Air powered sanders

[cwearing]

Pros and cons of air sanders

 

[Donna Banfield]

Pros/Cons of Air Powered Sanders

I have two of them. Both are random orbital air sanders (ROS). They were both purchased from Craft Supplies, I can't recall the name of the first one that I have, but the second one is Grex, and I prefer that one, as the pistol grip handle is rubberized and more comfortable to hold.

The pros are: when properly used, they can give you a surface that is superior to hand sanding and power sanding with a corded drill or angle drill. You can also complete your sanding is less time.

The cons are: you need a pretty large air compressor to run them. If the tank isn't large enough, the sander will stall out as soon as you touch the piece you're trying to sand. I have a Husquvarna. 60 gallon tank. Because it requires a lot of air, they are noisy, and there's always the odor from the machine (which is NOT and oil free compressor). Combine the running compressor with your dust collector and overhead air filter, and the shop is pretty noisy. It would be best if the compressor and dust collector were in another room/building, but right now that's not possible. So, I always wear ear protection.

I also found that there is a learning curve to using them properly. You are not so much 'sanding the surface' as you are 'finessing the surface' with just the outside edge of the sandpaper. If you press too hard, you'll dig the sandpaper into the piece, either stalling the sander, or worse, putting more scratches in your work. I also found that air powered sanders work best with the higher grits. So I use a corded drill, or hand sand with the grain, up to 180 or 220 grit. Then I use the ROS beginning with 220 or 240 up to 600 grit.

I hope this helps.

 

[Steve Worcester]

I You are not so much 'sanding the surface' as you are 'finessing the surface' with just the outside edge of the sandpaper. If you press too hard, you'll dig the sandpaper into the piece, either stalling the sander, or worse, putting more scratches in your work.

I have a Grex also, got it from Bruce Hoover.
The finessing is what I find to be the biggest con. You can't sand the way you would with an electric sander. The paper has to barely kiss the surface. Otherwise it stalls. I would prefer that I get to decide how much pressure I want to exert, not the tool.

 

[john lucas]

I have an inexpensive air drill that I use occasionally. Pro's. It's very light weight and easy to manuever. Cons I hate the dental drill kind of whine and my compressor is way too small. These things eat air. I have a 5 horse 30 gallon compressor and it will run the entire time I use the drill. I have plans for a larger compressor but that's a ways off.

 

[hcbph]

I've used pneumatic tools both personally and professionally for over 5 years. One I've had the most time with is a Souix ROS. You need to maintain them (proper oiling, keep them clean when done), and sufficient air to keep them going without bogging down. Personally I like the air adjustor on the sander, but you can put in an inline valve to do that also. I have one with a vacume dust collector on it and one that doesn't. For me, the dust collector is more of a nuisance than a help. Get an air cleaner instead, it does better than the other.

Hope that helps.

Paul

 

[rbabbittjr]

Also purchased the Grex but will stick with my Souix. The Grex is not reversible.Grex is a nice tool and now have a die grinder on order for carving turnings.

 

[Hugh]

I used to do a LOT of hand sanding on my vessels and bowls. Then one day I thought to try my Makita random orbitial sander. Cut my sanding time down by 3/4. The only problem I have found is that it is a 5 inch disk, which is a little big on the openings and the foot of the bowls. But for those big wide open spaces - I love it. I use it after I have the bowl off the lathe and the bowl is dry. I do it outside most of the time when there is a breeze blowing and I do not have much of a dust problem. Always wear hearing protection or you will not be able to hear when you get older (like me)...(What was that?).

Question I have is: Is a air driven random orbital sander better or easier to use than an electric palm sander?
Hugh the Sledgehammer

 

[sifugreg]

I use 'em all. If you start by using a air sander with a small compressor, you'll curse the thing. With a larger compressor, you'll want to put a moisture collector as close to the working area with as short a hose as possible from it to the tool. Otherwise, you'll start splattering grungy water on your work. Personally it depends on the project. I mostly use my air Die-Grinder with 2" disks. The hook and loop disks can get expensive so I suppliment with home made mandrils I can stick quality sandpaper to via spray adhesive. I also use an electric die-grinder which was way too agressive out of the box so I have it on a motor speed controller. Nice and quick but loses torque at slow speeds. My favorite is a long flexible shaft I keep on my drill press (floor stander located near the head stock set at 1700 RPM). I make round, flat & cylinder shped mandrils and can quickly and easily sand inside and outside of most any shape. After years of turning, I've finally stopped looking for and purchasing odd sanding stuff.
The last word of advice is Don't purchase cheap sandpaper. Order quality european "stearated" sand paper. It doesn't load and you'll use 1/3 the quantity so it's actually cheaper in the long run.

There's my 6¢ worth. Hope it helps.

Greg

 

[pyrocasto]

I dont really use the ROSs much, because as mentioned the size is just too big for most of my bowls. Though on ones I have used it on it's dreamy. Much nicer than the usual hand sanding.

I believe though I'll be looking at the electric drill version so I can go down to a couple inches, and use it on most of my work.

 

[Mark Mandell]

You all who are in a rush to spend lots of bucks running a 3-5 hp motor (your compressor) to do a 1/4 hp job should seriously consider the alternatives. Frin'stance the Metabo 3" RO sander which at $110 is far cheaper to run than the Grex. The air tools are nice, I'm sure, but the Grex needs 8 cfm of air and a 3 hp unit with large storage capacity to operate; you will not operate it off a pancake job or even a 2hp oilless that will top out at 6 cfm.

The electric tool's going be more than a little quieter for both you and those living in the same structure, and the rescent thread on soundproofing a compressor should be reviewed.

 

[MichaelMouse]

I'll second Steve on the "touch" in sanding. That, to me, is the downside of all methods which involve either supporting the sander on the piece or strong-arming with a drill. The slightest tip and you can put an arced gouge in the work, and a bit of neglected grit from a prior sanding doesn't get kicked out, rather digs in, making a nice high-contrast scratch if you're pressing. Then there's the question of heat and paper life, neither of which benefit from pressure.

I take it to the extreme, supporting the sander on the rest as I do any other tool. That way all angles and pressures are mine to choose, just as all angles on the supported gouge. Don't ever get to lathe-off sanding until 400 grit.

Have to say I've never used a pneumatic on wood. Perhaps the "give" in the air cushion would help with the dig-ins. I know that I acquired a pretty good feel for feathering on Bondo and paint back in the days I messed with cars, but random-orbit types weren't out there then. Had the gross circular and the finer orbit/straight-line only.

I timed my sanding last night on a salad bowl, and it was 14 out/20 in. @#^& (!) little hole on the bottom where I didn't leave the button to sand off, but twisted out the wood with a full peeling cut. Just about the same time it takes to cut an approximate 1" thick bowl down to ~1/4" in similar shape. Not sure a pneumatic would do significantly less. Those that use 'em, give some idea of the time through four grits, if you would. I generally use three and a water set under power and one by hand, probably pretty standard.

 

[Vince Welch]

I just upgraded my 24 gallon tank and bought a new 60 gallon compressor for the shop. Why? Because I do like Random Orbital Sanding (ROSing) and I am sanding more using ROS then ever before. However, I find this is a different type of sanding is much different then power sanding as mentioned above. WHat I have found is that ROSing is less likely leave swirel marks in the peice espically with courser grits. Agreeing with Donna's post, I have found this type of sanding using finesse rather then sanding via power sanding or spinning abrasives over an area to be my prefered method. Once I get to the extra fine grits (280 or 320 and above) I use a very light touch to remove previous grit marks both with ROS or power sanding but with ROS the swirel marks are always much less if any. Of course if you have a stuborne area that needs much work especially with the courser grits power sanding might seem quicker. In addition, I use air the blow off/out my work often as I work through the grits and I use to help clean the shop. I am in this for what I beleive to be the long run and to have a 60 gallon tank in the shop is just another added bonus that allows me to to ROS when it is appropriate. Vince

 

[Angelo]

Ros

Yep, Grex from Bruce Hoover here too.

I was not too impressesd with it when I first tried it (tried sanding while the wood was spinning slowly).
Then tried it with the lathe off, WOW! whadda difference. Now I would not sand with out it.


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