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40/40 grind with jigs, and swept back

R

robo hippy

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I had a friend over for a play date and was trying to walk him through the process of learning to platform sharpen the 40/40 grind. I looked at his swept back grind, and found it slightly amazing at how thin/acute the wings were on it. Since I only use the platform for sharpening, his grinds looked really strange. So, the problem with jigs is that you can't roll as far to the sides as you can and should do when using the platform. The solution, to me would be to have the gouge mount in a sleeve that is in a tube. The tube fits into the jig, but is able to rotate/roll. There would be stops on both the tube and the jig/arm so you can't roll too far when using the jig. I don't have the mechanical ability to make some thing like this. Different size tubes for different sized gouges. Easy pop in/pop out.....

I don't have the mechanical abilities to make some thing like this, but some one should have thought of this a long time ago.....

robo hippy
 
Ummmm…Tormek did. The current iteration for gouges is the SVD-186R jig. It can be used with tormek or other water wheel units (I use a Grizzly) or with a bench grinder with the BGM-100, which I use for shaping and secondary bevels. Stuart Batty refers to the Tormek (and might have mentioned another) jig as able to produce a 40/40 grind.

Hannes Michelsen’s jig and pivot platform use jig pivots out to each side to create a higher bevel angle on the wings, but his is focused on 55-60 deg bevel angles I think. I dont know if his set up could produce a good 40/40 grind.

The issue with most of the gouge jigs is only having a center pivot. They create too acute of an angle on the wings for a true 40/40 grind. I can’t say how much of an issue that really is, as long as the nose bevel is 40, and the wings sweep back at 40, and are strait, not concave or convex. I suspect it could be a pretty acute wing angle creating a fragile edge.

The tormek jig slides to each side on the tool bar, and the jig rotates to roll the tool. Tormek has videos showing how it works. My 60 deg bowl gouge grind is more a copy of Michelsen’s, with 3/4” wings but a fairly consistent bevel angle, vs an Ellsworth grind with more acute wing bevels. I’ve not tried to create an Ellsworth type with the Tormek. I don’t know if the jig can do it or not. I like the higher wing angle for bevel riding slicing cuts, and it still shear scrapes just as well.

A wolverine/varigrind set up could attache a piece in the v groove, where the jig pivots, with holes out to each side, to copy Michelsen’s design.
 
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Doug Freeman said:
Hannes Michelsen’s jig and pivot platform use jig pivots out to each side to create a higher bevel angle on the wings, but his is focused on 55-60 deg bevel angles I think. I dont know if his set up could produce a good 40/40 grind
Click to expand...
I have put on a 40* nose angle on a gouge using the Hannes Tools fixture. The nose angle is adjusted by moving the pivot in or out.

In fact when I think of it, the instructions that came with mine didn't specify the nose angle to use.
 
A while back I purchased Ron Brown's 40/40 jig for the Wolverine system. I don't use a 40/40 grind very often but when I do, and when I need to sharpen it, I've been very happy with this jig. I don't know how close it is to a 40/40 that is done on a platform, but it works well for me.
 
You might want check my post

40/40 Grind Using the Oneway Varigrind Jig​

in the Tutorials and Tips Forum. It shows how to get the 40/40 grind using a very slightly modified Varigrind jig.
 
I took a class with Rudy Lopez last month and using Don Geiger’s Evolution jig it was really easy to duplicate Rudy’s 40/40 grind using the Wolverine.
Flute shape was key for me. I tried the 40/40 using a standard Thompson V flute and could not get there.
Rudy’s 40/40 was a Jimmy Clewes parabolic flute. I had a D-Way 1/2” with a parabolic flute that I tried and could match his grind easily.

Evolution Sharpening System

Evolution Sharpening System
geigerssolutions.com
 
Because of my association with Stuart Batty, my relentless promotion of the 40/40, and the bottom bowl gouge, people ask me often to see their grinds. Not once I have seen one grind even resembling the Stuart batty 40/40 grind. Close sometimes, but close is not the 40/40 it is the "insert your name here" 40/40 grind. And that is OK, if it works for you it's a good grind. I'm writing an article with Stuart about the grind. The jig that comes closest to his grind is the one done using Johanas Michelson's jig. I can see why people want to try using a jig. But once you learn how to do it freehand on the platform it is fast and easy.
 
@Emiliano Achaval I recall Stuart stating in a video, dont remember which one, that the Tormek gouge jig (svd-185, svd-186) can grind the 40/40. Please “confirm or deny”, and you guys might mention the Tormek jigs in your article as to can or cannot do it.

One of the main issues I have with platform sharpening gouges is that I typically go 2-4 months without turning during peak “ motorcycle weather”. Its challenge enough to get back in the swing of turning after the hiatus, and grinding up excessive tool steel is not a cost I wish to bear.
 
I was pondering the Tormek jig, and went and looked, and sure enough, I have one, even though I don't think I ever used it. I can get the 40 degree nose bevel, but not the 40 degree wing bevel, it is still more acute than the platform variety. Looked at my Varigrind, which I have never used, and what I want could be done on it, but I would have to cut off the part above the arm/foot. I turn just enough to still have no problem with platform sharpening, but may have to see if I can make some thing work. I know it is possible. 3 basic techniques needed for platform sharpening. 1 is sweeping the tool side to side, which is what you do with scrapers. 2 is rolling from side to side which is what you do with a spindle roughing gouge. 3 is sweep and roll which is what you do with a bowl gouge.

I am not really sure how essential having the 40 degree bevel on the wings is. If you work with flutes up, then it could make a big difference. If you work with flutes on the side, then not much difference...

I will credit the 40/40 and BOB tools as the reason why I don't use swept back gouges at all any more.

robo hippy
 
robo hippy said:
I was pondering the Tormek jig, and went and looked, and sure enough, I have one, even though I don't think I ever used it. I can get the 40 degree nose bevel, but not the 40 degree wing bevel, it is still more acute than the platform variety. Looked at my Varigrind, which I have never used, and what I want could be done on it, but I would have to cut off the part above the arm/foot. I turn just enough to still have no problem with platform sharpening, but may have to see if I can make some thing work. I know it is possible. 3 basic techniques needed for platform sharpening. 1 is sweeping the tool side to side, which is what you do with scrapers. 2 is rolling from side to side which is what you do with a spindle roughing gouge. 3 is sweep and roll which is what you do with a bowl gouge.

I am not really sure how essential having the 40 degree bevel on the wings is. If you work with flutes up, then it could make a big difference. If you work with flutes on the side, then not much difference...

I will credit the 40/40 and BOB tools as the reason why I don't use swept back gouges at all any more.

robo hippy
Click to expand...
I would consider using the Tormek platform. The slow speed may help you form the tip of the gouge better.

I did make a sliding jig from aluminum extrusions and a platform that swung left and right with stops at 40 degrees. It was a lot of work and I realized that no matter what, you still have to judge manually the formation of the tip. So I tossed this jig that i spent a summer fabricating. It really turned out to be a sharpening guide. For that matter, the platform set at 40 degrees marked at 40 degrees is just a guide as well.
 
robo hippy said:
I was pondering the Tormek jig, and went and looked, and sure enough, I have one, even though I don't think I ever used it. I can get the 40 degree nose bevel, but not the 40 degree wing bevel, it is still more acute than the platform variety.
Click to expand...
I assume you have a tool bar set up to use the jig on a bench grinder or wet grinder. The jig settings I use are the “A” hole for bar distance on the tool setter, #2 on the jig setting, and 75mm tool projection. Not sure of exactly what the wing bevel is, as I’m not exactly sure what the 0 deg reference is. Putting a bevel gage across the flute, perpendicular to the shaft, the wing bevel is 35-40 deg, and they appear ~ equal to the 40 deg nose bevel.
 
@Emiliano Achaval ""insert your name here" 40/40 grind. And that is OK, if it works for you it's a good grind."

I really don't know if it is ok. This grind has been grossly misunderstood on this site. If a forum member sharpened their bowl gouge with a 40-degree wing and a 40-degree nose angle that does not necessarily mean the grind is going to perform as Batty intended. I find this disturbing.

It has been the goal of many to utilize jigs that we have such as the "varigrind" like jigs that guide the turner to create a continuous arc near the tip. That arc is usually too rounded for my purposes. The slide, jig position, Varigrind angle are positioned to force a 40-degree grind of wing and nose. The transition between the wing and nose in these types of jigs are not very helpful. ...

To understand how the grind is formed near the tip, it is key that you understand exactly how this gouge is intended to cut then you may understand what the nose of the gouge should look like and why.

My excitement with the 40/40 grind is that it can provide a healthy size cut leaving a clean burnished finish. I think everyone would agree that the best cut in woodturning is accomplished with a skew. The finish is just lovely! The Batty 4040 gouge invention combines a skew cut and gouge volume cut at the tip of his tool. If executed properly, you will get that skew finish using Batty's push cut most of the time. Don't get me wrong. You can get a very nice finishing cut with a 60 degree Elsworth gouge, a traditional U bowl gouge, spindle gouge or even a Varigrind sharpened 4040. But not as good as a Batty 4040. It's important to understand the execution of the gouge as well. It is important to note that the cut must be executed not rubbing the bevel. Rubbing the bevel will telegraph the imperfections in the wood and you will not get a great finish. Most of the force holding the gouge should be applied to the tool rest and to the target of the cut. It is known as floating the bevel. A good way to practice this cut is to turn across a winged bowl or even a block of scrap 2x4. The gouge will knock against the wood repeatedly if you are not floating the bevel and aiming your gouge properly.

That being said, if the nose of the gouge is too round, it will force the rubbing of its wide nose bevel and you will be less likely
to get that sweet finishing cut. (The traditional U bowl gouge profile if converted to 40/40 could cause this as well).

The Batty 4040 is fairly narrow at the tip and follows the profile of the gouge which should be parabolic. This profile has the wings(the skew of the cut) that meet the tip which is parabolic. It is not a circular arc that will increase the resistance by rubbing the tip and its bevel as you plow through a cut. That tip is sharpened on a 40-degree platform by rolling the tool towards the flute up position while arcing the cut following the profile of the gouge. It takes a little practice to master the cadence of this move to form the tip. BTW The cadence will vary by gouge manufacturer and by size. The tip is where the skew(wings) and gouge work together so well to give you this fantastic cut.

This is why I follow the inventors sharpening recommendations.
 
I've only been turning for about three years and I have to agree that there is a lot of misunderstanding about the various grinds. I've been trying to sort out names and angles for a while, but am still fairly uncertain about what grind I use. I think it is a Michelsen grind and I get it using the varigrind jig (abour 45-50o on the nose but much less on the wings which are relatively short). I do use the 40/40 done on a platform freehand. I also know they cut differently, but I usually end up using both gouges over the same areas of the bowl as I refine the shape. Generally I am using the 40/40 for overall shaping and then the other one for shear cutting and finishing cuts. As Robo said, you just have to practice sharpening to get the sweep/roll correct. I'll add you also have to know when to stop them as much as how to execute them simultaneously.
One broader question--I have a general understanding of how the presentation of the edge to the wood affects the cut, but does anyone know of a video or explanation of how the actual cut is happening on the gouge edge. I'd like to see some close up photos of how the different parts of the curved cutting edge is entering the wood. Is it like a skew cut starting from the forward most edge and slicing in one direction along the edge or is it more complicated due to the curve of the nose?
 
Brian Nowak-Thompson said:
I'd like to see some close up photos of how the different parts of the curved cutting edge is entering the wood. Is it like a skew cut starting from the forward most edge and slicing in one direction along the edge or is it more complicated due to the curve of the nose?
Click to expand...
When I was trying to teach myself sharpening and get a grind on my gouges that I was happy with, I kept a scrap 2x4 right next to me, and when I thought I had a grind I liked, I would use the gouge to try and take a shaving out of that 2x4 to better visualize where the gouge was gonna cut.. I think that might be far more helpful to do than to try and judge it from pictures.. ? Also helped me to see where I was floating the bevel of my gouge (Much like using a regular wood cutting chisel with the back/flat surface flat to the wood, lift it ever so slightly to get a razor thin shaving.. assuming the chisel was sharpened properly) - I think it might be a far better result to do things that way so you can get your own "personalized" grind variation - or at least get used to whatever grind you are using.. I still do that time to time when I try to experiment at re-shaping a tool to try and dial in the grinding jig or platform settings that please me.
 
Dennis Weiner said:
t has been the goal of many to utilize jigs that we have such as the "varigrind" like jigs that guide the turner to create a continuous arc near the tip. That arc is usually too rounded for my purposes. The slide, jig position, Varigrind angle are positioned to force a 40-degree grind of wing and nose. The transition between the wing and nose in these types of jigs are not very helpful. ...
Click to expand...

The jig does not force or determine the nose arc or radius, the operator does, by amount of grind dwell time in a given area of the bevel.

As Stuart demonstrates and explains the grind, a parabolic flute is utilized, wings ground back at 40 deg for a straight line (side view) of both wings, and the wings are joined together around the radius of the nose. The nose and wing bevels are 40 deg. There are no concave or convex areas from the top of the flute to the base of the flute. Its a straight line viewed from the side. The flute shape of a particular mfr’s gouge inherently determines the nose radius.
 
Doug Freeman said:
The jig does not force or determine the nose arc or radius, the operator does, by amount of grind dwell time in a given area of the bevel.
Click to expand...
IMO, the fixed radius of the Varigrind inhibits the formation of the tip rather than aid the user in its creation. For me, it's far easier to roll and twist the gouge on a platform. I think it would take me longer to learn how to form that tip using a Varigrind, You quoted Stu Batty. I quote him also as saying the Varigrind jig really doesn't work on his 40-40 Grind. However, if you can get that skew-like finish right off the tool that Batty gets with your Varigrind 40-40 gouges then great.
 
Dennis Weiner said:
IMO, the fixed radius of the Varigrind inhibits the formation of the tip rather than aid the user in its creation. For me, it's far easier to roll and twist the gouge on a platform. I think it would take me longer to learn how to form that tip using a Varigrind, You quoted Stu Batty. I quote him also as saying the Varigrind jig really doesn't work on his 40-40 Grind. However, if you can get that skew-like finish right off the tool that Batty gets with your Varigrind 40-40 gouges then great.
Click to expand...
We will just have to agree to disagree concerning whether a jig somehow controls tip radius shape vs the operator induced wheel dwell time. A person’s capability with a process does not determine the underlying principle of how that process works, but is rather a demonstration of how well that person can perform the process.

I am not speaking specifically about the varigrind, though all of them work the same way with regard to the operator controlling shape of the grind through dwell time. There are other aspects of construction/operation that determine what a particular jig is capable of producing.

Of interest is that most of the jigs can produce the 40 deg nose bevel and a straight 40 deg swept back wing. Where they differ is in the resulting wing bevel angle, typically being more acute vs platform ground, and angle of the grind direction around the bevel. "How much is too much", with regards to the wing angle (35°, 30°, 25°?) I don't know. At some point the more acute angle starts to lift fibers and create tearout, just like a skew or low attack angle on a hand plane (wood and grain dependent).

As for grind direction, I'm not at all sure of the impact. Logically it would seem that placing the gouge handle in the V of a wolverine or similar fixture, adjusting to a 40° bevel, and rotating the tool on its own axis could produce the grind, using dwell time to achieve the straight line side view. This method would change the grind direction progressively around the bevel and have an some effect on the resulting burr, but I don't know how that would effect cutting. I'm also not sure what bevel geometry results from having a parabolic flute and grinding for the 40° swept back wing straight line side view. I suspect the wing angle gets progressively steeper, as the effective tool length gets shorter as the wings are ground back, but again, how much is to much? It may also be more difficult to control the grind vs the established platform method. I don't have a wolverine/varigrind set up at home, but my club has one. I may have to experiment. Maybe others have attempted this experiment?

I do know that the 40/40 grind produced from the tormek gouge jigs I use produce the results espoused by Stuart, ie thick cuts leaving a very nice surface finish. I don't have his level of tool control to achieve the kind of equal wall thickness like he can do, so I keep practicing.
 
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All this talk about 40/40 made me give it a try. When I was a true newby, sharpening was vexing. So I purchased and used the wolverine jig and have been having good success (mostly) with an irish grind. Except for this 5/8" u-shaped Thompson that I never really liked how it cut with the irish grind. Definitely was not so good in a push cut. Now that I'm not so mesmerized by sharpening, today I ground it to a 40/40 (by hand; no jig). I am getting very nice "effortless" finishes even on end grain with it as long as I let the tool cut at its own pace. Definitely better than the irish on this u-shaped gouge. I'm going to use it for awhile along with my irish grind v-gouges and see how they compare. Perhaps I'll become a 40/40 convert. We'll see.
 
Well, this thread sure has diverged.... Love it.

Now, with the Tormek jig, I have a 25+ year old Tormek, which was before the clones came out. To see how that jig worked with the 40/40 grind, I moved the tool bar out till the bevel on one of my platform ground 40/40's matched the wheel curve, I then rolled it to the sides and there was maybe a 1/16 inch gap at the wing, so it needed several more degrees of roll to achieve a true 40/40 grind.

Nose shape is determined by 2 things, one is your flute shape, and the other is the person who is doing the sharpening. I prefer a more rounded nose, and some times it gets a bit pointed with the V flutes from Doug Thompson, and that is totally about me not paying attention to my sharpening. I correct it by spending a bit more time on the nose. Never liked the Glaser V gouge as that one was just too much of a V and the nose was always too pointy. The Jimmy Clewes and Lyle Jamieson gouges that are made by Doug are also V flutes, but more open than Doug's standard V flute.

How important the nose shape is depends a lot on how you turn. If you drop the handle, I would consider the more rounded nose would work better, but haven't turned that way in a long time. Most of the time, I hold my tools more level. I used to turn with the flutes on the side, which I think is what most call 'closed'. I am starting to turn more with the flutes more vertical, like 11, and 1 o'clock. That does make a difference, but still a new method for me. I have heard, I think it was Ashley Harwood, that one way is more aggressive than the other, but I haven't been able to tell. To me, it is more about how hard you are pushing into the wood you are cutting than any particular flute orientation.

Flutes rolled to the side, to me, means that the nose has a high shear angle, and the wing is in more of a scraping mode. Flutes more vertical means that the wing is in almost a peeling cut method and the nose is in more of a scraping mode, but this is generally not used for a roughing cut, more for a finish cut.

With a V flute and the 40/40 grind, the wing is pretty much straight. With the parabolic flute and the 40/40 grind, there is a slight convex shape to the wing. I guess I could say that you can grind a parabolic flute sweep almost straight, if you try, but it wants to turn out slightly arced.

I have one of Doug's U flutes, a 1/2 inch I think. I was not able to get a 40/40 grind on it that seemed to work. Couldn't get a swept back grind on it that I liked either. I did convert it to a 60/40 grind, so 60 degree nose bevel and 40 degrees of sweep. Makes a very good BOB tool for more shallow bowls, and goes very well through the transition.

Rubbing the bevel/floating the bevel. Can't say that I ever noticed that any particular grind of gouge influenced more burnishing as we cut. This is more on the operator. Some unknown skew master said, "the bevel should rub the wood, but the wood should not know it". I have gotten to not like a burnished surface. I have noticed that burnishing is more of a problem on dry wood than on wet wood. Jimmy Clewes mentioned that he didn't like the burnished bowl surface because when you started sanding, first thing you had to do was cut through the burnished surface before you could really sand. I experimented and this seems to be true. Since that time, I use a shear scrape almost exclusively as the final cut on my bowls. This will vary a bit depending on the wood. Probably second preferred method is the NRS, and again, that depends hugely on the wood. Being able to cut with a gouge or skew with no bevel pressure is a skill that takes a lot of practice, and is probably the biggest hurdle for beginners, and pros to overcome. If you get a chance to watch Ashley turn one of her finials for her Christmas ornaments, you will see how much of a dainty touch she has, and that is some thing every turner should aspire to. Learning the 1 handed push cut is to me an essential skill for bowl turning, and the same skill applies to spindles and skews.

You can get skew type shear/angled cuts with a swept back grind, and possibly with the 40/40. You have to drop the tool handle to your hip. This can be done on the outside of a bowl, but not the inside because the lathe gets in the way. This gets your bevel angles much more acute than when presented square on.

I never did figure out how to adapt my robo rest grinding platform to the Tormek. Their platform is on par with the Oneway Wolverine platform, which to me is sadly lacking in repeatability.

robo hippy
 
robo hippy said:
Now, with the Tormek jig, I have a 25+ year old Tormek, which was before the clones came out. To see how that jig worked with the 40/40 grind, I moved the tool bar out till the bevel on one of my platform ground 40/40's matched the wheel curve, I then rolled it to the sides and there was maybe a 1/16 inch gap at the wing, so it needed several more degrees of roll to achieve a true 40/40 grind.
Click to expand...
I dont think the age of the tormek machine matters. Just as with all the other jigs, distance to wheel, jig setting (js in tormek speak), and tool protrusion all play a roll. Do you know what jig # you have? SVD-185? 186? Do you have the TTS-100 for setting stone distance and tool protrusion? If you do I stated the set up parameters earlier, maybe you used them in your test? I think we both are just curious about how all this adds up/plays out. I need to take a gouge and use a platform to grind the wing at 40 deg (I can probably handle that) and then see how it falls on the tormek wheel.
 
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@robo hippy you caused me to spend the afternoon in the shop testing vs turning;). Figured out how to reasonably check the wing angles with a digital angle gage and wing included angle with a protractor (as a check on each other), and reinforce the fact that I can't platform sharpen worth a damn. Took a cheap 1/2" gouge and started playing. Confirmed the wing and nose bevels off the platform were 40°. Checked my current SVD-186 settings ("A" wheel distance, JS=2, 75mm projection) -nose = 37°, wing = 25°, so clearly not 40/40. The only way to get more tool roll is to go down in JS. JS = 0 didn't work at all, can't get enough wing sweep. JS = 1, with 65mm projection, got me to nose = 40°, wing = 28°. As close as can be done with the tormek jig I think. Not a lot of change but I will make those new settings my standard.

The sharper wing angles probably contribute to my control issues with the tool, and possibly a bit of extra tear out. Oh well, I'll just keep practicing.
 
The shape of a U gouge does not lend itself to long wings as the walls are too vertical. I tried it with one of my Thompson Us and it just would not cut at the wing. Perhaps it might work if you ground away the side of the gouge to a V shape. For me it doesn't matter as I found the U to be more aggressive in the cut and I have more control with the V, so the Us have their place in the cupboard:) For myself I was always amazed at the cuts made by the hat makers like Chris Ramsey and JoHannes Michelsen but sharpening freehand was just not going to work for me. When JoHannes came out with his jig I was on it with the speed of light and I cannot think now of using a gouge without the Vector Grind Fixture. Below is a comparison of a tool tip Chris Ramsey gave me (foreground) and my gouge sharpened on the Vector Grind Fixture (back). My advise find a grind that works for you and practice, practice practice as the grind is secondary where a sharp tool and knowing how to use it is primary!
 

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Bill, what nose angle are you using with the Vector, I just bought the Vector and have been using a 50 deg nose angle
 
Doug, I have the 180 model, so almost a fossil. I just eyeballed things to match the current nose bevel. Tried a couple of variations on the angle of the the jig from straight to at 40 degrees, and still get the same wing shape/angle, which I would guess is similar to your 37 degrees, which just eyeballing again, maybe a bit less than 1/16 inch gap between the wing angle and the actual edge of the wing. I don't know if that makes any real difference.

Wish there were Star Trek transporters so we could do a play date....

robo hippy
 
Going to second what Emiliano said: "once you learn how to do it freehand on the platform it is fast and easy".
Batty has plenty of videos on how to sharpen using a platform.
Note that inside the bowl cuts need at least a secondary bevel or there are issues with the bevel rubbing.
 
Mark Jundanian said:
Doug, can you shoot some pictures of what you measured and how you did it?
Click to expand...
These pics show orientation of the gauge and gouge only, not bevel contact. The challenge is to get raking light just right so you tell when you are on the bevel. The gouge primary bevel is only about 3/16" wide during this exercise. Much easier if your gouge has a full bevel, but I wasn't going to shorten the steel that much. The digital angle gage is turned off intentionally. I could not find the bevel and take a pic at the same time.

1st pic - gouge handle held in a vise. approx level to ground, flute facing down. Place the digital angle gage on the shaft and zero.
2nd pic - angle gage placed on the bevel inline with the gouge shaft, take reading
3rd pic - the gouge flute is rotated 90°, open to the side. The digital gage is placed parallel on the shaft and zeroed. The gage reference surface is then placed approx perpendicular to the 40° wing sweep edge, then onto the bevel, take reading
4th pic - using a steel protractor, get a leg onto each wing bevel with the gage held perpendicular to the wing edge. Stand on your head, chew gum, rub your tummy, and find the raking light in just the right spot. Much easier with a full width bevel.

My "control" was platform grinding the nose and a wing at 40° and checking with the digital gauge, and recorded 40° for both.

IMG_2549.jpgIMG_2550.jpgIMG_2551.jpgIMG_2552.jpg
 
I will have to check the nose angle as I have never moved the control arm of the jig since I added it to the grinder and as far as I know I just stuck the control arm in and made sure I was grinding above center. If that is the case it just reinforces my previous statement about finding a grind that works for you. I guess I am lucky enough to have a personal grinder that only I use (there are 3 other grinders for hands on folks to use).
 
I was just thinking that that Wixey jig could work on the Oneway platform. Won't work on the robo rest, or at least not well because it is stainless steel... Platform at 90 degrees would have to be level/even with the center of the grinder axle.

robo hippy
 
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