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Or is that an oxymoron?
I'm new at turning but I like my 3/4" Pinnacle . It has a slight radius grind.
Joe
I'm new at turning but I like my 3/4" Pinnacle . It has a slight radius grind.
Joe
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What's Your Favorite Skew Chisel?
- Thread starter blackhorse
- Start date
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
A sharp one. It doesn't matter to me what shape it is. I have skews from 1/16" to 3", oval, flat, and round. I've been using an oval skew for years with a straight edge. It really doesn't matter to me if it's oval or not. I turn equally well with a rectangular shaped skew although I think a rounded bottom is very nice if not necessary. I prefer the straight edge to the curved edge because I like the way I can work with the toe and heel with the straight edge. My most used skew is a 1" oval skew, the second most used is a homemade 3/8" that I made from a 3/8" spade bit. This one is used for all small turnings.
skew
I use two more than any others...
A Hamlet oval-section with a straight grind, and a Henry Taylor round skew which I find a very sympathetic tool in use. Having said that I also use my 3/8 beading and parting tool in "skew mode" more and more...I guess I'm getting lazy and can't be bothered to change tools, and as I can often get the same results with skew and beading tool I just get on and use it.
I have determined to spend far more time on the skew and spindles...my trouble is finding things to turn that require spindle work AND inspire/interest me.
I use two more than any others...
A Hamlet oval-section with a straight grind, and a Henry Taylor round skew which I find a very sympathetic tool in use. Having said that I also use my 3/8 beading and parting tool in "skew mode" more and more...I guess I'm getting lazy and can't be bothered to change tools, and as I can often get the same results with skew and beading tool I just get on and use it.
I have determined to spend far more time on the skew and spindles...my trouble is finding things to turn that require spindle work AND inspire/interest me.
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What Was
The no compromise kind which is ground with a longer bevel on one side only. With grinds on either side, we no longer have to purchase left and right skews, but we do have a blunter design with a back wedge to help us dig in as we start the cut at a higher angle, keep us from turning beads up close to one another , and what is surely the most frustrating, bruise the wood as the heel contacts while we're convex cutting.
The traditional "beading tool" is a great multi-purpose item, with the bevel ground on only one side. It rolls beads, trims endgrain, even planes pretty well when held at a skew angle if you keep it well above center. Looks like a chisel. Of course, you can also do a convex grind to make it like the skewchigouge or Lacer's convex skew grind to give you a bit of grace on grabbing the part extending over the cut.
But if you're going to run chair spindles or such, still tough to beat the tool they used when the turner designed and possibly even made his own, rather than rely on manufacturer's compromises.
The no compromise kind which is ground with a longer bevel on one side only. With grinds on either side, we no longer have to purchase left and right skews, but we do have a blunter design with a back wedge to help us dig in as we start the cut at a higher angle, keep us from turning beads up close to one another , and what is surely the most frustrating, bruise the wood as the heel contacts while we're convex cutting.
The traditional "beading tool" is a great multi-purpose item, with the bevel ground on only one side. It rolls beads, trims endgrain, even planes pretty well when held at a skew angle if you keep it well above center. Looks like a chisel. Of course, you can also do a convex grind to make it like the skewchigouge or Lacer's convex skew grind to give you a bit of grace on grabbing the part extending over the cut.
But if you're going to run chair spindles or such, still tough to beat the tool they used when the turner designed and possibly even made his own, rather than rely on manufacturer's compromises.
As someone who normally turrns spindles , I use my 5/8" rectangular carbide, and a 5/8" oval , because I do restoration usually on either nationally or state regestered properties. My Challenge is to recreate work usually done a minimum of 200 years ago . I can not wait to put my timber bed ( recent find ) together I think I finnally have a bowl capable lathe . I cant wait to try somthing really new for me. I think it may be a hole new learning curve. although I have been reading alot the info and insight here is amazing.
My favorite skew is my 1/2" round, fluted one.
No, wait, that's my bowl gouge. Well guess that clarifies that.
Dietrich
P.S. (Sorby 1" oval)
No, wait, that's my bowl gouge. Well guess that clarifies that.
Dietrich
P.S. (Sorby 1" oval)
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Very funny, Dietrich
I was watching an old Raffan video, and he is amazing with the skew chisel. Even he gets an occasional catch, but I notice that it's no big deal to him. he just views it as a learning experience.
I'm new at this, but I think one's goal should not be to never have a catch.
Joe
I was watching an old Raffan video, and he is amazing with the skew chisel. Even he gets an occasional catch, but I notice that it's no big deal to him. he just views it as a learning experience.
I'm new at this, but I think one's goal should not be to never have a catch.
Joe
Michael,
what do you mean by "longer bevel on one side only"? Can you please post a link to an example of such chisel?
Thanks,
Alex
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MM grand daughter??
Michael-is that your grand daughter-very pretty. What color are her eyes???? I see she is like my cats-enjoys the simple things (box/paper) over the toys!!!
I enjoyed xmas eve and xmas dinner with my first (and only) grand daughter, and such a joy (until she cries!!!). Have a safe and happy New year Michael and all, Gretch
Michael-is that your grand daughter-very pretty. What color are her eyes???? I see she is like my cats-enjoys the simple things (box/paper) over the toys!!!
I enjoyed xmas eve and xmas dinner with my first (and only) grand daughter, and such a joy (until she cries!!!). Have a safe and happy New year Michael and all, Gretch
Donna Banfield
TOTW Team
My favorite skew...
Like John Lucas said, sharp, scary sharp!!
Preferably on a Doug Thomson skew -- any size. If his aren't available, then Crown, but only until Doug's are available again.
Like John Lucas said, sharp, scary sharp!!
Preferably on a Doug Thomson skew -- any size. If his aren't available, then Crown, but only until Doug's are available again.
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Yep, that's her. Lil and I have spent a lot of time together since she was tiny, because dad works regular shifts, mom's a medic, with those 12-hour types. My wife is still working to support retired ol' me, so I get to play! With her mom back in school full time and still working, I get four days with one overnight next semester.
Her eyes are lightest blue, and the box has a pillow, blanket, and I can see one ear of her "huggie" in there as well. The rest of her Christmas was scattered, ignored, all over. At a brand-new two, she's figured out that a protruding lower lip and crying don't work on me that well.
After all, I've been ignoring her grandma's complaints for years ....
Michael, your granddaughter is very beautiful child.
Sorry for off topic.
Sorry for off topic.
It just so happens skews/scrapers were made again that will be ready this next Monday. This will be the last until late spring/summer or until another block of steel is found.
Love CPM 10V. I've made some knives out of it.
Doug, do you heat treat it yourself?
Alex
Doug, do you heat treat it yourself?
Alex
Alex, the heat treatment is very involved with a total of 50 hours in an oven and almost a day being frozen so a company does all that. If you ever make more knifes from CPM 10V contact me and I'll send the steel in with the next batch at no charge.
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Skew
I use a Hamlet flat-section 1-1/4" but I don't think it makes a great deal of difference but I tend to use a large skew for most work.
Robbie
I use a Hamlet flat-section 1-1/4" but I don't think it makes a great deal of difference but I tend to use a large skew for most work.
Robbie
Doug,
thank you very much. I really appreciate your offer.
Alex
thank you very much. I really appreciate your offer.
Alex
Skewing Around
I have and use several skews. Most important as John Lucas said is sharp. They cannot be too sharp. I use everything from a 1/4" round Rosand style up to a 1 1/4" Lacer skew. They all work and cut wood. Smaller for finer work, bigger for heavier work.
My 2 favorites are the Crown 3/4" oval section with a straight edge and the Lacer 1 1/4 " monster that I can rough down to round with, cut nice pommels with, plane like crazy with,etc. I've even converted a cheap Harbor Freight 1" quasi-HSS skew into a Lacer type skew adding a large, long handle and it works very well.
Bottom line is sharp and good technique. The bevel is your control surface to guide the tool and keep it out of a catch. Another must is that the part of the cutting edge actually doing the cutting needs to be directly supported by the tool rest. The unsupported edge is a major cause of catches in any turning tool.
I have and use several skews. Most important as John Lucas said is sharp. They cannot be too sharp. I use everything from a 1/4" round Rosand style up to a 1 1/4" Lacer skew. They all work and cut wood. Smaller for finer work, bigger for heavier work.
My 2 favorites are the Crown 3/4" oval section with a straight edge and the Lacer 1 1/4 " monster that I can rough down to round with, cut nice pommels with, plane like crazy with,etc. I've even converted a cheap Harbor Freight 1" quasi-HSS skew into a Lacer type skew adding a large, long handle and it works very well.
Bottom line is sharp and good technique. The bevel is your control surface to guide the tool and keep it out of a catch. Another must is that the part of the cutting edge actually doing the cutting needs to be directly supported by the tool rest. The unsupported edge is a major cause of catches in any turning tool.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Since I first wrote this I have been using my Thompson skew almost exclusively. It is a really sweet tool. I still use the Oval skew because I've had it so long it's like a good friend. I like the Thompson skew for the very reason I first mentioned. Not only must a tool be sharp it helps if it stays sharp. The Thompson tool does.
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Is there anyone out there who advocates for dull tools? Sort of like Nahm mentioning "a sharp chisel" for a task, as if anyone ever wanted to use a dull one.
Lathe tools need much less of an edge than their carving cousins, or even plane irons, and they don't get any more than required here. I have my diamond 220 held by a magnet to the headstock, and that hones a skew finer than any other tool.
Of course, one of the joys of the straight chisel, skew, roughing gouge or continental pattern gouges is that they have the same length bevel across their edge, making virtually all points equal, and greatly lengthening the time between hones or grinds.
With the skew you have to change toolrest elevation to get higher on the piece if you're going to work toward the point. Otherwise you risk a grab.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I believe it was the Sheriff of Nottingham in the Robin Hood movie that wanted to use a dull spoon to cut out someone's innards.
Aside from sharpness, it's especially important with skews that they slide easily and smoothly along the tool rest. If it isn't smooth, take a file and sandpaper to it and also wax it.
I use mostly Glaser skews which work well for me. I've rounded the edges along the edges of skews that are not rounded. Again, it's important that they ride smoothly and easily along the tool rest.
Malcolm Smith.
I use mostly Glaser skews which work well for me. I've rounded the edges along the edges of skews that are not rounded. Again, it's important that they ride smoothly and easily along the tool rest.
Malcolm Smith.
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Once the bevel has a place to rest on the work I often find myself planing over the top with my fingers underneath the piece. Tool's not even on the rest. Poor man's spindle steady.
As you can see by the roughing segment, the tool's flat to the rest rather than on edge when cutting interrupted. One reason why an oval tool would take some adjustment here.
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I have a 25mm P&N that it just about perfect. I have the next size up that I use for roughing spindels also and a few 3/4" henry taylor. The 25mm is my absolute favorite.
I've been using the 1/2" and 1" Harbor Freight skews. The 1/2" stays remarkably sharp for the longest time but the 1" is a chore to keep sharp. For that reason I'm thinking of picking up the Raffan 3/4".
burt
burt
The Raffan 3/4" was my first skew and is the skew I use the most. I like the slightly curved edge. For tight spaces I use a little 1/4" round skew that I made from a 6" long high speed steel blank. I also have a 1/2" Craftsman skew that I've ground with a curved edge and a lower angle (sharper) bevel — it's nice for facing off endgrain. I have three other skews that get less use, but it's nice to have choices.
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home made 1/4 round skews
As shown by Bob Rosand, you can make a round skew from a $2.25 HSS round tool bit that is 8 inches long. I keep several sharp ones at varying skew angles . i can control this one on any rest, and afford a dozen for the price of a commercial tool. Yes, I will buy the Thompson version. For now, trying one and finding it's sharpness or angle unsatisfactory, just pick up the next one.
A really awesome skew sharpening jig..my new year's resolution for sure. this is the year! I'm going out to the shop to see what i can do on that one.
You would be surprised how small the portion of the tool that is doing the cutting actually is...and i do mostly small projects anyway, but you get good with a certain tool and that is the one you are going to use. I loaned half dozen various conventional skews to a friend over a year ago. They have not been missed. Progress is looking dismal on learning to use those better anytime soon.
Keith Rowley's book had me absolutely convinced i needed nothing but a Robert Sorby 3/4 oval skew. Never mastered that one, Keith. Maybe i should sign off as "Gullible self-taught loner on a pig farm in a wheat field in Northern Oklahoma"
Kinda funny about that sharpness observation. Ever see a magazine at the Wal-Mart checkout full of tips on how to put on a few extra pounds? Try asking for this when they ask you if you found everything you need...geeze, no, I'm stupid, so I came to the checkout before I found the 220 grit sandpaper, could you fetch me a few packs?
As shown by Bob Rosand, you can make a round skew from a $2.25 HSS round tool bit that is 8 inches long. I keep several sharp ones at varying skew angles . i can control this one on any rest, and afford a dozen for the price of a commercial tool. Yes, I will buy the Thompson version. For now, trying one and finding it's sharpness or angle unsatisfactory, just pick up the next one.
A really awesome skew sharpening jig..my new year's resolution for sure. this is the year! I'm going out to the shop to see what i can do on that one.
You would be surprised how small the portion of the tool that is doing the cutting actually is...and i do mostly small projects anyway, but you get good with a certain tool and that is the one you are going to use. I loaned half dozen various conventional skews to a friend over a year ago. They have not been missed. Progress is looking dismal on learning to use those better anytime soon.
Keith Rowley's book had me absolutely convinced i needed nothing but a Robert Sorby 3/4 oval skew. Never mastered that one, Keith. Maybe i should sign off as "Gullible self-taught loner on a pig farm in a wheat field in Northern Oklahoma"
Kinda funny about that sharpness observation. Ever see a magazine at the Wal-Mart checkout full of tips on how to put on a few extra pounds? Try asking for this when they ask you if you found everything you need...geeze, no, I'm stupid, so I came to the checkout before I found the 220 grit sandpaper, could you fetch me a few packs?