1/2 spindle detail gouge

[Tom Gibbons]

I bought a 1/2 detail spindle gouge from turners edge. being a beginner I thought I was doing something wrong I can’t get it to cut I have to force it to make a dovetail I was at my turning group today and ask about it and 2 other people said they have set them aside and don’t use them for the same reason has anyone ran into this and found a reason or cure for this problem I have run into
And I am in no way putting down this tool or brand just looking for help to make it work as it was over $100

 

[Brian Gustin]

I might suggest a manual dry test - it is all about how you present the tool to the piece. Chuck up a nice round spindle and then with lathe off, lay gouge so bevel is laying flat on the wood , and then roll spindle by hand while bringing your edge into the wood , soon as it starts to cut a little bit, stop there and look at how the gouge lays on tool rest and where it is cutting at - Getting them to cut a neat dovetail (I use a 3/8 detail for that) you may find your tool is being held level (as in like a scraper may be) at center line of the blank with the flute pretty much facing you (about 9:30 to 10:00 position) and the handle sticking out to what might almost feel parallel to the tailstock.. Once you can get it to cut and figure out how to hold and present the tool, you can practice a bit with rotating gouge to get a cut along a different edge.. with my relatively acute grind (35 degrees-ish and way swept back wings) I find it quite difficult to actually turn a bead & cove stick like you would with a regular spindle gouge - It is more suited to finer details (Small beads, narrow coves or grooves, dovetail tenons for bowls, etc) so it is not used all that often.. but it does need to be really sharp (like a skew)

 

[William Rogers]

I have a 1/2” detail gouge also. It is not that I can’t cut with it, but I almost never use it. I just don’t think it is a necessary tool. My 3/8” detail gouges seem to do everything when a detail gouge is needed. I’m going to flatten the tip out and grind it similar to my spindle gouges.

 

[hockenbery]

I use a 3/8 spindle gouge to turn dovetails for tenons. A detail gouge with a 30-35 degree bevel should do the job too.
I use a 1/2” detail gouge to turn beads on bowls and hollow forms.

Check sharpening need a convex edge - no dips. Concentrate on the basics!

Detail gouges work like spindle gouges.
Sharpen it with a fingernail grind

ABC- Anchor Bevel Cut
A- tool on tool rest
B- bevel on the wood not cutting

C- raise the handle and roll the tool to begin cutting

It will work like this.

 

[hockenbery]

Cutting a dovetail with a 3/8 spindle gouge
The ABC is still used but it is done in a continuous motion.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Properly sharpened and presented to the wood it will cut. As mentioned, ABC will get you there. Plenty of practice with cove and bead sticks…. I use a 1/2” spindle gouge (35 deg bevel) for tenons for cross grain work.

Is it actually a detail gouge? There is a difference between a spindle and actual detail gouge (depth of flute grind into the bar), tho it doesnt really make a difference to whether it cuts, but more in fitting it into tight areas and how much extension of the rest the tool can handle

 

[Michael Anderson]

Personally, I find a 1/2” spindle detail gouge to be one of my favorites. Like Al said above, it’s my go to for beads and details on hollowforms, bowls, spindles, etc… Though not quite as versatile as a bow gouge, I find that it does just about everything I need it to (aside from hollowing face grain bowls). I also have a 3/8, but I find myself using the 1/2” more often, except for on smaller pieces.

There is a ton of great advice here. One thing that’s missing is that you might try adjusting your tool rest height a bit. I’m assuming you have more experience with carbide and/or bowl gouges. I find that with detail gouges I get the best performance if I raise my tool rest a bit, about the same height as if I am using a skew. Just my two cents.

 

[robo hippy]

If I am making the dove tail angle for my recess, if I use a spindle detail, well, any detail type of gouge, I have it rolled all the way over on the side, so flutes horizontal. I am not competent with the skew, so when I do beads and coves on a spindle, I use a detail gouge. You don't start the cut with the point. You start it with the wing and roll it on the side till it starts to cut. To get to the very bottom of a V groove, then you have to roll it all the way onto the side.

robo hippy

 

[Dean Center]

A picture, or several, of your gouge would be very useful in helping you.

 

[Lance Mirrer]

Start at the beginning. Is it 1/2" diameter or 1/2" flute? This difference is the European or American methods of measurement. A 1/2" Sorby is not the same size as a 1/2" Thompson. Note either one should do what you are asking of it,

That said, when any tool doesn't cut, it is either the sharpened edge or user error (or inexperience). Your 2 club members who "put it aside" are not the ones to go to, since they don't know either. Find a club member who knows how to use it and solicit their advice.
And follow the many excellent suggestions above.

Good luck getting started. May this be the hardest question you'll have to overcome, but know there will be many more.

 

[Tom Gibbons]

Thanks everyone