My Craftsman 18" gave up the ghost and I am looking for advice for a 18 to 20" electric chainsaw to process logs into bowl blanks.
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Electric chainsaw
- Thread starter cascayou
- Start date
- Joined
- May 13, 2007
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I have a 16"craftsman and a 16" Stihl. The Stihl is pure quality, the Craftsman is something less. The Stihl a pleasure to use, the Craftsman was an agony and doesn't get used since picking up the Stihl.
I used a Makita a couple of times, and it is between the Craftsman and Stihl, but closer to the Stihl than the Craftsman.
You can’t go wrong with Stihl, Husqvarna, or Makita. You’re going to get adherents with all three brands. I have a Makita that I was able to buy off Craigslist and it’s done just fine. Not quite like a gas saw, but good for on-the-lathe trimming or late night blank prep.
Love my electric Stihl
Stihl without question
I had a McCulloch electric and it worked very well, except for clogging badly on rip cuts. A few things to consider in looking at electrics:
1. Generally, you can compare the power by looking at the amps--disregard horse power claims
2. You can get into trouble with your service wiring as some of the motors draw close to 15 amps
3. You can also get into trouble pulling too many amps through too long or too small an extension cord
4. Some electrics have a plastic sprocket to drive the chain, and you will probably get longer, better service from a metal sprocket
5. I burned up my McCulloch cutting wet wood when chips got caught someplace I didn't realize they could get to, and overloading the motor. The more expensive saws have overload protection, so this would not have happened.
In my limited experience, a high amp electric with a sharp chain is comparable to the lower priced, or lower powered, "homeowner" gas saws, but falls short of an intermediate level gas saw.
1. Generally, you can compare the power by looking at the amps--disregard horse power claims
2. You can get into trouble with your service wiring as some of the motors draw close to 15 amps
3. You can also get into trouble pulling too many amps through too long or too small an extension cord
4. Some electrics have a plastic sprocket to drive the chain, and you will probably get longer, better service from a metal sprocket
5. I burned up my McCulloch cutting wet wood when chips got caught someplace I didn't realize they could get to, and overloading the motor. The more expensive saws have overload protection, so this would not have happened.
In my limited experience, a high amp electric with a sharp chain is comparable to the lower priced, or lower powered, "homeowner" gas saws, but falls short of an intermediate level gas saw.
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I currently have a Stihl and love it. I have owned and used a Remington and Husqvarna. The Remington was a peach at under $100, but lacked the power I needed. The Husqvarna is a good choice, but would bog down on some of the larger logs I cut 14" and up. Just a couple of things, the biggest reason for getting an electric, in my opinion is noise. The neighbors get all grumpy when I crank up my Stihl 440 at 10pm, some people, right? The other thing is this; electric chain saws are just as dangerous or more so than a gas chain saw, most people think they have less power or torque, they don't, second if you are wearing chaps and a gas chain saw catches it, it will stop your saw, electric one usually won't stop. Do not get complacent! Meat cuts a whole lot easier than wood and it only takes one mistake.
Many who buy electrics do so to avoid the exhaust fumes so they can use the saw in the shop and/or on wood mounted in the lathe. They forget that that spinning chain is still throwing a fine mist of chain oil. They forget, that is, until they go "handle-over-spout" when they hit that slick floor, hopefully without something sharp in their hands.
I have the Makita and really like it. But, I believe it's rated for a 16" bar maximum. The Stihl site shows that the MSE220 is the only electric rated for an 18" - 20" bar. A local turner has one and it is a brute.
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Stay away from the Worx saws. I have had three burn out within the first hour or two of use. I was trimming up bowl blanks from wet logs of gum and birch when they failed.
I eventually gave up and moved outside with a gas husqvarna 355 saw. Much better way to go.
I eventually gave up and moved outside with a gas husqvarna 355 saw. Much better way to go.
went the other route
Until about a year ago I had some electronics in my side that made the doctor's strictly forbid me running a gas engine near it due to the ignition. Electric motors were a caution, not quite as bad.
I noticed harbor fright had a chainsaw that pulled an Oregon bar and chain for fifty bucks on sale. A few dollars more for the two year throw it on the counter and get another one guarantee. Bought one and found it to work very well for trimming on the lathe and knocking corners off of bowl blanks. Actually did some heavy work with it by lack of choice.
Unless you go very high dollar any of the electric chainsaws tend to be disappointing to those used to pro type gas saws. Best fix is to be set up to sharpen your own chains. I use a granberg file guide that gives very repeatable angles. A handful of other people including the saw companies sell the same basic design, typically thirty to seventy dollars. These hold a file and let you sharpen the chain on the bar in five or ten minutes without getting in a rush. The right chain on a saw and sharp chain will do more for happiness than almost anything else. There are micro chains out there of various types that are intended for serious use. Putting one of these chains on and sharpening it regularly will greatly increase satisfaction with most electric saws I suspect. There is an increased danger of kickback but I haven't noticed any practical difference when I swapped from homeowner to pro chain on my bigger(gas) saws.
Hu
Until about a year ago I had some electronics in my side that made the doctor's strictly forbid me running a gas engine near it due to the ignition. Electric motors were a caution, not quite as bad.
I noticed harbor fright had a chainsaw that pulled an Oregon bar and chain for fifty bucks on sale. A few dollars more for the two year throw it on the counter and get another one guarantee. Bought one and found it to work very well for trimming on the lathe and knocking corners off of bowl blanks. Actually did some heavy work with it by lack of choice.
Unless you go very high dollar any of the electric chainsaws tend to be disappointing to those used to pro type gas saws. Best fix is to be set up to sharpen your own chains. I use a granberg file guide that gives very repeatable angles. A handful of other people including the saw companies sell the same basic design, typically thirty to seventy dollars. These hold a file and let you sharpen the chain on the bar in five or ten minutes without getting in a rush. The right chain on a saw and sharp chain will do more for happiness than almost anything else. There are micro chains out there of various types that are intended for serious use. Putting one of these chains on and sharpening it regularly will greatly increase satisfaction with most electric saws I suspect. There is an increased danger of kickback but I haven't noticed any practical difference when I swapped from homeowner to pro chain on my bigger(gas) saws.
Hu
Stay away from Husqvarna!!! I had had a cheap 16" Remington from Harbor Freight for some years. About 3 years ago, the plastic sprocket wore out and I ordered a replacement online, installed it and it worked for just a few minutes and the motor burned out. How irritating. I decided to buy a "real" electric chain saw but I didn't know Stihl made one and went for a Husqvarna that cost ~$300 (ouch). It cut nicely at first but then the chain started jumping off the bar. I inspected the chain and found that some "hooks" that are supposed to engage the sprocket had worn out. I ordered two new chains and put one on. It cut nicely for a few hours and now it will not start. I have yet to find out what the problem might be.
I know people advocate gas chain saws over electric ones for many reasons. My problem with them is I am primarily a segmented turner and I don't use one enough and when I want to use it, most like it won't start. The electric ones start every time you pull the trigger, until it quits that is, like my current Husqvarna.
Does anyone need a brand new chain for a Husqvarna 316E?
who would use a chainsaw on Corian anyway? 
bring me that saw on Saturday - I'll fix it up and make good use of it.
bring me that saw on Saturday - I'll fix it up and make good use of it.
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who would use a chainsaw on Corian anyway?
bring me that saw on Saturday - I'll fix it up and make good use of it.
A logger in a Corian forest?
Andy,
An electric motor is pretty simple compared to a gas engine. Your trouble is likely an easy fix, like a loose wire or dirty switch. Tell you what, I’ll pay for the shipping from you to me and if I can’t get it running, I’ll send it back to you.
I have bought 4 over 16 yrs. There are a bunch sold under old famous chain saw brands that are cheaply made. A McCouloch in 1998 was a great saw for $90. Lasted 4 yrs. No way to fix it. Since then 2 duds for $115 or so. But now I have a Makita which works fine. Cost a lot more but great for trimming.