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What cause this

Bill Boehme

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Here are some things: Wet wood and using a dull tool to make scraping rather than slicing cuts. Which way were you going with the gouge -- center to outer edge or the other way -- for interior work and also for exterior. Going the wrong direction can lift fibers.
 
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hockenbery

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Like Bill said cutting or scraping in the wrong direction.

The second photo is an example of the back side of the endgrain.
It is the place I look to see how well I'm cutting, There is always a little bit or torn fiber on this part of the bowl.
Sometime you need a magnifier to see it.

The way I cut is foot to rim on the outside. While most of the cutting takes place toward the rim and a supporting fiber is behind each one causing a clean cut there is always a little cutting taking place parallel to the rim and on the back side of the endgrain there is nothing but air supporting the fiber so they bend over rather than cut.
It appear that most of your cut is parallel to the rim.

You could be using a scraper or pointing your gouge in the wrong direction.

Think of the wood as a bundle of broom straws with the straw running from the roots to the leaves.
The cleanest cuts cut a straw with one behind it.

On the outside cut foot to rim
On the inside cut rim to bottom.
Use sharp tools
Take light cuts at the end

Also walnut really shows the tearout as the growth rings are not joined to each other as strongly as most woods.


Have fun,Al
 
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walnut green bowl what am wrong cause this to happen one side of the end grain

You. With a bit of help from the wood, of course.

You want to cut across the grain, not into it. From the looks of things, that's what you were doing. Imagine the tool started bouncing back to you with grab and release, and you responded with a heavier hand. Would be typical, if so. I like shallow but broad shavings, which are nearly effortless when you set yourself to a slicing rather than a stabbing presentation. Examples of a narrow sweep and broad sweep gouge working across the fibers and down grain (hill) as well. Check chapter 7 for a good view of those terms. http://www.turningtools.co.uk/wtintro/wtintro.html The narrow gouge can be used with the bottom of the flute cutting, or with the side, while the nose of the gouge guides on the wood for an aggressive cut. But it will roll easily if the nose comes out of contact. The broader gouge has the same bevel angle all the way across, so it can't turn unless you're cutting at the very top of the flute. http://s35.photobucket.com/user/GoodOnesGone/media/Outside.mp4.html

Inside is the same as out, except outside cuts above centerline, inside below. .
 

hockenbery

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Cutting height depends in the tool and the presentation.

My suggestions
Scrapers flat on the tool rest:
Slightly below center on the outside
Slightly above center on the inside

My Tool of choice for bowls:
Side ground bowl gouge set the tool rest so the tool tip cuts at center with the tool level to the floor.
On both the inside and and outside I may drop handle cutting slightly above center.
On making the entry cut for hollowing a bowl you need to be at center or above or you risk a catch.
On hollowing the inside if you are below center you have to turn the tool up to cut to center and you get a catch.
Whenever the wood can drive down onto the tool you get a catch since the tool cannot escape the wood.

For novices and beginners work with the tool parallel to the floor.
Keep the handle against your side
Move your body to move the tool.

Have fun
Al
 
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