After 33 years with my Woodfast lathe, a new lathe is now on the way!

[John K Jordan]

StaStrStu Articulating Led Work Light, 18W Machine Lights, 1800 Lumens Flexible Wood Lathe Light Drill Press Lighting 110-220v - Amazon.com

StaStrStu Articulating Led Work Light, 18W Machine Lights, 1800 Lumens Flexible Wood Lathe Light Drill Press Lighting 110-220v - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Thanks. Some questions:

• The advertisement says it is dimmable. Is it? How? I see no control. It looks like AC power cord but min voltage is stated to be 110v, possibly eliminating the use of something like a router speed control.
• Is there enough friction in the pivots to allow adjusting the head position and keep it from moving or sagging?
• Is there an adjustment on the joints to lock in an position? One reviewer mentioned the need for a tools, apparently to to tighten the individual arms.
• Is the base strong? A reviewer wrote: "Wish the base was not plastic"

JKJ

 

[Doug Machin]

- No dimming, unless they're talking about using an LED compatible dimming light switch.
- Yes, there is enough friction to keep the light stable.
- Pivots are all controlled by a 5mm allen wrench. I keep the joints very tight, but I bring the light to bear on the inside of a bowl with a minor yank. Occasionally, I'll re-tighten, but it does the job well. I don't move the light a lot, it's aimed at the inside of a bowl. I keep a full set of allen wrenches nearby, its seems I use them all the time.
- Base is strong enough to hang sideways on the wall (zoom in on photo, it's screwed to the corner of the pegboard frame)

 

[Odie]

I already have a 6" faceplate, and hardly use any of my faceplates anyway. I am a user of screw center faceplates for nearly all my work. This Vicmarc faceplate is very well made but I don't need it.

It dawned on me that a big magnet could be attached to this Vicmarc faceplate, and it would essentially double/triple the level space on the headstock that could be used for magnetic lamps, my vibrometer, and a few other things that have magnetic bases.

This ought to do for now.......


=o=

 

[Mick Fagan]

You haven't asked for information on this, but Vicmarc do have their outboard mechanism, which many people dismiss because of the very long pole. These appear to be either an earlier version of what is available today, or possibly modified. They work extremely well and are as rigid as anything.

My turning club has three VL175SH units, each of which is fitted with a Vicmarc outboard attachment. These are all used without the centre pole and were kitted out before my time. These lathes are all around 20+ years old and get used six days a week; more or less.

Just some food for thought.

 

[Odie]

My turning club has three VL175SH units

Thanks for the info, Mick.....

It appears as though the VL240 isn't the first attempt Vicmarc had with a swivel headstock lathe.

This, I was unaware of.

=o=

 

[Odie]

There was probably a hundred little details that I needed to do changing over to a different lathe.

I think I'm down to the last of it, and am ready to start turnin'!....as soon as I get my new lighting.

This little gadget needed another center line location of the Vicmarc lathe. The yellow strip beneath it is the centerline of my old Woodfast lathe.

On a few occasions, I need an accurate measurement of the tool rest height.....and, this little gadget is a quick reference point.


My two new Super Nova lights should be here today.....hopefully!

=o=

 

[hughie]

Note: I put out an enquiry about current production lights in another thread in the "newbie" forum, but not getting much response there.

These are some that I'm considering:

Super Nova LED Machine Lamp + 120 Kg Pull Magnetic BaseDefault Title

Energy efficient, industrial strength lighting provides bright illumination for up to 50,000 hours. With features like switchable magnetic bases, 9' power cords, and 30" flexible necks that stay put without sagging, these LED lamps are ideal for a wide range of industrial applications, including...

woodturnerswonders.com

Quasar LED Machine Lamp + 120 Kg Pull Magnetic BaseDefault Title

According to our internet research "Quasars are among the brightest, oldest, and most powerful objects in the universe. Powered by massive black holes at the center of most known galaxies, quasars can emit enormous amounts of energy, up to a thousand times the total output of the hundreds of...

woodturnerswonders.com

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S46PWSH?ie=UTF8&th=1

(Looking for a little feedback and comments on lathe lighting.....thanks.)

=o=

Odie. I have a mag base light from Ikea, OK I did a mod on the magnets and now have Neodymium magnets. Above the bed I have 4' LED and at the end of that I have a 1200 LED spot angled forward. Plus a magnetic LED that goes on the toolrest, sorta like Cindy Drozda, its diy as I had the parts on hand

 

[Odie]

its diy as I had the parts on hand

Hey DIY is a great way to express your creativity.....some would say it's the best way to get the ol' mental gears turnin'!

Some turners prefer to just throw money at a situation.....and their solutions look similar to other turners who throw money at the whole learning process.

=o=

 

[Gord Cameron]

Odie, I hope you enjoy your VL240 as much as I do mine. A small tip that might be useful for rotating the head: I made a sort of wrench out of plywood that goes around the head (see pic). I put (fine) Sharpie marks at the two positions and I find that with the wrench, I can rotate the head more precisely to the exact spot where the locking pin drops in.

BTW, re Mick's post about the outboard attachment, I have it on my VL240 and it is great: massive, stable and flexible to use.

 

[John K Jordan]

Some turners prefer to just throw money at a situation.....and their solutions look similar to other turners who throw money at the whole learning process

I want a plaque with that engraved on it. But with the word "turners" changed to "people" in both places.

JKJ

 

[Odie]

Odie, I hope you enjoy your VL240 as much as I do mine. A small tip that might be useful for rotating the head: I made a sort of wrench out of plywood that goes around the head (see pic). I put (fine) Sharpie marks at the two positions and I find that with the wrench, I can rotate the head more precisely to the exact spot where the locking pin drops in.

BTW, re Mick's post about the outboard attachment, I have it on my VL240 and it is great: massive, stable and flexible to use.

Thanks Gord.......

That looks like a great idea you have there! Tell me though.......does the headstock get more difficult to rotate after the passage of time? I ask because my headstock seems pretty easy to move without any special tool to make it easier.

Also, I probably won't be getting the outboard attachment for my Vicmarc 240 because the location in the shop corner would be a bit awkward. Besides, a 19" swing over the bedways is plenty large enough, considering the wood that is available to me.

=o=

 

[Steve Tiedman]

odie, this stuff goes around $30ish per can, but a dry film moly spray such as this, judiciously applied to the rotational contact patch every once in a blue moon should keep that headstock rotating nicely for decades to come. May even reduce the wear of the iron surfaces themselves. Molybdenum is a preferred lube for high shear applications, such as gear teeth, roller chains, and other high pressure metal-on-metal surface contacts that can break down the structure of other lubricants.
https://www.crcindustries.com/dry-moly-lube-11-wt-oz/ Grainger has it for about $28, Napa about $35. I recall similar products having a dark gray color to it, and you want to clean away any overspray to keep it off other surfaces where you don't want it. Like wood.

Edit- I would not use this stuff for the tailstock and tool rest due to the dark moly film it would leave on those surfaces, and other things.

 

[Neil S]

It appears as though the VL240 isn't the first attempt Vicmarc had with a swivel headstock lathe.

This, I was unaware of.

=o=

The VL175 was a very nice swivel head lathe other than its outboard turning rig with the big heavy duty and hard to move post that went down to the floor. The photos of the outboard rig that Mick has posted looks like a much better design, but that version was never offered here. Because of that issue with the outboard turning rig on the VL175 I stayed with my Woodfast C1000X swivel head.

I have had outboard turning platforms and tool posts on my lathes for over 50yrs and I much prefer to turn that way, as does my aging back nowadays.

I expect that you and your back will really enjoy your new swivel head lathe, Odie.

 

[Neil S]

Hi Odie, those are for setting up the inverter ...... My friendly advice is to leave those buttons alone. About a year ago, I started placing a sticker on our lathes to tell the owner to leave these buttons alone. It reduced our service calls from well meaning new owners

Having had to do some inverter programming recently I would second that advice from Brent. Not something you would want to get into idly (or accidentally), if woodturning is what you want to be doing, and best avoided unless you really have to go there.

 

[Odie]

Having had to do some inverter programming recently I would second that advice from Brent. Not something you would want to get into idly (or accidentally), if woodturning is what you want to be doing, and best avoided unless you really have to go there.

I'll consider myself lucky because like an idiot, I did punch some buttons on my inverter....

=o=

 

[hughie]

I'll consider myself lucky because like an idiot, I did punch some buttons on my inverter....

=o=

Been there

 

[John K Jordan]

Having had to do some inverter programming recently I would second that advice from Brent. Not something you would want to get into idly (or accidentally), if woodturning is what you want to be doing, and best avoided unless you really have to go there.

One suggestion for those who haven't done so already: Step through the parameters on the VFD and make a list of all those different from the defaults in the manual.

Do his while the VFD is working - too late after it dies!

You can sometimes find the parameters online for particular lathe but if not, it's far easier to set up a new VFD with the old parameter list in hand

This can help even if the new VFD is a different brand and uses different names and options for the parameters. When replacing one on a Jet 1642 with suggestions from Harvey Meyer I found a generic VFD FAR cheaper than replairing or replacing the OEM Delta S1. Deciphering and comparing the parameters and programming was relatively easy and everything worked the first time.

JKJ

 

[Mick Fagan]

The VL175 was a very nice swivel head lathe other than its outboard turning rig with the big heavy duty and hard to move post that went down to the floor. The photos of the outboard rig that Mick has posted looks like a much better design, but that version was never offered here. Because of that issue with the outboard turning rig on the VL175 I stayed with my Woodfast C1000X swivel head.

Umm, Neil, I'm in Melbourne. Three of our five VL175SH units have this arrangement, and they are all around the 20 year mark in age. Now I don't know if these lathes came fitted with the outboard arrangement when new, but I've been a member for 10 to11 years and they didn't look like a new attachment back then.

The swivel heads on the five VL175SH lathes that we have, all swivel freely, and the swivel heads get used far more than I thought they would when I joined my turning club.

 

[Odie]

The swivel heads on the five VL175SH lathes that we have, all swivel freely, and the swivel heads get used far more than I thought they would

I suspect the same thing would be the case for us Americans.......if only we would/could embrace the concept of the swivel headstock lathe. The real beauty in the swiveling headstock, is you and your entire set-up doesn't have to move to the end of the lathe......that would be a real hassle for me to stop and move the set-up back and forth as I progress.....and, it would probably be the same for a few other turners, as well!

=o=

 

[Odie]

Here is a cost breakdown in USD for my new Vicmarc lathe:



I changed my mind about the offset tool rest, and instead added some shelf brackets and tailstock extension.

=o=

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

Thanks Gord.......

That looks like a great idea you have there! Tell me though.......does the headstock get more difficult to rotate after the passage of time? I ask because my headstock seems pretty easy to move without any special tool to make it easier.

Also, I probably won't be getting the outboard attachment for my Vicmarc 240 because the location in the shop corner would be a bit awkward. Besides, a 19" swing over the bedways is plenty large enough, considering the wood that is available to me.

=o=

I can only speak to my lathe, but I had to clean the ways under the headstock, as well as the bottom of the headstock. My headstock got to where it would barely move until I did that. Just the usual common sense, I reckon.

 

[Odie]

I can only speak to my lathe, but I had to clean the ways under the headstock, as well as the bottom of the headstock. My headstock got to where it would barely move until I did that. Just the usual common sense, I reckon.

Kent.....do you have a VL240 lathe?

I ask, because to my thinking, a headstock that both swivels and slides on the bedways would be subject to depositing dust/shavings inbetween the two mating surfaces. If the headstock only swivels, but doesn't slide, then I believe the chances of dust interfering with headstock adjustments would be very minimal over time.

I've only had my VL240 a very short time, so I'm assuming the above statement would be true......

=o=

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

Kent.....do you have a VL240 lathe?

I ask, because to my thinking, a headstock that both swivels and slides on the bedways would be subject to depositing dust/shavings inbetween the two mating surfaces. If the headstock only swivels, but doesn't slide, then I believe the chances of dust interfering with headstock adjustments would be very minimal over time.

I've only had my VL240 a very short time, so I'm assuming the above statement would be true......

=o=

I have a Rikon 1824, which only has a rotating headstock. When I rotate the headstock, I can see exposed parts of the ways. Those will catch sawdust and start to gum things up. You might have way less issue with that because you are always turning dry wood.

 

[Neil S]

Umm, Neil, I'm in Melbourne. Three of our five VL175SH units have this arrangement, and they are all around the 20 year mark in age. Now I don't know if these lathes came fitted with the outboard arrangement when new, but I've been a member for 10 to11 years and they didn't look like a new attachment back then.

The swivel heads on the five VL175SH lathes that we have, all swivel freely, and the swivel heads get used far more than I thought they would when I joined my turning club.

Apologies, Mick, for not picking up that you are a local...

My experience with the VM outboard rig is this one, which VM are still selling, that has a thick diameter heavy post that rests on the floor. I found them too heavy and cumbersome to move. OK for just the occasional larger piece turned outboard, but as I do all of my turning (well 99.5% of it) outboard that was a deal breaker for me.

https://www.vicmarc.com/product-page/outboard-turning-attachment

So, definitely not the same as the ones you have shown from your club, which I reckon is a much better design. I wonder if someone at your club made or adapted the VM ones you have on the VL175s?

 

[Odie]

I have a Rikon 1824, which only has a rotating headstock. When I rotate the headstock, I can see exposed parts of the ways. Those will catch sawdust and start to gum things up. You might have way less issue with that because you are always turning dry wood.

Not only that, but the junction between the headstock and the lower section of the lathe is only exposed by a seam.....no exposed surfaces at all.

Oh, BTW.......I turn plenty of very wet unseasoned (35% or more MC) wood blanks before they are processed through my seasoning process. It's true that I also turn many blanks that are KD as well. Some of my blanks have been air dried for a long time (sometimes for years) prior to my obtaining them, and are partially seasoned. I then take over and finish the seasoning process along with all the other raw unseasoned roughed bowls.

=o=

See here that there is only a seam all the way around, and not conducive to transferring residue between the mating surfaces. I'm pretty confident that the mating surfaces will stay clean and not be much of a problem......but, if not......I'll take care of whatever maintenance is called for when and if that time comes!

 

[Odie]

My lathe lights have arrived! WaHoo......!

Two Super Novas from Woodturner's Wonders, and a third multi LED lamp from Amazon. There is also an incandescent lamp and a 4' LED lamp above the lathe from when the Woodfast lathe was in this corner of my shop......so, I think I've got all the lighting I'm going to need......I think.....we'll see!

That "faceplate" magnet stand on top of the headstock appears to be working out perfectly! I currently have two magnetic lamps attached there......and, I think there is enough room for a third magnetic base, if needed.

At first, I noticed that the light just looks different. I am wondering if it will affect my ability to find scratches and other flaws in my bowls. That question has yet to be answered...



I had to make a pedestal for mounting one of the Super Nova lamps. Originally I thought I'd get away with just attaching it to the shelf on the back of the lathe.....but quickly found out that was too low.


=o=

 

[Odie]

Looks good!

Do they switch some things for the American market? The specs said it has a 30mm tool post was wondering if they put a one inch in for us or a bushing has to be used?

I apologize Sam......just now seeing this post from a few days ago.

They supply a sleeve adaptor to use with 1" posts.

I'd rather they just made the banjo adapted to 1" posts.....but, the sleeve seems to be working pretty good......(so far!)

=o=

 

[Odie]

I feel a detailed YouTube review video coming on with a review of the VL240. If you do a bang up job, Vicmarc might even send you a chuck just to say thanks.

Sorry guys......but, I'm not likely to do a video review.

This thread will probably be the extent of my review.....(along with random comments in the future.)

Very interested in your observations as you begin to “drive” your new lathe @Odie.

I'm going to try and make this thread detailed enough that other interested turners will get some applicable information about the VL240.

=o=

 

[Odie]

I had a tangled web of wires in the back of the old lathe.....that's changed for the better!

=o=

 

[Odie]

OK....now I have a couple of complaints about my new Vicmarc VL240 lathe...

The flange of the headstock sticks out far enough that it interferes with the banjo when I'm working in close to the wasteblock. I scratched my head for awhile.....until the light above my head switched on!

I'm very lucky to have purchased this offset tool rest attachment.....it's perfect for this need. I bought it several years ago from Brent at Robust. It's very well made....very strong!......and, it allows me to work in close to the wasteblock.

I also have one of Brent's Sweet 16 dogleg banjos, and was very impressed with the quality of that item, too. His "pinch" type method of securing the toolrest is far superior to the Vicmarc method of a simple grub screw. Everything Brent makes is top quality!

=o=

 

[Odie]

OK....now I have a couple of complaints about my new Vicmarc VL240 lathe...

You can see in the photo of post #150 above that a larger diameter bowl would have been problematic. If that bowl was a larger diameter, it would definitely interfere with the locking handle for the tool rest.

Here are my three banjos. L to R....Vicmarc, Woodfast, and Robust. The problem here, as explained above, is that locking handle for the Vicmarc banjo sometimes gets in the way. Even Woodfast was wise to that problem, and drilled/tapped another hole for the lock down handle. (I have it covered up by a shortened bolt to keep the threads clean, and only the bolt head is visible here.) The Robust banjo locking handle is reversable....so, that was not a problem with the Sweet 16 lathe banjo.

I may have to drill and tap another hole in the Vicmarc banjo, if this ever becomes a problem.....


=o=

 

[Steve Tiedman]

odie- I'm not seeing it, how does the Vicmarc toolrest clamp bolt/handle get in the way sometimes? What is it in the way of?

That looks like a splined adjustable handle, is that correct? If so, does rotating the handle a couple splines fix the situation?

If that's not an adjustible handle, here's the source for them. They come in plastic handle, cast zinc, steel handles, and stainless steel handles, metric and SAE. I bought a steel handle version for my Oneway 1224, there's a thread out there somewhere about it.

https://www.kippusa.com/en-us/products/METRIC/Adjustable-handle-tension-lever-cam-lever/Adjustable-handles/c/20955?srsltid=AfmBOoomGoMKIhVzaspF3oMmX1MHGL5XLRqg4pCPqfi7AD38mHo6H_gy

 

[Odie]

odie- I'm not seeing it, how does the Vicmarc toolrest clamp bolt/handle get in the way sometimes? What is it in the way of?

That looks like a splined adjustable handle, is that correct? If so, does rotating the handle a couple splines fix the situation?

If that's not an adjustible handle, here's the source for them. They come in plastic handle, cast zinc, steel handles, and stainless steel handles, metric and SAE. I bought a steel handle version for my Oneway 1224, there's a thread out there somewhere about it.

https://www.kippusa.com/en-us/products/METRIC/Adjustable-handle-tension-lever-cam-lever/Adjustable-handles/c/20955?srsltid=AfmBOoomGoMKIhVzaspF3oMmX1MHGL5XLRqg4pCPqfi7AD38mHo6H_gy

Hi Steve......Probably doesn't show it very well in the pics, but if the bowl were larger the handle wouldn't be the problem.....it's the splined screw that is the problem. It's too long. That bowl is already partially shaped, so it doesn't show the problem very well. If it were a platter, or unprocessed bowl blank, it would definitely be a problem.

=o=

 

[Odie]

OK....now I have a couple of complaints about my new Vicmarc VL240 lathe...

I knew this might be a problem before I ever bought the VL240 lathe.......but, I keep tripping the stop bar and shutting down the lathe. Just barely moving it stops the lathe. What I did was put a soft piece of Styrofoam behind the stop bar so that it takes more effort to shut down the lathe.

So far, this simple solution seems to be working out well......but, I need more water under the bridge to know for sure...

=o=

 

[Steve Tiedman]

I've always wondered if that would be the case with that stop bar. That seems like a reasonable fix with the foam. I'm guessing some coil springs or similar must be built into it, and I wonder if they could be replaced with a spring a few pounds heavier in compression rating?

That is a fine looking machine, either way. Once you've grown accustomed to it, everything will be natural. I felt that way after 24 years of Vicmarcs with DC Minarek drives, and then bringing the Oneway 1224 into my shop. A few tweaks to make it my own, and everything is fine now.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

Not only that, but the junction between the headstock and the lower section of the lathe is only exposed by a seam.....no exposed surfaces at all.

Oh, BTW.......I turn plenty of very wet unseasoned (35% or more MC) wood blanks before they are processed through my seasoning process. It's true that I also turn many blanks that are KD as well. Some of my blanks have been air dried for a long time (sometimes for years) prior to my obtaining them, and are partially seasoned. I then take over and finish the seasoning process along with all the other raw unseasoned roughed bowls.

=o=

See here that there is only a seam all the way around, and not conducive to transferring residue between the mating surfaces. I'm pretty confident that the mating surfaces will stay clean and not be much of a problem......but, if not......I'll take care of whatever maintenance is called for when and if that time comes!
View attachment 79550

I see. The Rikon headstock is square, so where it meets the ways the "corners" on the ways are exposed. That's where mine gums up.

 

[Dean Center]

Odie, you must be in heaven with all these new problems to think up solutions for. "It's what you're good at, Butch"--The Sundance Kid, r.i.p.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I knew this might be a problem before I ever bought the VL240 lathe.......but, I keep tripping the stop bar and shutting down the lathe.

Yes, that would be a problem for me. Since there is a pendant enabling shutdown, I’d likely remove the stop bar.

Question - with the pivot HS, will the swing away TS serve a purpose?

 

[Odie]

The real beauty in the swiveling headstock, is you and your entire set-up doesn't have to move to the end of the lathe.

In other words........with a swivel head lathe, the lathe adjusts to your needs, rather than you having to adjust your methods in order to accommodate the lathe's capabilities.

Seems like a no-brainer to me.

 

[Odie]

Question - with the pivot HS, will the swing away TS serve a purpose?

Howdy Doug......

When I inquired about the costs and advantages of the swing-away over bed extension options, I decided to go with the swing-away because the extended bed requires an extension of the base as well to support it. The swing-away appeared to give me all the extra space I need at the end of the lathe for all my accessories.

Good question! I see very little advantage to swinging away the tailstock, so it's likely to stay where it is.

With the swing-away, the extra space it gives me is actually a little less than I had with the long bed Woodfast lathe. Because of this, I do have to make some adjustments with some of my setups that require multiple jigs.


=o=