What are the best "easy peasy" cameras for close up photos?

[odie]

I've been using my Canon Powershot S95 for a decade now....all on the "auto" setting. If I do get a replacement camera, I'd only be interested in the most simple to use camera, with acceptable photos.

I'd prefer a dedicated camera, not a cell phone camera. Doesn't have to be perfect photos.....just good clarity, good enough to sell my works.

So, if there is anyone like me who just wants simple to do photos, with a simple to arrange set-up, let me know what you've decided on...

Note: At one time, I invested in a rather exotic light set-up for my photos......but found that natural light is best, usually prefer subdued cloudy days, in the mornings.

What you got?

Insert photos, a plus.

-----odie-----

 

[hockenbery]

You might look at the Olympus TG series.
We have an older version we got to take snorkeling because it is waterproof.

Ours has an excellent macro mode and a little clip on that makes a sort of ring flash to light small subjects.
It also attaches to a spotting scope

This is an amazing little camera.

These were take with our TG. The heron is through a spotting scope

 

[Bill Blasic]

Odie natural light is fine but too unpredictable. I generally need a photo now and can't wait until I have an overcast day. Here is what I use in an article I wrote. I use a variety of cameras. With the strobe light setup I use a Canon DSLR and for general fast pics I use a Panasonic Lumix. It is also nice to have Photoshop or a clone on the computer.

 

[Glenn Lefley]

The cell phone cameras are getting way ahead of any of the cheaper cameras. A dedicated used old phone , can work awesome.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

I certainly understand your desire to KISS. I was fortunate to have a cousin set me up with an SLR and lights that he no longer wanted, so with that and a gradient backdrop I have a reasonably uncomplicated "studio" for finished pieces.

But for process shots at the lathe I use a Samsung WB35F, which is probably 10 years old. Easy to use, in particular one handed, and takes decent photos. I don't know what models might be available in the new market, but you might find something used.

If you are fortunate to have an actual old fashioned camera store in driving distance you might start with them.

 

[John Hicks]

A inexpensive lite box is great for photos. You can just use your phone.

 

[GRJensen]

I have a Nikon L830 that I use with a tripod and light box from Amazon.

 

[Bill Blasic]

The latest Iphone costs about a $1000, I could buy a great camera for much less than that. Even cheap cameras have the ability for depth of field and produce great photos. It's much easier for me to pick up a camera rather than my phone for a picture. To each their own.

 

[GRJensen]

The latest Iphone costs about a $1000, I could buy a great camera for much less than that. Even cheap cameras have the ability for depth of field and produce great photos. It's much easier for me to pick up a camera rather than my phone for a picture. To each their own.

Maybe it is just an age thing, but I just get better results from my Nikon cameras. I have a love/hate relationship with my cell phone!

 

[Ed Davidson]

After-the-shot software processing should also be a consideration. A little after the fact focus sharpening, white balancing, and even background replacement can do wonders. This one was tweaked with Luminar desktop software.

 

[Larry Copas]

If your just doing simple pictures for the web, software is more important than the camera. I've used Gimp which is free for years. It does what I want so never have looked at anything else.

 

[Ed Davidson]

Here's another free photo editing software app for desktops...I've used it for many years. Great for easy cropping and re-sizing images: VuePrint

 

[Dean Center]

Odie, I'm no photographer but on someone's suggestion I bought a Sony Cyber-shot point and shoot digital camera years ago. It takes pictures, plugs into my computer for uploading and sending, and has way more options than I know what to do with, at a reasonable price (less than $200). Somewhere along the way, I heard that P ('program'?) mode allowed for a more in-focus close up shot, rather than the usual auto setting. I suspect that most point and shoot digital cameras would work for your specified needs.

 

[odie]

Odie, I'm no photographer but on someone's suggestion I bought a Sony Cyber-shot point and shoot digital camera years ago. It takes pictures, plugs into my computer for uploading and sending, and has way more options than I know what to do with, at a reasonable price (less than $200). Somewhere along the way, I heard that P ('program'?) mode allowed for a more in-focus close up shot, rather than the usual auto setting. I suspect that most point and shoot digital cameras would work for your specified needs.

Neither am I, Dean.....

This Canon Powershot S95 camera wasn't your average point-and-shoot camera, when I bought it on 4/29/2011 for $399.99. It came recommended to do photos of my bowls for internet presentation, but there is some depth-of-field issues that I wish were better. I know that DOF is a big problem, even for professional photographers. I'm sometimes using the "macro" setting in conjunction with the "auto"....but, I've never really seen much, if any difference using the macro. Am I doing something wrong, or the macro just isn't as good as it's cracked up to be?

The photo editing software is good advice. I'm using a Microsoft product, that is also free. This software helps with the DOF issues, while using the "clarity" setting, but it's not a cure all...

I recently made myself some "light blockers" that are kind of like two extra large ping pong paddles. Used with a delayed shutter, they are helping to subdue some of the light spots created by the two direct natural light sources.....(windows from both walls in the corner of my bedroom.)

-----odie-----

 

[Bill Blasic]

Odie aperture preferred (usually the "A" on the dial) is what you want to shoot your work in. I have found F18 to F22 gives me all the depth of field I need to have for even the biggest bowl.

 

[Glenn Lefley]

The latest Iphone costs about a $1000, I could buy a great camera for much less than that. Even cheap cameras have the ability for depth of field and produce great photos. It's much easier for me to pick up a camera rather than my phone for a picture. To each their own.

But a used iPhone cost $100.00 or less. I’d give my used ones away for free. And the cameras are perfect condition.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

As Bill Blasic said a smaller aperture (larger f-stop number) will improve focus and hence depth of field, but requires a longer exposure (so you'll need a tripod). Wide angle lens (or zoom settings) will also have greater depth of field. Of course you'll have to position your camera closer to the subject.

 

[odie]

Odie aperture preferred (usually the "A" on the dial) is what you want to shoot your work in. I have found F18 to F22 gives me all the depth of field I need to have for even the biggest bowl.

As Bill Blasic said a smaller aperture (larger f-stop number) will improve focus and hence depth of field, but requires a longer exposure (so you'll need a tripod). Wide angle lens (or zoom settings) will also have greater depth of field. Of course you'll have to position your camera closer to the subject.

No A setting but I have an Av option.

Looks like F8 is the smallest aperture setting available to me, and what I've been using.

I have been using a tripod.

-----odie-----

 

[Mark Jundanian]

@odie , what is the f-stop setting at the opposite end of your f-stop scale?

 

[odie]

@odie , what is the f-stop setting at the opposite end of your f-stop scale?

The range is F2.0 to F8.0

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Then you are correct, F8 is your smallest aperture, but I gotta say, that's not very small (hence my question). Are you using a wide angle setting on the lens, too?

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

The f stop that's usually best for sharpness is not at the extreme, as in f22, f32 and such. It's more in the mid range of your lens.

There're a couple image improving software products from Topaz Labs that are worth a try before sinking money into a new camera. The one I use most is Sharpen AI which does a really good job.. Download a demo. Gigapixel AI is another if you need to improve cropped images. These products are constantly on sale.

Joke: Famous author is talking with equally famous photographer. Author says to photographer, I admire your photography, what kind of camera do you use? The photographer responds, I enjoy your writings, what kind of typewriter do you use? In other words it's not the equipment, but the way it's used. This would especially apply to woodturning where there seems to always be the search for the tools that'll make you an expert..

 

[odie]

Then you are correct, F8 is your smallest aperture, but I gotta say, that's not very small (hence my question). Are you using a wide angle setting on the lens, too?

I am not seeing any lens settings for wide angle.

It does look like my photos on the "auto" setting are using a lower than F8 aperture setting.....all that I have checked are lower than the maximum of F8.0. All of my photos have been on the auto setting so far. Apparently, this is why it's not automatically on the f8. The f8, while using the "macro" might be a further improvement, but I need to do some further experimenting with what is available to me.

In the next photo session, I'm going to use the Av setting, where I can manually use the F8.0 aperture.

Maybe this dummy can improve his photos with a better depth of field using the Av setting + macro......we'll see.

I have two finished bowls ready for a photo session, but have family visiting, and may not get to it right away.

Thanks for the help.....fingers crossed!

-----odie-----

 

[odie]

In other words it's not the equipment, but the way it's used.

When applied to woodturning, I'll agree with that......with the stipulation that nearly all my tools have been modified to my own personal specifications to some degree, and some of my special tooling that I've designed myself, is entirely unique to me!

-----odie-----

 

[Tom De Winter]

The Macro setting just modifies the camera to be able to focus closer. Generally DOF (Depth of Field) is shallower in Macro mode.

 

[Bill Blasic]

If you want to describe depth of focus as sharpness then go ahead but f22 will be sharper from the point of focus back towards infinity than f8 or f12. When you focus on the front lip of a bowl you want the back of the bowl to be in the same focus. Best described as "Depth of field is the amount of the picture that is actually in focus. It is the amount of distance between the nearest and farthest objects that appear in sharp focus in a photograph. A shallow (narrow) depth of field is created by using a larger aperture (smaller F-stop).".

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

A good way to get sharp focus on an object is with "focus stacking". Take multiple shots using a tripod. First focus on the nearest edge of the bowl. Then the middle area of the bowl and finally the rear-most part of the bowl. Use free software to stack these images into a single image with sharp focus on the complete bowl. Again, it's more about how to use your tools than having the late$t and greate$t camera.

Focus stacking is used mostly for tiny objects like insects where it's hard to get much DOF.

 

[Allen Mattsen]

If you're buying a used phone you can't beat Swappa. I've bought used phones there for years. Always the most competitive prices and clean devices (see: not stolen).

 

[john lucas]

As Bill Blasic said a smaller aperture (larger f-stop number) will improve focus and hence depth of field, but requires a longer exposure (so you'll need a tripod). Wide angle lens (or zoom settings) will also have greater depth of field. Of course you'll have to position your camera closer to the subject.

No a wide angle lens will not give more depth of field. If you photograph a bowl and you make the bowl fill the frame so it is the same size with a telephoto and a wide angle you will have the same depth of field. The difference of course is the camera with telephoto will be farther away than the wide angle.

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

Odie, I Googled on your camera and found a used one on Amazon. Reading the reviews it appears to be a fairly nice camera.

Unless you're totally set on a new camera you should do fine with what you have. You just need to learn to better use its features.

 

[odie]

Odie, I Googled on your camera and found a used one on Amazon. Reading the reviews it appears to be a fairly nice camera.

Unless you're totally set on a new camera you should do fine with what you have. You just need to learn to better use its features.

Yes, I think you're right, Doug......

I still haven't had the opportunity to do a photo session, but am looking forward to seeing if some manual use of the f stop setting can improve my current photos.

-----odie-----

 

[Gary Norton]

I have a Sony DSC-HX90V a few years old pocket camera. My big Sony DSLR A200 sits unused.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

No a wide angle lens will not give more depth of field. If you photograph a bowl and you make the bowl fill the frame so it is the same size with a telephoto and a wide angle you will have the same depth of field. The difference of course is the camera with telephoto will be farther away than the wide angle.

Thanks for this explanation I was going to ask if anyone could could recommend a wide angle lens for my Sony alfa 6000 but It appears that I am already doing the best way with the lens that came with the camera. I already use a tripod and zoom in to fill the entire frame when photographing my turnings.

 

[Bill Blasic]

For my photography setup I had to run upstairs and grab my Canon when I wanted photos of my work. Consequently I would wait until I had more than a few to photograph. This morning I went to Ebay and found a Canon Rebel body (with a 6 month guarantee) for $32 (I have a couple spare lenses). Now I will be able to leave the camera on the tripod and grab a photo any time. There are some great cameras there for $150 or less.

 

[Michael Edelman]

It’s hard to find a bad camera these days, and pixel count is really unimportant, especially if you’re just posting photos online. How much resolution do you need? A guy I knew was covering the international F1 circuit in the 1990s shooting a Nikon D1 with a resolution of 1.3 MP, and his photos were featured in double page magazine spreads.

What’s much more important is lighting. A seamless background and couple of large diffusers or an inexpensive soft box will provide the wide, even, illumination you need to show off your work. Even easier is a pop-up shooting tent, which is a box made of translucent material or matte surfaced material with interior LED lights.

 

[Bill Blasic]

I get emails from a couple of Chinese places (I assume) where you can get a setup with either 2 soft boxes or two strobes with umbrellas and a big background for under a $100. I'll have to look att the next ones I get to see how much you can get just the strobes for. And the Canon XT will be here today, how can you sell a camera for $32 and send it UPS 2nd day air and make money?

 

[Michael Edelman]

I get emails from a couple of Chinese places (I assume) where you can get a setup with either 2 soft boxes or two strobes with umbrellas and a big background for under a $100…

Strobes are not often used for still product photography these days, although they’re still used for fashion and location work. Increasingly it’s LED panels. With digital photography, light color temperature isn’t as big a factor as it was with film, so you can use a wide variety of light sources.

 

[Bill Blasic]

To get the best lighting is still the best with strobes for no shadows and the best picture possible. I see a wide variety of light sources every day and most could be better.

 

[Michael Edelman]

To get the best lighting is still the best with strobes for no shadows and the best picture possible. I see a wide variety of light sources every day and most could be better.

It’s not the type light source but the size of the source. Naked strobes produce highly specular light that will cast shadows. A softbox or diffuser or umbrella will produce even illumination whether you put a strobe, an incandescent photoflood lamp, a halogen lamp, or LEDs in it. The easiest source of even illumination is of course a cloudy day.

You don’t need pro lighting gear to take pro quality photos. My late neighbor Tom Ciemiega, who had been head of photographic services for American Motors, taught me most of what I know about lighting. He showed me how to “paint with light” using a single source and time exposures and produce what looked like an airbrushed image, and to use cheap foam core board and aluminum foil for light control, among other tricks.

 

[Bill Blasic]

Sorry Michael but I'm all for easy. My strobes and umbrellas are set, put the piece on the seamless turn on and shoot.