• May 2025 Turning Challenge: Long Neck Hollowform! (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Phil Hamel winner of the April 2025 Turning Challenge (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Dion Wisniewski for "Basketweave" being selected as Turning of the Week for 12 May, 2025 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

8 inch baldor cbn wheel cover solution

Nick Boyd

Nick Boyd

Joined
Feb 18, 2015
Messages
49
Likes
11
Location
Pensacola, Florida
8065698B-5C1D-47E1-AD86-C0544D3AAFE3.jpeg F04AC3DB-31B3-4DFC-AADB-A785C3DC49B6.jpeg 10F0C6F1-4E7D-4953-A253-BBAB46EE8422.jpeg I became stubborn wanting my 8 inch baldor grinder wheel covers off with cbn install. The inner wheel covers hold in the guts/bearings so makes it seem impossible to not have them - I had some aluminum plate hanging around from another project long ago and made some ends...... eureka -
 
I keep the wheel covers on to control the fine metal dust that comes off the wheels. It will float around in the air for a day or three, just like the fine wood dust does. I found metal dust inside of a box (dog ears tucked into sides of box and magnetic base inside the box) 2 feet away from my grinder. Another turner hung a magnet about 10 feet away from his grinder and it got fuzzy with metal dust.

robo hippy
 
Bill Boehme said:
That's nice machine work, but I don't understand why you wanted to remove the guards.
Click to expand...

Felt like they r in my way of my jig setup and felt like they did not do enough to control the metal dust anyway; i have a dedicated DC unit that sucks the dust in to a smaller wet dry unit that sucks in the dust, positioned the hose so the dust hits some water in the bottom before it hits the filter ( for the most part) that seems to pull any perceivable metal dust out of the shop air - I think it works - certainly the inside of the container is scummed with metal dust like the bottom of my tomek grinder bath.
 
robo hippy said:
I keep the wheel covers on to control the fine metal dust that comes off the wheels. It will float around in the air for a day or three, just like the fine wood dust does. I found metal dust inside of a box (dog ears tucked into sides of box and magnetic base inside the box) 2 feet away from my grinder. Another turner hung a magnet about 10 feet away from his grinder and it got fuzzy with metal dust.

robo hippy
Click to expand...

Yes, I saw previous post discussions.....
 
Nick Boyd said:
Felt like they r in my way of my jig setup and felt like they did not do enough to control the metal dust anyway; i have a dedicated DC unit that sucks the dust in to a smaller wet dry unit that sucks in the dust, positioned the hose so the dust hits some water in the bottom before it hits the filter ( for the most part) that seems to pull any perceivable metal dust out of the shop air - I think it works - certainly the inside of the container is scummed with metal dust like the bottom of my tomek grinder bath.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

I have an older Delta grinder that is very similar to the Baldor and it has guards that are wide enough to accommodate the 1½" CBN wheels and it also has a port on the back to hook it to a shop vac or a DC. I'm not ready to put CBN wheels on my grinder, but I was considering what Reed had said about fine metal dust that I wouldn't want to breathe.

I currently have a CBN wheel on my Tormek and I use a water bath just as I did with the aluminum oxide wheel after seeing the mess caused by running the wheel dry.
 
Bill Boehme said:
Thanks.

I have an older Delta grinder that is very similar to the Baldor and it has guards that are wide enough to accommodate the 1½" CBN wheels and it also has a port on the back to hook it to a shop vac or a DC. I'm not ready to put CBN wheels on my grinder, but I was considering what Reed had said about fine metal dust that I wouldn't want to breathe.

I currently have a CBN wheel on my Tormek and I use a water bath just as I did with the aluminum oxide wheel after seeing the mess caused by running the wheel dry.
Click to expand...

I would think you would get the same metal dust off your delta PLUS the worn wheel dust whatever your delta has on it - Question about the tormek (I have one) which wheel do you have on it to keep it from rusting? - so you do all your sharpening on it? been thinking about giving it to my nephew with a CBN wheel but wanted to know if a wheel exist that can take the water bath.
 
Nick Boyd said:
I would think you would get the same metal dust off your delta PLUS the worn wheel dust whatever your delta has on it - Question about the tormek (I have one) which wheel do you have on it to keep it from rusting? - so you do all your sharpening on it? been thinking about giving it to my nephew with a CBN wheel but wanted to know if a wheel exist that can take the water bath.
Click to expand...

I currently have the Norton 3X wheels on my Delta, but I don't use it much. When I do, I have my shop vac connected to collect the dust. Otherwise, I have a cloud of ceramic and metal dust followed by severe respiratory problems.

I do practically all of my sharpening on my Tormek. The aluminum oxide wheel was just about worn out so I bought a 1000 grit CBN wheel from Ken Rizza (Woodturners Wonders) at SWAT last August. The wheel is 6061 aluminum so there isn't a rusting issue. I just noticed that he has added the word "waterless" for the Tormek wheels and also now says that it will void the warranty if you run it in water. Maybe some people leave the wheel in water 24/7. Doing so would also ruin the Tormek matrix stones and cause the shaft to corrode. I empty the water tray when I am through using the Tormek and I dry the wheel. My CBN wheel still looks brand new and by running it in water, all od the dust is neatly contained. If I had to run it dry, I wouldn't waste my time and money with CBN on the Tormek. I'm not concerned about the warranty anyway because I think that it's fairly worthless considering all of the disclaimers. One thing that surprised me about the aluminum wheel is how heavy it is ... about the same as the stone wheels. My only regret is that I didn't get the 1200 grit CBN wheel.
 
Bill,

What are you seeing on the 1000 grit wheel that makes you wish for the 1200 grit ?

Also, how does the CBN wheel fit into your routine (vs. the Std 200/1000 grit grindstone and the 4000 grit Japanese stone) ?

Rich
 
The 1000 grit CBN wheel doesn't give as refined an edge as the graded aluminum oxide stone, but it seems to be getting better as the CBN wheel is "broken in". Last fall I gave my Tormek a makeover with new shaft, bushings, drive wheel, leather honing wheel, gray wheel, and black wheel in addition to the CBN wheel. I still prefer using my original 19 year old water tray even though I have the new style tray (stashed away somewhere) with the flared sides. The trouble with the new tray is that it interferes with sharpening some of my bowl gouges that have long swept back wings.

When I talked to Ken at SWAT I originally said that I wanted to get the 1200 grit CBN wheel. He insisted that the 600 grit wheel was all that I would need and demoed it for me using a mock-up of a Tormek. He thought that I would be impressed, but I really wasn't. Anyway, I let him talk me into getting the 1000 grit CBN wheel. Who knows, if I had gotten the 1200 wheel, I might have liked the edge it puts on tools, but might not like the time it takes to sharpen a tool. I can't afford to get a 1200 grit CBN wheel just to do a comparison.

If I were sharpening a skew, I would want to switch to my gray aluminum oxide stone to get the cleanest edge. If I were into hand carving I would consider the Japanese water stone, but right now I'm satisfied with the polished edge that I get on my turning tools.
 
Bill -
I have a tormek with the grey stone wheel. (I bought a lightly used Tormek 2000 with all of the jigs available for what I considered cheap) I have tried every way I can think of to sharpen my 1.25" Laser skew and have given up in total frustration. My Tormek is relegated to sharpening knives, bench chisels and jointer blades. The hassle with jointers blades has induced me to just buy new ones. I consider the Tormek purchase as one of my poorest tool decisions.

Would you be open to giving me a tutorial on skew sharpening on a tormek? Allen isn't that far from Dalworthington Gardens.
 
Paul Gilbert said:
Bill -
I have a tormek with the grey stone wheel. (I bought a lightly used Tormek 2000 with all of the jigs available for what I considered cheap) I have tried every way I can think of to sharpen my 1.25" Laser skew and have given up in total frustration. My Tormek is relegated to sharpening knives, bench chisels and jointer blades. The hassle with jointers blades has induced me to just buy new ones. I consider the Tormek purchase as one of my poorest tool decisions.

Would you be open to giving me a tutorial on skew sharpening on a tormek? Allen isn't that far from Dalworthington Gardens.
Click to expand...

Skew sharpening on the Tormek is a time consuming chore although I heard somewhere (possibly from Rich) that it is much faster on the black stone wheel. Trying to sharpen the Lacer slab of steel skew on the Tormek is inhumane punishment that ought to be a violation of the Geneva convention. The best deal for the Lacer skew is to get a 400 grit CBN wheel on a regular dry grinder.

My favorite skew is a Sorby oval skew. There is a Tormek jig that is perfect for holding it. My skews stay sharp a very long time ... they just don't go dull very quickly when sitting in a drawer. :D
 
Just with a visual check, no magnification, on the edges I get from my ancient 180 grit CBN wheels, and my much newer 1000 grit CBN wheel, the old wheel leaves a much more polished edge. I haven't tried a skew on them and then hone and cut. Might be an interesting experiment...

robo hippy
 
I took a class that Alan Lacer taught at the Dallas Club. He used the club's 180 grit CBN wheel and then hones. He hones everything. I only hone my skews.
 
Paul Gilbert said:
I have a tormek with the grey stone wheel. (I bought a lightly used Tormek 2000 with all of the jigs available for what I considered cheap) I have tried every way I can think of to sharpen my 1.25" Laser skew and have given up in total frustration.
Click to expand...

Paul,

Some thoughts I can offer are :
  1. Once you have a angle setup on the tool, you should only be sharpening the existing edge. That is much faster than trying to reshape the edge. Bill is right: that is a laborious process. (You may be doing that using the Sharpie approach Can’t be sure.)
  2. The black grindstone (SB-250) wheel is designed for high speed steel, and is much faster.
I use my Tormek to sharpen my skew, & it works very well.

If you’re seeking more, please send me a personal message.

Kind regards,
Rich
 
Nick Boyd said:
View attachment 24411 View attachment 24410 Done with both sides now, ya have to turn an
Indent to squish in agaist the spring washers -
Click to expand...
Nick, I am brand new too woodturning. Was given a deal on an old Baldor 8" 3600 rpm grinder (same style as you have; inside wheel guard holds in the bearing spring). Bought a set of CBN wheels from Woodturners Wonder, but they are not going to fit with the guards on (without a spacer to move them further out on the shaft). I was going to try and turn a wood cover similar to your AL one; I didn't know I could turn AL on my wood lathe. What tool did you use to turn AL?

Having modified your grinder and used it for a while any regrets or advise? Reading a lot about dust and magnets?

Steve
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top