The short time I have been a member of this forum I have learned when one posts ideas and methods used, there are many, many interesting responses. Most are very informative and I have learned so much from everyone. Some were neutral with pros and cons associated to the subject, which to me is also great information. Then, of course are those that almost feel like the poster is just a negative person in life...much like standing with a group of men discussing anything.
That said, I just installed the bearings on the motor for my 3520B and found a really simple way to do it, for those that want to do it themselves that do not own a press nor want to take it to a machine shop. I'm no expert but have installed many bearings on saws, grinders, motors, some of my early cars and trucks, trailers and even motorcycles around the house and never had a failure yet (knock on a bowl).
Before suggesting this being put on the Mustard Monster Site, I feel a discussion would be healthy and wise...
It appears two common methods and I'm sure there are more of installing interfering fit bearings on a shaft are using a hydraulic press which is the best in my opinion. The second appears to be using a bearing drift to tap the bearing to seat it. Please look at the picture carefully and you will see I used pieces of wood against the base of my vise to rest the motor shaft against so there is not much shock to the motor shaft components and no damage to the end of the shaft. This worked for both bearings. I used a chrome plated brass 1 1/4" x 12" sink drain extension on one end and an 11/16" long barreled socket on the other end, then used a rubber mallet to gently seat the bearings in position. Though they are interference fit, any little tap moved the bearings and I'm very confident there was no damage. I've included a picture of the end of the plumbing piece that was against the bearing to show the brass shows no damage whatsoever, I truely believe I could have used a pvc extention without damaging it much but had the brass one on hand. I did not have to tap the socket any harder than the plumping fitting to gently seat the smaller bearing, the only thing I would have done differently would be to use a 3/4" socket because once the bearing seated I had to pull the socket off the small part of the bearing land sticking out past the bearing. I only needed a gentle pull to remove it and there was no marking on the shaft but using a 3/4" would give better clearance. I've included a picture of the land sticking out past the bearing to show absolutely no marking.
If the consensus of the group that this method should not be used or the information is not useful, it will matter little to me, no hard feelings, truly do not want to give bad advise. I actually hesitated to post this for those reasons. If this is useful, it would be better if someone more skilled in writing than I put this into a better constructive format more suited to an information site
Would like to try to repay all of the absolutely money and time saving information you all have freely given me in such a short time. Thanks again for that.
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That said, I just installed the bearings on the motor for my 3520B and found a really simple way to do it, for those that want to do it themselves that do not own a press nor want to take it to a machine shop. I'm no expert but have installed many bearings on saws, grinders, motors, some of my early cars and trucks, trailers and even motorcycles around the house and never had a failure yet (knock on a bowl).
Before suggesting this being put on the Mustard Monster Site, I feel a discussion would be healthy and wise...
It appears two common methods and I'm sure there are more of installing interfering fit bearings on a shaft are using a hydraulic press which is the best in my opinion. The second appears to be using a bearing drift to tap the bearing to seat it. Please look at the picture carefully and you will see I used pieces of wood against the base of my vise to rest the motor shaft against so there is not much shock to the motor shaft components and no damage to the end of the shaft. This worked for both bearings. I used a chrome plated brass 1 1/4" x 12" sink drain extension on one end and an 11/16" long barreled socket on the other end, then used a rubber mallet to gently seat the bearings in position. Though they are interference fit, any little tap moved the bearings and I'm very confident there was no damage. I've included a picture of the end of the plumbing piece that was against the bearing to show the brass shows no damage whatsoever, I truely believe I could have used a pvc extention without damaging it much but had the brass one on hand. I did not have to tap the socket any harder than the plumping fitting to gently seat the smaller bearing, the only thing I would have done differently would be to use a 3/4" socket because once the bearing seated I had to pull the socket off the small part of the bearing land sticking out past the bearing. I only needed a gentle pull to remove it and there was no marking on the shaft but using a 3/4" would give better clearance. I've included a picture of the land sticking out past the bearing to show absolutely no marking.
If the consensus of the group that this method should not be used or the information is not useful, it will matter little to me, no hard feelings, truly do not want to give bad advise. I actually hesitated to post this for those reasons. If this is useful, it would be better if someone more skilled in writing than I put this into a better constructive format more suited to an information site
Would like to try to repay all of the absolutely money and time saving information you all have freely given me in such a short time. Thanks again for that.
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