3520C on\off switch problem, again

[Jeff Struewing]

Within 6 months of purchase in 2018, the green\red on\off switch went bad - red always turns machine off, but green button wouldn't work, intermittently at first but progressively worse until the lathe was unusable. Powermatic sent a replacement that I installed and it worked fine for a month or two but then failed in the same way. The next replacement they sent was clearly a different brand and it worked for over 3 years. But in the last few months, it too is going bad. Throughout all this, opening up the switch box and using compressed air to clean out any dust and debris, tightening screws (which were never noticeably loose), etc. doesn't fix it.

Currently, I can still usually get it to go on by letting the magnet "snap" the unit back up against the lathe a time or two and pressing green button.
What is new this time is that the reverse button has also started to fail - it will stop working for a week or two then come back to life, but it hasn't worked now for over a month.

I'm planning to order another replacement on/off switch, but the fact that my reverse button doesn't work makes me wonder if there is something else going on?
Anyone else experiencing problems with the 3520C switches? A neighbor of mine has had similar issues but we haven't heard much of anything else about it on forums and the like.

 

[Daniel Henry]

Within 6 months of purchase in 2018, the green\red on\off switch went bad - red always turns machine off, but green button wouldn't work, intermittently at first but progressively worse until the lathe was unusable. Powermatic sent a replacement that I installed and it worked fine for a month or two but then failed in the same way. The next replacement they sent was clearly a different brand and it worked for over 3 years. But in the last few months, it too is going bad. Throughout all this, opening up the switch box and using compressed air to clean out any dust and debris, tightening screws (which were never noticeably loose), etc. doesn't fix it.

Currently, I can still usually get it to go on by letting the magnet "snap" the unit back up against the lathe a time or two and pressing green button.
What is new this time is that the reverse button has also started to fail - it will stop working for a week or two then come back to life, but it hasn't worked now for over a month.

I'm planning to order another replacement on/off switch, but the fact that my reverse button doesn't work makes me wonder if there is something else going on?
Anyone else experiencing problems with the 3520C switches? A neighbor of mine has had similar issues but we haven't heard much of anything else about it on forums and the like.

My C model is about 2 and 1/2 years old. The off/on push buttons have not been a problem. However, the forward/reverse is a slide switch and on occasion has failed to function in the reverse mode. A gentle tap and some compressed air has fixed the problem.

 

[Richard Adams]

I have the original version of the Powermatic 3520 and have never had a problem with the switches. However, my Vicmarc VL300 "on" switch frequently malfunctions. I have replaced it, but it quite inconvenient to get at.

 

[Larry Komroff]

You can replace just the contact block which will separate from the switch (top part). I would separate the 2 pieces and search for "reny contact block replacemennt" and try a name brand that will mate. Ebay has a few sellers of the contact block. It is normally closed contact

 

[Jeff Struewing]

You can replace just the contact block which will separate from the switch (top part). I would separate the 2 pieces and search for "reny contact block replacemennt" and try a name brand that will mate. Ebay has a few sellers of the contact block. It is normally closed contact

Thanks Larry, that is the way I'm leaning; just a little concerned that the reverse switch doesn't work either

 

[Karl Best]

The reverse switch on my three year old 3520C has been wonky for quite a while. It'll work for a few weeks, then not at all. I don't use it often, though, so I've not yet tried taking it apart.

 

[Aaron Harris]

My C model is a little over a year old. I got it new during Woodcraft's Black Friday sale in '22. I have been thrilled by everything about it but the switch (though I do love and use the magnetic remote!). My green on switch will occasionally quit working, and then start again after a good blow-out. If I ever lose the reverse, that is going to be a problem, as I switch directions often when sanding. When I was really having problems with it, tech support at JPW Industries sent me this:

The remote is not a dust free seal box. It does get dust inside but can generally be fixed.

1. Unplug the machine
2. Turn the on/off switch "firmly" back and forth on and off about 20 times

If that does not work, you can remove the back 6 screws of the remote.

This on-off reset procedure did work for me, and I try to blow it out after turning dusty, dry woods. As with the Lagunas, the stupid cheap switches are the problem.

 

[Jeff Struewing]

My C model is a little over a year old. I got it new during Woodcraft's Black Friday sale in '22. I have been thrilled by everything about it but the switch (though I do love and use the magnetic remote!). My green on switch will occasionally quit working, and then start again after a good blow-out. If I ever lose the reverse, that is going to be a problem, as I switch directions often when sanding. When I was really having problems with it, tech support at JPW Industries sent me this:

The remote is not a dust free seal box. It does get dust inside but can generally be fixed.

1. Unplug the machine
2. Turn the on/off switch "firmly" back and forth on and off about 20 times

If that does not work, you can remove the back 6 screws of the remote.

This on-off reset procedure did work for me, and I try to blow it out after turning dusty, dry woods. As with the Lagunas, the stupid cheap switches are the problem.

Thanks, Aaron, I'll give that a try.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

After replacing my 3520C on/off switch once about two years ago (machine is 3 1/2 years old, I’ve kept my remote control box in a thin gallon size plastic bag with a twist tie around the cord. Bag is loose enough that I have no difficulty turning the speed knob through it. Over these two years I’ve had no further problems with it. Not ideal, but it beats changing out switches.

 

[Jeff Struewing]

After replacing my 3520C on/off switch once about two years ago (machine is 3 1/2 years old, I’ve kept my remote control box in a thin gallon size plastic bag with a twist tie around the cord. Bag is loose enough that I have no difficulty turning the speed knob through it. Over these two years I’ve had no further problems with it. Not ideal, but it beats changing out switches.

Low tech but effective, I like it!

 

[Gary Morgan]

The reverse function stopped working. The tech advised blowing it out and dropping a plastic sandwich bag over it; this has worked for about four years now. It’s a little clumsy to use bit I’m used to it now.

 

[robo hippy]

Well, to me, I think the suppliers of the on/off switches and the variable speed knobs consider them to not be worth the effort of making them so they will last forever. No idea what the price would end up being if they made them that way.... I did have to replace the on/off button on my AB. It didn't wear out, but after thousands of bowls, the walnut oil seeped all the way inside and the button would not go in and out any more. Maybe it was just the off button.... They don't make them so I can't break them......

robo hippy

 

[Dean Center]

As many of you, I've discovered that the components, even the wear sensitive components, of shop tools are as cheap as possible. Thankfully, some of the sellers spec readily available components, which can be replaced cheaply. And often.

 

[Darryl Fective]

A standard light switch is a very cheap and permanent fix. It's only a low signal voltage thru the control wiring and a household switch is plenty capable, while more dustproof and durable.

 

[Greg Carles]

I wonder if this problem has been fixed by powermatic yet?
I just ordered a new 3520C and took advantage of the 15% off with free shipping.
Should I plan on putting the switch in a plastic bag from the start?

 

[Mark Jundanian]

That's a fair question to put to customer service.

 

[Greg Carles]

That's a fair question to put to customer service.

Sounds like a good idea.
I will give them a call and report back here what they say.

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

My advice is demand a fix from the manufacturer when a product fails in a unreasonable time period.

When off-shore machinery became the norm forums were full of ways to fix problems with the machines. While the fixes many times made the posters proud of their cleverness it only encouraged manufacturers to continue producing inferior machinery with problems.

You have to hit the manufacturer or dealer where it hurts. If the item is still in warranty try stopping payment on the credit card (credit card companies tend to favor the card holder over sellers). Tell everyone on forums like this about problems, especially experiences with customer service.

 

[Greg Carles]

I made the call to them and am waiting on a call back. I'm interested to hear what they have to say about the issue.

 

[Jonathan Silwones]

2 years of hard use on my 3520C and it’s been flawless.
I do take issue why turning the power off and cycling a switch 20 times would fix anything. They are just blowing smoke.

 

[Jerry Bochenek]

I've had my 3520C 2.5 years and have not had a problem with the switches. I do not blow the dust to clean the swtches with compressed air. that seems like it would just blow the dust into the switch. I use my shop vac about once a week or after a dusty project to suck the dust out of the switches.

 

[John K Jordan]

When the big on-off switch on a Jet1642 failed after a few years (almost 20 years ago) I took it apart, cleaned the dust out of the inside, cleaned the contacts, put dielectric grease on the contacts, then filled most of the internal volume with dielectric grease. Put it back together, wrapped back case carefully with plastic stretch wrap, taped the wrap carefully, and reinstalled it. Last of the problem. If any fine dust did get inside, I figured the dielectric grease would keep it well away from the contacts.

Don't know if I'd use the same thing on other switches, depends on how they're made. But I do use dielectric grease inside of many switches that come apart, on wire contacts, and on light sockets/bases indoor and out, - especially on automotive, farm equipment, and extension cord connectors, and basically anything else that might be exposed exposed to the elements or humidity. You can buy small tubes at auto parts stores and larger containers at electrical supply houses, some with pressure or pump applicators.

In my experience, a lot of people have problems with electrical switches but it seems worse around the fine dust on lathes. I can't count how many switches I've repaired or replaced for others.

JKJ

 

[robo hippy]

The proverbial, "why is there not enough time to do it right, but always time enough to do it over" situation. My suggestion would be to go to an electrical supply place with the dead/broken switches and ask them. They can probably find an "industrial" grade switch. My 3520A went for a couple of years before both the on/off button and forward/reverse buttons didn't work. Can't remember if I replaced them this way or not....

robo hippy

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

I do take issue why turning the power off and cycling a switch 20 times would fix anything. They are just blowing smoke.

There is one thing to try with switches that quit working. All my woodworking machines are old and switch problems presumably from dust in switches are common. Spraying electrical contact cleaner in/on around the switch hoping some will seep inside more often than not can clear them. Sometimes they have to be taken apart, but some can't be taken apart.

Recently two expensive machine tool lamps that hadn't been used for a couple years had the little plastic twist on/off knobs frozen in position. Possibly corrosion may have stopped the shafts from rotating. Rather than force them and risk breaking the knobs I sprayed contact cleaner on a couple times a day eventually freeing them up like new.

My 1940's Delta bandsaw has the switch on the under mounted motor with a control rod extending up within operator reach. They're unusual switches common on older Delta machines. Easy to take apart but need another pair of hands in reassembly to hold the springs while inserting screws.

 

[Brian Gustin]

I do take issue why turning the power off and cycling a switch 20 times would fix anything. They are just blowing smoke.

Nah. Like many other low voltage circuits I often worked with (12 volt lawnmowers, tractors, etc) a switch designed for higher voltage (120v is the typical nominal value) generally the voltage is sufficient even at low amps to break through an oxidation layer that may build up on a switch that isn't under constant regular use - However, lower voltages (I.E. 15 VDC in a control circuit , for example) may not have sufficient amperage to break past the oxidation layer so eventually it "loses contact" and switch needs some exercise (creating bit of friction in the contact surfaces to rub away the oxidation layer) which is why a series of rapid on/off cycling of the switch can be quite effective - No smoke blowing involved. Now if they instead designed the switch for specific 15 volt low amps applications, they'd probably have trouble free switches, but the cost of such a switch would be more than three times the cost of a similar over-rated switch, so obviously they'll go with the cheaper option.

 

[John K Jordan]

...keep the movable switch away from shavings and dust by moving it to the end of the lathe near the tail stock end when turning. He said not to keep it docked at the head stock pocket (where it comes on the lathe) but instead when turning to move to end of lathe by the tail stock area to protect it from dust and shavings. He said any switch subject to dust can fail and that it is best to move away from the head stock area to protect it from failing.

That doesn't sound like a great solution from the lathe usage POV. Maybe they could spec better switches.

switch needs some exercise (creating bit of friction in the contact surfaces to rub away the oxidation layer)

That's one of the reasons I use at least a smear of dielectric grease (silicone) on all contacts: switch, connector, and otherwise, high voltage/current and low. The stuff keeps air and humidity away from the contact surfaces to minimize oxidation. I also apply it to the battery terminals of auto, mower, excavator, etc., light bulb sockets.

I know some people recommend to NOT apply the dielectric grease to the metal conductors, but I disagree. A good connector or switch contact has some contact pressure which pushes the thin smear away from the metal. All I can add is I've been using this stuff for decades with zero problems.

JKJ

 

[GRJensen]

That doesn't sound like a great solution from the lathe usage POV. Maybe they could spec better switches.



That's one of the reasons I use at least a smear of dielectric grease (silicone) on all contacts: switch, connector, and otherwise, high voltage/current and low. The stuff keeps air and humidity away from the contact surfaces to minimize oxidation. I also apply it to the battery terminals of auto, mower, excavator, etc., light bulb sockets.

I know some people recommend to NOT apply the dielectric grease to the metal conductors, but I disagree. A good connector or switch contact has some contact pressure which pushes the thin smear away from the metal. All I can add is I've been using this stuff for decades with zero problems.

JKJ

I don't see how you could use dielectric grease on these. The contacts on the switches Powermatic is using on the 3520C and 2014 have no exposed contacts ... they are in a plastic enclosure inside the pendant that you would have to break open to get at them. When mine failed (5 years ago), the Powermatic tech told me the problem was dust infiltration around the start/stop buttons on the front of the assembly. He shipped me a replacement, which was slightly different than the original switch. Took about 15 minutes to install ... no problem since then.

 

[Greg Carles]

He shipped me a replacement, which was slightly different than the original switch. Took about 15 minutes to install ... no problem since then.

After you replaced it did you put the new one in a plastic zip lock baggie ?

 

[John K Jordan]

..contacts ... they are in a plastic enclosure inside the pendant that you would have to break open to get at them. When mine failed (5 years ago), the Powermatic tech told me the problem was dust infiltration around the start/stop buttons on the front of the assembly. He shipped me a replacement, which was slightly different than the original switch.

Well that's different!

JKJ

 

[Steven Forrest]

I recently went through the start switch not working consistently, then hardly at all. PM gave me some instructions as noted above. What ended up helping the most was disassembling the pendant (easier than I expected, and taking the switch out/apart, and blowing all that out. Also, PM sent me this little clear rubbery cover for the switches, which I installed on reassembly. It has worked consistently since then. (Customer service at PM sent it gratis, but it sounds like some folks have purchased it. CS did note that the printed manual is out of date re: the current details on the switch. It sounds like the little cover piece is included now with the lathes.

There is another related thread that was started May 28, 2020 titled "3520C On-Off Switch Problem". I revived it earlier this year, and Greg Norman posted some very helpful photos that got me through all this. Check it out.

 

[Gary Morgan]

After you replaced it did you put the new one in a plastic zip lock baggie ?

The sandwich bag upgrade has worked well for me.

 

[GRJensen]

After you replaced it did you put the new one in a plastic zip lock baggie ?

No ... I just hit it with 90psi once in a while. I keep forgetting to call PM and ask for the cover others have noted above.

 

[Aaron Harris]

I was starting to have some trouble with my 3520C switch-box too. I found that just blowing it out with compressed air after every use mostly fixed the problem. But after reading this thread, I put a half-gallon ziploc bag around it so I don't have to do that. Now I want one of those switch covers like Steven got. Maybe I'll call them one day.

 

[Greg Carles]

Now I want one of those switch covers like Steven got. Maybe I'll call them one day.

Hey, let us know if they you get one. If you have any luck, I will try to get one also.
Maybe they are now coming on new machines???
Mine should be delivered next week?

 

[Greg Carles]

I just saw on a Facebook owners group, pictures of an unboxing of the PM 2014 and it had the clear plastic / rubber cover over the power switch buttons right our of the box??
Maybe they are starting to put them on ? although this was a different model of PM lathe it has the same design moveable power switch.

 

[Nino G. Cocchiarella]

Within 6 months of purchase in 2018, the green\red on\off switch went bad - red always turns machine off, but green button wouldn't work, intermittently at first but progressively worse until the lathe was unusable. Powermatic sent a replacement that I installed and it worked fine for a month or two but then failed in the same way. The next replacement they sent was clearly a different brand and it worked for over 3 years. But in the last few months, it too is going bad. Throughout all this, opening up the switch box and using compressed air to clean out any dust and debris, tightening screws (which were never noticeably loose), etc. doesn't fix it.

Currently, I can still usually get it to go on by letting the magnet "snap" the unit back up against the lathe a time or two and pressing green button.
What is new this time is that the reverse button has also started to fail - it will stop working for a week or two then come back to life, but it hasn't worked now for over a month.

I'm planning to order another replacement on/off switch, but the fact that my reverse button doesn't work makes me wonder if there is something else going on?
Anyone else experiencing problems with the 3520C switches? A neighbor of mine has had similar issues but we haven't heard much of anything else about it on forums and the like.

Jeff, exactly the same here. Sometimes a "tap-tap-tap' on the side of the remote will get her to start up. Sometimes she spins up first push. I have taken the back cover off the remote and blown out dust over and over. I have blown out dust from the front side too. I have even tried the bag trick which make adjusting the speed hard... Again, sometimes these tricks will work sometimes they do not. I have noticed it is more problematic during rainy wet periods. Warm dry weather seems to be the unit prefers. Seems like this is something Powermatic should help with. It's kind of a drag when you working with your $5k lathe and it only starts when it wants to.

I have not replace the switch ($100+shipping and weeks apparently).

This is the responce I got from Powermatic:
It does sound like the switch part 3520C-1415 You can place an order with customer service at 1.800.274.6848
The remote is not dust proof. You can unplug the machine.....then flip the switch on and off about 20 time.....then plug the machine up and see if that helped.

 

[Aaron Harris]

I called up PM and surprisingly got that rubber switch cover the next day. It protects the switches, but doesn't cover anything else. Seems to work so far. Cheap fix, but doesn't look like it will last long-we'll see.

 

[GRJensen]

I called up PM and surprisingly got that rubber switch cover the next day. It protects the switches, but doesn't cover anything else. Seems to work so far. Cheap fix, but doesn't look like it will last long-we'll see.

Me too! They shipped me covers for both my 3520C and 2014 at no charge ... seems to have taken care of the problem. I blew the switches out with 90psi and slipped the covers on. Easy-peasy. I was surprised there was no charge as both of my lathes are out of warranty.

 

[Isaac Fisher]

When the big on-off switch on a Jet1642 failed after a few years (almost 20 years ago) I took it apart, cleaned the dust out of the inside, cleaned the contacts, put dielectric grease on the contacts, then filled most of the internal volume with dielectric grease. Put it back together, wrapped back case carefully with plastic stretch wrap, taped the wrap carefully, and reinstalled it. Last of the problem. If any fine dust did get inside, I figured the dielectric grease would keep it well away from the contacts.

Don't know if I'd use the same thing on other switches, depends on how they're made. But I do use dielectric grease inside of many switches that come apart, on wire contacts, and on light sockets/bases indoor and out, - especially on automotive, farm equipment, and extension cord connectors, and basically anything else that might be exposed exposed to the elements or humidity. You can buy small tubes at auto parts stores and larger containers at electrical supply houses, some with pressure or pump applicators.

In my experience, a lot of people have problems with electrical switches but it seems worse around the fine dust on lathes. I can't count how many switches I've repaired or replaced for others.

JKJ

This is the way