About two years ago I started doing segmented turning and I used Titebond 3 to glue the segments and rings. I have been using Titebond 3 ever since it came on the market and it is my "go-to" wood glue. I like its strength and water resistance but I especially like that it is thinner than Titebond 1 or 2 which I believe allows it to absorb better into the wood. Also, and most important, it has a longer work time which comes into play when doing complex assemblies. Another woodworker told me that Titebond 1 or 2 is considered better for segmented turning because they make for more stable joints that result in the work piece surface staying smooth over time. I have examined the bowls and boxes that I made over a year ago and cannot see or feel any joint movement. I have asked many people and I have done considerable searching on the internet and I have yet to find information that would either confirm or disprove this claim. Any input on this topic would be appreciated.
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Best glue for segmented bowls
- Thread starter Michael Papero
- Start date
Titebond (Frankland) makes an "Extend" version of type II (and I think of the original as well) which has a much longer open time. I have never seen it in a store but it is available online. I have used it and like it for complicated glue ups where a long open time is needed.
I don't do segmenting so won't try and answer what is best for that. I will say that all of the Titebond products I have used (all 3 PCAs and their CA) have performed as advertised.
I don't do segmenting so won't try and answer what is best for that. I will say that all of the Titebond products I have used (all 3 PCAs and their CA) have performed as advertised.
We had Tommy Hartline (Alabama) do a demo on two piece hollow forms at our chapter last night. He said TB has a new adhesive that is called Titebond Trim. Seems it is a construction adhesive for installing trim as crown moulding, etc. If my memory serves me, it sets up in about 15 seconds and is very sturdy. Need to try it.
Ive used both II and III and never had an issues with failure.
Don
Don
I've glued stupid thin cross sections with plain old fashioned elmers white pva and it has lasted and lasted. Titebond has gone beyond white pva. I Built a full living room set of furniture in maple butcher block when it was popular back in the 1970s using white PVA. My coffee table is still going strong. So are several other pieces though the table is all I still possess.
I built a mahogany 12 string guitar using white PVA about the same time maybe late 70s. IT's still holding up and even been through a flood that cracked and warped it.
I built a mahogany 12 string guitar using white PVA about the same time maybe late 70s. IT's still holding up and even been through a flood that cracked and warped it.
Been doing segmented work for about 8 - 10 years and have had no trouble ( at least the I can see) with TB3. Use about gal every 6 to 9 mo. Mostly bowls and vases. When starting I made bottoms as segmented sections and had 3 separate, since use solid bottom with no problems.
Bob
Bob
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About ten years ago I remodeled our bedroom and installed crown molding. I used Titebond Trim glue which was fairly new at the the time. It is a very thick white glue with a fairly quick tack time, but I still used a nail gun. The only reason for the glue was that the molding was made of a couple different types of trim. I also glued the mitered joints. Unless the formula has changed since then I don't think that it would be very good for woodturning applications.
Thanks, Bill. Trying to remember what he specifically said about it. Senior moment?
Hy Tran,
Great article, thanks for posting
Great article, thanks for posting