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Advice on full lathe brand

Odie

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I've been turning full time on my original Australian Woodfast lathe for 31 years now, and if I had a magic wand, the one and only thing I'd change is to add a rotating headstock. Everything that moves on my lathe has been upgraded and replaced over the years.....a great lathe, even if it were available today.

Someday, I'll buy another lathe, but it will have a rotating headstock.....no compromise on that. Unfortunately, I'm not aware of a single lathe with a rotating headstock that doesn't have some feature that I can't live with.......so, I'll keep using the old Woodfast, until that time.

I would prefer cast iron, and over 500 lbs.....the heavier, the better. 20" swing would be about perfect.

Sorry Rachel.....guess I'm not much help in zeroing in on your perfect lathe..... :(

I'm sure others will chime in..... :)

-----odie-----
 
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Robust Sweet 16. I have one and it is a beast. Quality and service is second to none. Best of all it is American made!

Might be out of your price range though...

Used Vicmarc like Guy said or a Oneway would also service you well long term...
 
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I'm in the same boat - want to upgrade, eventually I will have the moolah to do so, but my budget is even slimmer, so I have bounced back and forth between several , the only one that comes closest to my "last lathe" is the Jet JWL-1840 (Or, the 1640, I'll never turn much bigger than 12-14 inch bowl.... but I wanted the 220v so 1840 it is) If my budget would have permitted I'd have gone to the 3520C, or Harvey T-60 , but those are just a little too out of my reach.. However, if I ever win the lottery (Ha Ha, Yeah RIght) It'll be a Robust AB every time (Or maybe even a OneWay)

I decided on the 1840 because I'm not exclusively into bowl turning, I enjoyed spindle turning and want the capacity to turn 36" plus spindles so as nice as the PM2014 , or Harvey T-40 might be (Even though you can get extensions for them) I'll go with the Jet..
 
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Rachel,
At that price range, you won't find a bad lathe. They differ in lots of little ways and only you know what little ways are important to you and your idiosyncrasies. Try to turn on as many different ones as you can talk someone into letting you use, and then go on a hunt. You might find the perfect lathe, that you thought was too expensive, available used in the next state over. Or you may find that a $3000 new lathe is exactly what you want. At the very least, you should take a weekday drive over to Barneveld and see what Brent and Robust have to play with.
 
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I've been turning full time on my original Australian Woodfast lathe for 31 years now, and if I had a magic wand, the one and only thing I'd change is to add a rotating headstock. Everything that moves on my lathe has been upgraded and replaced over the years.....a great lathe, even if it were available today.

Someday, I'll buy another lathe, but it will have a rotating headstock.....no compromise on that. Unfortunately, I'm not aware of a single lathe with a rotating headstock that doesn't have some feature that I can't live with.......so, I'll keep using the old Woodfast, until that time.

I would prefer cast iron, and over 500 lbs.....the heavier, the better. 20" swing would be about perfect.

Sorry Rachel.....guess I'm not much help in zeroing in on your perfect lathe..... :(

I'm sure others will chime in..... :)

-----odie-----
Always appreciate your replies thought Odie
 
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It depends what features you are looking for. I have a lot of neck and spine problems. A lathe with a pivoting headstock is a must for me. I also wanted a lathe with a remote pendant so I could keep the controls with me and not have to reach around a large spinning bowl. I bought the Record Power Envoy and it has been the perfect lathe for me. It will turn 16” over the bed and 39“ outboard. It cost around $2,000. The also make the Regent which is 18” over the bed and 39” outboard for around $2,500.
F0BE09F2-2D16-4028-84ED-F36718602871.jpegB965DB1C-7FCD-42C2-8612-899069861D93.jpeg8F089590-23AB-451A-95C1-2178C7539A67.jpeg
 
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Rachel,
At that price range, you won't find a bad lathe. They differ in lots of little ways and only you know what little ways are important to you and your idiosyncrasies. Try to turn on as many different ones as you can talk someone into letting you use, and then go on a hunt. You might find the perfect lathe, that you thought was too expensive, available used in the next state over. Or you may find that a $3000 new lathe is exactly what you want. At the very least, you should take a weekday drive over to Barneveld and see what Brent and Robust have to play with.
Wait…what? Robust is manufactured here in Wisconsin….head slap
 
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It depends what features you are looking for. I have a lot of neck and spine problems. A lathe with a pivoting headstock is a must for me. I also wanted a lathe with a remote pendant so I could keep the controls with me and not have to reach around a large spinning bowl. I bought the Record Power Envoy and it has been the perfect lathe for me. It will turn 16” over the bed and 39“ outboard. It cost around $2,000. The also make the Regent which is 18” over the bed and 39” outboard for around $2,500.
View attachment 52044View attachment 52045View attachment 52046
Never heard of the brand but will research
 
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I have a pivoting headstock lathe and no plan to acquire a lathe without that feature, unless I needed one for very large work. If one doesnt turn bowls it is not a needed feature. Mine is a Nova Galaxi 16x44, with Nova outrigger. The advantages to me of this lathe over the Record Power lathes is a min speed of 100 rpm vs 250, and better torque at low rpm of the DVR motor.

The Nebula (notNeptune) is Nova’s latest full size lathe, 18” swing. It has some additional features you may appreciate, but…Im not sure an outrigger is available - critical for a pivot HS.
 
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The Nova Neptune is a 15" Midi lathe with a 1.5HP DVR motor. What Doug meant I'm sure is the Nova Nebula. I have the Neptune on order and is supposed to be here next month. It has a 360° pivot and a sliding head. It is capable of using 220V for a boost in HP and with available outrigger it will turn 20". Speeds of 100 to 3500 RPM with a twist of the dial, Programmable favorite speeds and Electronic braking. Can't wait to put this through the hoops.
 
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I have a pivoting headstock lathe and no plan to acquire a lathe without that feature, unless I needed one for very large work. If one doesnt turn bowls it is not a needed feature. Mine is a Nova Galaxi 16x44, with Nova outrigger. The advantages to me of this lathe over the Record Power lathes is a min speed of 100 rpm vs 250, and better torque at low rpm of the DVR motor.

The Neptune is Nova’s latest full size lathe, 18” swing. It has some additional features you may appreciate, but…Im not sure an outrigger is available - critical for a pivot HS.
I was looking at the Nova lathes when I was looking. They looked like a good lathe. The one feature I was looking for that they didn’t have was the remote pendant. I had a concern about 250 being the low speed. It is actually closer to 200 on mine and I have never had a problem or needed to go slower. I have put some pretty good size logs on it and never had a speed or lack of torque problem. There are a lot of very good lathes out there. Just have to figure out what the important features are to you. This is one of the reasons I wanted the remote pendant. At 4 minutes you can see it come apart. It came apart as soon as he hit the stop button. He was very lucky.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCK2v-JF13k
 
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WOW! thanks for that video Rusty! What a great argument for a remote pendant. I wonder what his turning speed was. Quite terrifying.
 
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I turn on a 1640 at a seniors' woodworking shop here in Stratford Onatrio, home of Oneway. It is an awesome machine. Maybe a bit 'basic' or 'plain' in that is doesn't have some electronic doodads that people might like, but strong in so many ways.
 
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There are a lot of very good lathes out there. Just have to figure out what the important features are to you.

@Rachel Aberle , This. It all depends on what and how you turn now, and plan to do in the future.

If a list of lathe brands available in the US would be helpful, that list would include: Robust, Oneway, Vicmarc, Nova, Jet Powematic, Laguna, Grizzly, and Harvey.
 

Odie

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I turn on a 1640 at a seniors' woodworking shop here in Stratford Onatrio, home of Oneway. It is an awesome machine. Maybe a bit 'basic' or 'plain' in that is doesn't have some electronic doodads that people might like, but strong in so many ways.

The Oneway lathe is a very well engineered and manufactured machine. If it had a rotating headstock, or even a sliding headstock, they would be much more interesting.

-----odie-----
 
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Your typical wood lathe will require an equal amount of investment in accessories if you move into a different spindle thread pitch.
If you can find a package deal on a quality used machine you will be money ahead. You can always make trades on the items you get
in a package deal later on to end up with the tools and accessories you want or need. Plenty of older boomers heading to the
retirement homes with all of their wood working tools going to estate sales and auctions these days.
 
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The Nova Neptune is a 15" Midi lathe with a 1.5HP DVR motor. What Doug meant I'm sure is the Nova Nebula. I have the Neptune on order and is supposed to be here next month. It has a 360° pivot and a sliding head. It is capable of using 220V for a boost in HP and with available outrigger it will turn 20". Speeds of 100 to 3500 RPM with a twist of the dial, Programmable favorite speeds and Electronic braking. Can't wait to put this through the hoops.
I didn’t even know the Nebula existed..no pulley system sounds interesting
 
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The Oneway lathe is a very well engineered and manufactured machine. If it had a rotating headstock, or even a sliding headstock, they would be much more interesting.

-----odie-----
They are one of the best priced big lathes here in canada. Would have been my choice but I (like you) don't have the space for a long bed plus 24" outboard extension.
Gart
 
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Well, one question to ask is long bed lathe or short bed lathe. Long bed lathes are great for spindles, but not so good for bowls. The reason being that for turning a lot of bowls, you have to lean over, or extend your arms out away from your body, Stuart Batty way. For short bed lathes, you have choices of pivoting and/or sliding headstocks, both of which work and allow you to stand up straight which is a huge back saver. I would want 2 hp and 220 volt for lots of bowl turning, and 3 speed ranges are my preference. I believe the Oneway, and for sure the Vicmark are all 3 speed. According to Brent English, owner of Robust, the electronics are so good on modern motors that they could easily get away with one pulley. Stubborn old me would have to try it to see. The Nova DVR motors really surprised me with how much torque they have for what appears to be such a small motor, and they operate on 110. I didn't like their old lathes that had set speeds, and the ramp up/down was painfully slow for a production turner like me. I have had sliding headstock lathes since the first 3520 PM lathes came out. I would never go back, it really is that much of a back saver. That little Coronet lathe from Record appears to be really nice, but I have no experience with it. The set up for the banjo when the headstock is rotated 90 degrees looks to have addressed the issue of keeping the standard banjo useable in all positions. The first pivoting headstocks were pretty bad, but with time and experimenting, they seemed to have solved most issues.

There are claims that the sliding headstocks create vibration issues. Among the arguments are bounce from being in the middle of the lathe, and they just won't lock down as tight as a fixed headstock lathe. I think there could be a tiny bit of that applying, but think there are other issues that contribute to vibration issues. One is headstock design. Some thing that has become increasingly popular for reasons I don't understand, are 'extensions/bell housings' on the lathes to allow for 'access to the back side of the bowl'. I notices a big difference with vibration issues when demonstrating on the 3520B, after years of turning on the 3520A. That extension was the issue as far as I was concerned. The farther a piece mounts away from the headstock tower, the more vibration issues there will be. This is part of the reason steady rests are used on hollow forms. Another contributing issue is the pressure plate on the headstock. My American Beauty has a pressure plate that is the same size as the headstock base. Good idea. My 3520A had one that was about 4 by 6 inches long. Pretty good. A friend bought a Shop Fox, and they used the same pressure plate for the tailstock, banjo, and headstock. Very bad idea. My Vicmark has the spindle mount right on the headstock tower, and the mounting place where my chuck seats is about 1 3/4 inches closer than on my American Beauty. I consider that an advantage. One thing the AB can do that the Vic can't do is if the headstock spindle bearings need to be replaced, then the whole spindle mount can be removed rather than taking the whole headstock assembly off. Oneway, I am pretty sure is the same design. How often do you need to change your headstock bearings? I did change out the ones on my PM once. I turned a lot of bowls on it and I did not use the tailstock. If the tailstock is used, all vibration issues go away.

As for the exploding bowl up above, if you stop the video and enlarge it, at about 1:10, there are obvious cracks in it. I would never have put that piece on the lathe. I know better. As for a remote switch, I still keep mine on the headstock. Just where it always has been. If I need to stop the lathe in a hurry, I would have to switch the gouge from my right hand to my left and then reach across. The red bar on the Vicmark lathes makes for a nice emergency stop if you need one. A similar button like on the Saw Stop table saws could work well also.

robo hippy
 
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Well, one question to ask is long bed lathe or short bed lathe. Long bed lathes are great for spindles, but not so good for bowls. The reason being that for turning a lot of bowls, you have to lean over, or extend your arms out away from your body, Stuart Batty way. For short bed lathes, you have choices of pivoting and/or sliding headstocks, both of which work and allow you to stand up straight which is a huge back saver. I would want 2 hp and 220 volt for lots of bowl turning, and 3 speed ranges are my preference. I believe the Oneway, and for sure the Vicmark are all 3 speed. According to Brent English, owner of Robust, the electronics are so good on modern motors that they could easily get away with one pulley. Stubborn old me would have to try it to see. The Nova DVR motors really surprised me with how much torque they have for what appears to be such a small motor, and they operate on 110. I didn't like their old lathes that had set speeds, and the ramp up/down was painfully slow for a production turner like me. I have had sliding headstock lathes since the first 3520 PM lathes came out. I would never go back, it really is that much of a back saver. That little Coronet lathe from Record appears to be really nice, but I have no experience with it. The set up for the banjo when the headstock is rotated 90 degrees looks to have addressed the issue of keeping the standard banjo useable in all positions. The first pivoting headstocks were pretty bad, but with time and experimenting, they seemed to have solved most issues.

There are claims that the sliding headstocks create vibration issues. Among the arguments are bounce from being in the middle of the lathe, and they just won't lock down as tight as a fixed headstock lathe. I think there could be a tiny bit of that applying, but think there are other issues that contribute to vibration issues. One is headstock design. Some thing that has become increasingly popular for reasons I don't understand, are 'extensions/bell housings' on the lathes to allow for 'access to the back side of the bowl'. I notices a big difference with vibration issues when demonstrating on the 3520B, after years of turning on the 3520A. That extension was the issue as far as I was concerned. The farther a piece mounts away from the headstock tower, the more vibration issues there will be. This is part of the reason steady rests are used on hollow forms. Another contributing issue is the pressure plate on the headstock. My American Beauty has a pressure plate that is the same size as the headstock base. Good idea. My 3520A had one that was about 4 by 6 inches long. Pretty good. A friend bought a Shop Fox, and they used the same pressure plate for the tailstock, banjo, and headstock. Very bad idea. My Vicmark has the spindle mount right on the headstock tower, and the mounting place where my chuck seats is about 1 3/4 inches closer than on my American Beauty. I consider that an advantage. One thing the AB can do that the Vic can't do is if the headstock spindle bearings need to be replaced, then the whole spindle mount can be removed rather than taking the whole headstock assembly off. Oneway, I am pretty sure is the same design. How often do you need to change your headstock bearings? I did change out the ones on my PM once. I turned a lot of bowls on it and I did not use the tailstock. If the tailstock is used, all vibration issues go away.

As for the exploding bowl up above, if you stop the video and enlarge it, at about 1:10, there are obvious cracks in it. I would never have put that piece on the lathe. I know better. As for a remote switch, I still keep mine on the headstock. Just where it always has been. If I need to stop the lathe in a hurry, I would have to switch the gouge from my right hand to my left and then reach across. The red bar on the Vicmark lathes makes for a nice emergency stop if you need one. A similar button like on the Saw Stop table saws could work well also.

robo hippy
Lots to think about. I’ve turned a an instructors Powermatic and enjoyed working with it. The new Nova Nebula (watching a Spiracraft video on) looks very cool and it’s a better price point. Powermatic doesn’t have a headstock that swings out but honestly not sure how much I’d use since the headstock skids anyway.
 

hockenbery

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One way? Will check them out
One of the features of the oneways is adding an outboard.

a 17” outboard gives you a short-bed lathe or bowl lathe.
for those who know the “secret” of using the outboard - it is much faster to swing the control, flip the switch to reverse , and walk to the outboard To hollow a bowl - Than it is to reconfigure a sliding headstock or even pivot a pivoting headstock.

the1640 also has larger diameter options for the outboard.
the outboard makes it two lathe in one The long bed, and short bed.

I like the add on remote for this lathe and the pendant controls at eye level are hard to beat.
 
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I have a grizzly g0766 which is a 22x42” and I love it, yeah it’s not a powermatic or robust, but they’re less than half the price new at around $3300 shipped and I got mine used for around 2k. They come standard with a 3hp motor. Non rotating headstock, which I actually prefer simply because it is more precise in my opinion although it doesn’t make much of a difference, if you want to do more than 22” you can slide the headstock to the end and the floor becomes the limit.
 
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I am addicted to pivot HS lathes. The benefit of a well designed lathe AND outrigger, like the Nova Galaxi, when doing bowls, vs a sliding HS, is nothing to the right of the banjo - the TS, any tools or tool racks, etc - does not need to removed to hollow the bowl, and does not then need to be replaced to do the next bowl.

A bolt on outrigger is much better than one supported on the floor. When working outboard with an unbalanced piece, the tool rest (and thus the cutting edge) will move in unison with the lathe, allowing consistent cut depth, allowing getting a balanced blank faster.

for those who know the “secret” of using the outboard - it is much faster to swing the control, flip the switch to reverse , and walk to the outboard To hollow a bowl - Than it is to reconfigure a sliding headstock or even pivot a pivoting headstock.

I have to “throw the gauntlet down” (challenge) this statement. I haven’t timed myself, but probably less than 20 sec to grab the bar, loosen the HS, pivot it, lock it down, replace the bar. No removal of the chuck or piece to move to the outboard position, where a chuck needs mounted, preferably with the same jaws for the same grip. There are other scenarios but I think you get the picture.

Good video on the exploding bowl - the reason I dont use recesses - I do turn “questionable” wood, and tenons are less likely to fail in such dramatic fashion.
 
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I have never been in favour of loose headstocks, even if they do lock down well, two pieces can and will move against each other, steel flexes and stretch as I have experienced in another life, as for turnings flying apart, it is a result of not checking wood carefully before even cutting the blank and starting to turn.

This particular one did have quite an easy noticeable one on one side and then continue all across the piece, and IMO if that split was outside the recess it would have come apart just the same.

The video shows right away when he opens the two halves, at the 10-11 sec and later the dark wood of the split, and again look at the 55 sec mark, you can see the split from the right hand side at about 2.30 clock wise the split going well past the middle of the blank and would say even farther, I have seen turners just take a casual look and strart to turn, it was the split that caused the breakup, and not use of a recess.

I have turned now for about 64 years, and from the time after when the wood chucks did come out, I have basically used the recess, very seldom a tenon, and turned a lot of bowls, from very small to very large.

I would say stay safe and make sure you check that chunk of wood over carefully, believe it or not, I have never had a bowl fly apart on me, never happened.

Also for turning bowls or HF on the outboard side of a lathe, it can't be beat, for convenience and safety.
 
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I am addicted to pivot HS lathes. The benefit of a well designed lathe AND outrigger, like the Nova Galaxi, when doing bowls, vs a sliding HS, is nothing to the right of the banjo - the TS, any tools or tool racks, etc - does not need to removed to hollow the bowl, and does not then need to be replaced to do the next bowl.

A bolt on outrigger is much better than one supported on the floor. When working outboard with an unbalanced piece, the tool rest (and thus the cutting edge) will move in unison with the lathe, allowing consistent cut depth, allowing getting a balanced blank faster.



I have to “throw the gauntlet down” (challenge) this statement. I haven’t timed myself, but probably less than 20 sec to grab the bar, loosen the HS, pivot it, lock it down, replace the bar. No removal of the chuck or piece to move to the outboard position, where a chuck needs mounted, preferably with the same jaws for the same grip. There are other scenarios but I think you get the picture.

Good video on the exploding bowl - the reason I dont use recesses - I do turn “questionable” wood, and tenons are less likely to fail in such dramatic fashion.
That is my experience too. It takes 20 seconds max to turn the headstock and move the tool rest where you need it.
 
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I would also give a vote to the Grizzly G0766. I've had mine 5+ years. Not one issue, and I have no complaints about anything. It's by far the most lathe for the money. All the early design issues people griped about have been fixed on the newer models. Alternatively, the Harvey T-60 is in your price range and looks to be a very nice lathe.
 
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I own a Oneway 2436 lathe. Have had it for 20+ years. Only one minor problem in that time period.
I would look around for a used Oneway 2436 lathe. Check with the local clubs. Check Craigslist. Put the word out that you are looking for one. Be patient. But, I bet ones becomes available in less than a year. Check the AAW for sale list. I think there is a wanted to by area also. Mostly clubs.
 
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I should have added......get your money ready......put it in a safe spot. When it comes to purchasing a used lathe......a good deal comes along and you may not have time to go find the money somewhere.
So.....be ready to jump.
 
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The best advice I got when looking for my ‘last’ lathe several years ago still applies - spend as much time on the lathes on your list of possibilities as you can. If there’s a club handy, see if you can inspect or actually use a few. If you can get a hold of a manufacturers rep, see if they’ll put you in contact with a local or close user. I wound up spending nearly a year researching lathes, meeting interesting turners and getting time in some of their shops. Learned a lot and met some friends along the way. And I did in fact wind up with my ‘last’ lathe. After nearly 12 years I still get a little smile every time I go into the shop to turn.
 
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I’m currently working with midi nova lathe which has served me well but I find the 3/4 HP to be frustrating at times.

Any advice on a full lathe model under $5,000 you’d recommend?
I use a Laguna 1836. It's over 3 years old now and I've had zero issues with it. It came from the scratch and dent department. It had been used for a weekend at a trade show, nothing actually scratched or broken. It cost me $240020220918_192658.jpg with extension bed and shipping.
 
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