A revolution in revolving centers.........!

[Odie]

I've been singing the praises of the "steb" center for several years, now. Ever since I used it for the first time, the old cup revolving centers just don't cut it anymore.

Those teeth really do have superior holding power, and the retracting point is nothing short of a fabulous invention......(Thanks, to whoever invented it! ) Now, there is no need for the point to penetrate but just a tiny bit!

Is the term "steb" only applied to revolving centers? I'm not sure of the limitations of the terminology, but I also have a drive "steb" center for use in the spindle #2 MT. There again, great little invention........

Now, for a question........does anyone see any applications for the old two and four prong drive centers and cup style revolving centers that the steb center can't do a better job???????? I'm not seeing one!

ooc

 

[Charlie Knighton]

step centers

Now, for a question........does anyone see any applications for the old two and four prong drive centers and cup style revolving centers that the steb center can't do a better job???????? I'm not seeing one!

no, but i have never used one,

seems to me one would need several sizes to fit different applications, and i see only one size revolving center? with limited budget, the equitment already owned and working vs this looks like a great way to do it....comes into play

question what size and where to buy

craft supplies list Sorby and Appprentice drive centers but only Sorby revolving center

woodworkers supply only has Sorby drive centers

any other options, the apprentice drive center is price better, but i assume it comes from elsewhere, Best Wood Tools does not seem to have one in catalouge

the stepdrive, which mounts in 4 jaw chucks, has been pointed out to be much better than the morse tper mounting, better priced also

looking forward to other opinions and options before coming off the hip

 

[Odie]

no, but i have never used one,

seems to me one would need several sizes to fit different applications, and i see only one size revolving center? with limited budget, the equitment already owned and working vs this looks like a great way to do it....comes into play

question what size and where to buy

craft supplies list Sorby and Appprentice drive centers but only Sorby revolving center

woodworkers supply only has Sorby drive centers

any other options, the apprentice drive center is price better, but i assume it comes from elsewhere, Best Wood Tools does not seem to have one in catalouge

the stepdrive, which mounts in 4 jaw chucks, has been pointed out to be much better than the morse tper mounting, better priced also

looking forward to other opinions and options before coming off the hip

Howdy Charlie......

Yes, correct......for those turning very large, or very small stock, there must be other sizes. As in most things, "one size fits all" isn't applicable to everyone's needs.

I suppose the only reason I posted is to get some other opinions, but it's true that since I got the steb revolving and drive centers, I've been impressed enough to make them my first choice for applications that were once dominated by centers that rely on penetration for grip. Center points and cups just can't get the kind of grip the steb teeth get, but I guess it would be arguable as to whether it's better than the prongs......

I can only see one advantage to the chuck mounted steb center........it is more solidly mounted to the spindle, through threads. Is there something else that I'm not thinking of????? Seems to me I did slip a Morse Taper accessory at one time or another, but this is a rare case, and definitely not a usual happening.

The steb drive, far right in the picture, very well may be the Apprentice, or the more inexpensive alternative from CSUSA......can't remember right now. The steb revolving center, fourth from the left, is the Sorby. It's the one I am constantly using. I'm not much of a spindle turner, but I am in continual need of a revolving center when I true up out-of-round blocks of wood for roughing out.......there, the Sorby stebcenter has been a great addition to my arsenal! It has great grip, and doesn't rely on penetration.

The penetration necessitates the removal of the surrounding wood up to the depth of the point......I'd rather not have that.

And.......this isn't much of a consideration for my purposes, but centers that rely on penetration are a big headache for spindle turners......splitting!

ooc

 

[kenvalaska]

Mr. Lacer makes a strong pitch for a safety drive (cup center or One Way Safety Drive and I include the Steb style centers - also available as a knock off from PSI or Amazon.com) because of the ability on spindle stock for the drive to spin when a catch happens. This is a huge plus with new turners, and those developing skills with skews.

I normally use the 1/2 inch steb drives with spindle turning with about an 1/8th inch drilled rebate and never lose a piece. Depending on the "knarlies" and Knots, I can be as gentle or aggressive as I need be.

The big lathe came with a 1 inch OneWay 4 prong drive, and for starting bowls I sometimes put a shallow rebate in the center and mount the log with the big drive in the rebate and with the tailstock I can be pretty agressive with reduced concern about losing the piece.

Note that for small square stock in spindle mode, a Beall chuck puck works pretty nicely to do production activity (and I use the steb live center in the tailstock). More like the old time lace bobbin turners chuck that went away from the catalogs about a decade ago.

 

[waltben]

I've never used one as a revolving center as I like my Nova's different points. I do have one I use as a drive center for smaller things and especially for spindle turning, but I vastly prefer either a screw-on two or four prong, or a screw center in a chuck for bowls over 12". When steb centers start slipping, they act more like Forstner drill bits than drive centers, and that can happen very quickly without a catch with larger pieces of wood.

 

[Steve Worcester]

In softer wood, Sycamores, Silver Leaf Maples, they tend to strip out.

 

[Odie]

In softer wood, Sycamores, Silver Leaf Maples, they tend to strip out.

Hi Steve........I've used my Sorby revolving stebcenter on all the woods you mentioned, and quite a few others to include soft punky stuff, without it ever slipping, or stripping on me. I am assuming you are speaking about the steb teeth losing their grip and spinning on the wood.......right? (Sort of like what Waltben describes, but in a revolving center?) Are you speaking about a "strip" from usual procedures, ie "normal" use......or......that which might result from a catch?

Waltben.......I can see your point. I would imagine that when using a stebcenter as a driving mechanism, the "forstner effect" could become a factor if one starts his lathe at too high a speed.......or doesn't have variable speed at all. A catch could do it, too.......

One thing that might help is to crank right down on the tailstock quill to "seat" the steb teeth into the wood. Once that is done, it will be necessary to back off ever so slightly.......that way, the teeth will set deeper, but there will be no load on the bearings during use. This seating method is something I learned in conjunction with more common drive and revolving centers....... from somone long forgotten along the way in my lathe turning trek.......

Kenvalaska......I can certainly see Lacer's point about avoiding the stebcenter for new turners, as they grip tight and new turners would benefit from a more conventional cup, and/or point that might tend to slip more readily.

Thanks for the insights and opinions.........

ooc

 

[john lucas]

It's probably just me but I don't like the steb centers. As a drive center for large work it's good and I suppose the live center would also. What I don't like about them is the pressure the spring loaded point gives. It causes longer or thin work to vibrate too much.
I have the Nova live center and think it is one of the best on the market. I use the interchangeable points for all sorts of things. Since the interchangeable points are very short #2 morse tapers they can be used in the headstock althought they can be hard to remove because they have a hollow center. It comes with one center than has a screw thread. It is threaded also so you can remove this screw and using the appropriate size screw you can add your own attachments such as a homemade reverse cone etc.
The short #2 morse taper also makes it very easy to make your own centers out of wood or plastic or even aluminum.
I've used this center for many years and never had to change the bearings. I've turned hundreds of things from really small to bowls as big as 19".
Oh did I mention it's hollow. You can use a lamp auger through it as well. Can't do that with a steb center.

 

[Odie]

It's probably just me but I don't like the steb centers. As a drive center for large work it's good and I suppose the live center would also. What I don't like about them is the pressure the spring loaded point gives. It causes longer or thin work to vibrate too much.
I have the Nova live center and think it is one of the best on the market. I use the interchangeable points for all sorts of things. Since the interchangeable points are very short #2 morse tapers they can be used in the headstock althought they can be hard to remove because they have a hollow center. It comes with one center than has a screw thread. It is threaded also so you can remove this screw and using the appropriate size screw you can add your own attachments such as a homemade reverse cone etc.
The short #2 morse taper also makes it very easy to make your own centers out of wood or plastic or even aluminum.
I've used this center for many years and never had to change the bearings. I've turned hundreds of things from really small to bowls as big as 19".
Oh did I mention it's hollow. You can use a lamp auger through it as well. Can't do that with a steb center.

Good post, John.....and glad to get your input.

Interesting about your experiences with vibration resulting from the spring loaded point.......! I don't do much spindle turning, so that's a new one on me. Is this something that other spindle turners have found, as well?.....any additional comments about that from others?

Nope, apparently you are in plenty of company with your preferences......as usual, we have a diversity of opinions, and applications.....and, as usual, my opinions tend to be in the minority! Ha! (I always have leaned towards making my own paths in life! )

If I intended to make a lamp, I'd be SOL!.....not one of my centers are hollow!

Thanks......

ooc

 

[rsser]

Steb centres used to be made by Steb, then Sorby took over the license or the manufacturing if memory serves.

 

[Charlie Knighton]

stepcenters

well since i do not have either the drive or revolving stepcenter, ya gotta start somewhere....and since i do not have a cup revolving center but do have machine shop drive cup driver.... seems the revolving center is the way to go.... now how to convince brothers thats what i need.... leave catolouge on table with item circled.... craftsupplies, psi, woodworkers supply, anybody else i should check

 

[Bill Boehme]

John Lucas makes a very good point about long thin spindles. In order to engage the teeth on the Stebcenter, considerable force is needed to depress the spring on the point -- this translates into bowing on a long thin spindle -- add to that any force from the cutting tool and the spindle will start whipping around. I have a few Stebcenters, but I only use them on on very substantial things that are far too stiff to flex under compression load.

 

[Charlie Knighton]

Thanks for making that point John and Bill,

one goal i have for next year is to improve my xmas ornaments, my hollowing is ok but my icicles leave a lot to be desired, maybe a revolving cup center or system would be more of what i need

come to think about it i believe my jet live center has a cup center in it that i have not use

 

[Matthew Clarke]

Regarding Bill's point about using the steb center when turning a thin spindle, on the headstock side of the lathe, it might be better to use a chuck with the smallest set of jaws (e.g. Oneway chuck with the #! jaws) or a collet chuck together with your revolving center on the tailstock side. However, if the spindle is thin enough, even that revolving center may have to be removed.

When turning a finial, Cindy Drozda goes further and suggests that there be nothing holding the spindle on the tailstock side, just to avoid that harmonic vibration. I've tried it and my finials are much thinner. More important, my tool work has improved.

Whenever he turns a really thin spindle (trembleur), Jean Francios Escoulen (I hope I spelled his name correctly) supports the tailstock end of the piece in a string steady. Again, he does this to avoid the harmonic vibration introduced by pressing in on either end of the spindle. Long story short, the steb center (a terrific tool) just doesn't seem to be appropriate for use, whenever you want to turn a thin spindle. I hope that helps.

Matt

 

[Steve Worcester]

Hi Steve........I've used my Sorby revolving stebcenter on all the woods you mentioned, and quite a few others to include soft punky stuff, without it ever slipping, or stripping on me. I am assuming you are speaking about the steb teeth losing their grip and spinning on the wood.......right? (Sort of like what Waltben describes, but in a revolving center?) Are you speaking about a "strip" from usual procedures, ie "normal" use......or......that which might result from a catch?

Sorry. I was referring to the drive centers (dead, not live)

 

[hockenbery]

I like using an old cup dead center to drive small spindles for Christmas ornament balls and finials

two reasons
1. I think the rigid center point gives me a more positive centering.
I feel like I get a tiny bit of slide with the retracting point unless I make a little mark with a scratch awl.
2. When I'm read to put the pieces in a chuck the chuck screws on right over the cup center.

I don't have a problem with work slipping even with aggressive cuts.

Stebs centers are great. Sherry owns a couple. I just don't use them often.

Happy Turning,
Al

 

[Vernon Oberle]

oneway cup center

One thing that you can do on the Oneway safety drivers is to lock the center pin back to where only the tip is showing which takes the spring out of play. I got this tip from Alan Lacer's demo. I like the Oneway because it is very versatile. I have a brand x like the steb center and it really chews up the back of a blank while the Oneway may slip if you get to aggressive but dosen't chew up the blank. I have held everything from larger blanks to small spindle stock.

Vernon

 

[Aaron G+11]

I enjoy both steb style drive and bearing centers. The old style drives are just fancy spade bits. They are great for boring holes in wood.

The only draw back for the steb bearing center is that it is not as robust for larger work, 12 inches and above bowls. At those larger sizes, a OneWay or OneWay knock off bearing center gives more stability.

Aaron

 

[Steve Worcester]

I have a brand x like the steb center and it really chews up the back of a blank while the Oneway may slip if you get to aggressive but dosen't chew up the blank. I have held everything from larger blanks to small spindle stock.

Vernon

Cindy Drozda has some real nice small point tips that fit in the Oneway/Powermatic/Jets large centers.

 

[Owen Lowe]

Cindy Drozda has some real nice small point tips that fit in the Oneway/Powermatic/Jets large centers.

The Oneway uses a hardware taper pin... I get taper pins at my local Ace Hardware, cut and shape them for only a buck or two.

 

[Odie]

I haven't logged on for a few days......thanks to all who have replied up to this point.

I can now see the concern you are having for long thin spindles.....thanks for pointing that out to me.

As usual, the responses on this forum have given me additional insight to one aspect of woodturning, as it applies to more than just my own needs.

Thank you

ooc