Dave,
Most commonly, these days "traditional" grinds are used for finishing the interior of bowls, as well as "push" cuts on the outside. Is that your purpose?
Traditional grinds are ground simply on the platform. Mike Mahoney has a Youtube video where he covers his methods of sharpening. This grind is sharpened starting at 5:50. This youtube video is one chapter from Mike's Bowl Basics DVD. Highly recommend it.
http://www.youtube.com/user/Bowlmaker10#p/a/u/2/4m8-8MNhpvY
Al Stirt, also has a similar grind, and his is on the gouge in question. Here's a picture of the grind. It's the "Finishing" gouge listed on the page.
http://alstirt.com/Pages/ Tools.html
I have a 1/2" "U" Thompson bowl gouge that I've ground to my preference for an interior bowl gouge. One tip for sharpening "U" and "V" profiled gouges. The side walls of the gouges are "straight". The side wall cannot pass the horizontal plane (parallel to the floor). If it does, the side wall of the gouge will be "hollow" ground and that's not preferred. Also there's a lot of steel under the flute of these gouges. By grinding a secondary bevel, like you can easily see in Stirt's, The steel doesn't rub on the bevel's heel and it makes sharpening easier. If all of that steel, the heel will take a fair amount of time to grind, it's a lot steel, and the wings will disappear like nothing. By cutting that back, it helps the cut and also "equals" out the grind time between the nose and sides of the gouge better. If you want the wings to "tilt" back slightly, angle the gouge ever so slightly. If you want them more vertical, keep the gouge straight.
Another DVD just came out. It's by Glenn Lucas and it's available through woodworker's emporium. He covers the sharpening of every traditional tool and it's use. I'd highly recommend it.
http://www.woodworkersemporium.com/browse.cfm/books-and-dvds/2,35.html
Any more questions, feel free to ask.