Winged bowls that size are definitely a challenge. You want to ensure that your setup and skill level is up to par, to avoid any
dramatic incidents.
The idea of using a strobe for this makes my head hurt. Too many things to coordinate.
But I'm very sensitive to flicker on screens, lights etc.
I also use a high intensity light that is very directional, to maximize shadows.
Mount that almost inline with the wing, so that you can see the edge.
That will get you in the ballpark. The rest is just "feel".
Normally I put the tool rest as close as I dare, hand spin the piece a few times to ensure clearance.
Then your tool presentation must be extremely delicate until you feel the tic.
To practice my skills for this, I set up a simple test case. I took a wooden board, of width and length close to the size of the turning. Screwed that onto a faceplate, centred. And than fired it up. Its basically a big propeller.
This is the point where I saw a big whirling blade and thought "why hell am I doing this?!?!"
(this is a great time to bail....
Then I practiced my tool presentation.
Sure you can still screw up. But there's very little mass to the board, if/when things start to fly....
A few logical tips
- Obviously stay out of the line of fire.
- I prefer big, heavy tool handles for this. All the mass at the end really helps steady things.
- small tool tips - I use my 1/2" Thompson gouge
- work SLLLLOOOOOWWW
- higher speed is better - reduces the time between tics
- green wood is much nicer to work with than dried - those tics are much softer. Screwup are more forgiving.
- for larger winged bowls I do NOT turn them twice. They distort too much. I just sand heavily.
This got my skill up to where I managed this one thats 27" across.