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Opinions wanted

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In waiting for a specialised C&C forum I post here. This is my first test of gluing up wedge shaped pieces to a blank. I cannot remember having seen a similar glue up and maybe there is a reason. Walnut, maple and wenge 19x6 cm. The first tricky part was visualising how the crossings would look like in the finished bowl. The second was gluing up the blank. I probably spent more time preparing and gluing up the blank, than for turning and finishing the bowl. I appreciate all comments, whether it is something you like or some changes you think could improve it. Also of course if you have any questions. Made as a bowl from a board.

K3_07048LRs-2.jpgK3_07054LRs-2.jpgK3_07050LRs-2.jpg
 

Dave Landers

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I don't normally like the bowl-from-board look (personal preference).
But I do like the wedgie effect you've done here.

I like the black stripes curving thru the inside of the bowl, but from the outside they show up as straight lines which seems to me to conflict with the angles and curves of the rest of the piece.
 
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Beautiful bowl. My only comment would be to spread the stripe to the outer edge instead of the center area. However it is a visual thing and if done that way I might say the opposite.
 
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I don't normally like the bowl-from-board look (personal preference).
But I do like the wedgie effect you've done here.

I like the black stripes curving thru the inside of the bowl, but from the outside they show up as straight lines which seems to me to conflict with the angles and curves of the rest of the piece.
That is because I turned the bowl to show the wedges, From the side they show up and show the bowl shape.K3_07056LRs.jpg
 
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Beautiful bowl. My only comment would be to spread the stripe to the outer edge instead of the center area. However it is a visual thing and if done that way I might say the opposite.
Or both as in this much larger bowl 36x20 cm. Only the inner stripes would not look nice. Only outer maybe, but in this case I think I prefer all the stripes.


K3_06779LRs.jpg
 
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I like the inside and side views! The wenge rim and two thin lines makes everything pop. To me the inside appears curvy, while the side view is more symmetrical. Both are satisfying.
 
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Celtic knots and other symbols/designs can be created if you make precise measurements with the angle cuts of the glue-up blank.
Most of the pen turners do this on a smaller scale, but the cuts and angles need to be dead on to get the knot perfect.
Bob Goulding wrote a basic procedure for woodturning a knot in wood.
This technique is also used to create inlay patterns in bulk and the cut into thin inlay pieces.

 
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I really like that second bowl, it has so much going on. To me I like the first bowl without the lines, but I have no idea how you made that but it's very cool.
 
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Celtic knots and other symbols/designs can be created if you make precise measurements with the angle cuts of the glue-up blank.
Most of the pen turners do this on a smaller scale, but the cuts and angles need to be dead on to get the knot perfect.
Bob Goulding wrote a basic procedure for woodturning a knot in wood.
This technique is also used to create inlay patterns in bulk and the cut into thin inlay pieces.

Perhaps this should be in a separate thread devoted to celtic knots and inlay glue ups. I have done knots and inlay glue ups and would enjoy commenting on that subject but do not feal that we should be diverting LD's thread.
 

odie

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I like the wedge idea but I don't care for the strips.

That's exactly what I was going to say.

There is enough visual keys in the bowl with just the wedges.

With the stripes, the visual is confusing.

-----odie-----
 
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I also dont likes the stripes in the 1st bowl. To me they are distracting and create a very busy look - chaotic.

The 2nd bowl is great. There is symmetry with the even layers and the lines. Excellent grain alignment.
 

odie

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While looking at this side view, I see a single wedge facing in one direction for the top and bottom, but the wedges in the interior are stacked two by two. The overall visual effect of this, is outstanding!

Lennert.....was the way you stacked the wedges have a specific purpose, other than the great look you created with it?

The top dark ring on the rim adds considerably to the aesthetics..... I'd leave that, but I still think the bowl would be much better without the stripes.

1667670996038.png

-----odie-----
 

Randy Anderson

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Great work but would agree with others - the dark stripes detract from the visuals. My mind imagines what it would look like without them so they disrupt the overall eye appeal. I think the dark rim is an outstanding addition.
 
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While looking at this side view, I see a single wedge facing in one direction for the top and bottom, but the wedges in the interior are stacked two by two. The overall visual effect of this, is outstanding!

Lennert.....was the way you stacked the wedges have a specific purpose, other than the great look you created with it?

The top dark ring on the rim adds considerably to the aesthetics..... I'd leave that, but I still think the bowl would be much better without the stripes.

View attachment 47729

-----odie-----
The wedges are just for the aesthetics. Made as bowl from a board from the wedges. The strips were just because I did not have boards wide enough.

1667672599391.png
 
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I agree with many others - My first impression is "wow cool" but as I looked at it a bit longer, those racing stripes detract from the beauty of the design It kind of makes it "too busy" - sort of makes me feel a little cross-eyed trying to take it in overall.... Your second bowl photo (multi stripes) is much easier on the eyes, so that definitely works well. I dunno maybe it is the crossing directions of the stripes against the wedges that makes it harder to look at....

- Rim's nice.

However I can understand the need to make wider and/or longer boards but I'd sooner have suggested something in a less contrasting color (or use pieces of the same wood in each wedge, so the striping was less obvious.) I note one really obvious mis-alignment in the third photo , I'm thinking putting the boards together with like woods might have been better.

Love the design though, I'd wonder how you cut the pieces of wood to make the wedges.
 
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As others have said, not a huge fan of the vertical stripes. I think they detract from the wedge shapes. The difference to my mind is a bird on the wing vs a bird in a cage.
 
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I don't care for the stripes. It flares off a reaction that cross grain construction is a law against nature. Not saying you will have cracking issues, it's just where my brain goes after making furniture for 50 years.
 
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I don't care for the stripes. It flares off a reaction that cross grain construction is a law against nature. Not saying you will have cracking issues, it's just where my brain goes after making furniture for 50 years.
Fibre direction is the same in all parts.
 
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Looks like Michael Mode, who was my original inspiration.
This was in 2014, the reason for this was to use dry wood to turn a larger bowl, started as a Bowl From A Board, and then to do that in a curved shape rather than the usual straight walls, it as with the input of turners to get to that, then the different woods got in there and a cutting tool rather than the usual bandsaw to make the rings.
 
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I think the wedges have a nice effect, in fact, I'm putting it on my list of things to do someday. I'm thinking that the thin lines that go across might look better with just one, and it wedge shaped as well...
 
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It seems that most of you don´t like the stripes. It was not my original idea, but added as the boards were too narrow. However, here is a preliminary correction to visualize how it could have been.

View attachment 47737
Gorgeous! 100 times better than with the stripes. To do something like this has landed on my to-do list to see if I can figure out how to achieve similar effect (unless someone wants to post a cut list how to cut the slices for glue-up?)
 
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This wedge thing got me thinking of ways to cut the wedge in a board 1/2 the width of the desired board and also utilize the material cut off to make the wedge. In auto Cad I laid out 2 1" (25.4mm) X 6" (152.4mm) boards edge to edge for a total of 12" (304.8mm) then drew a line from 1/4" ( 6.35mm) down from the left hand board to up 1/4" on the right side of the right hand board. The results of this cut on 1 board would be two wedges that could be book matched and glued to make a 12 " wide wedge. The wedge would likely need to be surfaced in a drum sander using a wedge shaped platten. The PDF would probably show this much better then my explanation.
 

Attachments

  • wedgelayoutl.pdf
    1.9 KB · Views: 31
Joined
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This was in 2014, the reason for this was to use dry wood to turn a larger bowl, started as a Bowl From A Board, and then to do that in a curved shape rather than the usual straight walls, it as with the input of turners to get to that, then the different woods got in there and a cutting tool rather than the usual bandsaw to make the rings.
I posted a description of how I make bowls from a board 2021 https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/bowls-from-a-board-don´t-have-to-be-conical.17672/
 
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I have a Ringmaster for one of my lathes. There used to be forum for the machine and I saw many a bowl that had wedges. My friend Jim Duxbury makes wedgie bowls a lot. As a matter of fact the last time he visited he brought me a device to cut the wood into wedges on my bandsaw. I like the concept.
 
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I have a Ringmaster for one of my lathes. There used to be forum for the machine and I saw many a bowl that had wedges. My friend Jim Duxbury makes wedgie bowls a lot. As a matter of fact the last time he visited he brought me a device to cut the wood into wedges on my bandsaw. I like the concept.
I always cut my ring freehand, aiming with an adjustable angle https://www.instagram.com/p/CEbZonYDb0T/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link , se also post Bowls from a board don´t have to be conical.
 
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I think what bugs me about the dividing lines is my brain wants to see that walnut circle centered between them. I think that would be exceedingly difficult due to the wedge shaped walnut. Now, If those lines were rotated 90 degrees I think they would have worked for me.
 
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There is a Ringmaster section on The Patriot Woodworker plus there is a group on Facebook. My Ringmaster is in pieces as I sold the 14 inch Jet and they do not rework the RM for 20 inch lathes so have got to work on that . Was going to try metal but another RM aficionado did his with wood so that is the planned direction.
 
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It seems that most of you don´t like the stripes. It was not my original idea, but added as the boards were too narrow. However, here is a preliminary correction to visualize how it could have been.

View attachment 47737
Yup this works, There seems to be some hiccups in what look line joins on/in the wedges? I think that the wedges in one piece would improve the look and improve the spiral effect. But as a first attempt its darn good, will be interested in where this takes you.
 
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Yup this works, There seems to be some hiccups in what look line joins on/in the wedges? I think that the wedges in one piece would improve the look and improve the spiral effect. But as a first attempt its darn good, will be interested in where this takes you.
The picture with no strips had the strips quickly removed in Photoshop, just to give the impression without strips.
 
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Thank you very much for all constructive comments. I think this really shows the advantage of having a forum for C&C.
When I made up the blank I started with three boards of walnut and three maple, so I only have to glue up the wedges, plane and glue together the two layers. No tricky aligning at all, making it very much quicker. I´ll report later.
 
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There is a Ringmaster section on The Patriot Woodworker plus there is a group on Facebook. My Ringmaster is in pieces as I sold the 14 inch Jet and they do not rework the RM for 20 inch lathes so have got to work on that . Was going to try metal but another RM aficionado did his with wood so that is the planned direction.
Jim Duxbury reworked a ringmaster to fit his 20" Powermatic, it can be done.
 
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