir forest we live in and the creek flowing in the ravine next to the shop. Storage and countertops take up 24” along one wall with large windows above. There’s a deck on the back so I can roll equipment on mobile bases out of the way when doing the ocasional flatwork project. The table saw is at my back when turning and a large outfeed table does double duty as an assembly table with storage under.

Led strip lights over the assembly table are nice and bright, recessed led lights over the turning area are augmented with led strip lights directly over the lathe.

Upstairs is an office/guest room when needed. The dust collection and compressors are in the crawl space out of sight and hearing. The shop is located on a slight slope so there is crawl space headroom that goes from 5 to 7 feet - enough for the compressor and dust collector along one wall. I had footers placed so the front section of the shop - the front 12 feet of floor space - could have doubled 2x12 floor joists on 12” centers to dampen vibration. I also added two 6x10 beams jacked up from footings under where the lathe legs fall on the floor. There is very little vibration. The wood floor is foot and back friendly.

Had plenty of outlets installed including two outlets in the floor for both 120 and 220 for the lathe and table saw. Dust collection ducting and compressed air are run under the floor.

The two things I regret not having spluged on are plumbing and a little more floor space. I could have used another 200 feet of space…

I like your used sandpaper strip. Sometimes it's the simple things that get past me.

 

[Dave Landers]

My shop would be a bit more cluttered though.

Oh, mine will too eventually - won't take long!

I'm pretty sure I'll want a few more windows. I do not need a view when I'm turning, but would like to have the carving bench with a view and south facing light.

Windows were definitely a compromise. I ended up choosing wall space but the one window I have is large and has the good view. And all summer I will work with the garage door open.

I am curious what you chose for flooring. I am done with standing on concrete.

Floor is concrete. Flat (no pitch) with a good smooth surface (unlike the rougher surface you'd put on a driveway or garage). I debated paint or epoxy, but chose no top-coat - just bare concrete - I went with the lower-maintenance option there. I do have a rubber-backed exterior rug under my finishing desk in case I spill things.
I haven't had a problem with concrete floors - it's all I've ever had. I usually wear the rubber horse mats on my feet - crocks But adding mats around the lathe, bench, and other tools is on the radar for someday.

 

[Bill Alston]

I haven’t read all the replies so apologies if someone has already mentioned it. What I did when designing the layout of my shop was to collect the measurements of all the stuff to go in it and draw them up on the computer in plan view. I could then easily arrange them on screen to make sure everything fitted nicely. I also drew a plan picture of myself to the correct scale.
In the days before computers my old boss used to do this with pieces of card on a large sheet of paper.

 

[Larry Zarra]

Oh, mine will too eventually - won't take long!


Windows were definitely a compromise. I ended up choosing wall space but the one window I have is large and has the good view. And all summer I will work with the garage door open.


Floor is concrete. Flat (no pitch) with a good smooth surface (unlike the rougher surface you'd put on a driveway or garage). I debated paint or epoxy, but chose no top-coat - just bare concrete - I went with the lower-maintenance option there. I do have a rubber-backed exterior rug under my finishing desk in case I spill things.
I haven't had a problem with concrete floors - it's all I've ever had. I usually wear the rubber horse mats on my feet - crocks But adding mats around the lathe, bench, and other tools is on the radar for someday.

In my on and off college days I worked in an auto repair shop, spending long days of cold concrete in steel toed work shoes. I know that it will take its toll on me so want to go with some type of wood floor. Articles I have seen involve sleeper boards secured to the slab, maybe solid foam core insulation, a vapor barrier, and then plywood or tongue and groove planks. I'll have to see what makes sense once I talk to a contractor.

 

[Larry Zarra]

I haven’t read all the replies so apologies if someone has already mentioned it. What I did when designing the layout of my shop was to collect the measurements of all the stuff to go in it and draw them up on the computer in plan view. I could then easily arrange them on screen to make sure everything fitted nicely. I also drew a plan picture of myself to the correct scale.
In the days before computers my old boss used to do this with pieces of card on a large sheet of paper.

Hi Bill, I do have a digital scaled floor plan for the old shop, and will certainly use it to plan layout of the new shop. With apologies to all the CAD and SketchUp users, I am using PowerPoint. Yes, it's the lowest common denominator, but it's what I know, and it gets the job done. Thank you for the suggestion, but I have this part of the process covered.

 

[robo hippy]

My first shop was a 20 by 20 foot garage, and that was probably outside measurements.... Second shop was a 24 by 36 pole barn, and I had an electrical panel installed with more space for breakers than I thought I needed. That was good. Now, I have a dream shop, 850 for turning on a flat slab, and about 1800 for flat work. For electricity, get the biggest panel installed that you can. You always seem to need more circuits. For space, in particular because I do flat work, I could use 400 or so sq. ft. for lumber storage. A centralized dust system is a must, and remote starters on an FM frequency so you don't have to point. I prefer to build over size, in case you have friends over for play dates and need to have 2 hoses running at the same time. I have a wood stove for heat. Really helpful. I am lucky to live in a mild climate, and most of the time when it is hot outside, several big fans in the window bring the temps down to cool, and by 9 pm, it is about 75 or so. Having comfortable working conditions are huge. You will need space for log storage, and I keep mine under a big cedar tree, covered all the way around, with heavy tarps. Chainsaw storage, and gas can storage, probably best outside. Flammable liquids cabinet for finishes. Fire extinguishers. I have work benches all over the place, and most of them are on wheels. Fire extinguishers, and probably a couple of them. First aid kit, or bandaids at least. Like some one said, running water, which to me means a toilet and sink. Maybe a fridge and microwave too. I don't think it is possible to have a shop that is too big. Mostly that depends on your budget... I am sure there are other things, but I am still waiting for morning coffee to kick in....

robo hippy

 

[Steve Tiedman]

Larry, you mentioned overhead storage. You can specify "storage trusses" for the roof frame. Depending on the building width and the ridge height of the truss, this will provide an attic floor frame that is actually rated for "live load" weights, and near room height headroom. Spec'ing a storage truss with a 40lb sq. ft. live load rating for the bottom truss chord (min., or higher) will provide the same minimum live load rating as the floors inside of a house when built to code minimums. Standard roof trusses usually have a zero-lb live load rating and 10lb sq ft rating dead load rating, just enough structural capacity for ceiling board and insulation, but zero load capacity for storage and people (live load) weights. Add a pull down stair ladder (get one with a 300-pound duty rating, if one exists), and you'll have some nice storage space. You won't be able to pack the space volume with logs (still too much weight, think about living spaces with the weights of furnishings and people), but you will have a lot of space for shelving with bowl blanks.

You're on the right path with the sleeper-style floor surface. Tongue and groove 2x6 softwoods (douglas fir, SPF, hem-fir) of a #1 grade would probably work really well for the walking surface and give a better service life than plywood. I'd still put a finish on it for liquid protection, and maintain it regularly.

I'm not ashamed to say, I'm a bit jealous reading about some of the shop spaces described in this thread...!

 

[Larry Zarra]

My first shop was a 20 by 20 foot garage, and that was probably outside measurements.... Second shop was a 24 by 36 pole barn, and I had an electrical panel installed with more space for breakers than I thought I needed. That was good. Now, I have a dream shop, 850 for turning on a flat slab, and about 1800 for flat work. For electricity, get the biggest panel installed that you can. You always seem to need more circuits. For space, in particular because I do flat work, I could use 400 or so sq. ft. for lumber storage. A centralized dust system is a must, and remote starters on an FM frequency so you don't have to point. I prefer to build over size, in case you have friends over for play dates and need to have 2 hoses running at the same time. I have a wood stove for heat. Really helpful. I am lucky to live in a mild climate, and most of the time when it is hot outside, several big fans in the window bring the temps down to cool, and by 9 pm, it is about 75 or so. Having comfortable working conditions are huge. You will need space for log storage, and I keep mine under a big cedar tree, covered all the way around, with heavy tarps. Chainsaw storage, and gas can storage, probably best outside. Flammable liquids cabinet for finishes. Fire extinguishers. I have work benches all over the place, and most of them are on wheels. Fire extinguishers, and probably a couple of them. First aid kit, or bandaids at least. Like some one said, running water, which to me means a toilet and sink. Maybe a fridge and microwave too. I don't think it is possible to have a shop that is too big. Mostly that depends on your budget... I am sure there are other things, but I am still waiting for morning coffee to kick in....

robo hippy

Hi Reed, I appreciate your response, especially the pre-caffeine version. Remote starters for dust collection units will be essential as I want to have them in a somewhat soundproofed closet adjacent to the main shop. I want good dust extraction, I just don't want to hear the non stop roar of the machines. Planning for some oversize shop area is good, will just have to see how that shakes out when I start drawing up floor plans. Good to keep in mind though. Good suggestion about the wood stove too. I'm just kinda skeptical of installing one knowing how I cover an area with shavings when roughing big blanks. Will want AC too so will look into some kind of integrated HVAC unit. Will also want a chainsaw cutting area that lets me dump logs from the truck, cut to size, and more easily bring trimmed blanks into the shop. While thinking of outside areas, maybe a side area with a lean-to or shed for a spark proof cabinet. I have always hated storing gasoline and other flammable solvents in the shop or attached garages. Several have suggested having running water and associated conveniences. My thinking is to walk a few dozen yards to the house and use facilities there, get coffee and a snack, and say hi to wife and dogs. Besides, running a line to our septic field would be outrageous, and certainly the first thing I would give up. A previous poster got me thinking about windows and views. Will have to give some serious thought to balancing window space vs wall space. I really appreciate your comments. You have got me thinking about some possibly underexplored ideas. Thank you, Larry

 

[Larry Zarra]

Larry, you mentioned overhead storage. You can specify "storage trusses" for the roof frame. Depending on the building width and the ridge height of the truss, this will provide an attic floor frame that is actually rated for "live load" weights, and near room height headroom. Spec'ing a storage truss with a 40lb sq. ft. live load rating for the bottom truss chord (min., or higher) will provide the same minimum live load rating as the floors inside of a house when built to code minimums. Standard roof trusses usually have a zero-lb live load rating and 10lb sq ft rating dead load rating, just enough structural capacity for ceiling board and insulation, but zero load capacity for storage and people (live load) weights. Add a pull down stair ladder (get one with a 300-pound duty rating, if one exists), and you'll have some nice storage space. You won't be able to pack the space volume with logs (still too much weight, think about living spaces with the weights of furnishings and people), but you will have a lot of space for shelving with bowl blanks.

You're on the right path with the sleeper-style floor surface. Tongue and groove 2x6 softwoods (douglas fir, SPF, hem-fir) of a #1 grade would probably work really well for the walking surface and give a better service life than plywood. I'd still put a finish on it for liquid protection, and maintain it regularly.

I'm not ashamed to say, I'm a bit jealous reading about some of the shop spaces described in this thread...!

Wow Steve, Thank you for the great information on trusses and load. This is an important consideration that I was totally unaware of. About the floor, I will have to see what kind of T/G flooring is available locally. Seems like I am surrounded by hardwoods, but no telling what the local mills have available. Your comments are constructive and informative. Just what I was looking for. Wow again, thank you, Larry

 

[Jerry Bennett]

Well Larry, if I know you, what you come up with will be pretty cool.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

You're welcome, Larry.

You know, I'm rethinking the whole tongue and groove on the floor. If there is ever a need to replace a board, the tongue and groove make replacement difficult (although they do help maintain a flat surface). 2x lumber like I mentioned, but with plain edges, would likely be fine. Easy access to hardwood planks would be great, but if the hardwood is only 3/4", I'd put in a 3/4" plywood underlayment. Unlike spaced boards of an exterior deck, tight fitting joints should be fine (preferred), and if joints open a bit over time and are a nuisance, the gaps can be tight-packed with jute/hemp twine to fill the gap (an old Bob Vila tip). Quarter sawn/vertical grain will be very stable over time with softwood lumber, and as softwoods age they tend to get harder than when new. Face fastening them to the sleepers would allow easy replacement of a worn or damaged plank. Countersink the fasteners and get a floor sander to sand down the radius edges of the boards (or plane thickness before installing, or rip the board width to remove the radius corners and maintain thickness). I'd still go for a higher grade of plank, skip the "#2 or better" junk. #1 costs a little more but the quality is better. Hardware store BLO would be a simple, easy to maintain finish. Local lumber dealers can probably refine my ideas even more for species and milling recommendations. (Thanks for letting me have a little fun with your new project!)

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

Floor is concrete. Flat (no pitch) with a good smooth surface.

My garage floor has quite a pitch. When we first looked at the house my realtor even commented on it. I leveled my lathe, but everything else I just learned to live with it.

 

[Dave Landers]

My garage floor has quite a pitch. When we first looked at the house my realtor even commented on it. I leveled my lathe, but everything else I just learned to live with it.

My architect was a bit concerned because some municipalities would require a pitched floor since I have a garage door (drainage). But it was ok here as a "workshop".
He did say he did one workshop in a nearby town that required a pitch, but they didn't have a rule for how much pitch, so he gave it 1" over 30'

 

[Larry Zarra]

Well Larry, if I know you, what you come up with will be pretty cool.

Hi Jerry, I will certainly keep you posted.

 

[Larry Zarra]

You're welcome, Larry.

You know, I'm rethinking the whole tongue and groove on the floor. If there is ever a need to replace a board, the tongue and groove make replacement difficult (although they do help maintain a flat surface). 2x lumber like I mentioned, but with plain edges, would likely be fine. Easy access to hardwood planks would be great, but if the hardwood is only 3/4", I'd put in a 3/4" plywood underlayment. Unlike spaced boards of an exterior deck, tight fitting joints should be fine (preferred), and if joints open a bit over time and are a nuisance, the gaps can be tight-packed with jute/hemp twine to fill the gap (an old Bob Vila tip). Quarter sawn/vertical grain will be very stable over time with softwood lumber, and as softwoods age they tend to get harder than when new. Face fastening them to the sleepers would allow easy replacement of a worn or damaged plank. Countersink the fasteners and get a floor sander to sand down the radius edges of the boards (or plane thickness before installing, or rip the board width to remove the radius corners and maintain thickness). I'd still go for a higher grade of plank, skip the "#2 or better" junk. #1 costs a little more but the quality is better. Hardware store BLO would be a simple, easy to maintain finish. Local lumber dealers can probably refine my ideas even more for species and milling recommendations. (Thanks for letting me have a little fun with your new project!)

Steve, I appreciate the added discussion. Great suggestion on the plywood underlayment if thinner planks are used. I'll file this away in my floor decisions mental folder. Thank you, Larry

 

[Larry Zarra]

My architect was a bit concerned because some municipalities would require a pitched floor since I have a garage door (drainage). But it was ok here as a "workshop".
He did say he did one workshop in a nearby town that required a pitch, but they didn't have a rule for how much pitch, so he gave it 1" over 30'

My intent is to construct a workshop, not necessarily accommodating a design that would be easily converted to a garage. Will have to see what local building codes have to say.

 

[Dave Landers]

Will have to see what local building codes have to say.

The most frustrating weeks of my build were those times when nothing was happening! Waiting for permit approvals (or re-approvals or re-re-approvals) and inspections.

 

[Gabriel Hoff]

Had my new 30'x22' shop built this summer, moved in mid-November. Ceiling is 11' to the cross-members, 14' to the peak.
There's 6 8' LED strips, 8000 lumens each, 5000K color temp (adjustable down to 3500K).
Walls painted white (eggshell) for light distribution.
Walls are all OSB so I can attach anything anywhere.
Here's my current rough layout:
View attachment 59750
I have a 100A service (sub-panel off the house) and it's all 20A outlets. Quad 120v about every 5' and 220v about every 10'.
The lathe is in one corner and I stand between the lathe and the wall (and I can see the mountains the the window on the opposite wall) . All my turning tools are on the wall behind me (some less-used tools are on the short section of wall near the headstock. Other items are in the tool cabinet next to the headstock. Both my grinders are just behind me - one on either side. I can reach everything I need while turning with less than two steps.
Along the long wall (top of the drawing) I ran duct for the dust collector - there's a gate at the lathe, each of the saws and a sanding station (not pictured). I also ran copper pipe along that wall and half way along each of the short walls. Have 5 drops with a filter/regulator spaced around (one has an overhead reel). I capped the ends such that it'd be easy to extend that all the way around someday.
Wood storage (and chainsaw/PPE storage) is next to the garage door (opens out onto the driveway). I left about 4+ feet from the door to the corner so I could put shelves long-way there - sheet goods store against that wall and the shelves are screwed to the wall so I can lean plywood against them if needed.
Desk for carving/finishing/etc near the window (for view plus ventilation in the summer).
Bench right in the middle, with plenty of floor space all around.
Enclosed-combustion heater hanging from the wall over the table saw. Don't need A/C here. Thermostat has an app on my phone so I can warm things up before I head out (or turn it down if I'm not going out).
A coat rack (7-point elk antler screwed to the wall) is next to the door so I can hang my jacket and pick up my smock and safety glasses on the way in.

Here's a panorama photo taken from the door (lower right in the drawing):
View attachment 59751

That's a beautiful shop!! Love the lighting!

 

[Gabriel Hoff]

My turning shop is also 10X12. It's not ideal, but it's adequate for a lathe, band saw, air cleaner, compressor, vacuum, and workbench, with a dust collector on the other side of the wall. All that flat woodworking stuff is what needs lots of space. With that in mind, maybe those Fine Woodworking articles apply after all, as most of your space is not turning related.

Having a reduced dust, properly ventilated, and warm space for embellishment and finishing would be good, either carved out of our current space by moving out the flat wood tools, or in a separate space, if you are going to add a building.

How about a 12x16 for two people!! Pretty tight but we have a lot of good ideas for storage

 

[robo hippy]

As for pitch of the floor, it depends. On outside sidewalks here in the great Northwet, 1/4 inch per foot, so a 5 foot wide sidewalk has about 1 1/4 inch of fall to it. In garages, we would go for 1/8 inch per foot. My current shop, I planned for the future when my birth certificate expires, and the floor is dead level, or as close as concrete can get. The front 1 foot can be removed and a sloping apron can be put in, but if some one drives in from the rain, the water will go onto the floor. Other than having a lot of ice and snow on the car, most of it will soak in. You can put all sorts of sealers on the floors though, which would water proof it.

robo hippy

 

[William Rogers]

I built my shop, 30’ X 50’. I made all the little cutouts and that lasted maybe 2 days before I started moving things. I have everything on wheels. The things I included that I am glad I did was a 1/2 bath, 12’ ceilings, and I have two garage doors. One garage door is 16’wide on the shop side the other is 8’. The reason for two doors is I also wanted to store my lawnmower, gator, and yard tools and not maintain two buildings. I have in floor hot water heat because in my previous shop my feet were cold in the winter. I have three windows. Most will say you give up wall space with windows, but I enjoy seeing outside when in my shop. By far the 1/2 bath was best decision to include in my workshop.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

On outside sidewalks here in the great Northwet

My current shop, I planned for the future when my birth certificate expires

You're on a roll today.

 

[John Vaeth]

We recently made a cross-country move and I faced the same issue, creating a new workspace after 18 years of "perfecting" the old one. Rather than sharing my new layout since you've already seen many excellent options, I will share two things that have worked out particularly well. I had an electrician add multiple 120 and 240v drops from the ceiling in my garage, All my big tools (except the lathe) are on wheels so I can easily reconfigure the layout any time without having to worry about electricity and cords cluttering the floor. The drops are located low enough to reach them but high enough to avoid bumping into them. The second feature is a "containment" curtain hung from 1 1/4" PVC that isolates the corner where the lathe is located, keeping wood chips from flying everywhere.

 

[Mike Amphlett]

I jokingly devised a rule for shop design, decide how many sq metres (feet) you want, add 50% then double it. Chances are it still won't be big enough.

 

[Larry Zarra]

I built my shop, 30’ X 50’. I made all the little cutouts and that lasted maybe 2 days before I started moving things. I have everything on wheels. The things I included that I am glad I did was a 1/2 bath, 12’ ceilings, and I have two garage doors. One garage door is 16’wide on the shop side the other is 8’. The reason for two doors is I also wanted to store my lawnmower, gator, and yard tools and not maintain two buildings. I have in floor hot water heat because in my previous shop my feet were cold in the winter. I have three windows. Most will say you give up wall space with windows, but I enjoy seeing outside when in my shop. By far the 1/2 bath was best decision to include in my workshop.

Hi William, Thanks for telling me about your shop. 30x50 seems huge. I want to size my shop just for turning and some carving. Trade off will be to keep mowers and lawn care stuff in one bay of the garage. I'm hoping an insulated wood floor will keep my feet from getting cold in the winter. Other trade off is to not have a half bath, mostly because of distance to tie into septic line. I can walk a half minute to the house. I appreciate you sharing, Larry