Finish after mineral oil

[jwavem]

When I use Mineral Oil as a sanding lubircant am I limited to oil base finishes, or can I use wipe-on poly? If I can use wipe-on poly how long should the Mineral Oil dry before applying the poly? Will the Mineral oil change the color of the wood? So many questions! Thanks for the help.
jwavem

 

[Mark Mandell]

First, we need to be clear up that mineral oil will not dry, ever [relatively speaking].

Second, so long as the oiled surface has stopped weeping (small wet spots, etc. appear).

Then your poly, which is an oil-based finish, will go over the MO just fine. As it polymerizes, it will incorporate the MO into it's structure and seal the surface to the extent that poly will do so anyway.

If you want to get a bit of extra surface sealing, you can put on a couple of coats of 1 lb. cut dewaxed shellac as a binding/barrier coat, but this is purely optional and not needed.

M

 

[jwavem]

Thanks Mark

First, we need to be clear up that mineral oil will not dry, ever [relatively speaking].

Second, so long as the oiled surface has stopped weeping (small wet spots, etc. appear).

Then your poly, which is an oil-based finish, will go over the MO just fine. As it polymerizes, it will incorporate the MO into it's structure and seal the surface to the extent that poly will do so anyway.

If you want to get a bit of extra surface sealing, you can put on a couple of coats of 1 lb. cut dewaxed shellac as a binding/barrier coat, but this is purely optional and not needed.

M

No, I didn't know poly was an oil finish. Ain't I smart.

 

[Mark Mandell]

Just To Be Sure

No, I didn't know poly was an oil finish. Ain't I smart.

I said that, of course, because every wipe-on poly I've ever seen has been oil based. Thus if your container says "clean up with mineral spirits" rather than with "soap & water", you're good to go. If, however, it's water clean up, the shellac barrier coats become required, and you should increase the "cut" to 1-1/2 lbs., use three light, but even, coats, and allow to dry well (2 days min.) before applying the poly.

M

 

[georgetroy]

You did not say what the use was for. Mineral Oil can also be applied over a tung oil or urethane finish. For salad bowls a product called Preserve works great. We use Mineral Oil to maintain our butcher block. I do not recommend Mineral oil for an art bowl. GT

 

[Mark Mandell]

George,

He's using the MO as a sanding lubricant (I do also) rather than as a preservative. I, like you, use it for treenware, although I cook it with about 10% parafin.

M

 

[georgetroy]

I could pay closer attention to the post Mark. I read the Post right before Nap time. At any rate I would use Urethane oil as a lubricant. GT

 

[Mark Mandell]

Secret's Out

I read the Post right before Nap time.

Now we ALL know how you stay so beautiful!!!

 

[dkulze]

I only use mineral oil when I'm making a bowl or vessel that is going to be used for food. As it doesn't dry and is completely non-reactive in the digestive system, this allows for light washing and reapplying regularly. In any piece that is for show, I stay away from it. As a sanding lubricant, I use water or slow drying eurythane oil, though you gotta watch the heat buildup cause it will start curing the oil and you can get gummy.

Dietrich