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I do it manually. Is there a jig that you use to sharpen it?
Do you mean one wing longer than the other. It's easy to do with the Oneway Wolverine or any other jig similar. Just grind longer and move the gouge to grind as far back as you wish. Many people do this accidentally by simply staying too long on one side.
Thanks for posting the video. You are getting your catches while doing the inside because you don't have the handle far enough away from you. This means you don't have the bevel pointing in the direction you intend to go. consequently when you touch the wood it tries to skip on you. John Jordan once told me, start the cut gently. If your at the wrong angle it will be rejected gently. Start it rough and it rejects it rough. What you want to do is aim the bevel in the direction you want to go. This often means moving the handle further out than you think. Then start the cut gently. Once it starts you have a small shoulder for the bevel to ride on and the cut will proceed nicely.
Then angle you grind the right side doesn't have anything to do with why the tool is catching. A lot of it is because you are forcing the cut. Relax, slow down, let the tool do the cutting. With a lighter grip you can better feel the bevel on the wood. We are all starting to use the term gliding the bevel or guiding the bevel rather than riding. Riding the bevel implies that you push against it . In reality you steer the bevel like using the rudder of a boat and the cutting edge will move in the direction you want to go.
I'd like to hear some discussion on way you are sharpening from other turners. Using the soft portion of the belt rather than the platten area produces a rounded bevel. There are different feelings on this. Johannes Michelson's bevel seems to be rounded as well as Eli Avisera's skew. I've been playing with it a little and the verdict is still out for me. I find it harder find the bevel when rolling beads but maybe a little more forgiving for starting a cut but really don't have enough experience with it yet to have a valid opinion.
You seem to be taking way too much time to sharpen. Watch for sparks to come over the edge and then stop. Repeated passes only remove more metal, they don't make it sharper unless of course you aren't getting the grind all the way to the tip. I know that takes time to learn. I ground away my first tool fairly quickly.
I don't see a reason for your grind in the way that you turn. An Ellsworth grind with his jig or the standard grind straight off the Oneway Wolverine should do you fine. Your grind will work. I use gouges with both grinds.
Jake, I've little experience turning bowls, but I see a pattern in the way you present the tool when you're getting catches. It looks to me like you begin the cut with the flute at 1:00 o'clock and the tool skates off to the left. Then you correct the flute to 2:30-3:00 o'clock and it proceeds OK. The experienced bowl turners need to validate the significance of my observation, but that happens over and over in your video.
Jake.......
You look to have spent a great deal of effort perfecting your double bevel grind.........but, it's my opinion that your long edge on the left side of the flute is your problem. I haven't used your progressive bevel grind on the internal shape of a bowl, so you can take my thoughts for what they're worth. It does look like the shape itself would be prone to catching with the way you are presenting it to the wood. There is very little positive control on the left side of the flute, but this gradually gets better as the tool progresses closer to the center where it levels out.
I am mostly using a standard bowl grind done at various bevel angles. This is done with the Wolverine using the V arm. Certainly my grind, and style is completely different than yours. Most of my internal cuts are near the tip and slightly to the right side of the flute. A long sharpened edge is not needed here in order to present the most useful cutting edge to the wood.
ooc
Interesting to watch. You need to spend more time using the nose of the gouge. If you lay the bottom of the flute parallel to the curve of the piece, you can stop those big wood-wasting kick-outs when hollowing. I use a plunge and roll technique for hogging, personally. Gouge is ground more or less symmetrical, because I, too, freehand on a grinder.
Hollowing sequence. http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n28/MichaelMouse/?action=view¤t=HollowTwo001.mp4 The pillar is left in for remount of the dry piece after the wood cures. Shavings, not chips are a good thing. You get chips because of the high pitch angles you use. If you lower the pitch for broad, not deep cutting, your control and surface would benefit. You can get a good idea of my flute direction by watching the shavings eject. The run around the flute and depart at about 90 degrees to the nose.
Here's seasoned wood with a nice, controlled entry. First is to take energy away from the turning by slowing the lathe down, second is to enter as narrow as possible, under control. http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/?action=view¤t=Inside.mp4 Second sequence is back to the finishing gouge.
I finish with a completely different gouge. It's all nose. http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n28/MichaelMouse/?action=view¤t=CherryPeelIn.mp4 Even thin shavings on dry wood often hold together across the endgrain, because there's so little stress when you slice.
I use a gouge ground similarly to your left side for hollowing endgrain, but it's a shallow, "detail" gouge. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/a63b77ab.jpg
It shaves the interior smoothly and ejects the shavings down the flute. Sure beats scraping, hosing and maybe jamming on the dust! http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/725a28f2.jpg
If the flutes are too up and down, the wings are more prone to catching. I have my gouge rolled over between 45 and 90 degrees all the time. As John said, moving the handle more away from you will help keep the skipping to a minimum.
I have heard of and seen the grind you use, but can't see that it has any advantages. I only have one swept back grind gouge, the rest are more of a fingernail grind. I use scrapers for roughing.
robo hippy