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What finish for Hackberry Bowl?

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Just wondering if anyone has suggestions for my 8th bowl turned yesterday. It was made from a large Hackberry log I got from my neighbourhood in April. I thought I would practice on this type knowing its not the most beautiful grained wood. I don't care for the yellowish colouring and was wondering what should I finish it in. Thought about bleaching to get a whiten the yellowish grain color.
Would also like a satin finish. I watched Mahoneys video online regarding finishes. Walnut oil? Bowl is not going to be used for salads. This is my first once turned green bowl turning, has a 1/2" wall. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
 

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Since you're not that fond of the bowl why not experiment with a finish you've been wanting to try.

If the wood is bland you could also consider some surface embellishments and/or milk paint.

As to clear finishes I could suggest Osmo Top Oil. It is a lower viscosity version of Osmo Polyx-Oil (which I like very much), but has been certified (in Europe) as food safe.
 
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Since you're not that fond of the bowl why not experiment with a finish you've been wanting to try.

If the wood is bland you could also consider some surface embellishments and/or milk paint.

As to clear finishes I could suggest Osmo Top Oil. It is a lower viscosity version of Osmo Polyx-Oil (which I like very much), but has been certified (in Europe) as food safe.
Thanks for the info Mark. Do like the shape and for the work I put into it would like to finish to the best of my ability. Thought about using milk paint. Thanks again.
 
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8 bowls in a day, congrats! How can you tell you don't like the color? It's still raw wood, right? I love hackberry with a sprayed lacquer finish. Tall hollow vessel in back left, and small vessel front left. 1/2" wall for once turned is getting pretty beefy. From the photo, the wall thickness must get heavier near and on the bottom. It doesn't seem like the interior matches the exterior. But maybe it's the camera angle.
 

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U might learn to like a light colored wood....after all brown, brown, brown & and brown
 

Randy Anderson

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As Gerald said, too late here but if you get more of it let some of it age before you turn it. I've turned quite a bit of it and found it will develop very nice dark spalting lines throughout.
 
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8 bowls in a day, congrats! How can you tell you don't like the color? It's still raw wood, right? I love hackberry with a sprayed lacquer finish. Tall hollow vessel in back left, and small vessel front left. 1/2" wall for once turned is getting pretty beefy. From the photo, the wall thickness must get heavier near and on the bottom. It doesn't seem like the interior matches the exterior. But maybe it's the camera angle.
8 bowls since July 1. Not that fast yet.
 
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8 bowls in a day, congrats! How can you tell you don't like the color? It's still raw wood, right? I love hackberry with a sprayed lacquer finish. Tall hollow vessel in back left, and small vessel front left. 1/2" wall for once turned is getting pretty beefy. From the photo, the wall thickness must get heavier near and on the bottom. It doesn't seem like the interior matches the exterior. But maybe it's the camera angle.
Your right. Starting to crack on end grain this morning! Could't get down far enough with my Sorby bowl gouge. Need to get a bottom feeder somewhere soon and a curved toolset for sure this week. This if the first one I tried to cut as much as I could in one turning. Wasn't sure what finish I should use and left it. Currently sitting on dining table (walnut). From the pics you can seed what's happening. Live and learn I guess. Don't mind seed cracks just to the point I hope it still looks like my first real work of art.
Your tall vessel looks amazing! Maybe I should just spray lacquer it today? Thanks for the feedback.
 

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The first two downloads don’t work.
Strange they don't for me either but did originally when I pulled them out of the AAW newsletters. It looks like they're going through a 3rd party instead of directly from AAW I suspect that has something to do with it.

MORE: Looks like they are single use links that expire. I guess that's to prevent sharing?
 
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Strange they don't for me either but did originally when I pulled them out of the AAW newsletters. It looks like they're going through a 3rd party instead of directly from AAW I suspect that has something to do with it.

MORE: Looks like they are single use links that expire. I guess that's to prevent sharing?
Yes, I would imagine they're single use links tied to your membership login, I suspect - bear in mind that not all forum members are current AAW members, and I would imagine the AAW would rightfully wish to maintain the journal back issues as a members-only feature (otherwise, why would one want to pay annual dues if they could read back issues for nothing?) The journal and print media was one of the major reasons I finally upgraded from trial member to full member, myself...
 
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Norm, those are checks rather than true cracks. In this case, they probably have the same significance, but sometimes those are related to heat during turning or sanding and will magically decrease over time.
 
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For a 1 turn green bowl get the wall thickness down to 1/4” or less to reduce cracking. As for finish, I use oil finishing techniques on most of mine. Poly thinned 1:1 acts just like blo, danish, etc, apply same way flood on, keep wet 10-20 min, wipe off. I mix dye of various colors and intensities into the poly depending on the wood and desired outcome.
 

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For a 1 turn green bowl get the wall thickness down to 1/4” or less to reduce cracking. As for finish, I use oil finishing techniques on most of mine. Poly thinned 1:1 acts just like blo, danish, etc, apply same way flood on, keep wet 10-20 min, wipe off. I mix dye of various colors and intensities into the poly depending on the wood and desired outcome.
Sounds like a great idea! Do you mean poly varathane mix 1:1 with mineral spirits? What type of dye would you advise? I am new to this but also have to find suppliers in Canada if I can. If not I order from the U.S.. Thanks Doug.
 
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Thought the bowl was 10-12”. For 15-16”, 3/8-1/2” is more functional. I use Minwax semi gloss poly. Any brand of poly varnish will work, but some are higher viscosity which will effect absorption. Thinking Varathane has 2x or 3x stuff which needs more ms to get thin enough. I use Lockwood oil soluble powder dyes, and use about 25% acetone 75% naptha to dissolve into a hi intensity dye, then mix to taste with the thinned poly for thhe specific project.
 
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Thought the bowl was 10-12”. For 15-16”, 3/8-1/2” is more functional. I use Minwax semi gloss poly. Any brand of poly varnish will work, but some are higher viscosity which will effect absorption. Thinking Varathane has 2x or 3x stuff which needs more ms to get thin enough. I use Lockwood oil soluble powder dyes, and use about 25% acetone 75% naptha to dissolve into a hi intensity dye, then mix to taste with the thinned poly for thhe specific project.
Thanks for the info Doug. How long should you wait after you finish the one turning a green wood bowl on the lathe?
 
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I go by weight. Prep for drying, however you choose to do it - I use paper bags). Then weigh packaging and all. When it stops loosing weight its reached equilibrium. I keep mine in the house where temp and humidity are controlled. Type of prep, wood thickness, how wet when stored, where stored, etc play a role in how long to dry.
 
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Yes.....your choice for bowl thickness....some buyers do not like thin bowls....scared they may break it.....thickness can be artistic depend on blank
 
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