Well, WD 40 works. I used to use PAM, which is canola oil. If the blade is stalling, 2 main reasons. One is the bend in/on the blades. If you lay one on a circle template, you will notice the tip goes straight rather than following that 'perfect' curve/arc of a circle. That is why it always drifts to the outside of the kerf. I have several that I have 'tweaked' a little extra curve onto the tip, and they don't bind as much in the cut as the standard blades do. Ever burn your fingers and hand on the middle of the curve of the blade when taking the blade out of the kerf? Another reason for stalling is the cutting tip frequently is below center. I always have my tool rest at least 1/4 inch above center height. If you have ever tried to remove the tenon stub in the bottom of your core, as soon as the tip engages the wood, it will drop way below center. There is a lot of flex in the system, which is by design. Just lifting the handle up with the longest blade does not keep your cutting point at center height.
robo hippy