• Beware of Counterfeit Woodturning Tools (click here for details)
  • Johnathan Silwones is starting a new AAW chapter, Southern Alleghenies Woodturners, in Johnstown, PA. (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Paul May for "Checkerboard (ver 3.0)" being selected as Turning of the Week for March 25, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

White diamond necessary?

Joined
Dec 23, 2014
Messages
178
Likes
289
Location
Sebastopol, California
I generally finish things off with the Beall system, but have stopped using the white diamond step. I found that the white diamond could leave a bit of a residue that was noticeable on darker woods, and in general, it seemed like it wasn't really adding much to the equation. I am not doing mirror finishes/CA finishes - maybe it would be more critical for that use - but generally finishing with walnut/tung oil, or Seal a Cell (oil/poly). Am I missing a trick here, or is anyone else doing what I'm doing? Thanks.
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2023
Messages
97
Likes
413
Location
Louisville, KY
You’re definitely right about not using it on dark wood, especially open pored ones like walnut. I think the white diamond improves the finish somewhat, but agree it’s a very small difference. For utilitarian pieces like salad bowls, I just buff with the Tripoli and call it a day.
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2015
Messages
312
Likes
2,763
Location
Strongsville, Ohio
For utilitarian pieces, I don't think WD is necessary. For high gloss, I find it makes a significant improvement. There are past threads on this forum where several people have commented that you can avoid white residue on dark woods by not overloading the buffing wheel with compound. Personally, I have not seen much residue, even on walnut. Perhaps a little residue when buffing a piece finished with walnut oil, but never with a finish containing some varnish. Also, when my white diamond stick is consumed (in about 5-10 years!) I will replace it with Vonax, which is a brown color.
 

odie

TOTW Team
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
7,077
Likes
9,487
Location
Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
For utilitarian pieces, I don't think WD is necessary. For high gloss, I find it makes a significant improvement. There are past threads on this forum where several people have commented that you can avoid white residue on dark woods by not overloading the buffing wheel with compound. Personally, I have not seen much residue, even on walnut. Perhaps a little residue when buffing a piece finished with walnut oil, but never with a finish containing some varnish. Also, when my white diamond stick is consumed (in about 5-10 years!) I will replace it with Vonax, which is a brown color.

^^^^^ This has been my experience, as well....

My initial thought is the White Diamond was probably used excessively. In this 2nd step in the process, the white diamond needs to be used very sparingly......very very sparingly!

If you intend to refine the finish to the best that it can be done, then the White Diamond is necessary.

There was a time when I, too, considered eliminating the White Diamond. After experimenting with and without, I decided the best way to proceed was to refine the process......not get rid of the WD step entirely.

-----odie-----
 
Joined
Jul 24, 2008
Messages
712
Likes
187
Location
Montfort, Wisconsin
When I do pens I finish with GluBoost which is a CA finish. This is a smooth film finish. When finishing with either micromesh or Zona paper if you don't have a thick enough finish you can get sanding residue in the pores of the wood which shows up as white spots. It's more noticeable in darker woods of course. You have to build up enough of a film finish so that you don't "sand" through the finish. With a bowl using an oil finish I found white in the pores of the wood when using white diamond. I know there are those that are absolutely convinced it can only be because the wheel is overloaded but in my experience that's not always the case. I believe there are still open pores on an oil finish. I have replaced white diamond with Vonax and my problem is solved. My 2 cents
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2018
Messages
8
Likes
4
Location
Denver, CO
When uasing white diamond or any other polishing compound, after charging the wheel, touch something you aren't finishing to the spinning wheel to to knock off the extra compound. This eliminates more than is necessary to get the job done in a cleaner fashion.
 

odie

TOTW Team
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
7,077
Likes
9,487
Location
Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
Please, Where did you obtain the Vonax?

Yes, and I'd like to do a little exploratory research on this compound....any useful information and/or videos would be helpful.

-----odie-----
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2023
Messages
97
Likes
413
Location
Louisville, KY
When I do pens I finish with GluBoost which is a CA finish. This is a smooth film finish. When finishing with either micromesh or Zona paper if you don't have a thick enough finish you can get sanding residue in the pores of the wood which shows up as white spots. It's more noticeable in darker woods of course. You have to build up enough of a film finish so that you don't "sand" through the finish. With a bowl using an oil finish I found white in the pores of the wood when using white diamond. I know there are those that are absolutely convinced it can only be because the wheel is overloaded but in my experience that's not always the case. I believe there are still open pores on an oil finish. I have replaced white diamond with Vonax and my problem is solved. My 2 cents
My experience matches yours. With an oil finish, I still get white in the pores. I too am careful to NOT overload the wheel. I'm going to try Waterlox soon on a walnut bowl--which I'll build up until the wood won't absorb and then buff down to my desired amount of shine (Tip from my class with David Ellsworth). I may try white diamond on that as an experient. I think the Waterlox will probably fill the pores.
 

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Messages
8,321
Likes
3,576
Location
Cookeville, TN
Your wheels have too much abrasive on them. Virtually every thing I turn is finished with the Beale system. I used to get white diamond residue on my walnut and other dark turnings. Someone told me to clean my wheel and then just use one quick swipe of the bar to charge the wheel. I havent had a problem since. I used the edge of a freshly cut board to clean the wheel. I can definitely see an improved appearance of the finish when I use white diamond.
 

odie

TOTW Team
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
7,077
Likes
9,487
Location
Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
Interesting. Looks like the Vonax is best suited to a CA finish.....although is usable for wood as a secondary purpose.

I'm not certain what the problem some people are having with the WD, but with most everything related to woodturning, time and meaningful effort is what refines the processes.....and, many people become frustrated if they don't achieve success instantaneously.

This is very much like those who swear their tools are sharp, when it's obvious their results require much more sanding than would have been necessary if the hypothesis were true.....

-----odie-----
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 24, 2008
Messages
712
Likes
187
Location
Montfort, Wisconsin
It seems other polishing compounds have been borrowed from other pursuits. Unless there are different forms of Tripoli. Another would be Novis polish which several turners use. Originally developed for plastics.

Tripoli is a cut compound used in softer metals, plastics and composites. The abrasive is a tripoli (micro crystalline structure) classified as a silica from a mine that is crushed and finely graded. Tripoli is a good cutting compound for aluminum, brass, copper, zinc, plastics and soft composites. Taken from: https://mcfinishing.com/resources/abrasivetech.pdf
 
Joined
Jul 26, 2015
Messages
328
Likes
429
Location
Hot Springs, AR
gave up on white diamond 6 months ago. Bought some vonex. works ok, but decided the only thing really needed for my works is the carnuba so I have given up the tripoli as well. Nothing but carnuba from here on out
 

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Messages
8,321
Likes
3,576
Location
Cookeville, TN
Carnauba does not polish your finish. It only applies wax. The tripoli buffs out scratched and other minor defects and leaves a mildly satin finish. The white diamond polishes the finish and brings it up to a gloss. Vonax seems to be sort of in between in my tests. It's almost as glossy as white diamond. Definitely more glossy than tripoly.
 
Joined
Sep 23, 2022
Messages
62
Likes
103
Location
Johnstown, PA
Your wheels have too much abrasive on them. Virtually every thing I turn is finished with the Beale system. I used to get white diamond residue on my walnut and other dark turnings. Someone told me to clean my wheel and then just use one quick swipe of the bar to charge the wheel. I havent had a problem since. I used the edge of a freshly cut board to clean the wheel. I can definitely see an improved appearance of the finish when I use white diamond.
Absolutely. Great answer John.
 
Joined
Oct 1, 2008
Messages
705
Likes
1,124
Location
Sydney Australia
I have it and dont use it a lot, but its most useful when I do. I use it for polishing satin polyurethane finish up to the amount of gloss I prefer
 
Back
Top