Show us your tool handles!

[odie]

I'll add big kudos to @odie

Hey, thanks John!

re: The "before and after", and "show us your shop" threads you mentioned. I've been thinking about updating with some new photos of my shop jungle/menagerie. Since I'm one who is continually experimenting and updating the shop and processes......my shop reflects quite a few changes, since I last took some photos.

Sometimes, I'm a great procrastinator......sometimes not. Depends on the inspiration!!!!!

-o-

 

[Bob Vaughan]

While most tool handles I've got are round, there are some specialized tools I often use that are easier to use if the handle profile section is more of an obround. I'll use either a hand router or shaper to get the edges right.



Various obround handles of various sizes.



The business ends that hold various shear scraper blades and tip tool bits. The tool of the largest ones is made from 5/8" x 1" x 18" cold rolled bar stock. Heavy and comfortable. The handle extends under the arm. The obround is parallel with the ground. The shear scrapers have handles in the vertical position making twisting and turning control easier.

 

[Chuck Engstrom]

As far as I'm concerned, the large Sorby wood handles are close to perfection for me as a pattern. I've made steel and aluminum handles, but hate the feel in the winter.

For your metal handles, go to the baseball department at Dick's Sporting Goods and get some bat handle wrap called Lizard Skins. It comes in several thicknesses, I got the thickest at 1.8mm. Much warmer! I covered each end with self-sticking electrical tape just for good measure. Was shocked to discover that baseball mitts now sell for up to $250!!

 

[John Whitley]

And for pretty, here's a multi-axis turned handle for a high end Japanese kitchen knife...

While most tool handles I've got are round, there are some specialized tools I often use that are easier to use if the handle profile section is more of an obround.

I really appreciate these examples of not-round handles. For some applications, it’s nice-to-essential to have the handle not be round. Sometimes it’s just so the tool isn’t continually rolling away from you. (That One Marking Knife, yes I’m lookin’ at you! ). In others, having a fully tactile orientation that your hands can immediately find without looking is just wonderful.

Neil, I’m not yet a beginner at multi-axis work, but have been doing my homework in preparation. It looks like you have varying radii on the faces of your knife handles; is that right? Would you mind sharing briefly how you approach axis layout and mounting on the lathe? At a guess, I’m imagining an approach using multiples turned at the same time, as Barbara Dill describes in her book.

 

[William Rogers]

Here are a few I have made. Some round and some square. I fill them with some lead shot. I make my own aluminum inserts from 1 1/4 aluminum bar and use 5/16 set screws. I’ve probably made 15-20 of these.

 

[Neil S]

Neil... It looks like you have varying radii on the faces of your knife handles; is that right? Would you mind sharing briefly how you approach axis layout and mounting on the lathe? At a guess, I’m imagining an approach using multiples turned at the same time, as Barbara Dill describes in her book.

John

Yes, three different off-centre radii and returned to centre for a final sand to slightly blend where the facets meet.

I do them one at at a time and check as I go along against my template, which of course is just my hand if it's for myself...

Remember to drill the hole for the tang before going off-centre.

So, nothing as complicated as what Barbara Dill does.

 

[Adrian Wilson]

Here's a new one. Nothing too fancy; 'in the style of' vintage E.A Berg Swedish handles. Scaled from photos, in birch. This is my second in tis style. I prefer a cylinder but I do like this shape quite a bit. It will be getting a vintage Sheffield 1" skew from Corsan, Denton, Burdekin &Co. May have started life as a bench chisel, or not; who knows? . The ferrule still needs cleaning up.

 

[Mauricio Kolenc]

All of my tool handles are turned by me and sometimes I make them 3 or 4 times until I feel comfortable. I make ferrules from brass pipe, mount it between centers and mark, then cut and turn the ends true while held in the chuck.
I feel that some woods perform better for certain tools. Normally tend to use special woods for handles as I enjoy them at least 8 hours a day.

 

[John Whitley]

All of my tool handles are turned by me and sometimes I make them 3 or 4 times until I feel comfortable. I make ferrules from brass pipe, mount it between centers and mark, then cut and turn the ends true while held in the chuck.
I feel that some woods perform better for certain tools. Normally tend to use special woods for handles as I enjoy them at least 8 hours a day.

Those handles are all wonderful Mauricio! I really love the detailing on the ferrules and the proud, chamfered ends of the handles above the ferrule.

 

[Adrian Wilson]

Three new tools, so three new handles. My first dip into the under-steel boutique tools, so got into the good woods. I spent some time recently going through all my handles....factory handles, ones I had made.... trying to figure out what I like. I found I prefer a straight cylinder (boring) in the range of 1 1/8" to 1 3/8". Stuart Batty in his catalogue says his handles are 1.3" and that is perfect; that's 1 5/16, so that was my target on two of them, a little smaller on one.

Carter & Son 3/8 spindle gouge, in a padauk handle 1 3/16 x 10". The ferrule is from a pex female sweat adapter, that idea lifted from someone here. Shellac finish. Also, a 1/2" Carter Mike Mahoney 'The Cleaner' bowl gouge, with a Oneway ferrule, in a wenge handle. The wenge was sold to me as bloodwood, but when I opened it up, nope, wenge. Which is fine. Thinned marine varnish finish. I'm not sure about the Oneway ferrule; sound idea, but I don't know if I will do another one.




Also, a Hunter Badger #5 tool. I did a stair job a bunch of years ago; the college wood program I taught in milled some ash from lumber harvested on a property first homesteaded by Highland soldiers who had fought at the siege of Fortress Louisbourg, here in Cape Breton, and still in the family, Then I did the stairs later. I had some left; I knew there was going to be something pretty at the bottom end, but when I turned it I found that it was all pretty curly. Beautiful. Marine wiping varnish again.



After doing my little research project, and discovering my preferred range of diameter, some of my factory handles are WAY bigger than that (thinking big Taylor handles here), and now I can't stand them, so new handles on the list for them.