You have to remove the pulley to get the old motor off the bracket. I just used wood wedges between the pulley and bracket and tightened them a little at a time until the pulley let loose.
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Lathe upgrade dilemma...
- Thread starter David Wrate
- Start date
I rotate the head to 45 degrees and turn in the forward direction. I also do this for HF using Trent Bosch's hollowing system. It's the only one that allows this because it's mounted to the banjo, not the tailstock or bed ways.
The Stubby 750 I bought from John Jordan 22 years ago has proved to be solid, reliable and a joy to work with...One could do worse, indeed.
A minimum speed of 250 rpm would be a show stopper for me. One other point, another reason for large swings is if you start with a chain-sawed blank instead of a round, band-sawn blank, you need extra capacity until you get it round.
Makes sense to me, I just curious if I was missing something obvious due to the Coronets marketing. Wouldn't be the first time I went down the wrong path. For me trying to learn guitar right-handed was deceptively easy at first. Doing all the complicated contortions to fret a chord with my dominant hand was a breeze. Took me a couple months to realize my limiting factor was plucking the strings fast enough.
I have the Simple Hollowing System. I can turn the headstock 45 degrees and am still able to hollow.
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Good for your back.
Seems like your method would limit the height of the form.
I could use the Jamison system or the Simon hope to hollow on lathe with the head rotated 45
But doing so would not improve posture or performance
With both I would be height limited by the banjo and I would get a lot more vibration using the tool rest off to the side
When My hollowing is over the tool post with the banjo post over the bed there is almost no vibration.
The hope base plate will swing about 10” off the bed putting the post in good position
The Jamieson handle I could use my mini lathe backrest or a floor mounted backrest to get in fron to the 45 degree rotation.
I thought a follow-up to this thread would be good.
Despite my post about not going for the Nova 1624 on sale, after a lot of consideration I did buy one. A bunch of reasons came into play:
1) As a hobbyist I have a hard time justifying a $4000 lathe
2) The size is perfect for my shop.
2) Calls to my local clubs revealed nothing for sale.
3) I sold my Rikon for more than I paid.
4) KMS Tools had a very good deal. For $1100 out the door I got a 1624 with the factory cast iron legs. Basically my Rikon plus $300 got me the Nova.
Started assembling it today and I'm very pleased.
Despite my post about not going for the Nova 1624 on sale, after a lot of consideration I did buy one. A bunch of reasons came into play:
1) As a hobbyist I have a hard time justifying a $4000 lathe
2) The size is perfect for my shop.
2) Calls to my local clubs revealed nothing for sale.
3) I sold my Rikon for more than I paid.
4) KMS Tools had a very good deal. For $1100 out the door I got a 1624 with the factory cast iron legs. Basically my Rikon plus $300 got me the Nova.
Started assembling it today and I'm very pleased.
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Wow sounds like a great price.
All cleaned up and assembled.
Nice looking outfit for only 300 more than your lathe. You will like the live center that came with it.
Thanks I’m quite impressed with it so far.
Actually I splurged on the Nova live centre kit
Nice buy David! Looking forward to seeing the pieces that come off it 
Thanks! Me tooNice buy David! Looking forward to seeing the pieces that come off it
I did the belt change for my first year then did the drive update. Wish I had it from day one. Is it a necessity? No, but it sure is nice depending on what you are working on. Touch up a bowl with a gouge and then back to sanding almost instantly.
This is my first large lathe and I really like it. But, have never used others.
I did a few changes to day to see how it went and it was ok. Certainly not like spinning a dial but I can deal with it till I gather the parts for the change.
I am very impressed with it's smoothness and heft. I'm going to add a shelf to the legs for a cabinet and some additional weight.
Good for you and that triple bearing live center is one of the best if not the best there are, not a splurge but a wise choice
Thanks Bill. It was reviews from here that convinced me on the live centre setupGood for you and that triple bearing live center is one of the best if not the best there are, not a splurge but a wise choice
Congratulations on your new purchase. Getting the 1624 with the accessory cast iron legs will address most of the limitations with unbalanced loads on the lathe that I described earier. It's essentially now the same platform as the Saturn model.
Definitely pursue some form of electronic speed control, but my first suggestion is to try and acquire the outrigger accessory (new or used, they are discontinued) . You can swivel the head to 22* and turn with the banjo, but the outrigger lets you swivel the head further. If you are unsuccessful finding a Nova outrigger, then look at Record Power. They make a dog leg extension for their banjo that might also work for Nova lathes.
Definitely pursue some form of electronic speed control, but my first suggestion is to try and acquire the outrigger accessory (new or used, they are discontinued) . You can swivel the head to 22* and turn with the banjo, but the outrigger lets you swivel the head further. If you are unsuccessful finding a Nova outrigger, then look at Record Power. They make a dog leg extension for their banjo that might also work for Nova lathes.
Thanks Mark, I'm lining up parts for the VFD conversion.
Is the sole purpose of the outrigger to turn larger than 16"?
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I looked at the DVR motor change and saw it was like a thousand bucks. Is there a different way to get that variable speed dial without buying the nova motor? Is that what you're talking about @David Wrate? Just sticking a VFD on the stock motor? Is there a writeup someone can share with me?
I'm not willing to spend a grand to upgrade my 1624, I'd maybe consider it for a couple hundred bucks though.
I'm not willing to spend a grand to upgrade my 1624, I'd maybe consider it for a couple hundred bucks though.
Sort of yes. To get variable speed one needs a suitable 3-phase motor. In this case a 145TC frame motor. Also need a device caleld a variable frequency drive which alters the frequency from the usual 60 Hz to a user controlled frequency which provides variable speed.
I have this setup on my metal mill and I never have to change belts, work great.
This is the write up that @Ken Crea did for his conversion
No, not for me. In fact I've never turned anything that large. Rotating the head stock gives you more approaches to your turning (or sanding). It can improve access, provide better ergonomics, relieve back strain. In general it opens more turning possibilities.
I'll ke
I'll keep my eyes open for that setup.
That is the main reason I bought a lathe with a pivoting headstock. I have a lot of neck and spine problems and that lets me spend more time at the lathe.
It was definitely easier to hollow the inside with the headstock swung out to the first position (22 degrees I think)
odie
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Well....OK!
You've got the same capacity I've been working with......like forever! My opinion about lathe swing, is about 20" is ideal.....but, If I never have more than the 16" I've got now, that would be ok with me. I purchase the wood I use for turning my bowls, and I generally don't even bother with anything over about 14", unless it's really an exceptional piece I can't live without! You'll find out that a little bit of leeway there is good to have, but if you absolutely had to.....you can turn a bowl just shy of 16". On a 14" bowl, I have to dismount it to move the banjo from one side to the other....a bit of a hassle, but very do-able.
I've also been turning on 1 1/2hp motor for a long time now. This is enough power to turn just about anything you can put on that lathe....just about! I think 2hp might overcome those times that I have to back off a cut because of bogging down....but, that doesn't happen frequently enough to be a big deal. (I'm one that doesn't usually hog off the wood as much as a few other turners do, anyway.....and, that is more by choice, than by the power limitations.)
I've never turned on a swivel headstock lathe, but I've known for some time now that it's the only improvement that might make me spend the money for an upgrade.......someday! Sliding headstocks would be such a hassle for me, because I'd have to move all my junk off the end of lathe to turn off the right end of the lathe......besides there's no room for it anyway. In my opinion, a rotating headstock is the only way to go!
The things I wouldn't like about the Nova, is the fixed controls on the headstock, and the weight. Even my old Woodfast lathe is 525 lbs, and that's a bit more than the Nova, IIRC.
Good going, David......and, good luck in your future turning efforts...
-----odie-----
The 145T frame motor 1800 RPM is a very common motor in industry. Maybe you could find a used one cheaper
@odie I'm definitely not keen on the position of the controls. On my Rikon the controls were on the front-side of the right hand end of the bed. Very convenient. I suspect that it would be an easy task to make the Nova controls into a mobile box with some rare earth magnets on the back so I could stick it on the front of the lathe bed. The Record Envoy and Regent have such and arrangement.
The swivel headstock is awesome; I started hollowing out the little cherry bowl without moving the headstock and immediately ran into the tailstock and the wall. Fifteen seconds later I had the head swung out and I was back in business without interference. This means I can keep the machine close to the wall which matters when one's shop is only 9' wide.
The 1624 is close to 300 lbs with the cast iron legs. I have a plan to add another couple hundred pounds with a shelf, some concrete blocks and a tool cabinet for chucks etc.
@Vincent Vogel I'm searching for a used 3-phase 145TC motor but I live on an island and there is a very small used machinery market locally.
The swivel headstock is awesome; I started hollowing out the little cherry bowl without moving the headstock and immediately ran into the tailstock and the wall. Fifteen seconds later I had the head swung out and I was back in business without interference. This means I can keep the machine close to the wall which matters when one's shop is only 9' wide.
The 1624 is close to 300 lbs with the cast iron legs. I have a plan to add another couple hundred pounds with a shelf, some concrete blocks and a tool cabinet for chucks etc.
@Vincent Vogel I'm searching for a used 3-phase 145TC motor but I live on an island and there is a very small used machinery market locally.
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I added a shelf and weight under my Envoy. It made it too hard to clean So I took it out. The Envoy also weighs a little over 300 pounds. I have maxed out the diameter of a log that was not balanced very well and the lathe handled it very well. Never had a problem with the lathe moving.
Cleaning up under the lathe is a definite concern so your comment is well taken Rusty.
Odie's comment on having to demoint large diameter work reminds me to point out another virtue of rotating headstocks. Not only will they rotate to put the work in front of the bed, be they can also rotate the other way to put the work behind the bed and out of theway of the banjo. Makes it easier to turn on the chuck side of the workpiece, too.
( @odie , if you ever get the bug again to consider a new lathe, the Nova Nebula has rotating & sliding headstock and has controls in a movable pendent.)
( @odie , if you ever get the bug again to consider a new lathe, the Nova Nebula has rotating & sliding headstock and has controls in a movable pendent.)
Is the Nebula actually for sale now?
The Teknatool site has it here: https://www.teknatool.com/products/lathes/nova-nebula-18-smart-direct-drive-lathe-sku-55600/
But it's not listed under their lathes.
I can't say. They had it on display in their booth at AAW Chattanooga and were demonstrating with it, but that's not the same as having them in stock.
odie
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Mark.....That Nebula looks like a pretty nice lathe.
It says it's over 530 lbs, and I wouldn't want to go any lighter than what I have now. (My Woodfast is listed at 525 lbs.)
I've been spoiled by the Powermatic style pinch blocks of the Robust Sweet 16 banjo I'm using now, and would hate to go back to a grub screw type of locking mechanism for the tool rest post.....that would be a negative from my POV.
The specs say it'll go down to 100rpm, and that might be ok. My VFD goes down to about 25 rpm. (I'm guessing) It's nice to have when you want it to turn slow, but I seldom need that slow of an rpm.
That constant speed technology is interesting. I'm not sure if that is an advantage in woodturning, or not.
Seems like a number of foreign manufacturers are wising up, and adding a pivoting headstock option to their premium lathes. I'm betting sooner or later, Powermatic and Robust will follow suit and add it.....but, they are falling behind in the trend so far!
-----odie-----
I think Robust was the first to use the pinch blocks for the tool rest, and from the variations I have tried, they are far better than the standard set screws or the banjos that have a slot cut in them so supposedly they can pinch better. The pinch blocks may be one of those things that has been around forever. I do wish they were set in a track of some sort so they wouldn't rotate when you pull out a tool rest. I think the PM 3520C did that.
I do know of several people who have sliding headstocks and don't use them because of all the stuff at that end of the lathe. Sliding and/or pivoting headstocks are the way to go for bowl turning. Huge back savers!
robo hippy
I do know of several people who have sliding headstocks and don't use them because of all the stuff at that end of the lathe. Sliding and/or pivoting headstocks are the way to go for bowl turning. Huge back savers!
robo hippy
odie
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Those pinch blocks regularly get turned and don't allow the next tool rest to enter without sticking your finger in there to straighten them out.
I've heard that the pinch blocks were originally a Powermatic design.....can anyone confirm that?
-----odie-----
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The first powermatic 3520 had the pinch blocks
That's correct. It says on the Robust site that Powermatic first came up with the pinch blocks. They scrapped the design for awhile but brought it back on the 3520C