That is a beautiful specimen Michael. You did it proud!
Yeah power sanding tends to mess up the chatoyance of highly figured woods as well. Much as in furniture making, using a card scraper or scraper plane yields a much better finish. That is one pretty piece of timber Odie!There was discussion about using coarse grits for power sanding of interior surfaces yesterday. I took this pic of a curly maple bowl last night, just prior to sanding the interior. This is a tooled surface, and you'll see there is absolutely no tearout to deal with directly from the tool! I am currently experimenting with some new negative rake scrapers of my own design, along with a new "task-specific" tool rest to accomplish this......so far, so good! The interior surface is almost, but not quite perfectly flat on the bottom, and the transition to the curved sides up underneath the undercut rim needs some help, too. When I use power sanding on interiors, it does speed things up when I need to true up interior surfaces like this.
For exterior surfaces, everything is different because of that pesky need to have perfect geometry....and, using any power sanding at all is not in the cards!
-o-
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Looks like an opportunity for pewas or lacing.
wondered where you were—bowls, lighthouses, turkeys, candles, platters, bowls—figured it was some sort of project.
don’t you need a flat surface? How do you do a bowl interior or exterior? Are the scrapers malleable?
You can get card scrapers in all shapes and sizes. Pretty easy to make your own from old saw plates as well.
I use T&T Varnish Oil almost exclusively for finishing bowls, and like it a lot. Just recently I used it over a bowl where I had used walnut oil while sanding. I think I didn’t wait long enough for the walnut oil to fully cure (it’s a long time), and my T&T wasn’t fully cured for many weeks. At least this is my theory. Usually I put bowls in a sunny window to cure for a few days, but we’ve had so little sun recently, that hasn’t been possible. So something to consider depending on your finishing method.
Not at all - Card Scraper, Scratch Stock, Bowl Scraper - whatever- will all consist of a piece of steel (typically tool steel, M2 HSS, Carbon Steel, Spring Steel, etc) that has been cut & polished to have a sharp edge (90 degrees or less) and then a Burr (also known as the Hook) is rolled on that edge to create the cutting edge of the tool - So they can be made in any shape imaginable (and on which you can roll or grind a burr) Often a well honed scraper with a quality rolled burr can give a superior finish cut in difficult grain than a keen sharp edge (which often wants to lift out the grain, resulting in tearout) so Scrapers are nothing to sneeze at...
Sold to me as walnut!Looks like Oak to me
Woah! I hope that didn’t sway your decision to buy or pass. If it’s any consolation, I prefer turning Oak over Walnut.
Probably the last time you buy from that seller! That is most certainly not walnut. It is a white oak of some sort. If not already aware, just know that oak must be dried VERY slowly. My description of oak is it cracks if you think about it too much.
welcome to my world.......
good to know. Came dry, allegedly 12%, cuts dry. Seller refunding $10 of the $40. Says it was sold to him as walnut . . . me, I know little, but it does look different from the English walnut I’ve turned. Thanks!
Looks to me like a piece of walnut-stained wood. I'd never buy any blanks whatever from eBay/Amazon/Etsy sellers... and this just reinforces/ adds to my reasoning as to why.
Seller stepped up and making good. Feels really bad. Was sold to him by a logger and he’s upset about it. To me, it’s another lesson.
Nope, robo......No tearout at all......none, zip, zero, nada......
-o-
What’s a rocket box sorry I have no idea
