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Aluminum finials

Jason Silva

Jason Silva

Joined
Jul 8, 2008
Messages
28
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Location
Virginia Beach
Website
www.etsy.com
Im interested in turning aluminum finials. I'm hoping to get a discussion going on the process, tools used, lathe speed, materials...any info on the subject. Ive seen a few members with turned brass and aluminum finials and would love to give it a try.

Thanks!
 
I turn them exactly the same way I turn wood except you have to take a lighter cut. I taught a glass student to turn aluminum this summer. He used a combination of scraping and bevel rubbing so try each way. It's kind of like wood, if you force the tool you get tearout.
 
What alloy(s) is/are best?

John:

I assume there are likely better alloys of aluminum to turn than others. What's mostly available around here is 6061, but this might not be the best alloy to turn. Do you (or does anybody?) know what kinds of aluminum would work best for turning using woodturning hand tools? I have always toyed with the idea of turning aluminum or brass finials for boxes, and have already acquired some brass to try this over the next month or two. May as well try some aluminum while I'm at it!

Rob
 
6061-T6 is an alloy that turns well as far as metalworking goes. It is a hard alloy, and has a strength that is nearly the same as mild steel. The high temper (T6) makes it turn easily without the problems associated with softer aluminum alloys. For turning on a wood lathe with gouges and srapers, the temper in it might make for slow turning. Not many grades of aluminum are commonly available in rounds. 2011-T3 and 2017-T4 and 2024-T4 are also grades that are supplied in rounds, but may be more difficult to find, and are harder than 6061 T6. 6061-T6 will cut clean without tearout and take a high polish.
 
Hi Jason, a few days ago I turned a handle to put on a cover of a hollow form. It is about the same size as a finiel. It was slow turning but I did it with a small roughing gouge and a skew. I am really pleased with it. I sanded it to 2000 grit. I used a 1/2 inch aluminum rod that I purchased at Home Depot.
I tried carbide cutters but prefered the high speed steel
Good luck,
Norm
 
I've never known what the aluminum I have had is. I pick up scraps from different place, sometimes even returning aluminum objects I've found into something else. Except for some small tearouts that are easy to sand out with 150 or 180 grit I've never had problems.
Copper has given me the most problems. Copper and brass will work harden so what you find may find that what ever piece you get may be hard to turn. Heat them up red hot and quench them in water. This well anneal them and make them cut better. I know, that's exactly backwards from annealing ferrous metals but that's what I was taught and it works.
The last brass ferrul I was turning worked better with a pull cut with the handle really low rather than a push cut. Could not figure out why. So I guess what I'm saying is don't be afraid to play with different cuts. It could be that piece and your techniques and tools may work better with with scraping than cutting or vice/versa.
for the student I was teaching we had to remove a lot of metal. I set up my metal lathe so he could rough them on that. Then I built a woodturning tool rest for the metal lathe and he turned the rounded coves and beads with hand held woodturning tools. Sort of the best of both worlds.
As mentioned above. Be prepared to sand them to a much higher level than the wood if you want a really metallic reflective shine.
 
Get yourself some 2011 Aluminum. It is the "most machinable" of all the aluminum alloys.

Cuts like butter. You can buy it in 1/8 inch diameters and up, and in lengths 1 foot+ from McMaster-Carr.

2011 polishes great but requires a top coat of paint or clear to prevent oxidation.

FYI: Not for use on children's toys or objects subject to frequent handling by toddlers.

Why? Pb (lead) content is what makes it cut nice, but at 0.4% (nominal) Pb composition, it cannot meet the CPSIA standard for children's toys for less than 300ppm in substrates (and soon to be 100 ppm). If the lead content is a concern, wash your hands after handling. Otherwise it presents no real risk for machining since it forms large chips that are easily swept or vacuumed up.
 
Jason I turn 2011 and the 6061 on my 3520b to make the reenforced PVC covered handles. Long rant over on Sandal Woods http://sandal-woodsblog.com/groups. It turns about like ebony..light passes and sharp tools. I used a parting tool to get the sizes close. Also look for a place that sells cut offs. I use Alro steel here in the Orlando area they sell steel and aluminum by the pound. Round 2" is about 2.25/lb. they have it down to 1/2" and then all the flat stuff.
Bill
 
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