This is for all you who turn pecan wood: I just finished a pecan bowl this evening. I found it a very good wood for turning but finishing was a different story. The wood was/is at 12% moisture content. I found it very difficult to obtain a smooth surface. Do any of you have a "trick" for finishing pecan?
-
Congratulations to Bernie Hyrtzak, People's Choice in the January 2026 Turning Challenge (click here for details) -
Congratulations to David Croxton for "Geri's Basket Illusion" being selected as Turning of the Week for February 2, 2026 (click here for details) -
AAW Symposium demonstrators announced - If the 2026 AAW International Woodturning Symposium is not on your calendar, now is the time to register. And there are discounts available if you sign up early, by Feb. 28. Early Bird pricing gives you the best rate for our 40th Anniversary Symposium in Raleigh, North Carolina, June 4–7, 2026. (There are discounts for AAW chapter members too) For more information vist the discussion thread here or the AAW registration page
-
Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.
A bowl of pecan
- Thread starter arbud
- Start date
Weeeellll, Two things. First off, if you finish it green the grain will deform slightly as it dries and your surface will not be mirror smooth. If you don't mind this, it can be a nice effect as it doesn't get rough, it gets textured.
Second, if your having problems finishing off the rough spots at the sanding stage, turn the lathe slow and rub a gob of paste wax into the rough spot then sand it immediately. Not completely sure why this works but I think it may be that the wax lubricates the wood so that the paper can cut it but can't grab and pull it. Just be very generous with the wax and don't wait for it to dry.
Good luck,
Dietrich
Second, if your having problems finishing off the rough spots at the sanding stage, turn the lathe slow and rub a gob of paste wax into the rough spot then sand it immediately. Not completely sure why this works but I think it may be that the wax lubricates the wood so that the paper can cut it but can't grab and pull it. Just be very generous with the wax and don't wait for it to dry.
Good luck,
Dietrich
I'll try it!
Thanks, Dietrich, I give the wax & sand a go. This is my first go @ pecan. I'll put the finished bowl in the gallery.
Thanks, Dietrich, I give the wax & sand a go. This is my first go @ pecan. I'll put the finished bowl in the gallery.
What grits of sand paper are you using.What Brand?
I have worked with pecan and not had a problem with tearout unless I try and go too fast and too hard with my tools.
I use the 3X from Norton going from 80 if needed up to 320,then I use the gray synthetic pad.
I have worked with pecan and not had a problem with tearout unless I try and go too fast and too hard with my tools.
I use the 3X from Norton going from 80 if needed up to 320,then I use the gray synthetic pad.
A gritty subject
Crane, I had no tearout problem, the wood turned beautifully. The problem was finish. I used Dietrich's wax & sand (120 grit on a pad and air die grinder + paste wax) to get the really bad areas then 320, 600, 1200, and 2000 grits on the lathe and by hand as required. I also use a green 3m pad to remove sanding scratches after the 320 grit. The 600+ grits will not scratch wood, at least from my experience.
I buy my sanding supplies from Supergrit. I've had very good service from them.
Take your time, lad, and don't get the wood hot or you'll think you're sanding a spiderweb (tiny heat-related cracks.)
Crane, I had no tearout problem, the wood turned beautifully. The problem was finish. I used Dietrich's wax & sand (120 grit on a pad and air die grinder + paste wax) to get the really bad areas then 320, 600, 1200, and 2000 grits on the lathe and by hand as required. I also use a green 3m pad to remove sanding scratches after the 320 grit. The 600+ grits will not scratch wood, at least from my experience.
I buy my sanding supplies from Supergrit. I've had very good service from them.
Take your time, lad, and don't get the wood hot or you'll think you're sanding a spiderweb (tiny heat-related cracks.)