What brand of ink pen is a viable alternative for basket illusion work?

[David Croxton]

I have been using Faber-Castell Pitt pens exclusively since I began doing basket illusion. I just found out today that Faber-Castel has made the decision to discontinue the Super fine 0.3 nib pen that I use to do all the detail color work. Once they sell out of the existing inventory the ""S" pens will not be available. I once tried using a 0.5 nib pen to do some of the detailing work, but I found it did not work nearly as well for me as the "S" 0.3 nib
So, my questions are:
1) does anyone out there have any experience using a comparable type or brand of Pitt Pen that can be a viable alternative to Faber-Castel?
2) If so, can you recommend a brand that has matching color brush pens and the corresponding 0.3 nib pens? Ideally it would be great if pen clolors and tip types can be bought individually, not in sets.
Thanks!
Dave

 

[Steve Tiedman]

Sorry, I have nothing constructive to offer (not sure what a pit pen is) other than saying that if I were in your position, I'd try to buy as much inventory of your favorite pens as possible.

Does the calligraphy world have a viable option for you?

Wait... I do have something! I have this brand of pen, do they have an option for you? Pigma Micron #005 in this case, comes in a rainbow of colors and different nib sizes, sold however you want to buy them. And looky there, this one I have is .2mm and black archival ink. I buy them at Michael's, Dick Blick sells them, too. Probably Amazon as well. I think this same brand of pen was mentioned in the recent "signing your work" thread. (I should have photographed the pen tip, I'll try to do that later and edit my message.) I've used this to sign my work, but I've also used it to write into marking knife scoring when cutting flat work dovetails when I can't easily see the knife line.






Brand new tip. A gently used version looks almost identical.

 

[Bill Blasic]

I have settled on the Micron 8. After starting with the smallest which the tip would be gone in a few pieces of wood the #8 lasts the longest for me.

 

[David Croxton]

Sorry, I have nothing constructive to offer (not sure what a pit pen is) other than saying that if I were in your position, I'd try to buy as much inventory of your favorite pens as possible.

Does the calligraphy world have a viable option for you?

Wait... I do have something! I have this brand of pen, do they have an option for you? Pigma Micron #005 in this case, comes in a rainbow of colors and different nib sizes, sold however you want to buy them. And looky there, this one I have is .2mm and black archival ink. I buy them at Michael's, Dick Blick sells them, too. Probably Amazon as well. I think this same brand of pen was mentioned in the recent "signing your work" thread. (I should have photographed the pen tip, I'll try to do that later and edit my message.) I've used this to sign my work, but I've also used it to write into marking knife scoring when cutting flat work dovetails when I can't easily see the knife line.
View attachment 59732

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View attachment 59734

Brand new tip. A gently used version looks almost identical.
View attachment 59738

HI Steve, Thanks for the response & photos of the pen! Somewhere along the lines in my web search, I had stumbled across this Micron brand .... I made a note to myself to research it further but hadn't gotten around to it prior to posting here in the forum. I was hoping to gather some quick information & opinions from others who have some long term experience using other brands archival ink pens -- the good, the bad, etc.. Not trying to circumvent doing my own homework on this issue, - but figure it never hurts to seek insight from others!

 

[David Croxton]

I have settled on the Micron 8. After starting with the smallest which the tip would be gone in a few pieces of wood the #8 lasts the longest for me.

HI Bill, thanks for the info! I just ordered a couple of the Micron pens to try ...

 

[Tim Connell]

I use Copic classic pens and replace the fine point with superfine nibs that have been sanded down to a chisel point so they fit down the sides of beads. I started using them after Bill Boehme talked about them in older threads on basket weave designs. Another advantage to the Copic pens is they are refillable.

 

[Curt Fuller]

I can't offer much advice because I only use the faber castelle brush tips and keep them sharp cutting the tip with some fine scissors. But I would caution you to consider the final finish when using any kind of alcohol based pens. I spent some long hours on a hollowform basket done in two halves on the inside and outside. I ran out of black ink (faber castelle) about 2/3 of the way through coloring the outside so I finished it up with a prismacolor pen. I put a satin finish on most of my baskets but when I sprayed this one with deft satin lacquer the prismacolor ink dissolved with the solvents in the lacquer into a mess. A hard lesson. I've since quit using anything but the faber castelle pens and now only use a danish oil for the finish.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

David- I'm happy to help, and glad you've found the next brand to try out. Experimenting on some scrap will quickly verify success or... not.

Curt- I've always been cautious about the same issue, solvents of the finish reacting with the ink, even if just for signature writing instruments. I can safely say the Pigma Micron pens I've used for signatures do not react with Tried & True non-solvent linseed oil finishes. I don't think I've covered them with any other solvent-based wiping varnishes, it's been a good while since I've last used Waterlox or Minwax wiping varnishes, although those did not cause issues applying over other garden variety "roller ball" or gel ink pen ink.

 

[Jim McLain]

I have been using Faber-Castell Pitt pens exclusively since I began doing basket illusion. I just found out today that Faber-Castel has made the decision to discontinue the Super fine 0.3 nib pen that I use to do all the detail color work. Once they sell out of the existing inventory the ""S" pens will not be available. I once tried using a 0.5 nib pen to do some of the detailing work, but I found it did not work nearly as well for me as the "S" 0.3 nib
So, my questions are:
1) does anyone out there have any experience using a comparable type or brand of Pitt Pen that can be a viable alternative to Faber-Castel?
2) If so, can you recommend a brand that has matching color brush pens and the corresponding 0.3 nib pens? Ideally it would be great if pen clolors and tip types can be bought individually, not in sets.
Thanks!
Dave

Dave - One option I use is to cut a bevel on the fine nib with an exacto knife. Fits down between the beads well and give you a little wider inking surface.

 

[David Croxton]

Dave - One option I use is to cut a bevel on the fine nib with an exacto knife. Fits down between the beads well and give you a little wider inking surface.

Hi Jim, Thanks for the suggestion! I can easily give that a try --- I already have a few extras of the fine 0.5 nib pens on hand - I use that tip size to sign my work...

 

[David Croxton]

I use Copic classic pens and replace the fine point with superfine nibs that have been sanded down to a chisel point so they fit down the sides of beads. I started using them after Bill Boehme talked about them in older threads on basket weave designs. Another advantage to the Copic pens is they are refillable.

Hi TIm, thanks for the info!

 

[David Croxton]

I can't offer much advice because I only use the faber castelle brush tips and keep them sharp cutting the tip with some fine scissors. But I would caution you to consider the final finish when using any kind of alcohol based pens. I spent some long hours on a hollowform basket done in two halves on the inside and outside. I ran out of black ink (faber castelle) about 2/3 of the way through coloring the outside so I finished it up with a prismacolor pen. I put a satin finish on most of my baskets but when I sprayed this one with deft satin lacquer the prismacolor ink dissolved with the solvents in the lacquer into a mess. A hard lesson. I've since quit using anything but the faber castelle pens and now only use a danish oil for the finish.

Hi Curt, great advice! I have heard a few "horror stories" from several people that had issues with brands other than Faber-Castel - that is a biggest reason I have used them exclusively from the very beginning for my pieces! Thank you for sharing your experience! If I am successful using Jim Mclain's trick cutting a bevel on a Fine 0.5 nib pen, then that will solve the problem!

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

I use Faber Castell India ink pens. I also buy India ink in a bottle with eye dropper and refill the pens when they need it.

 

[John Snow]

Based on that "signing your work" thread, I did get some Micron archival ink pens of various widths. Work well so far.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I use Copic classic pens and replace the fine point with superfine nibs that have been sanded down to a chisel point so they fit down the sides of beads. I started using them after Bill Boehme talked about them in older threads on basket weave designs. Another advantage to the Copic pens is they are refillable.

Here are some links concerning my experience with Copic markers:

https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/basket-illusion-tool-s.12648/#post-122250​

https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/native-american-basket.12064/​

https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/what-finish-do-you-use-on-a-basket-illusion.14688/#post-145145​