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White diamond necessary?

Steven Forrest

Steven Forrest

Joined
Dec 23, 2014
Messages
218
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Location
Sebastopol, California
I generally finish things off with the Beall system, but have stopped using the white diamond step. I found that the white diamond could leave a bit of a residue that was noticeable on darker woods, and in general, it seemed like it wasn't really adding much to the equation. I am not doing mirror finishes/CA finishes - maybe it would be more critical for that use - but generally finishing with walnut/tung oil, or Seal a Cell (oil/poly). Am I missing a trick here, or is anyone else doing what I'm doing? Thanks.
 
You’re definitely right about not using it on dark wood, especially open pored ones like walnut. I think the white diamond improves the finish somewhat, but agree it’s a very small difference. For utilitarian pieces like salad bowls, I just buff with the Tripoli and call it a day.
 
For utilitarian pieces, I don't think WD is necessary. For high gloss, I find it makes a significant improvement. There are past threads on this forum where several people have commented that you can avoid white residue on dark woods by not overloading the buffing wheel with compound. Personally, I have not seen much residue, even on walnut. Perhaps a little residue when buffing a piece finished with walnut oil, but never with a finish containing some varnish. Also, when my white diamond stick is consumed (in about 5-10 years!) I will replace it with Vonax, which is a brown color.
 
Michael Nathal said:
For utilitarian pieces, I don't think WD is necessary. For high gloss, I find it makes a significant improvement. There are past threads on this forum where several people have commented that you can avoid white residue on dark woods by not overloading the buffing wheel with compound. Personally, I have not seen much residue, even on walnut. Perhaps a little residue when buffing a piece finished with walnut oil, but never with a finish containing some varnish. Also, when my white diamond stick is consumed (in about 5-10 years!) I will replace it with Vonax, which is a brown color.
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^^^^^ This has been my experience, as well....

My initial thought is the White Diamond was probably used excessively. In this 2nd step in the process, the white diamond needs to be used very sparingly......very very sparingly!

If you intend to refine the finish to the best that it can be done, then the White Diamond is necessary.

There was a time when I, too, considered eliminating the White Diamond. After experimenting with and without, I decided the best way to proceed was to refine the process......not get rid of the WD step entirely.

-----odie-----
 
When I do pens I finish with GluBoost which is a CA finish. This is a smooth film finish. When finishing with either micromesh or Zona paper if you don't have a thick enough finish you can get sanding residue in the pores of the wood which shows up as white spots. It's more noticeable in darker woods of course. You have to build up enough of a film finish so that you don't "sand" through the finish. With a bowl using an oil finish I found white in the pores of the wood when using white diamond. I know there are those that are absolutely convinced it can only be because the wheel is overloaded but in my experience that's not always the case. I believe there are still open pores on an oil finish. I have replaced white diamond with Vonax and my problem is solved. My 2 cents
 
When uasing white diamond or any other polishing compound, after charging the wheel, touch something you aren't finishing to the spinning wheel to to knock off the extra compound. This eliminates more than is necessary to get the job done in a cleaner fashion.
 
Larae Palmer said:
Please, Where did you obtain the Vonax?
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Yes, and I'd like to do a little exploratory research on this compound....any useful information and/or videos would be helpful.

-----odie-----
 
Dave Fritz said:
When I do pens I finish with GluBoost which is a CA finish. This is a smooth film finish. When finishing with either micromesh or Zona paper if you don't have a thick enough finish you can get sanding residue in the pores of the wood which shows up as white spots. It's more noticeable in darker woods of course. You have to build up enough of a film finish so that you don't "sand" through the finish. With a bowl using an oil finish I found white in the pores of the wood when using white diamond. I know there are those that are absolutely convinced it can only be because the wheel is overloaded but in my experience that's not always the case. I believe there are still open pores on an oil finish. I have replaced white diamond with Vonax and my problem is solved. My 2 cents
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My experience matches yours. With an oil finish, I still get white in the pores. I too am careful to NOT overload the wheel. I'm going to try Waterlox soon on a walnut bowl--which I'll build up until the wood won't absorb and then buff down to my desired amount of shine (Tip from my class with David Ellsworth). I may try white diamond on that as an experient. I think the Waterlox will probably fill the pores.
 
Your wheels have too much abrasive on them. Virtually every thing I turn is finished with the Beale system. I used to get white diamond residue on my walnut and other dark turnings. Someone told me to clean my wheel and then just use one quick swipe of the bar to charge the wheel. I havent had a problem since. I used the edge of a freshly cut board to clean the wheel. I can definitely see an improved appearance of the finish when I use white diamond.
 
Interesting. Looks like the Vonax is best suited to a CA finish.....although is usable for wood as a secondary purpose.

I'm not certain what the problem some people are having with the WD, but with most everything related to woodturning, time and meaningful effort is what refines the processes.....and, many people become frustrated if they don't achieve success instantaneously.

This is very much like those who swear their tools are sharp, when it's obvious their results require much more sanding than would have been necessary if the hypothesis were true.....

-----odie-----
 
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It seems other polishing compounds have been borrowed from other pursuits. Unless there are different forms of Tripoli. Another would be Novis polish which several turners use. Originally developed for plastics.

Tripoli is a cut compound used in softer metals, plastics and composites. The abrasive is a tripoli (micro crystalline structure) classified as a silica from a mine that is crushed and finely graded. Tripoli is a good cutting compound for aluminum, brass, copper, zinc, plastics and soft composites. Taken from: https://mcfinishing.com/resources/abrasivetech.pdf
 
gave up on white diamond 6 months ago. Bought some vonex. works ok, but decided the only thing really needed for my works is the carnuba so I have given up the tripoli as well. Nothing but carnuba from here on out
 
Carnauba does not polish your finish. It only applies wax. The tripoli buffs out scratched and other minor defects and leaves a mildly satin finish. The white diamond polishes the finish and brings it up to a gloss. Vonax seems to be sort of in between in my tests. It's almost as glossy as white diamond. Definitely more glossy than tripoly.
 
john lucas said:
Your wheels have too much abrasive on them. Virtually every thing I turn is finished with the Beale system. I used to get white diamond residue on my walnut and other dark turnings. Someone told me to clean my wheel and then just use one quick swipe of the bar to charge the wheel. I havent had a problem since. I used the edge of a freshly cut board to clean the wheel. I can definitely see an improved appearance of the finish when I use white diamond.
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Absolutely. Great answer John.
 
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