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What finish on offering plate?

Gerald Lawrence

Gerald Lawrence

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I have an idea of what might be best for this project but want some opinions. Have a possible project coming up to make from 12 to 16 offering plates. Hopefully this will be in white oak even tho the pews are red oak. I want the finish to be reparable and yet sturdy.

These are the finishes I am considering:

1. Poly; durable but more difficult to repair

2. Lacquer; reparable but not as durable as some other finishes to constant handling

3. Tru Oil ; very durable and supposed to be easily repairable, and maybe easy to apply .No longer available in aerosol.

4. WHAT is another I have left out?
 
I would use Waterlox. It is my favorite finish it is made for floors so the
:-). congregation can walk on the plate and it will hold up. :-)

Waterlox will not change the color much.
It does add a very slight amber cast but it is so slight that it is not usually noticed.

If restoration is required a light sanding and more coats of Waterlox will do the job.

1st coat - I sand to 320, wipe on Waterlox, wipe off excess after 5 minutes, dry overnight
2 nd coat - hand sand 400, wipe on Waterlox, wipe off excess, dry over night
3rd coat - hand rub with 0000 scotch bright, wipe on Waterlox, wipe off excess, dry over night
Repeat step 3 as required. Usually 4-5 coats give a deep enough finish.

Then buff with Beal buffing for a glossy look or use a little water and 0000 scotch brite to cut the gloss.

Here is a maple bowl with Waterlox. Not much color change except where painted.
1A1AD791-D6FB-4DE9-B29E-041B1291D2A7.jpeg
 
I have Waterlox, but not enough experience to comment on its durability. Based on the finishes that I work with I think polyurethane is the best. Does your congregation drop coins or folding money in the plates? Coins would scuff the finish faster than paper. Maybe use the spray on pickup truck bed liner in the plates for those who like to rattle coins. :D
 
Gerald Lawrence said:
Al had not thought of Waterlox. Have not tried it but have not been too fond of other waterbased I have tried. May have to get some and see.
Click to expand...
Waterlox is not water based. It is sort of like a thick watco.
I prefer it to watco because it imparts very little color change and it builds up faster.
 
Mineral oil and wax is not very durable, but what could be easier to repair, just put more on. Anyone in the church coud do it, no skill required.

Interesting to learn that Waterlox is for floors.
 
I have seen the bottom finished with a layer of felt to avoid the coin noise and the reception that he/she didn't add much $ or a lot.
 
I would use Minwax Wipeon poly possibly with a colored Danish Oil before hand if you want enhanced the oak. The finish layer does not have to be that thick. Look at prefinished flooring. The finish is not thick at all. You are walking on a few hundred molecules. I made a couple of shallow cherry collection bowls our congregation uses for a small small change benevolant offering before communion each month. I finished with Boiled Linseed Oil. After five years they show little wear, if anything I would consider it patina.
 
Mike Brazeau said:
I would use Minwax Wipeon poly possibly with a colored Danish Oil before hand if you want enhanced the oak. The finish layer does not have to be that thick. Look at prefinished flooring. The finish is not thick at all. You are walking on a few hundred molecules. I made a couple of shallow cherry collection bowls our congregation uses for a small small change benevolant offering before communion each month. I finished with Boiled Linseed Oil. After five years they show little wear, if anything I would consider it patina.
Click to expand...
Interesting idea. I just think of it accumulating dirt.
 
Watco oil is my choice for durability and renewability. The oil should be spread on, allowed to soak in, then wet sanded and wiped off. Note the rags will burn if the conditions are right or should I say wrong. The next applications, after about 2 days between, will follow the same procedure except a light sanding before applying the oil until the wood will not accept more oil. The final step is to wax with a clear solvent based wax. To reapply fresh oil will cut through the wax so no other prep work is necessary unless you need to repair major damage. There are some woods that do not work well with Oil but I have used this method on the entire inside of my home (red oak) and much of the furniture (walnut and cherry).
 
Does not sound appealing to rub out 16 of these. Was really hoping for something more durable that lacquer but also as easy to apply as it is. Thinking of going with the lacquer as that is what is used on most furniture in the last century
Thanks everyone for replies and Al I may have to try the Waterlox on something
 
Gerald, I used Minwax AO on mine and they are holding up very well. Easily repaired if you get a ding compared to poly. Probably about 6 coats and then buffed on my Beall. Be sure to make your bottom recess deep enought for the felt to be just below the end of the curve where it meets the bottom. Here is a video I did in case you missed it.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1_gCWUXf1w
 
I second the use of Waterlox for a durable finish. Contrary to the name, it is not water-based. I have used it to finish furniture that will get a lot of wear, ie, shelves underneath a "catchall" table for shoes, with success. I did, however, let it cure about a month after finishing per the manufacturers instructions.
 
You might consider General Finishes gel. It is a poly but, being wipe-on, much easier to restore/repair. Assuming you're turning kiln-dried, radial-sawn white oak planks, the GF gel should provide years with minimal warping, hopefully no cracking, and easy restoration with a maroon pad.
As I understand, poly is the superior finish for minimizing the hygroscopic property of wood - not sure how the wipe-on version compares but I would guess it is superior to the oils and probably to lacquer.
 
For the last year I've been using a lot of Rubio with great results. When I want it 'Food Safe' I just use the primary oil without accelerator. Finish looks about the same, it just takes a little longer to cure.

Some woods it's not so great on... like Bubinga. Guess it has to do with the oil in the woods.

Rick
 
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