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1x8 Chucks on 1 1/4 x 8 Headstock Spindles

Joined
Feb 25, 2025
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Location
New Boston, NH
I have a number of 1 x 8 direct threat chucks (all Nova G3 - each hosting a variety of jaws) for my Laguna 12/16. Going to a larger lathe (PM3520C for example), the headstock spindles are all 1 1/4 x 8.

What is everyone's experience using the 1 1/4 x 8 to 1 x 8 adapters to use the 1 x 8 chucks on 1 1/4 x 8 spindles? Do the 1 x 8 chucks with the adapter still seat properly on the headstock spindle? Do you end up getting excessive vibrations?

Or, do I need to plan to purchase new 1 1/4 x 8 chucks?

Pros/cons please.
 
I have a number of 1 x 8 direct threat chucks (all Nova G3 - each hosting a variety of jaws) for my Laguna 12/16. Going to a larger lathe (PM3520C for example), the headstock spindles are all 1 1/4 x 8.

What is everyone's experience using the 1 1/4 x 8 to 1 x 8 adapters to use the 1 x 8 chucks on 1 1/4 x 8 spindles? Do the 1 x 8 chucks with the adapter still seat properly on the headstock spindle? Do you end up getting excessive vibrations?

Or, do I need to plan to purchase new 1 1/4 x 8 chucks?

Pros/cons please.
First I'd be checking the chucks to see if they are an insert type or direct thread - If they have inserts (you'll see hex flats for a wrench on the insert collar) then you can just get replacement 1 1/4 x8 inserts - but if direct thread, I'd probably get a single 1 1/4 x8 to 1X8 adapter to thread on to the spindle and use the old direct thread chucks until such time as I replaced them with insert type chucks. (and then sell on the old chucks). Bear in mind there's not a whole lot really WRONG with using an adapter, it just means you'll be introducing a certain amount of runout (could be microscopic, but it'd be there) where you didn't necessarily have to.... Direct thread chucks do have their advantages in theory (aforementioned runout) but I'd tend to want to get insert type chucks - who knows you might switch chuck brands later on, and insert type chucks are a lot easier to sell on over direct thread chucks.... but to each their own - nothing wrong with keeping your chucks and adapting them, but my own opinion (worth the paper it's written on) would be to get the right chucks for the lathe (insofar as thread sizes) and I'd vote getting insert type chucks
 
With Nova chucks, I believe you can use their jaws on most of their chucks, as long as the chuck and jaws are of the same type, so I think you are likely to be able to buy a new chuck without buying new jaws. Nova's site should address whether chucks are compatible with the jaws you already have.
When I sold my Nova midi lathe, which used 1" X 8 chucks, I kept 1 chuck I had and sold 1 with the lathe. People buying a lathe will want at least 1 chuck with it, especially if they are in the beginner category and have limited turning knowledge.

I have used adapters with Nova chucks because some were only sold with non-compatible threads. No big deal except, to avoid having to change the adapter out I ad to buy multiple adapters. It's easier to buy chucks which match your current lathe.

You might want to use this opportunity to move to a different brand of chuck. I have always believed that VicMarc chucks are superior to Nova chucks, so buying a size chuck and jaws you commonly use, maybe a larger one than the Nova G3, may move you in different direction for the future.

In the end, though, I don't think there is any reason you can't keep the Nova chucks and jaws you have, buying an adapter for each chuck. Certainly adapters are less expensive than new chucks. Or try it with one of the chucks and see what your experience is.

Don't know if this helps. From going through the same thing when I upgraded, I think it's more personal choice than a necessity. There is nothing wrong with Nova chucks. I just think that there are other brands which are better quality. Again, though, that is really more personal preference than an opinion based on true factual information.
 
...
You might want to use this opportunity to move to a different brand of chuck. I have always believed that VicMarc chucks are superior to Nova chucks, so buying a size chuck and jaws you commonly use, maybe a larger one than the Nova G3, may move you in different direction for the future.
...
This was actually my long-term plan. I will be replacing all (or at least most) of my current Nova G3 chucks with VicMarc chucks. Just don't have the up front funds to do that all at one time. So, I was thinking of a single adapter and running the 1 x 8 Nova chucks until I can replace them. Maybe only go to VicMarc for the larger jaw sizes and keep the Nova G3s for the smaller jaw sizes. Also, might look at the other Nova chucks since the jaws are interchangeable (in addition to moving to VicMarc). So many choices!
 
So, I was thinking of a single adapter and running the 1 x 8 Nova chucks until I can replace them. Maybe only go to VicMarc for the larger jaw sizes and keep the Nova G3s for the smaller jaw sizes. Also, might look at the other Nova chucks since the jaws are interchangeable
I use one small chuck (2-3/4” I think) with an adapter, as no one makes a small chuck with 1-1/4” threads. Don’t recommend using an adapter long term on a medium chuck like a g3. A good size project can be turned with that size chuck and you dont want to add ~ 3” of extension to the chuck. Replace the 1x8 with a 1-1/4x8 g3. Both g3’s I have are insert type, runout is not an issue.

Getting a larger chuck is a good idea. I use a Oneway Stronghold with their patented profiled tower jaws, love those jaws.
 
I would get an adapter and use them until you can afford the VicMarc you want. I wouldn't sell all them either, you will find the adapter moves the chuck about 3" from the lathe headstock and this is nice for sanding and certain projects. My experience is the adapter is fine if you buy from a quality vendor, but the further from the spindle you get you can get vibration on larger pieces.
 
There are a couple of potential issues. First off, adapters move the workpiece further away from the head stock bearings than the manufacturer of the lathe intended. The second is that you are introducing another manufacturing tolerance into the equation. The chuck may run perfectly true, or it may not. Luck of the draw. Personally I always avoid adapters, and don’t like threaded inserts either. I had an insert chuck once and it didn’t run true. Since then I’ve always bought direct threaded chucks and not had a problem, so far.
 
This was actually my long-term plan. I will be replacing all (or at least most) of my current Nova G3 chucks with VicMarc chucks. Just don't have the up front funds to do that all at one time. So, I was thinking of a single adapter and running the 1 x 8 Nova chucks until I can replace them. Maybe only go to VicMarc for the larger jaw sizes and keep the Nova G3s for the smaller jaw sizes. Also, might look at the other Nova chucks since the jaws are interchangeable (in addition to moving to VicMarc). So many choices!
Joel,

Sure, I figured you didn't want to sink a lot into new chucks, especially since you might want to determine what your future needs are before doing that. I just got tired of unmounting and remounting the adapter, so I finally just bought other chucks. I was always sorry, though, that I didn't switch to Vicmarc, but the Nova chucks are certainly very serviceable and they work well. I have bigger chucks and jaws also, but I found out that I really don't turn large enough pieces to justify the size chucks and jaws I bought. Who knew? I find it more enjoyable to turn 8"- 10" or smaller pieces, especially hollow forms.

Just read the response before mine. The issues raised, distance from the head stock didn't seem to be an issue. As for tolerances, Nova manufactures their own adapters in various sizes and threads. Nova's adapters are very usable and I still have one of my chucks mounted on an adapter.
 
This was actually my long-term plan. I will be replacing all (or at least most) of my current Nova G3 chucks with VicMarc chucks. Maybe only go to VicMarc for the larger jaw sizes and keep the Nova G3s for the smaller jaw sizes.
Couple unrelated thoughts on your plan. If your Nova chucks are the older/original style G3s, with Lefty Tighty, you might go crazy having 2 types of chucks with opposite turns to open/close. In addition, the bird beak Nova jaws will need a slightly differently shaped tenon than the Vicmarc. Neither issue is insurmountable, but they might be a source of aggravation.
 
I have one adapter which is a little off so I placed a piece of tape on the shoulder and it was a perfect shim. If you use a reliable brand adapter it should work well. Also find the shortest ones you can, longer may cause more vibration.
 
I have a number of 1 x 8 direct threat chucks (all Nova G3 - each hosting a variety of jaws) for my Laguna 12/16. Going to a larger lathe (PM3520C for example), the headstock spindles are all 1 1/4 x 8.

What is everyone's experience using the 1 1/4 x 8 to 1 x 8 adapters to use the 1 x 8 chucks on 1 1/4 x 8 spindles? Do the 1 x 8 chucks with the adapter still seat properly on the headstock spindle? Do you end up getting excessive vibrations?

Or, do I need to plan to purchase new 1 1/4 x 8 chucks?

Pros/cons please.

When I run 1x8 chucks on my 1-1/4x8 lathe, I usually use an 2MT x 1x8 adapter from Best Wood Tools:

1740754315022.png

This runs *much* truer than any screw-on adapter I've tried. There are 2 downsides:
  • it doesn't work with vacuum chucks
  • it needs to be secured with a drawbar
Note that you need the all-steel 1-piece adapter. BWT makes a cheaper version with a steel taper and aluminum head, but that model is only for reversing chucks in the tailstock and can't be used in the headstock under power,
 
When I run 1x8 chucks on my 1-1/4x8 lathe, I usually use an 2MT x 1x8 adapter from Best Wood Tools:

View attachment 72934

This runs *much* truer than any screw-on adapter I've tried. There are 2 downsides:
  • it doesn't work with vacuum chucks
  • it needs to be secured with a drawbar
Note that you need the all-steel 1-piece adapter. BWT makes a cheaper version with a steel taper and aluminum head, but that model is only for reversing chucks in the tailstock and can't be used in the headstock under power,

I like this approach as well. Thanks for sharing.
 
I also bought an M33 X 3.5mm Faceplate on to which I machined a register and drilled three holes. This adapter allows me to fit any of my MW chucks to my wood turning lathe.
 
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I have two lathes one at 1-8 and 1 1/4-8 so I have a number of 1-8 chucks which I use with both lathes with adapters, have not had problems at all with adapters. In fact I have way too many chucks (2-Oneway chucks, 2-record chucks, 3-nova chucks and 1 VicMarc.) How do I stop the obsession?
 
My first chuck was a 1'x8tpi direct thread, low budget chuck from Penn State Industries. I still use occasionally since it has Cole jaws. I bought an adaptor from Penn State and it works fine on my 1 1/4x8 tpi lathe.

Here's a link to their adaptor, about $22. https://www.pennstateind.com/store/LA11418.html

I bought my adaptor more than 10 years ago. Hopefully their quality is even better now, but who knows? Not me. Good luck.
 
I tried one of the adapters, and noticed a lot more run out in the chuck as well as vibration issues caused by cantilevering out farther off of the headstock. Most chucks have inserts so you can change the insert to fit on different lathes. I do keep one 1 by 8 tpi chuck for my mini lathe. I have changed all the rest of them out to fit my bigger lathes.

robo hippy
 
When I run 1x8 chucks on my 1-1/4x8 lathe, I usually use an 2MT x 1x8 adapter from Best Wood Tools:

That's a great idea. I've bought quite a bit from Best Wood Tools and I've never been sorry - very high quality machining. (The only thing might be the need to be patient for something not in stock since Vic does all the machining himself.)

If someone doesn't want to mess with a drawbar (or wants the through-hole), he also carries threaded adapters for any spindle thread to 1x8 and I expect it is well made also - I recently bought a 1-1/4x8 extension from him and adds no detectable runout to the chuck.

If needed, a drawbar is quite simple, cheap, and quick to make (and also useful for mandrels, Jacobs drill chucks, etc)

I like the idea of a 1-1/4x8 adapter for the metal lathe too.

JKJ
 
This was actually my long-term plan. I will be replacing all (or at least most) of my current Nova G3 chucks with VicMarc chucks. Just don't have the up front funds to do that all at one time. So, I was thinking of a single adapter and running the 1 x 8 Nova chucks until I can replace them. Maybe only go to VicMarc for the larger jaw sizes and keep the Nova G3s for the smaller jaw sizes. Also, might look at the other Nova chucks since the jaws are interchangeable (in addition to moving to VicMarc). So many choices!
Nova chucks "no bueno"?
 
Nova chucks "no bueno"?

I find the Nova G3 chucks fine. I have maybe 8. The issue is they are all direct thread 1”x8 threads. Moving to a larger lathe with 1 1/4” x 8 thread, the direct thread Novas will need an adapter. This then puts the work piece further away from the spindle. It should be ok for smaller pieces but going larger, I will want to eliminate the adapter and go with the 1 1/4” threaded chuck.
 
I find the Nova G3 chucks fine. I have maybe 8. The issue is they are all direct thread 1”x8 threads. Moving to a larger lathe with 1 1/4” x 8 thread, the direct thread Novas will need an adapter. This then puts the work piece further away from the spindle. It should be ok for smaller pieces but going larger, I will want to eliminate the adapter and go with the 1 1/4” threaded chuck.
Owning a few different adapters myself, so I can use my G3 chucks on my big lathe, I can only say I'm not a huge fan. Vibration is the biggest issue, those adapters (not inserts) do move the chuck farther away and it does lead to increased vibration.

You also just run into the luck of the draw with those adapters. Some are fine, occasionally one just won't be. I have one (which I really need to toss) that imparts a very slight angle to the chuck. For longer blanks, it becomes a huge problem.

I have a Record Power SC4 insert chuck. Its very nice, and thus far the insert (1 1/4") that came with it, has been fine. That said, when I was considering getting a 1" insert, I noticed that there is only ONE set screw that holds the insert in place. My concern there, is that is a single point of failure as well as a potential point that could cause the chuck not to run true.

I seem to be an outlier here, but, I've never really liked my G3 chucks. I have two of them, and they just seem to always have problems. I've had to clean them repeatedly, one of the slides on one seems rather loose which occasionally presents a problem. So I have been meaning to sell them, probably along with all the jaws, and switch to a different brand. Earlier in the year I had a lot of people recommending Axminster chucks, the GK series of which has swappable backplates (which I guess are less prone to runout issues than classic inserts).

I do hate changing jaws though, where you have to unscrew eight screws and screw eight screws back in every time. So I am not 100% sold on the Axminster's yet. I've been looking at the EWT EasyChuck with its quick release jaws as well.
 
I have never needed to use an adapter but if I were to I would get it from Best Wood Tools and you can be sure the chuck would run true. There is nothing like a Master Machinist doing the work.
 
Like @Dave Bunge I also bought my adapter from 10+ years ago from Penn State. I use it on my Beall buffing extension and the one chuck with Cole jaws. it runs very true and no vibration issues. The increase in vibration from the work being extended is if the adapter does not sit square against the spindle face or the threads are not true the vibration will increase the farther the work is extended. If I were to buy an adapter today I would buy from Best Woods Tools. All of his products are exceptional quality. Not sure how many G3 chucks you have, but I would only keep one and move on to a higher quality chuck like Axminster, OneWay, or Vicmarc with direct thread. Any of these chucks will perform very well.
 
I have a number of 1 x 8 direct threat chucks (all Nova G3 - each hosting a variety of jaws) for my Laguna 12/16. Going to a larger lathe (PM3520C for example), the headstock spindles are all 1 1/4 x 8.

What is everyone's experience using the 1 1/4 x 8 to 1 x 8 adapters to use the 1 x 8 chucks on 1 1/4 x 8 spindles? Do the 1 x 8 chucks with the adapter still seat properly on the headstock spindle? Do you end up getting excessive vibrations?

Or, do I need to plan to purchase new 1 1/4 x 8 chucks?

Pros/cons please.
I just upgraded to a new lathe with a 1 1/4” spindle and installed new inserts in my Nova chucks this morning. Thought I’d include some details in case they’re helpful.

1- Teknatool is apparently ceasing all business operations in the US so I had a little difficulty tracking down the inserts. Rockler and Woodcraft both sold out. Ordered one from Amazon that never arrived so got a refund. Ended up ordering 2 directly from Teknatool’s website and they arrived very quickly. Spoke to the Rockler store manager and he said they are replacing all of their Nova chucks and accessories with Rikon and that the inserts and jaws are all supposedly interchangeable. Decided I’d rather get the Nova inserts just to be safe.
2- I have two G3’s and one Supernova2, all purchased used. One of the G3’s is a direct thread 1x8 that won’t take an insert. The inserts perfectly fit the other two chucks. Though they stick out from the chuck body a little more, maybe 1/4” or so, than the old inserts.
3- There is a grub/set screw that secures the insert into the chuck body. This is different from the one that also secures the chuck to the lathe spindle. Make sure you back out the screw before removing the old inserts. Mine were both missing the screws so I ended up replacing them at the same time. They don’t come with the new inserts. I had some size M6*8 screws that fit and used a 3mm Allen wrench to tighten.
4- The inserts were in very tight and it’s difficult to get a sold grip on the chuck and put enough torque on the wrench to get the insert out. I ended up putting a beater screwdriver in the same hole in the chuck body that you use to access the set/grub screw and held that while turning the wrench on the insert to get it out. It’s a standard RH thread (lefty loosey).
5- I put a little 3-in-1 oil on the new inserts before installing in case they ever need to come out again. Figure the new set screws should still keep them in fine during use.

Sorry for the long post and potentially excessive and obvious details, but hopefully this might be useful to you or others.
 
I had a little difficulty tracking down the inserts.

I recently bought two new 1/4x8 inserts through Amazon.

Before that I an insert from Buffalo Woodturning, listed as in stock.
It came in good condition at a reasonable price but took 15 days to arrive:
Ordered on Sept 7
Paypal transaction was Sept 8
Shipped on Sept 17
Delivered on Sept 22
Ok if not in a hurry, I guess. Maybe they were having some problems, don't know. I saw no communication from them indicating a a stocking problem or a delay.
If ordering from Buffalo maybe call first to confirm stock and expected delivery time : Joe@buffalowoodturningproducts.com

When inserts became available on Amazon again i ordered a couple of spares for just in case. As a shipping comparison, I ordered two inserts on Oct 31 and they were delivered Nov 2 - 2 days to arrive.

I also bought several new SN2 chucks from Amazon to replenish my chuck drawers. I'm now back to over 20 chucks. Can't have too many chucks (depending on how you work.) I don't change jaws.

I use the set screw to hold the insert to the chuck but NEVER use the set screw to hold the insert to the lathe spindle. Not needed for the way I mount chucks and work. All chucks I've every purchased came with both set screws and two allen wrenches. The inserts came with no set screws. BTW, I never use the allen wrenches - prefer T-handle allen wrenches.

I lock the chuck to the lathe spindle with my "callibrated" wrist flick.
I always remove the chuck from the lathe spindle with a Nova chuck wrench, bumped with my hand. NEVER by striking a chuck key (I think that's asking for trouble.)

I don't buy direct-threaded chucks after the first one - I have my reasons.

Here is something I've discovered about Nova inserts. They were all easy to insert and remove BUT I was unhappy with the precision. I always clean off any burrs on the threads, install the insert, then check the runout with a dial indicator (I used these in SN2 chucks). MOST of the chuck/insert combination are not as precise as they could be. Inserted out of the little box, I usually see a runout of 0.002 or 0.003". One was even much worse. They can do better than that.

Not counting the threads on the insert or in the chuck, there are two places on the insert that can introduce error - 1) on the surface that mates with the flat on the chuck spindle, and 2) on the end of the threads that are inserted into the chuck. I've put some inserts on a surface plate and checked with a Starrett height gauge with a dial test indicator to measure the extent of any imprecision - can't get much more precise than that in a home machine shop.

However, I haven't found any imprecision yet Ii couldn't easily fix. I first mount the insert on the lathe spindle backwards and dress the flat on the end that will eventually seat against the lathe spindle. For this I use a small carbide cutting tool held firmly flat on a box rest and held by hand - the one I use is mounted in a tool holder from my metal lathe, but a hand held straight or pointed carbide bit of any type should work. Sandpaper on a sanding stick or a good file held firmly will also work.

After the mating end is flat, I reverse the insert to expose the end that seats in the chuck. This end is often the problem. Again, I dress that end with a carbide cutting bit until it's perfectly flat, then smooth with a file and/or sanding sticks. Debur that if needed, clean, and insert into the chuck.

After adjustment, the runout on all of my "sloppy" SN2 chucks has gone from 0.003 down to 0.0005. This is more precision than needed for woodturning but at least I know I need to blame any problems on me instead of the chuck!

All this makes me think that the inserts are not being made to as precise standards as possible, BUT they can easily be tuned if I want more precision. Also, in discussing this with others, some feel that the unmodified runout of 0.003 is fine for a woodturning chuck.

JKJ
 
I recently bought two new 1/4x8 inserts through Amazon.

Before that I an insert from Buffalo Woodturning, listed as in stock.
It came in good condition at a reasonable price but took 15 days to arrive:
Ordered on Sept 7
Paypal transaction was Sept 8
Shipped on Sept 17
Delivered on Sept 22
Ok if not in a hurry, I guess. Maybe they were having some problems, don't know. I saw no communication from them indicating a a stocking problem or a delay.
If ordering from Buffalo maybe call first to confirm stock and expected delivery time : Joe@buffalowoodturningproducts.com

When inserts became available on Amazon again i ordered a couple of spares for just in case. As a shipping comparison, I ordered two inserts on Oct 31 and they were delivered Nov 2 - 2 days to arrive.

I also bought several new SN2 chucks from Amazon to replenish my chuck drawers. I'm now back to over 20 chucks. Can't have too many chucks (depending on how you work.) I don't change jaws.

I use the set screw to hold the insert to the chuck but NEVER use the set screw to hold the insert to the lathe spindle. Not needed for the way I mount chucks and work. All chucks I've every purchased came with both set screws and two allen wrenches. The inserts came with no set screws. BTW, I never use the allen wrenches - prefer T-handle allen wrenches.

I lock the chuck to the lathe spindle with my "callibrated" wrist flick.
I always remove the chuck from the lathe spindle with a Nova chuck wrench, bumped with my hand. NEVER by striking a chuck key (I think that's asking for trouble.)

I don't buy direct-threaded chucks after the first one - I have my reasons.

Here is something I've discovered about Nova inserts. They were all easy to insert and remove BUT I was unhappy with the precision. I always clean off any burrs on the threads, install the insert, then check the runout with a dial indicator (I used these in SN2 chucks). MOST of the chuck/insert combination are not as precise as they could be. Inserted out of the little box, I usually see a runout of 0.002 or 0.003". One was even much worse. They can do better than that.

Not counting the threads on the insert or in the chuck, there are two places on the insert that can introduce error - 1) on the surface that mates with the flat on the chuck spindle, and 2) on the end of the threads that are inserted into the chuck. I've put some inserts on a surface plate and checked with a Starrett height gauge with a dial test indicator to measure the extent of any imprecision - can't get much more precise than that in a home machine shop.

However, I haven't found any imprecision yet Ii couldn't easily fix. I first mount the insert on the lathe spindle backwards and dress the flat on the end that will eventually seat against the lathe spindle. For this I use a small carbide cutting tool held firmly flat on a box rest and held by hand - the one I use is mounted in a tool holder from my metal lathe, but a hand held straight or pointed carbide bit of any type should work. Sandpaper on a sanding stick or a good file held firmly will also work.

After the mating end is flat, I reverse the insert to expose the end that seats in the chuck. This end is often the problem. Again, I dress that end with a carbide cutting bit until it's perfectly flat, then smooth with a file and/or sanding sticks. Debur that if needed, clean, and insert into the chuck.

After adjustment, the runout on all of my "sloppy" SN2 chucks has gone from 0.003 down to 0.0005. This is more precision than needed for woodturning but at least I know I need to blame any problems on me instead of the chuck!

All this makes me think that the inserts are not being made to as precise standards as possible, BUT they can easily be tuned if I want more precision. Also, in discussing this with others, some feel that the unmodified runout of 0.003 is fine for a woodturning chuck.

JKJ
That’s a great tip- thanks! Can you share an example of the carbide cutting bit you use?
 
I have a number of 1 x 8 direct threat chucks (all Nova G3 - each hosting a variety of jaws) for my Laguna 12/16. Going to a larger lathe (PM3520C for example), the headstock spindles are all 1 1/4 x 8.

What is everyone's experience using the 1 1/4 x 8 to 1 x 8 adapters to use the 1 x 8 chucks on 1 1/4 x 8 spindles? Do the 1 x 8 chucks with the adapter still seat properly on the headstock spindle? Do you end up getting excessive vibrations?

Or, do I need to plan to purchase new 1 1/4 x 8 chucks?

Pros/cons please.
Works dandy! You’ll lose 2-1/2 to 3” of max spindle length. Buy better (more expensive) rather than cheaper for greater accuracy in the adapter. Going from 1”x8TPI to 1-1/4” seems to be a little less precise than going from 1-1/4”x 8TPI to 1”. You get what you pay for.
 
That’s a great tip- thanks! Can you share an example of the carbide cutting bit you use?
I'll try to get a photo tomorrow. It's basically a carbide cutter for the metal lathe in a quick-change tool mount. Since the steel to be trued is carbon steel, about any HSS tool would work, especially a small scraper with a flat bottom that could be pressed firmly against the tool rest, or better, a flat box rest such as the one from Robust or Best Wood Tools.

I've machined several things from steel using a HSS scraper ground somewhat like a HSS bit for a metal lathe. If removing a lot of steel it's not all that pleasant but sure works.

JKJ
 
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