Was wondering what most people mount this too? The lathe, drill? Was told (but can't remember the reasoning) to not get the setup that has all 3 wheels on one bar that goes on the lathe. Thanks in advance
Was wondering what most people mount this too? The lathe, drill? Was told (but can't remember the reasoning) to not get the setup that has all 3 wheels on one bar that goes on the lathe. Thanks in advance
I made my own buffing stand from the old motor in my lathe, using the old lathe switches. This buffing station works great, but overpowered. It's a Leeson 1 1/2hp motor. I tried the Beale system on a 1/3hp motor, which was too small and kept bogging down. The ideal motor would probably be about 3/4hp to 1hp for the requirement of the Beale system.......
For sure, having more power than necessary is MUCH better than not enough power!
ooc
Odie, what is the rpm of your setup, or is it variable speed?
I bought the Don Pencil extension(12") when I got the beall system - it gets everything away from the headstock. Variable speed is nice to have while buffing.
Jeff, where did you buy that extension? Does it replace the normal mandrel or does screw into it?
Not sure about the 12" extension, but I personally use the 8" extension
screws right on to the lathe spindle, accepts both balls and wheels,
keeping away from the head stock a definite plus, have buffed out 18" platters with no issues regarding space......
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/3/-/8/39/-/4477/Hold-Fast-Long-Buffing-Adapter
hmmm I don't seem to have that issue Odie
with the 8" extension (I use almost all the time) with either wheels or buff balls
It seems to run steady, and I can apply all the force/pressure I need to, and haven't felt any vibrations at all.
could be your buff mandrel a bit warped/bent ?
I'm also considering the purchase of the Beall system and I'm convinced that I will purchase the wheels and bowl buffs. I would like input on the wheel size and bowl buff size that would be most appropriate---- I turn mostly small to medium sized bowls. Experienced input would be greatly appreciated.
I'm also considering the purchase of the Beall system and I'm convinced that I will purchase the wheels and bowl buffs. I would like input on the wheel size and bowl buff size that would be most appropriate---- I turn mostly small to medium sized bowls. Experienced input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Mark----I've been a woodworker for many years, however I've only been turning for about 6 months. I'm hooked----I've turned about 50 bowls in that time. What speed do you buff at with the wheels and the bowl buffs?
I noticed your buffs are exposed to all of the wood dust in your shop. When I bought my Beal buffs 6 years ago, I was advised to keep them in a plastic bag when not in use. This prevents contamination. Still using and have yet to clean or replace. Any other users ?
Thank you everyone----very helpful! Mark-- after 20 years of being a high school administrator---- it's therapeutic .
If you plan on using an additional 4th process with Renaissance Wax, get a separate wheel/ball for that also,
Do Not try to use the same wheel for Carnuba and Renaissance Wax as you'll muck it up for the Carnuba .............
All buffing done anywhere between 1500 - 2200 RPM with minor resistance/pressure on the piece being buffed.
Can you please expand on the difference between the carnauba wax and the renaissance wax? Sheen, food safe, purpose, feel, etc.?
Jerry, what is it specifically that prevents you from using the Renaissance and Carnauba waxes together?
Odie, I tried using the same wheel once, apply and buff the carnuba, then buff the renaissance with same wheel
the next piece I went to buff with the Carnuba and with the Renaissance residue on the wheel,
it streaked really badly, didn't seem to cover as well, and didn't seem to apply or dry the same.
Once I went to using different wheels, everything went back to normal re: application, sheen, drying,feel, etc.
Might just be me, but I noticed a difference both before and after, and prefer the final finish of the "after"
If I understand correctly, your findings aren't that the two waxes can be applied to the wheel, as I thought you meant.......but, that streaking occurred on the wood itself.
It could be there is a chemical compatibility issue, or otherwise resistance in the Renaissance and Carnauba waxes to combine, while the Black Bison and Carnauba may not.......?
Am curious about your using the Bison in combination with the Carnuba ....
What kind of finish is it giving you? , hardness/sheen/non-smudging? etc etc
and, you apply the Bison to the wheel itself (before or after running the carnuba across the wheel?), or to the piece ?
Also, does the Black Bison affect the wood's coloring at all?