Adding a variable speed

[odie]

Are there any kits available to add a variable speed to an existing lathe motor?

I checked the on-line catalogue for CSusa, but it appears they don't have a kit. What they have are motors with a variable speed.....very expensive.

What I have now is the original 110v 1.5hp motor that was supplied with the lathe. I've had this lathe for about 15yrs, now.

Recommendations?

....odier

 

[john lucas]

There isn't any way I know of making a standard 110 AC motor variable speed other than adding a Reeves drive pulley system.
The variable speed systems offered on the market are DC which requires a DC motor and speed controller or 3phase AC motor with Variable Frequency Drive.

 

[Steve Worcester]

I know of no way to add it do an existing 110V motor, on a lathe.

You would have to do a retro fit (forklift upgrade) and replace the motor with a 220V or DC motor. It is definately do-able though. How much HP do you want?

 

[rbabbittjr]

If you are willing another choice other than CS would be to buy a used motor and controller on ebay. I did that with my latest Vicmarc mini. DC motor and Minarik controller for about half price.

 

[odie]

OK, thanks gentlemen....

I think, for the time being, I'll just have to be satisfied with changing pulleys. A variable speed is something I'll eventually get, but I just don't want to spend the money right now.

ebay is a good alternative.....I'll keep an eye out.

....odie

 

[Jake Debski]

OK, thanks gentlemen....

I think, for the time being, I'll just have to be satisfied with changing pulleys. A variable speed is something I'll eventually get, but I just don't want to spend the money right now.

ebay is a good alternative.....I'll keep an eye out.

....odie

Odie, Dell Stubbs has a bowlturning video still being sold(borrowed is better) in this video he is using an old lathe that he rigged to be kinda variable. That is it's variable if you can tap dance and do slight of hand at the same time. At least it's affordable, not pretty but affordable.

 

[odie]

Odie, Dell Stubbs has a bowlturning video still being sold(borrowed is better) in this video he is using an old lathe that he rigged to be kinda variable. That is it's variable if you can tap dance and do slight of hand at the same time. At least it's affordable, not pretty but affordable.

Hi Jake..... Yep, I've seen that Del Stubbs video. I thought the foot board was only a start/stop affair, not variable. Thanks for the tip.

....odie

 

[Bill Boehme]

There are inverters that can be used with single-phase fractional horsepower AC induction motors, but it would not be satisfactory for use on any kind of machine tool like a lathe. They are intended only for use on such things as HVAC blower motors where the starting and low speed torque requirement is essentially zero and normal torque is only needed at full speed. This, obviously, does not meet the needs of any machine tool. As John Lucas said, you would need either a DC motor and drive or a three-phase AC motor designed for variable speed duty along with a suitable inverter or feedback control driver system.

Bill

 

[MichaelMouse]

For the lathe pictured in your shop photos you can do a simple mechanical change to get lower speeds. Shaft for your lower cone pulley is driven by a pulley rather than directly by the motor. That would get you lower speeds, though isn't yours capable of <400 already?

Variable doesn't mean an awful lot going up, only going down. The tool will shave the wood at zero revs, and the fpm vary from rim to button anyway, so they're really not that important. Keeping it below stutter speed is. How far below matters to some people I guess. Those who are in a hurry can crank until just below resonance and then cut faster. Don't know it means more than a couple minutes per piece, truth to tell.

 

[Jake Debski]

Odie,

Just went to your shop pics. Sorry for the off topic here, but take good care of that Delta Table saw. Unless I'm mistaken it is an old tilting table version. They are highly prized by the local Amish community. That saw is ideal for use powered by a jack-shaft.

 

[odie]

Odie,

Just went to your shop pics. Sorry for the off topic here, but take good care of that Delta Table saw. Unless I'm mistaken it is an old tilting table version. They are highly prized by the local Amish community. That saw is ideal for use powered by a jack-shaft.

Jake.....

Well, yes, it is a tilting table Delta.

I don't know for sure, but I've always assumed it was originally made in the 1940s or early 1950s. Anyway, I purchased it around 1972 at a garage sale along with several other tools. Can't remember exactly what I paid for it......but, it was cheap! I've added a new motor, wooden base surface, side extensions, Biesemeyer fence. The perforated angle iron base came with it, but, I pretty much rebuilt it from the ground up!

Now, if one of the Amish elders wanted it, I might be willing to trade for a new quality table saw! It would have to be a very good deal, though, because I really like this old Delta!

....odie

 

[odie]

For the lathe pictured in your shop photos you can do a simple mechanical change to get lower speeds. Shaft for your lower cone pulley is driven by a pulley rather than directly by the motor. That would get you lower speeds, though isn't yours capable of <400 already?

Variable doesn't mean an awful lot going up, only going down. The tool will shave the wood at zero revs, and the fpm vary from rim to button anyway, so they're really not that important. Keeping it below stutter speed is. How far below matters to some people I guess. Those who are in a hurry can crank until just below resonance and then cut faster. Don't know it means more than a couple minutes per piece, truth to tell.

Yep, under 400rpm, that's right Michael.....

If you go by the specs, the available speeds are 370, 650, 1200, 2000, 2700. I seldom do spindle work, so the 2000 and 2700 speeds are not used very much. I usually keep speeds up as fast as possible until I'm nearing final thickness.....then use the 370 for most final cuts and sanding. This isn't a hard rule, because as you know, some wood species, sizes and shapes cut better than others at faster speeds. I do get vibration at the initial higher speeds, but as long as there is no " tool chatter", I live with it for the sake of speed.

Changing pulley speed usually takes me less than a minute......but a speed dial would certainly be more convenient! I've got too many things on the "want list" to worry about it right now! (You know how that goes! )

I'm not sure what you mean, but the lower pulley is on the motor shaft, and the motor tilts on a hinged mount.

....odie

 

[whitefence]

I have a Delta tilting saw just like that one. It was purchased new in 1961.

Stan

 

[odie]

I have a Delta tilting saw just like that one. It was purchased new in 1961.

Stan

Here's an ad for Delta table saws from 1956. Looks like the tilting table has already been replaced with the tilting arbor. I suspect your tilting table Delta saw is older than you think !!!!!

....odie

click

 

[MichaelMouse]

I'm not sure what you mean, but the lower pulley is on the motor shaft, and the motor tilts on a hinged mount.

....odie

Jackshaft or countershaft arrangement. http://www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/page3.html In your case the motor mount plate is increased in size to allow a secondary shaft which is powered by a 2 1/2" pulley driven by the motor with a 1 1/4" providing a speed reduction of 1/2 to all the others on the step pulleys. It sounds like you're running you speed opposite what I do, where the lowest is used for out-of-balance pieces. Beats Newton and his mass times velocity squared. I rough at 360 and finish at 680 unless things are too unbalanced by design.

Don't miss variable speed at all. I can sharpen and increase the bite if I'm in a hurry.

 

[odie]

I've been haveing a bit of fun while the Danish oil finish is drying on my latest bowl.

I found this on the net, a Delta publication from 1950:

My Delta table saw is very close to this one. When I bought mine at a garage sale about 1972, it had the look of being old.....even for back then. Seems to me, the owner was a retired man who didn't use it anymore.

I wish I could find better pictures of vintage Delta saws.....but that's the best I could come up with at this time.

Otis of Cologne

 

[odie]

Jackshaft or countershaft arrangement. http://www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/page3.html In your case the motor mount plate is increased in size to allow a secondary shaft which is powered by a 2 1/2" pulley driven by the motor with a 1 1/4" providing a speed reduction of 1/2 to all the others on the step pulleys. It sounds like you're running you speed opposite what I do, where the lowest is used for out-of-balance pieces. Beats Newton and his mass times velocity squared. I rough at 360 and finish at 680 unless things are too unbalanced by design.

Don't miss variable speed at all. I can sharpen and increase the bite if I'm in a hurry.

Nope, not anything like that Michael.....

The lower step pulley is directly mounted to the motor shaft itself. The hinged motor mount provides the slack necessary for changing speeds.

Great old photos you found!

Some pieces are final turned at higher speeds than others. It all depends on how the tool and lathe is responding.....but, generally, I get the best final cut at the slower speeds......especially when doing the interiors of bowls that have a thin wall that slopes from smaller diameter at the rim, to a larger diameter near the base.....exactly opposite of what gives a lathe tool the best cutting performance. For the shapes I pursue (mostly thin, inward sloping walls), too high a speed will result in excess vibration and tool chatter.....it is necessary that I reduce speed in order to compensate.

....odie

 

[Ron Williams]

AC motor/inverter package

I put a new 3-phase motor and an inverter on my Nova 3000. I bought the motor locally, but I got the inverter from Dealer's Electric in NY. Their website (http://www.dealerselectric.com/) shows several combined packages - motor and inverter together - for less than $500. I have no connection with the firm except as a satisfied customer - they were knowledgeable and friendly, and my inverter's been working great for nearly 8 years.

Ron Williams
MinnDak Woodturners
Moorhead, MN

 

[intakexhaust]

Just some thoughts and lot's to cover on this topic with much depending on what you have and want.

Some examples: If you have an AC fractional low h.p. 115v motor, I've seen a variac simply plugged in. I'm not so convinced on doing it for various reasons but might be a perfect solution for a mini or pen lathe.

Next, there are AC motors with brushes and you can purchase a simple rheostat and go that route. If you have an AC motor like this, all you need is the $25 rheostat however... the key words are 'having brushes' and really should state 'must have'. Staying with the electric topic, there are now some finding treadmill motors with nice electronic controllers offering plenty of torque and constant duty rated that work nicely. Quite often those treadmills are found having little use and simply sold for next to nothing or waiting for the dumpster. Again, it all depends if your up to the task of some bracketry, wiring mods etc. If your motor is DC and whatever phase, all sorts of great and affordable ways are available.

Lastly, mechanical means such as mentioned earlier - jackshafts, variable pulleys (what I have) have been done. Probably the lowest cost or similiar to what you currently have is just add more pulleys with different diameters. Larger pulleys on the headstock really can slow them down or a little one gets it spinning. cheers