? on Bosch Hollowing tools

[KEW]

I cannot find an email address or phone number on Trent Bosch's website.
Can anyone tell me if the cutting bits for Bosch's hollowing tools are:
1) Secured by set screw or by CA glue?
2) Is square or round (the bit) where it goes into the shank?
Thanks!

 

[James McClure]

My dad has a set of Bosch bars and if I remember correctly, they are glued in and are round.

 

[Gordon Seto]

Kurt,

Trent Bosch's site:
http://www.trentbosch.com/

Gordon

 

[KEW]

DOH!

Thanks.

 

[Frank Kobilsek]

Kurt

I like my Bosch bars. I have two sets 5/8 & 3/4. I rounded out my boring bar collection with a Don Pencil 3/4 bent bar with the big round scraper disc for smoothing things just a bit.

Trent is a great guy and happy to answer emails with your questions. It may take a few days but you'll get an answer.

Great way to spend your economic stimulus check.

Frank

 

[KEW]

Thanks for your comments, Frank.
Both the Bosch and the Jordan hollowing tools have good, streamlined profiles to optimize clearance when working through a small hole. However, the Jordan tools run about 30% more expensive than the Bosch tools.
Unfortunately, I am anal about keeping the bits sharp and want to be able to buy extra bits, sharpen them all at once, and swap them out as I hollow. A torch and CA glue every time I changed bits would be a deal killer for me.

 

[James McClure]

Just a suggestion

Why not just sharpen the bits while they are still mounted in the bar? David Ellsworth shows this in his videos. It is a pretty easy/quick/simple process.

 

[Steve Worcester]

Thanks for your comments, Frank.
Both the Bosch and the Jordan hollowing tools have good, streamlined profiles to optimize clearance when working through a small hole. However, the Jordan tools run about 30% more expensive than the Bosch tools.
Unfortunately, I am anal about keeping the bits sharp and want to be able to buy extra bits, sharpen them all at once, and swap them out as I hollow. A torch and CA glue every time I changed bits would be a deal killer for me.

Use a diamond hone with it mounted, it will work just fine. The Ellsworth method of sharpening is difficult to master with a curved bar.

 

[KEW]

Thanks for the comments. I am still trying to find my way on tools/strategy for hollowing so appreciate alternatives.

 

[John Nicholas]

Bosch Hollowing

I bought my set at the Overland Park Symposium in 2005. He uses CA glue.

I sharpen mine without removing them after they are once mounted. YMMV.

John

 

[KEW]

As a follow-up, I received a response from Trent.

James remembers correctly - they are round at the shank and use CA glue.
Trent makes a good point that the set screws on this scale are small and apt to strip out.

Are there any Jordan hollowing tool users out there with lots of time on their tools? I have looked at his set screw and it is clear he has made an extra effort to fit the biggest set screw possible without compromising the profile of the tool.
Can anyone tell me if he was successful?
Thanks!

 

[Steve Worcester]

I use them both and have had no issues with the screw stripping on the Jordan tools or the tips coming loose (on either).

 

[Rob Wallace]

No problems here....

I have both the "regular" sized Jordan Hollowing set, and the "mini" set, and I have never (over about 3 years use) had a problem with the bit holding screws coming loose.

I'm in full agreement with Kurt Whitley - I also use John Jordan's bit-sharpening jig, and to remove, sharpen, and replace a dull bit takes not much more than 5 minutes. (No torch needed...) This was one of my considerations when thinking about buying a hollowing set using a screw-held bit vs. a glued-in bit. I have since bought a few extra bits (straight and for the curved tools) that I keep in a 'sharp reserve' set, so I can do a swap-out a dull bit quickly, and get back to hollowing. I then sharpen all three 'spare' bits at the same time when I get the jig out.

I've not used the Bosch set, but can tell you that I am very happy with the John Jordan hollowing set. I have also added a Sorby curved neck hollowing scraper and a slicer tool to the set for added versatility.

CAVEAT:

I use a Sorby armbrace handle instead of Jordan's handle. I just didn't like the design and feel of Jordan's handle, and those thin metal arm 'supports' look unsafe to me - I just don't like this design, and in my estimation, I consider it somewhat unsafe. Think about getting a bad catch and having one of those thin metal pieces whack you in the arm or worse, the chest....!) I think Mike Jacofsky also uses an armbrace handle that enables a "pistol" type grip (I don't know if he uses a Sorby or Stewart), and he emphasizes that hand and finger position while holding the handle is very important while hollowing, both for control and for fatigue. I didn't think Jordan's 'simple angle' design felt very good to me at all. The Sorby and Stewart handles will hold the Jordan, Bosch, and other 3/4" tool shanks.

If you get a chance, try a few different handle and tool systems (even if only to just hold them) and see what feels best to you This is one of the many benefits of attending a turning meeting that has a large number of tool vendors present.

Good luck and turn safely!

Rob

 

[Ron Warman]

Bosch Hollowing tools

I have the Sorby, Jordon and Bosch tools. My technique may be the problem but I find when I use the Bosh tools the tip gets hot enough to come loose and do bad things inside the vessel so I don't use it at all now. Trent says this is a safety factor? I have never liked the way the Sorby System felt so I use the Jordon tools in the Sorby handle. The set screw is on the bottom of each bar so it dosen't fill up with dust which is the major reason most set screws strip out. The hex can't go in far enough if the screw is full of dust.

 

[Bill Pottorf]

Bosch boring bars.

I own both of the Bosch boring bars and several other bars as well. I have used the Bosch bars a lot on narrow opening hollow forms, where they really shine and work great. You cannot get 3/4" bars into some of the openings as effectively. That is the main use for his bars. I resort to 1 1/8" bar with articulated cutters (Sirigas) which was home made for deep hollowing, longer than 12" off of the rest and when there is a large enough opening to gain access.

As for replacing the round cutters in the Bosch bar, I have replaced 2 of them. You just heat the bar up with a small torch to loosen the CA glue and replace with new cutters. This is a very easy task and quick. Sharpening can be done with the dry grinder to shape initially, but use the diamond hone between for sharpening most of the time. I like his bars and use them quite a bit. I do use them with a "D" handle (Jamieson), forgot to relate that. I sharpen my cutters while in his tool. No need to heat up and remove the cutter, which is much too small to hold by hand and sharpen anyway. Trent and I both tend to sharpen the cutters on the outside of the grinding wheel for shaping and use a diamond hone to keep the cutter sharp.

I think that whoever is loosening the CA glue on the cutter is overworking the bar for too long a period while hollowing. This tends to overheat the bar and cutter. Do the hollowing in smaller sections at a time with a minute or two rest between cutting periods.

 

[hockenbery]

I vote for CA glued tips over Set screw tips.

I have about a dozen hollowing bars made By CA Savoy, Stewart, Bosch, and the Elsworth.
Some have set screws some CA glued tips.

I have had set screw tips come loose (operator error)
I have never had a CA glued tip come loose.

My recommendation for a set of commercially available tools is the Bosch Straight and Hook with the Jamieson handle.
The Jordan straight and hook with a jamieson handle would be a fine alternative.

For my bigger pieces i use a CA Savoy 1 1/4 diameter bar with 1/2 tip inserts it is a great great tool.
thanks CA
happy turning,
Al